sanny Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Hi, I've got a 130XE where all of the consol keys (start, select, option, reset) don't work The other keys work fine, just tested in BASIC typing in every key. How can I repair the contol keys? regards, chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Payne Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 How exactly did you test it in BASIC. I would assume you'd know just by not being how to navigate within they system diag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mathy Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Hello guys Usually, wiggling the "flat cable" connecting the keyboard with the motherboard solves the problem. Try this while wiggling: 10 ? PEEK(53279):GOTO 10 RUN The output should change if you press Select, Start and/or Option and will vary from 0 to 7. (I've done this so often, I know the address by heart) A more permanent solution would be to order a new keyboard sheet (mylar) from Best Electronics. Not cheap ($22) , but it will solve your problems, in case the "flat cable" is damaged enough. Otherwise "wiggling" will be more than enough. There are two types of keyboard mylar, which are NOT interchangeable! Sincerely Mathy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLund1 Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 reseat the whole cable. Also a good wipe down of the Mylar with alcohol might be helpful. Also these keys have a separate leg on the bottom. If this is broken off, the key may not be hitting the Mylar in the right position. Also if your KB has the rubberized domes that make contact with the Mylar, they might be dirty or cracked. Good Luck !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 If not, keep in mind that GTIA reads the CONSOL keys, while PoKey reads the keyboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erichenneke Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 try re-seating the ribbon cable. I just had one act up a couple days ago and re-seating the cable fixed it. Note that the first time i re-seated it there were other keys that stopped working, so I re-seated again and then everything worked. if that doesn't work you can determine which trace on the flex circuit is open, and also pinpoint the exact location (or multiple locations ) using a multimeter, and then carefully bridge those opens using rear-window defrost repair kit. also look for areas of the flex cable that might be shorting against something in the system that it shouldn't be touching, and then protect those areas with some tape. I have had good luck with that on both a 130XE and an 800XL. the other alternative is to buy the replacement "mylar" flex circuit from best electronics for $25. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 When in doubt, just run the built-in keyboard test. It may not be the best, but it does do a good job of letting you know if the console keys work. No need to be writing test programs for that, unless you just feel like it. - Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanner Posted September 8, 2016 Share Posted September 8, 2016 (edited) Hold down Start and Option to see if it will go into cassette loading mode,or turn on the system with no keys held and test with the keyboard test,it should go into test mode..Make sure you don't have anything connected to it first like cassette or disk drive.I have the same problem with my 800XL some of the keys don't work like O,K,G. Edited September 8, 2016 by Spanner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanny Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 (edited) I re-seated the ribbon cable. Still no good For people asking questions about how I tested it: I either just turned it on with "Option" pressed, but didn't arrive at the self test. Or I inserted a game cart and pressed "Start" -> no game start.... Edited September 9, 2016 by sanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanny Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 Usually, wiggling the "flat cable" connecting the keyboard with the motherboard solves the problem. Try this while wiggling: 10 ? PEEK(53279):GOTO 10 RUN The output should change if you press Select, Start and/or Option and will vary from 0 to 7. Hmm, tried this. I'm always getting "7", regardless what key I press. Which pins of the "flat cable" are connected to the consol keys? Or, better asked, which pins do I need to check for bypass when I press a consol key? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russg Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 (edited) Hmm, tried this. I'm always getting "7", regardless what key I press. Which pins of the "flat cable" are connected to the consol keys? Or, better asked, which pins do I need to check for bypass when I press a consol key? Did you try switching out the GTIA with a known good one? Or, if you have another A8, try that GTIA in a different A8. Edited September 11, 2016 by russg 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanny Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 Did you try switching out the GTIA with a known good one? Or, if you have another A8, try that GTIA in a different A8. No, I don't have a spare GTIA or computer. In fact, I have, but they're PAL while the problem machine is NTSC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanny Posted September 12, 2016 Author Share Posted September 12, 2016 I've cleaned the ribbon cable connector on the keyboard with alcohol -- still no change. I "beeped" it with a multi-meter: If I'm correct a pressed "Option" key should short lines 3 and 23 of the cable connector. This didn't happen. Next step: open the keyboard an look inside... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russg Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 (edited) No, I don't have a spare GTIA or computer. In fact, I have, but they're PAL while the problem machine is NTSC. sanny, I remember trying to make a PAL compatible NTSC by swapping PAL Antic and GTIA chips into NTSC machine. I don't remember the results, but I suspect the results were BAD. I can't find those PAL chips anywhere amoungst my volumous A8 stuff, which makes me believe the PAL chips are gone. I don't remember exactly, but it seems I believe I got a black and white display. But the chips must have failed, as I can't find them anywhere. I swapped NTSC chips for PAL ones with a guy in England, if I remember. So, bottom line. I was thinking put a PAL GTIA in your NTSC, but now I don't recommend that. You have a European 800XL NTSC, which maybe not, as Europe doesn't have any NTSC 120 volt without some special power converter. So, probably don't. A little more. The NTSC GTIA is a 14805. The PAL GTIA is a 14889. Look, see what your GTIA is in the bad NTSC. Edited September 13, 2016 by russg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultrasteve Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Just picked up a 130XE that exhibits the same problem - none of the function keys work Swapped it out with a brand new old stock XEGS keyboard and that worked fine. Looks like I'm in for a new mylar but shipping from Best to the UK is so expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormtrooper of Death Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 I have a 130XE where only the RESET key doesnt work. But that bothers me a lot, because i have to use the to power off/on the machine and i read that this is not good for the power supply in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Remember you can always change the resistors going to those keys... the mylar is more than likely just more resistive not broken.. just change the corresponding resistors on the Atari itself... I will work for an eternity after that.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugarland Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 (edited) I had to re-paint the mylar with conductive paint on my heavily used XE. That completely fixed all the keys. The traces get worn over time with use and will eventually fail. Look at the mylar and you may see lots of traces that look as though the conductive stuff has worn off. Re-paint them all, especially in your case follow the traces where the function keys go and make sure they're all 100%. edit: this includes the round circle contact points under each key. Doesn't hurt to repaint them. If you accidentally connect two lines... I used a razor blade to cut the line several times in/near the same spot where there should be no cross connect (some lines are very close and it is difficult). Edited January 21, 2017 by Sugarland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultrasteve Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Remember you can always change the resistors going to those keys... the mylar is more than likely just more resistive not broken.. just change the corresponding resistors on the Atari itself... I will work for an eternity after that.... I saw you mention that in another thread - it's a shame no online resource exists to show exactly which resistors to change, and what value to replace them with, especially for us novices! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlorianD Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 my 130XE had similar problems, reseating the connector only helped a short while. In the end i disconnected the keyboard fromthe motherboard, and diligently cleaned the connector. It looked dark grey in the beginning, but after the cleaning it was bright silver again. I used cleaning fluid (that stuff that removes corrosion) for electronics, and completely washed away the leftovers with alcohol afterwards. since then everything stayed OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electronizer Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Here's a link to an extremely helpful post by _The Doctor__ that details exactly how to fix the resistor problem. There's also a way to fix it by replacing the resistors with transistors. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/190500-130-xe-keyboard-membrains/?fromsearch=1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultrasteve Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Here's a link to an extremely helpful post by _The Doctor__ that details exactly how to fix the resistor problem. There's also a way to fix it by replacing the resistors with transistors. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/190500-130-xe-keyboard-membrains/?fromsearch=1 Thanks for the heads up - I've just posted there to ask if anyone could make a photo available that shows the fix in-situ to make it clearer for the less techy (me included) among us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) My memory was already beginning to fade when I posted that 5 years ago!... I am very happy to see it dug up.... I have 4 to 5 more XE's acquired in need of the fix... It's time to perform the mods on some thrift store XE's again.... hopefully It will come back to me fully, if successful I might even remember to post a photo or two... Post your XE keyboard mod photos! Mylars are worth it when they are around $10.00 but not so much when it's $25.00 plus shipping. If I made a mistake it'll be my big chance to correct it Edited January 27, 2017 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultrasteve Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 When I get some time to have a proper look at the keyboards I'll certainly post some pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+kheller2 Posted January 9, 2021 Share Posted January 9, 2021 On 1/23/2017 at 8:34 AM, ultrasteve said: I saw you mention that in another thread - it's a shame no online resource exists to show exactly which resistors to change, and what value to replace them with, especially for us novices! Well, today I found this in the mail with some other goodies I haven't seen archived yet. I will post a scan later, but here is a quick pic for now. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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