charliecron Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 It's just glue? Can't you just heat it up with a heat gun. They are pretty cheap.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookt Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Back in the day I adjusted mine using a stereo music cassette. Boot the machine, type POKE 54018,52 to turn on the tape motor and hit play. The music will play through the TV speaker. I would then adjust the screw until the music was clearest. I never drilled holes or removed the label, just very carefully removed the cassette door and replaced it afterward. One advantage of the relatively slow data rate on SIO tape operations on the Atari is that head alignment isn't so critical as it was on for example some of the turbo loaders the C64 had. I remember my friend having nightmares with alignment on a C2N. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilsaluki Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 It's just glue? Can't you just heat it up with a heat gun. They are pretty cheap.. Have you personally removed the metal label successfully without damaging it? If you have, I may give it a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilsaluki Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Back in the day I adjusted mine using a stereo music cassette. Boot the machine, type POKE 54018,52 to turn on the tape motor and hit play. The music will play through the TV speaker. I would then adjust the screw until the music was clearest. I never drilled holes or removed the label, just very carefully removed the cassette door and replaced it afterward. One advantage of the relatively slow data rate on SIO tape operations on the Atari is that head alignment isn't so critical as it was on for example some of the turbo loaders the C64 had. I remember my friend having nightmares with alignment on a C2N. How does one remove the cassette door? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliecron Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Have you personally removed the metal label successfully without damaging it? If you have, I may give it a shot. No, sorry if I gave that impression. I was just thinking out loud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 (edited) I still use all media devices from the 1010 to SD cards. I don't mind the load times, I just start it and go do something else for 20 minutes. My success rate with loading a tape has been 50/50 since I really started using them again recently a lot (I was sent several tapes from a friend in the UK). But all these old tapes still do successfully load, even if it takes twice sometimes. I will try the adjustment screw to get a more reliable load, especially since I am just about to do a home-made Turbo 2000/Rambit turbo upgrade for it. I'm also going to install an audio input to use other devices like CD and MP3's and even older obsolete recording media too (it works in a similar fashion to loading tape images from AspeQT or APE). Also a few other bells and whistles like a real power switch (I have one of the 1010 that the LED always stays on when plugged in, and it bugs me) and some reading/writing and turbo mode LED's. But I'm a big fan of all sorts of vintage audio/video/data playing and recording devices. It's all nostalgic fun to me. And I love to upgrade them. Edited September 16, 2016 by Gunstar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookt Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 How does one remove the cassette door? IIRC (and it has been a while) you need to squeeze at each side where the legs of the hinge on the door disappear into the main unit. Alternatively you can work one side at a time, pulling the door towards the other side. Basically there is a stop on each hinge which prevents the door opening too far and you need to move that past the side of the body. I *think* there is an opening spring attached at the back of the door which you need to unhook once the door is free. Obviously reassembly is a reversal. Hook up the spring, put in one leg of the hinge and then squeeze/apply pressure to the other to clip it back into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marsupilami Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 The only tape i can get to work is Atari "Chess". All other games (Frogger, European Countries, Ghostbusters): "load error" I use an Atari PAL 600 XL with 1064. Hi, Put your tape in your 1010. Press fast forward until the end of the tape. Now press Rewind and wait... Then try to load your tape. This will give the tape a better "standardized" alignement and the same "resistance" so If the 1010 motor / belt are tired, this will help a bit. I may not work but sometimes it helps 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilsaluki Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Hi, Put your tape in your 1010. Press fast forward until the end of the tape. Now press Rewind and wait... Then try to load your tape. This will give the tape a better "standardized" alignement and the same "resistance" so If the 1010 motor / belt are tired, this will help a bit. I may not work but sometimes it helps [Confusion ensues. "Now press Rewind and wait...". Wait for what? Are you just saying, fast forward the tape to its end' then rewind it completely? Pls clarify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marsupilami Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Yes exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanner Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 (edited) Oh and not all tapes can be loaded with Option and Start,I have a tape here that need to be load typing "CLOAD".Always read the inlay how to load the Program/Game.One program that uses "CLOAD" is "AN INVITATION TO PROGRAMMING" Clever,anyone know who's voice is used on the tape..? Edited September 17, 2016 by Spanner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister-VCS Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 Hi, Put your tape in your 1010. Press fast forward until the end of the tape. Now press Rewind and wait... Then try to load your tape. This will give the tape a better "standardized" alignement and the same "resistance" so If the 1010 motor / belt are tired, this will help a bit. I may not work but sometimes it helps Thank you - helped with Frogger but not wih Ghostbusters- yet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilsaluki Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 I have a Mastertronics tape of Henry's House. It would not load. I then took of the slack by turning the take up wheel (spocket) whilst holding the supply wheel. There was some slack in the tape. It then loaded just fine. Finicky tapes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilsaluki Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Wow. This thread has gotten me totally back into cassettes. Cassettes that would not load a year ago, now that I tighten the slack, now load. I love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilsaluki Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Well, now I have done it. Played with the 1010 so much the PLAY button broke off, deteriorating plastic. Does anyone know where I can buy the 1010 replacement Buttons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 (edited) It's one of the few peripherals that Best Electronics does not have parts for.I am of course using the Best Catalog, the web site only has a fraction of what all they carry. they don't have the 1010 listed on the site, but it is in the catalog. There's a chance it's sold out, but maybe not. Your best best is to find another used one for cheap and use one of them as a parts 1010. That's what I did a few years ago when one of my buttons broke. If you attempt to fix it, I don't recommend trying to just glue it even with something like Super glue, parts like that that receive pressure on pressure points won't hold. I would recommend either a product like J.B. Weld (which would need to encase the area of the break) after the initial "glue fix" cures, or that newer tech that uses special polymers and the special UV "light pen" that cures it. Sorry I forget the name of the product.There's an "as seen on TV" version, but I'm sure name brand ones exist too. Edited September 24, 2016 by Gunstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunstar Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 It's one of the few peripherals that Best Electronics does not have parts for.I am of course using the Best Catalog, the web site only has a fraction of what all they carry. they don't have the 1010 listed on the site, but it is in the catalog. There's a chance it's sold out, but maybe not. Your best best is to find another used one for cheap and use one of them as a parts 1010. That's what I did a few years ago when one of my buttons broke. If you attempt to fix it, I don't recommend trying to just glue it even with something like Super glue, parts like that that receive pressure on pressure points won't hold. I would recommend either a product like J.B. Weld (which would need to encase the area of the break) after the initial "glue fix" cures, or that newer tech that uses special polymers and the special UV "light pen" that cures it. Sorry I forget the name of the product.There's an "as seen on TV" version, but I'm sure name brand ones exist too. A correction. Best Electronics does have replacement 1010 buttons in their catalog! I was looking in the wrong place. There are two different types of 1010 though, the Chelco version and the Sanyo version. The last two buttons to the right on both are the PAUSE and Stop/Eject buttons, but on the Chelco version the Pause button is last, on the Sanyo version the Stop/Eject is the last button. The buttons are designed different so you have to make sure you order the button(s) for your version of the 1010. The Chelco buttons are part number CB102303. The Sanyo buttons are part number CB102302. List price is $3.50 for a replacement button, but that price may be different now. Call Best Electronics after 1PM PST 408-243-6950. Or contact them through the website: http://www.best-electronics-ca.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spookt Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 Well, now I have done it. Played with the 1010 so much the PLAY button broke off, deteriorating plastic. Does anyone know where I can buy the 1010 replacement Buttons? They used to break even when the units were new. The buttons are all the same and are fixed to a common metal axle inside the 1010. If you can live without the pause key you can open up the unit, remove the broken key and slide the others along the axle. You can then either put the broken key back on the end or live with the gap. IIRC Atari User in the UK published this fix in response to the issue back in the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister-VCS Posted June 9, 2019 Author Share Posted June 9, 2019 Thank you - helped with Frogger but not wih Ghostbusters- yet update: today I use a XC12 and everything works fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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