3D printed 2600 cart shell

[norm8332]

I haven't been on here in ages, but I'm getting back into 2600 stuff.. I'd thought I share a STL file for a 2600 cart shell that I made up, for those of you that have access to a 3D printer. Its here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1790785 All the others I have found had problems so I made this one and it's an easy print. It's not meant to be a copy of the original, because that would be hard to make on a FDM 3D printer, but it has the same dimensions, takes original ROMs or pixelspast/atariage boards. Use it for your new burns or maybe even rescue some of that pile of Pac-Man ROMs.

 

Norm

Edited September 28, 2016 by norm8332

[InsertCoin25]

That is awesome norm8332!! Have you tried any different color cart shells?

[toiletunes]

What is the cost to make a shell?

[norm8332]

Thanks,

 

I just used white because that's what was loaded at the time, but any color could be used. The cost is most likely less than $1.00 including electricity because the ABS was purchased at $10 per Kg roll and it takes very little plastic. It takes about an hour to print one and the printer draws about 180 watts. The labels were laser printed on paper and clear coated before they were applied with silicone based spray glue.

Edited October 16, 2016 by norm8332

[InsertCoin25]

How many cart shells, on average, could you get out of one roll of ABS?

[norm8332]

I weighed one and it's about 38g, so it looks like around 26 per 1000g roll of plastic.

[+pboland]

I haven't been on here in ages, but I'm getting back into 2600 stuff.. I'd thought I share a STL file for a 2600 cart shell that I made up, for those of you that have access to a 3D printer. Its here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1790785 All the others I have found had problems so I made this one and it's an easy print. It's not meant to be a copy of the original, because that would be hard to make on a FDM 3D printer, but it has the same dimensions, takes original ROMs or pixelspast/atariage boards. Use it for your new burns or maybe even rescue some of that pile of Pac-Man ROMs.

 

Norm

That's really cool!

 

You could make the print even simpler by removing the screws all together. Then you could just glue the case together. I know many people would have a problem with that idea just because they want the ability to take it back apart. If you think about, it isn't really necessary to open at the cart back up however. Just a thought.

[InsertCoin25]

I weighed one and it's about 38g, so it looks like around 26 per 1000g roll of plastic.

Sweet!! I really need to invest in a 3d printer. Do you have any suggestions, as I am new to the whole 3D printer scene. Looking for a budget printer that can also output decent results.

[norm8332]

That's really cool!

 

You could make the print even simpler by removing the screws all together. Then you could just glue the case together. I know many people would have a problem with that idea just because they want the ability to take it back apart. If you think about, it isn't really necessary to open at the cart back up however. Just a thought.

 

 

Yeah, I used socketed eproms (it also fits) so in case I'm still around for the "bit rot" 20 or so years down the road it can be re-burned or replaced.

 

Sweet!! I really need to invest in a 3d printer. Do you have any suggestions, as I am new to the whole 3D printer scene. Looking for a budget printer that can also output decent results.

 

 

As far as 3d printers are concerned, I really cannot make a recommendation because unfortunately the tech is still not mature enough to just hook up one and print. They all require fine tuning that requires experience to get good prints. Also they are not very reliable and even the best consumer models need frequent servicing and adjustment. That's why they have an over 50% return rate when sold out of brick and mortar stores. People think they can just plug one in and go...not yet but hopefully soon.

 

That being said, I have two home-built MendelMax 1.5 printers, and a home-built Prusa I3. I have used Makerbots 5th Gens and I hate them..They are locked down and that makes them hard for the user to improve them. All of my printers print better and much faster because I constantly upgrade them.

 

Norm

Edited October 17, 2016 by norm8332

[cjameslv]

Cool, thanks. I'll print one out tonight and give it a test.

[cjameslv]

 

 

....They are locked down and that makes them hard for the user to improve them. All of my printers print better and much faster because I constantly upgrade them.

 

Norm

This is false. I have had my makerbot 2x's for a couple years now and they haven been upgraded alot! Very easy to do as well. Most parts i buy as i want metal upgrades not printed plastic. They are great, hold calibration over many prints and once you have upgraded to sailfish, they are simply a joy to use.

[norm8332]

This is false. I have had my makerbot 2x's for a couple years now and they haven been upgraded alot! Very easy to do as well. Most parts i buy as i want metal upgrades not printed plastic. They are great, hold calibration over many prints and once you have upgraded to sailfish, they are simply a joy to use.

I really meant the Fifth Gens..I should have been more clear. Post edited.

[+SvOlli]

I assembled my own 3D printer (an Anet A8) last weekend. After a small test print, this was the first real job I started. Put in a Melody board and it works fine in both a light sixer and a jr. It also looks cool without a sticker, because I was using glow-in-the-dark filament.

Thanks!

[MayDay]

For those interested in home 3D printers- I recently bought the cheapest one I could find, an XYZ Jr. for $250. It comes pretty much plug and play, though there is a slight learning curve too. It does not have a heated bed, but double sided tape works very well for me. The exception is prints like this where there is a large flat side. Still, I was able to get a couple printed that worked, although they do have a bit of warpage. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks to Norm. I really like this design with the four screws instead of one through the label.

[norm8332]

For those interested in home 3D printers- I recently bought the cheapest one I could find, an XYZ Jr. for $250. It comes pretty much plug and play, though there is a slight learning curve too. It does not have a heated bed, but double sided tape works very well for me. The exception is prints like this where there is a large flat side. Still, I was able to get a couple printed that worked, although they do have a bit of warpage. Anyway, just wanted to say thanks to Norm. I really like this design with the four screws instead of one through the label.

Thanks. I have made the screw-hole adjustment you requested by adding .5mm gap to the top studs. It has been updated on Thingiverse. Please let me know if this works if you print any more. There is still room for improvement like interlocking edges that could be added to the model but I was really trying to keep it simple because of the widely varying quality of the 3d printers out there. Not everyone has their printer perfectly calibrated so more complicated or small features can become a problem.

 

Norm

Edited March 29, 2017 by norm8332