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Ah finally I got myself a mini Speedy


Marius

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So, maybe somebody can tell me what version of Speedy I have.

Check out page 2. Your board is a one-for-all version, you can retrofit the missing parts to turn it into a full TDS-version.

 

You can find more photos of the TDS-version on Mega-Hz's webpage I linked to in post 21 in this thread.

 

re-atari

Speedy 1050 Versions.pdf

Edited by re-atari
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Thanks for the information, Re-Atari. But the missing parts ? Are that circuitboard parts, or eproms ? And where could I buy / get these missing parts ?

 

So, my Speedy board could be transformed into this one ?

 

DSCF0092.JPG

 

Thats a lot of missing chips and resistors on my board.

Edited by Stormtrooper of Death
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Thanks for the information, Re-Atari. But the missing parts ? Are that circuitboard parts, or eproms ? And where could I buy / get these missing parts ?

 

Thats a lot of missing chips and resistors on my board.

Yes, a few TTL's, resistors and caps, as well as a transistor, diode and buzzer. Any well-assorted electronics shop should carry them.

 

Check these photos:

 

post-9683-0-24721600-1477045385_thumb.jpg

 

post-9683-0-74959200-1477045396_thumb.jpg

 

post-9683-0-44120800-1477045410_thumb.jpg

 

Mega-Hz has the PCB layout for a trackdisplay on his website. The 74LS273 LED display drivers might be difficult to find, though. The 2 black IC's near the 20pin connector are actually resistor packs containing 7 (or 8, I'm not sure) 270R resistors. On the photo you submitted they are replaced with individual resistors.

 

I use to have the Speedy 1050 schematic, but lost it when a drive in my NAS broke down (thank you Seagate...)

 

You can find detailed info at:

http://www.mia-net.org/speedy.html

 

 

re-atari

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I cant solder electronics. So, upgrading my all-for-one speedy is impossible for me to do. Anyhow, thanks again for all the information.

Don't worry, your Speedy is fully functional as it is. The additions are purely cosmetic, for the gadget freaks amongst us ;-)

 

I remember how back in the 80's everybody gazed at the trackdisplays on my 2 1050's. A few years back I thought about replacing the LED displays on the one remaining 1050 with nixie tubes to give it an extra touch of retro feeling, but never got around to actually building it.

 

re-atari

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I removed my speedy to look a bit more and to use my fingers to insert the IC chips a bit better. Underneat my Speedy are no cables connected to the 1050 circuitboard. Yesterday night, i was also a bit difficult to put the speedy back into the 1050. LAck of good light made it a rather difficult. anyhow i succeeded. My speedy has some problems. Most of the times it just doesnt read disks. Only the original speedy 5.25 disc. All others i copied,formated etc are not read. But after a while (30 mins/1 hour or so), the mad thing starts to read other discs too. Sometimes at speedy speed, sometimes still at low speed.

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I removed my speedy to look a bit more and to use my fingers to insert the IC chips a bit better. Underneat my Speedy are no cables connected to the 1050 circuitboard. Yesterday night, i was also a bit difficult to put the speedy back into the 1050. LAck of good light made it a rather difficult. anyhow i succeeded. My speedy has some problems. Most of the times it just doesnt read disks. Only the original speedy 5.25 disc. All others i copied,formated etc are not read. But after a while (30 mins/1 hour or so), the mad thing starts to read other discs too. Sometimes at speedy speed, sometimes still at low speed.

 

That sounds like bad contact (kontaktproblemen) between the 28p connector or an IC and their sockets. After a while components get warmed up and expand just so much to make the contact problem go away. Be aware that the 6507 socket that takes the 28p connector doesn't respond well to many removal and inserts. I always used a 28p precision socket on the 28p connector on the diskspeeders in my 1050's. They sat a bit higher above the 1050 PCB and the 5 socketed IC's like that, but there was just enough room below the drive mechanism.

 

Did you already experience the read problems before you removed and inserted the Speedy? And, as you have the drive open, it can't hurt to clean the RW head with alcohol. If only to rule out that as a possible cause.

 

re-atari

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What kind of alcohol should I use ? I looked for some in het Kruidvat in my town, and they have several small botles with purified alcohol. I read that not all alchol is good, because they contain also other things that are bad for the RW head.

 

Today, i removed the speedy and inserted in another 1050. And voilas ! Everything works 100% now. So, it was not the speedy, but the 1050 drive that has some problems. I also bought another mini speedy from a member of ABBUC. that mini speedy will arrive next week if everything works out.

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There is some info missing still: The Mini Speedy was available in 3 versions. Speedy 'S' = High Speed Sector Copy in ROM, 'D' = BiboDOS in ROM, "DS" = BiboDOS and HSS Copier in ROM. So if it is a "DS" as on the pic above a switch helps to choose between DOS and HSS Copier.

 

Among my 1050s there was a Speedy equipped one that didn't boot to either Bibo-Dos or HSS-Copy, but responds with "BOOT ERROR" messages when trying to boot with an open lever, I have never checked whether this is a bug or a feature, though. TBH, I consider HSS-Copy to be pretty useless nowadays, as it only works with a single disk drive. Bibo-DOS is out-of-date, too, but when working with disk drives, there are no serious drawbacks in comparison with more modern ones such as Sparta-DOS or MyDOS.

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