Vectrex cap kit question from noob

[Jinxter75]

OK, this may be a stupid question ie electronics 101, but I have something that's really stumping me. I purchased a cap kit and was removing c521 from the power board and just for the heck of it I tested continuity with my multi-meter across the + and - and received a beep. I check a couple others and they don't do that. I'm wondering if a cap is removed, then the + and - shouldn't be connected correct? Does this mean I have a short somewhere else on the board? I check in the area for possible wayward solder that may have crossed a couple traces but i don't see anything. I have added a photo of the pads where I put each end of my multi-meter to test continuity.

 

Thanks for your help. Want to get this thing back to its former glory!

[Datzilla]

Hey Jinxter75, where did you get the cap kit from and what was the price? Think this is something I want to do with my"high mileage" unit.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

I ordered mine from Console5. Pretty much a regular there these days! LOL

 

https://console5.com/store/vectrex-cap-kit.html

[+iesposta]

Wouldn't those traces be connected through other parts on the other side like resistors and other things?

Maybe that's why a continuity test beeps?

[+-^CrossBow^-]

ieposta is correct on this.

 

When you do a cap replacement on a vectrex it is very important to apply solder to the pads on both sides of the board on each connection! This is because many of the so called 'vias' aren't vias at all but just holes through the PCB. As a result only applying the solder to one side doesn't always provide the needed connection on the other. But there is quite a bit of cross connection throughout.

[Jinxter75]

OK, thanks for the responses! I'm going to carry on replacing the caps this weekend. And yes, I bought the kit from console5.com. actually I bought a debuzz kit and another that I can't quite remember right now. If you go to there site you'll see all the better kits they have.

[CatPix]

ieposta is correct on this.

 

When you do a cap replacement on a vectrex it is very important to apply solder to the pads on both sides of the board on each connection! This is because many of the so called 'vias' aren't vias at all but just holes through the PCB. As a result only applying the solder to one side doesn't always provide the needed connection on the other. But there is quite a bit of cross connection throughout.

Wow, that's a VERY useful information here. I looked on my Vectrex because I sometime need to bap it for the screen to come alive. I had checked under the board, but not each side. That's probably where my power trouble is located. Thanks.

Edited October 21, 2016 by CatPix

[+-^CrossBow^-]

OK, thanks for the responses! I'm going to carry on replacing the caps this weekend. And yes, I bought the kit from console5.com. actually I bought a debuzz kit and another that I can't quite remember right now. If you go to there site you'll see all the better kits they have.

 

I also bought and installed the debuzz kit on my vectrex. Keep in mind that you also need to use a good piece of Coax cabling to redo the audio connection cable. If not you will still get the buzzing regardless. In fact even with all of that I still have noticeable buzz on my vectrex, but the buzzing is nearly completely gone once the game starts up and even when not, it is much less pronounced than it used to be.

[CatPix]

I simply pushed the audio cable away from the CRT and it already reduced the amount of buzzing. It's really a poor idea to wire the sound output between the CRT tube and putting the loudpseaker next to the power transformer.

[MrRetroGamer]

Will the cap kit fix a Vectrex that has the white dot/no display issue or is something else needed?