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New development: GTIA in CPLD

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Can you please explain what is the missing pixel shift?

Perhaps a picture will help me understand. :-D

 

Gr.10 lines have a one colour clock delay, shifting the pixels a half width in this mode to the right.

This is used as a virtual resolution increase in "JAG", as the converter is able to distribute colour values to the "more precise" positions.

 

Inspect the second screen shot you've made and compare the 4th vertical line of the test image with the picture of my original post.

(Of course you could do also another session with an unmodified GTIA and detect the differences.)

Images with details suffer more than more plain ones, e.g. the "Ghost Goblins" title is with "Sophia" not really readable any more as well as the image itself suffers quite a lot from the pixel position mismatch.

 

The enhancement with its crisp video output is really desirable, but the missing pixel shift is a show stopper for me.

Edited by Irgendwer
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Hello guys

 

The name of the soccer coach is Leo Beenhakker. He's Dutch.

 

Sincerely

 

Mathy (not a soccer fan, but my Dad is, so I do recognize some of those bozo's)

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Finally finished adding SOPHIA to my already modded 5200. My current 4 port model now has composite, s-video and RGB. There are required pulled pins for the composite/s-video board, but they do not affect the SOPHIA mod. I thought I would post some pics of the different video quality (and colors) from the various video feeds. I am pushing them through a Sony PVM. Pay particular attention to the bricks and the cave outlines as those are static images (more broken-up artifacts with composite than s-video). My PVM tends to translate composite fairly well, so there isn't as much of a difference between S-video and composite as one might think, but it does get extremely noticeable on consumer TVs.

 

Composite

5200 Composite

 

S-Video

5200 S Video

SOPHIA RGB (Updated to FW 1.3)

5200 SOPHIA RGB

 

Edited by TiktaaLink
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No need to solder anything. You just need to crimp a connector onto the cable that came with your USB Blaster (see image below for proper orientation).

 

post-29824-0-06337800-1489242301.jpg

 

 

Sophia uses a Micro-Match connector, so here is the mating part suitable for crimping onto the ribbon cable...

8-215083-0_sml.jpg

Digi-Key P/N: A99461CT-ND

TE Connectivity P/N: 8-215083-0

 

- Michael

 

Woot! After several delays, I finally have my Sophia board installed and working with my homemade DB9 cable connected to a Commodore 1084S. Thanks to ivop and Simius for providing the pinout info.

 

Now I'm ready to reprogram the board to get the correct NTSC palette. I have my USB Blaster and micro-match connector in hand, however I'm not sure how to crimp this like shown above. There seems to be a rather expensive tool available, though an online article says I can do it in a vice. I'm afraid to screw it up, given that the connector cost me $10.

 

Any advice?

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Woot! After several delays, I finally have my Sophia board installed and working with my homemade DB9 cable connected to a Commodore 1084S. Thanks to ivop and Simius for providing the pinout info.

 

Now I'm ready to reprogram the board to get the correct NTSC palette. I have my USB Blaster and micro-match connector in hand, however I'm not sure how to crimp this like shown above. There seems to be a rather expensive tool available, though an online article says I can do it in a vice. I'm afraid to screw it up, given that the connector cost me $10.

 

Any advice?

 

I just used a vice with soft jaws (aluminum or copper angle works well for this). Just make sure that you don't clamp over the area with the small pin sticking out. But how ever you do it, it's best to start the crimp process with just your bare hands, and only when everything looks to be lined up properly finish off with the vice.

 

- Michael

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Hello,

 

Great job !

 

Is it possible to order one for my 4 ports 5200 ?

 

Is it the right thread for that ?

 

Thank you

 

PM sent

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Installed a Rev B in my 4 port NTSC 5200 then flashed to v 1.3.

 

Note had to remove both jumpers to get it working. With jumper 1 on there was a scrambled still picture. Remove it and graphics were good but everything seemed to be green in cold. Remove jumper 2 and full color picture.

 

Simple to install and what a beautiful picture.

 

I'm going to do power mod next to get rid of the switch box. Thinking of removing the rf cable and putting scarf cable in its place.

 

I'm thinking of splicing sound from the 5200 motherboard into the scart cable. What are people doing to get sound out of the 5200?

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It may seem redundant, but I always like to know what is POSSIBLE. :) Anyone have both a SOPHIA AND one of BRYAN's UAV boards? They install in separate locations, so is it possible to have BOTH installed if you wish to move your system between monitors where one's best is S-Video and the other has RGB?

Edited by seastalker

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I have both. But both not installed yet. :( You can have both, because output jacks are different. And switch inputs in TV if you have both standards inputs in tv/monitor. You can even check third input via RF signal. But nowadays TVs do not have S-video inputs so only Composite Video is possible.

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Thanks for the valuable info on a board being able to output both at the same time. I should have also specified in my question - is there room on the board for plug in models or would the hardware have an overlap of shared space preventing this? A solution likely would be to get the UAV that can be installed anywhere inside but still good to know. Thanks!

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Surprisingly easy to desolder the GTIA. Nice big holes, only the ground pin held on.

 

This look right ?

Installed in my XEGS don't want to turn it on without a second opinion. (I'm aware of the wonky cap I don't have axial caps)

RmH7Ls6.jpg

Edited by the_crayon_king

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Bit late to this game -- is it posisble to order one?

It's possible. I'll let you know, when is available.

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I put a sophia into an Atari 800 and it works great. Sophia must be set into another area, because of lack of space at the CPU-Board.

 

A DIN 13 with french Atari 7800 Pinout was used for RGB-Output on A/V Out place of the Atari.

 

S-Video and Video is still possible with a special cable.

 

More Info on my blog site

 

a800_sophia-3.jpg

 

a800_sophia-4.jpg

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Anyone get this working with core v 1.2 or 1.3 for PAL Component Output?

 

I can get it to work as NTSC (although in first game screen of Draconus it looks too green, missing browns and yellows, palette still not quite right), but in PAL all I see is an all green screen.

 

- Michael

Edited by mytekcontrols

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Ok so I have component:

yrFs0HU.jpg

 

 

3Qu9U8E.jpg

 

Ignore the mess ;)

Ok so last few questions before I button this back up.

 

Would putting the jumpers on a toggle switch hurt anything ? Say if I had a toggle to flip between RGB and component on the fly.

 

I have no clue if I am supposed to do something with blanking.

 

I have video out at this point. Looks awesome over component.

Another note is having the interlaced jumper closed has a noticeable jitter on my TV (over component) so I made it open.

 

 

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Blanking is needed only for SCART input. When component mode is set, can be left unconnected.

 

@Mytekcontrols

Some TV sets don't tolerate the component signal with different lenght of even/odd fields. On the PAL system more often than NTSC.

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@Mytekcontrols

Some TV sets don't tolerate the component signal with different lenght of even/odd fields. On the PAL system more often than NTSC.

 

It just seemed odd to me that what was working perfectly in NTSC thru the component inputs, would render as a solid green screen in PAL. This same MultiSync monitor works in both NTSC and PAL via the CVSB and S-Video inputs, so I had assumed that the component inputs would be the same (apparently not). I have one more monitor that also worked in NTSC 'component' mode with Sophia, so I'll have to try that one in PAL and see what happens. Anyway this even/odd timing thing is really getting to be a problem, and unfortunately makes the prospect of Sophia actually working for someone's setup like picking the winning Lotto numbers (well maybe not quite that bad :-D ). Perhaps RGB will have a better chance of working across the two different standards (NTSC/PAL) :?

 

So how's the DVI solution looking? Any foreseeable even/odd timing problems associated with that?

 

- Michael

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So how's the DVI solution looking? Any foreseeable even/odd timing problems associated with that?

 

- Michael

 

DVI version hasn't problem with unequality of the even/odd fields because is working in progresive mode only. But isn't SMPTE standard compliant therefore don't works with most HDTVs. But works with most modern PC monitors equipped with DVI/HDMI inputs. So far it was tested in 1536x1024x60Hz resolution on 10 pcs of LG, Dell and HP monitors with result 9/10.

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DVI version hasn't problem with unequality of the even/odd fields because is working in progresive mode only. But isn't SMPTE standard compliant therefore don't works with most HDTVs. But works with most modern PC monitors equipped with DVI/HDMI inputs. So far it was tested in 1536x1024x60Hz resolution on 10 pcs of LG, Dell and HP monitors with result 9/10.

 

That would work just fine for me since I have a multitude of computer monitors with DVI :)

 

- Michael

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That would work just fine for me since I have a multitude of computer monitors with DVI :)

 

- Michael

Not to mention, these *are* atari *computers* we're talking about here, dunno why you are all trying to use them on TV's anyway ;)

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