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LOVE! :love:

 

Really wish the TI had two 2600 compatible joystick ports built-in like that in the first place. Luckily, I had an adapter for it BITD, but was only single player. My friends and I would take turns on who got stuck using the keyboard when playing games like Blasto! lol

 

So many cool projects, so few cases for them though. Probably wouldn't be too difficult to 3D print something for it!

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I would suggest making sure the case has feet that allow it to rest on the floor to act as a strain relief. . .

 

Yeah I'm working on a clear acrylic case with some optional feet ..also selling it with a 1ft tail to set on the table as an option

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Nice selection. Unfortunately they don't have the monitor cable which I badly need. :-o

Is it a secret?

 

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

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I've deduced he is looking for a PAL video cable for the PAL 99/4a console which goes to component inputs. So I ordered some 6 PIN DIN connectors to attempt one. I'll need a test unit to test with. Anybody?

 

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

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There are various messages on MSX forums (which also use the PAL TMS9929A) that you can get a picture from the VDP using the components inputs on a TV but the colour levels are all messed up, and you'll need some electronics to restore the colour levels to something usable.

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Let me know if you ever get a new (expanded) bottom for the TI case in stock.

 

Can you imagine all the extra room we would all have for new internal projects if a new bottom half to the case could be obtained? Imagine an extra 3/4 inch of space inside covering the whole bottom half of the unit. A lot of goodies could be packed into that space.

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Let me know if you ever get a new (expanded) bottom for the TI case in stock.

 

Can you imagine all the extra room we would all have for new internal projects if a new bottom half to the case could be obtained? Imagine an extra 3/4 inch of space inside covering the whole bottom half of the unit. A lot of goodies could be packed into that space.

Sounds like a good 3d print project to me. :)

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Even if it weren't an entire bottom. Just 3d print a spacer. Like a rectangular thick and ridged gasket to fit between the top and the bottom halves.

 

Damn I wish I had a 3d printer. Time to add one to my wishlist.

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Nice selection. Unfortunately they don't have the monitor cable which I badly need. :-o

 

There are pinouts are here:

http://www.unige.ch/medecine/nouspikel/ti99/pinouts.htm#Monitor

 

You'll need a soldering iron, a donor video cable, and the connector that goes into the TI99 is called a "5-pin DIN" which you can find in five-packs on Amazon for around seven USD.

Tips I can provide:

These pinouts are drawn from the perspective of looking at the connector with the connector facing you, but you'll be soldering the connector "from behind" so to speak, so when you're looking at the back of the connector everything is mirrored.

 

Both style connectors use pin 1 for 12V which is only needed by the RF modulator. Since this is a direct video cable, you don't need that pin and if you accidentally shorted it or soldered things incorrectly you could fry your monitor or television I highly recommend simply removing it from the connector before you even start wiring things up. All you need to do to remove the pin from the connector is give it a little push with a pair of pliers and it should pull out pretty easily. I actually removed all of the unused pins from my NTSC composite cable build to make soldering a bit easier.

 

When soldering to the pins, the method that I found worked best for me was to twist the wires as finely as possible so that they fit into the "cup" on the back of the pin. When soldering them, I added a healthy amount of flux paste then heated the pin close to the wire (but not touching the wire) while feeding the solder into the cup. As long as you've got an appropriately sized tip and solder it should just fill the cup while wicking into wire giving you a nice, solid connection. When it came to grounding my cable, I actually soldered all of the grounding sheaths to the metal shell of the connector rather than to the pin as listed, I then soldered a jumper wire from the shell to the signal ground pin on the connector.

 

Finally, one clarification: I'm not actually sure what the first display pinout is for. I recognize the term colorburst from a video signal generation standpoint, but I don't recognize that arrangement of signal names. It doesn't appear to be S-video (that wasn't designed until 1987 anyway) or SCART so if anybody else knows what that's about I'd love to hear it. I can verify that the second pinout does work, however.

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There are pinouts are here:

http://www.unige.ch/medecine/nouspikel/ti99/pinouts.htm#Monitor

 

You'll need a soldering iron, a donor video cable, and the connector that goes into the TI99 is called a "5-pin DIN" which you can find in five-packs on Amazon for around seven USD.

Tips I can provide:

These pinouts are drawn from the perspective of looking at the connector with the connector facing you, but you'll be soldering the connector "from behind" so to speak, so when you're looking at the back of the connector everything is mirrored.

 

Both style connectors use pin 1 for 12V which is only needed by the RF modulator. Since this is a direct video cable, you don't need that pin and if you accidentally shorted it or soldered things incorrectly you could fry your monitor or television I highly recommend simply removing it from the connector before you even start wiring things up. All you need to do to remove the pin from the connector is give it a little push with a pair of pliers and it should pull out pretty easily. I actually removed all of the unused pins from my NTSC composite cable build to make soldering a bit easier.

 

When soldering to the pins, the method that I found worked best for me was to twist the wires as finely as possible so that they fit into the "cup" on the back of the pin. When soldering them, I added a healthy amount of flux paste then heated the pin close to the wire (but not touching the wire) while feeding the solder into the cup. As long as you've got an appropriately sized tip and solder it should just fill the cup while wicking into wire giving you a nice, solid connection. When it came to grounding my cable, I actually soldered all of the grounding sheaths to the metal shell of the connector rather than to the pin as listed, I then soldered a jumper wire from the shell to the signal ground pin on the connector.

 

Finally, one clarification: I'm not actually sure what the first display pinout is for. I recognize the term colorburst from a video signal generation standpoint, but I don't recognize that arrangement of signal names. It doesn't appear to be S-video (that wasn't designed until 1987 anyway) or SCART so if anybody else knows what that's about I'd love to hear it. I can verify that the second pinout does work, however.

 

I carry these already made for the ntsc model on arcadeshopper.com. The PAL I believe is a 6pin DIN and requires component inputs on the monitor. I don't carry those but I am considering making them but I have no way to QA my work as I don't have a PAL console. .

 

Greg

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