+Stephen Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Mine CRT TV is from 1989. Can you please run the attached file (Atari Control Picture)? Your machine has absolutely no red in that above image. I know that is a weakness of our machines, but there is no way that the orange and magenta are what I have seen, on any of my Atari machines since 1982 through the present - using CRTs from 1982 through a 2004 model. acp.xex 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+orpheuswaking Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Notice: I am now sold out of boards. I will begin another waiting list for the next batch. Thanks. Fingers crossed we will all be able to get these when the XEL goes live. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 (edited) The picture shows only TV set and it was not my intention on this picture to present the colors displayed on it. As you see the proper camera is set and pictures were taken later with light switched off to preserve colors. Today I have problem with uploading my pictures to gallery, there is an error. Anybody knows what might be the problem? http://atariage.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&module=images§ion=review&do=process Edited September 6, 2017 by firestorm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 No red? Please have a look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 That is from colors.xex 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 There is a lots of problems with photographing TV screen, the big one is proper setting of white balance in camera or when raw file is edited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Thanks for those extra images! Looks much better. I wonder how the red/gold vs green issue is presenting itself? From the colors.xex program shown above, red is red, gold is gold, green is green. It would make sense to stop the BallBlazer intro in an emulator, see what colour the background register is set to, since it all has to be shades of a single colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iesposta Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 Thanks for those extra images! Looks much better. I wonder how the red/gold vs green issue is presenting itself? From the colors.xex program shown above, red is red, gold is gold, green is green. It would make sense to stop the BallBlazer intro in an emulator, see what colour the background register is set to, since it all has to be shades of a single colour. It probably is that last row. Color $Fx. I made my Kong that $F4 around there which should be brown. On one 2600 machine I saw a green Kong! Since then I use a dark orange for brown. The above picture shows dark yellow as a shade of brown. That could be the camera ? as dark yellow is still quite yellow in my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firestorm Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 I will start new topic about NTSC colors possibly this weekend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted September 6, 2017 Share Posted September 6, 2017 I will start new topic about NTSC colors possibly this weekend. Please do be sure to read Trebor's comments in the 7800 UAV thread, which I linked to (now several pages back). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faicuai Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 I will start new topic about NTSC colors possibly this weekend. Exactly what I was thinking, too... I was about to start a new topic, with the purpose of allowing folks to both evaluate where the currently are, what NTSC color decoding they are seeing, and also some basic means for a completely tool-less calibration (other than Basic and a little screw-driver for rotating GTIA's color resistor, no SALT either). I actually worked on a little SW utility just suited for the above purpose, which I intended to share with everyone. It is almost done, and I think I may release it in your topic, if you open it first. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Faicuai Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 It probably is that last row. Color $Fx. I made my Kong that $F4 around there which should be brown. On one 2600 machine I saw a green Kong! Since then I use a dark orange for brown. The above picture shows dark yellow as a shade of brown. That could be the camera ? as dark yellow is still quite yellow in my experience. Correct, and not only the last row (which per original Atari documentation should be PEACH color towards the bright levels). Atari color primaries (Red / Green / Blue) have also a slight change under most recent NTSC contemporary decoding. Reds will have a slight hint of Magenta (little), Greens will be pretty much ok, and BLUES will clearly shift an entire hue value (upwards) to actually be blue (from hue 07 to hue 08). That is assuming you are decoding hue 0A (10) correctly, which should look dark-gray-blue when LUMA is set to 0 (zero). I maybe wrong but it looks to me that this is due to SMPTE-c primaries definitions, which superseded older primaries (most likely the ones under which Atari colors were rendered). This applies for us in NORTH AMERICA and the NTSC viewing devices (CRTs / LCDs) sold here. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DensB68 Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Notice: I am now sold out of boards. I will begin another waiting list for the next batch. Thanks. Hello, I would like to be put on the list for 4 kits please. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bszarek001 Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Hello everyone -- hoping for some help on my first Rev D UAV upgrade on a 2600 4-switch with a socketed TIA chip. I believe i have the wires connected from the TIA to the UAV correctly, the UAV has plenty of power (5VDC), and the TIA chip and the console were functioning just fine prior to this attempt. I bent out pin 6 of the TIA, as I read it can cause issues. I'm pulling the color from the backside of the PCB and ran it to the screw in module for the UAV (sorry if i'm using incorrect terminology). I ran the ground and the composite off the UAV to the appropriate RCA jack. Can anyone see anything glaring that I'm doing incorrectly, as I am getting no picture or sound at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated. (sorry the images are rotated). Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bszarek001 Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 As an update to the last post, there was a schematic someone posted that seemed incorrect based on what was printed on the UAV, so I switched the wires up to match the instructions and still nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 Brian - I suggest backing out your work a little bit and seeing what happens. Rig up a scrap wire and connect it straight up to the composite out and ground on the UAV then plug that to the TV without worrying about audio or anything. Just see if the system is dead or not. The UAV connections are simple with the Luma signal points marked as they are on Rev D boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bszarek001 Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 Yeah, disregard. I think at some point during the soldering process, the TIA chip died (because I know for a fact it was working prior). I soldered underneath the board and replaced the TIA chip. Works like a charm now! Brian - I suggest backing out your work a little bit and seeing what happens. Rig up a scrap wire and connect it straight up to the composite out and ground on the UAV then plug that to the TV without worrying about audio or anything. Just see if the system is dead or not. The UAV connections are simple with the Luma signal points marked as they are on Rev D boards. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 Hi, I've revised my last statement and I'll be taking pre-orders like last time since I have a lot of stuff to order to get the next batch going. I expect to ship again around the beginning of November. Prices are still: $25 Plug-In or Kit or XEL $22 Basic + shipping. Also, my apologies for any slow responses as I've been sick as a dog this week. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hueyjones70 Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Are there any complete written instructions for installing this up grade? How about a picture of a completed upgrade for an 800XL? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Are there any complete written instructions for installing this up grade? How about a picture of a completed upgrade for an 800XL? This thread and Bryan's earlier thread for the initial production version (Rev C) has dozens of posts. Check Bryan's first couple posts on Page 1 here for links to specific posts. But having said that, here's my install in an 800XL. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hueyjones70 Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Does the 4050 chip come out or stay in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Does the 4050 chip come out or stay in? Generally, the 4050 is removed and the UAV installed in its place. If your board is socketed, its a piece of cake. If not, you have to pull the chip and install a socket, or solder the legs of the UAV pins piggyback onto the 4050. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 Generally, the 4050 is removed and the UAV installed in its place. If your board is socketed, its a piece of cake. If not, you have to pull the chip and install a socket, or solder the legs of the UAV pins piggyback onto the 4050. Thanks for the assist. Best instructions are here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260267-the-uav-rev-d-video-upgrade-thread/?p=3656312 And I'm working on collecting everything for a full manual. Basically, pull out the 4050 (or solder the socket on it) and plug in the UAV. Connect the color line-in, and lift the inductors and run the 3 outputs to the DIN jack. I usually install it with 4 wires. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/246613-new-video-upgrade-coming-soon/page-23?do=findComment&comment=3493187 This picture shows where to pick off the color signal from the back end of the rightmost resistor: http://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_01_2016/post-3606-0-16229000-1453012224.jpg 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+wood_jl Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Still catching up with Atariage, but this is awesome, Bryan! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+kheller2 Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Anyone know if the SVA2 (atari 2800) uses a 4050? Curious if this board would work in one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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