BeaglzNZ Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Howdy all, I'm interested in this for my UK pal Atari 800xl (imported to NZ by the guy I purchased off) but I am wondering if its worth it given my display (Sony KLV-19T400A - multi region TV with component, PC RGB connector, HDMI, composite - but no S-video). Are there any converters recommended to convert the s-video signal to RGB, component or HDMI video? Or does this upgrade provide sufficient improvement to warrant installation based on composite video improvements alone? Another option is that I acquire another TV or monitor. If so, can you guys recommend any particular brand / model combos recommended? (A bonus would be proven available monitor suitable for the ST and Amiga!) I have seen s-video to rgb or composite cables on Ebay, but can't understand how a cheap cable can convert between what I understand to be colour incompatible video transmission formats... Apologies if Ive missed any relevant discussion about this - it's taken me about 4 days off and on to read all 26 odd pages on this forum. I haven't tried the UAV in the 800XL yet but the composite output on the Atari 400 was exceptionally crisp - in fact it appeared better than the standard composite output on the original Atari 800. I have another plug in board and a couple of kits to work with so will try over the coming weekend if time permits - might be able to help you out if you are in Auckland - did you buy the 800XL off me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irata 008 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 (edited) If your first name starts with "A", you live in a suburb starting with "G" and you have a 400 for sale on TradeMe - then yes, I bought from you (and an ST with a non working "help" key ) Edited January 17, 2018 by Irata 008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irata 008 Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Would you be keen to fit Lotharek's U1Mb for me?? ( Ordered a month ago and languishing in the Polish postal system) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 Hey just checking up on progress to see if you gave this a go. Sorry, not yet. I'm getting the next batch of UAVs out this week and dealing with the loss of my furnace. Our CO sensor started going off when the heat kicked on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugarland Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) I just installed a UAV-D into a 1200XL and the colors are shifted. Greens are brown and the blues are greenish for example. I've tried s-video and composite cables with same result. s-video looks sharper but same color shift. The dial adjuster on the UAV doesn't change the colors but I tried just in case. Tried on same display with a stock 800XL and same atr file where the 800XL colors are correct. Before installing the UAV the 1200XL's colors were correct but the quality was poor. Any ideas please? Composite line I wired to L3 (back side near video plug). Luma I wired to L1 (back side near video plug) I lifted up C103 & C104 Color signal I connected to pad arrow points to in your post here. I did not wire GND or +5v since Bryan said they are not mandatory and it should work well enough without those. Photos attached. Thank you in advance for any help. Edit: This is the first mod in this machine though I did change the GTIA chip recently to a working one. Edited January 20, 2018 by Sugarland Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) um chroma comes from r27 or adding a wire from R44 (either side) to pin 5 of J2 on most video mods and your NOT connected to r27 in your picture... I haven't looked at what your trying to do but I know that doesn't look right to me (I'm an old clearpic guy) also shouldn't they always pick from the top hole nearest chips? I could be wrong but it's my old reasoning and thinking, your picking sync? after the resistor... I may be wrong can some more eyes look at this? double check the jumper block setting on that uav, there a chart for that as well...this might be incorrect also Edited January 20, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugarland Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Thank you Doctor. I did link to the post with the screenshot showing to use that pad. Did you open it? On the 800XL yes it's the next one to the right but apparently not on the 1200. Here are some other posts showing they used the same locaiton: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260267-the-uav-rev-d-video-upgrade-thread/?view=findpost&p=3777436 http://atariage.com/forums/topic/260267-the-uav-rev-d-video-upgrade-thread/?view=findpost&p=3772042 Triple checked the jumper block it looks correct also looks identical to the posts linked above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) it looks like bryan lifted the other side of the inductors that the L's and soldered to the lifted ends, not directly to the board, to my failing eyes that might help. also we can't see how you have the wires into the terminal block.. to be honest very clear and inclusive photos are a must... the angle don't show everything... and the thread is a hodge podge of all different devices sprinkled through out, it's become quite hard to follow and very long! double check the terminal block where the wires screw in, it's susceptible to slipping with thin wires and a time or two people have screwed into insulator instead of wire, just something to check! Edited January 20, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) as I've read through the entire thread, I've notice.... the best looking outputs do indeed take the UAV outputs through the inductors (L) the wire thickness and grounding matters the jumper blocks and revision of board need to match up certain board needs to be wiggled and properly seated.. so jumpers aren't in the way.. keep wire lengths short and away from noisy parts of PCB double check all connections soldered or screwed and their order/locations! make sure UAV itselff has no shorts or cold suspect joints or jumpers... make sure the actual monitor cord/cable going to the monitor / television is not at fault Make sure the monitor/television is not at fault that's what I gleaned reviewing the UAV threads Edited January 20, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugarland Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Thank you. I tried replacing the GTIA and that seemed to help. I got a proper blue boot screen but that one might be bad too since now it won't boot. I will try another GTIA later today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) did you lift one side of the inductors? I can't tell from the pictures, try lifting one side of the side of the inductors furthest away from the monitor jacks etc and soldering to the lifted ends Edited January 20, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 I just installed a UAV-D into a 1200XL and the colors are shifted. Greens are brown and the blues are greenish for example. I've tried s-video and composite cables with same result. s-video looks sharper but same color shift. The dial adjuster on the UAV doesn't change the colors but I tried just in case. Tried on same display with a stock 800XL and same atr file where the 800XL colors are correct. Before installing the UAV the 1200XL's colors were correct but the quality was poor. Any ideas please? Composite line I wired to L3 (back side near video plug). Luma I wired to L1 (back side near video plug) I lifted up C103 & C104 Color signal I connected to pad arrow points to in your post here. I did not wire GND or +5v since Bryan said they are not mandatory and it should work well enough without those. Photos attached. Thank you in advance for any help. Edit: This is the first mod in this machine though I did change the GTIA chip recently to a working one. Not really sure how you've got it wired up compared to the "recommended" method I used (as documented by Bryan's first few posts in this thread). For instance, did you wire up Chroma at all? Anyway, I've got two UAVs in two different 1200XL's - a Rev C in one machine, and Rev D in another. Both look great. Here's how I did it: Lifted R103 and R104, as shown. Composite and Luma from the UAV terminal block to the back (lifted) end of the first two inductors). Color signal picked up and fed to the UAV Color In point on the terminal block at the resistor shown. Chroma signal run from the UAV terminal block to the DIN jack under the board. One last thing about your color issues - did you try tweaking the color potentiometer? Not the "dial adjuster" on the UAV, but the much larger potentiometer at the bottom of the 1200XL board? (The little adjustment on the UAV is to tweak the signal phases a tiny bit to sharpen up the various signals combined by the UAV - every machine is a tiny bit different and this gives you a little bit of adjustment to play with there). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwc Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Just wanted to clarify matters around the connection to the "lifted ends" of L1 (Luma) and L3 (Composite) on the 1200XL. The original instructions early in this thread were to connect to the pads vacated by the back pins of these inductors and not to the lifted end of the inductors themselves. Did anyone try / get better results soldering direct to the lifted end of the inductors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Just wanted to clarify matters around the connection to the "lifted ends" of L1 (Luma) and L3 (Composite) on the 1200XL. The original instructions early in this thread were to connect to the pads vacated by the back pins of these inductors and not to the lifted end of the inductors themselves. Did anyone try / get better results soldering direct to the lifted end of the inductors? If you solder to the lifted ends of the inductors, as shown in the recommended method photos, you won't get signal out of the DIN. Those inductors are in-line from the existing video output circuitry coming from the stock 4050 and running out to the video jack. If you wanted to connect to the inductors - for some unknown reason - you would lift the other, nearer end of the inductor, connect to that end, and then the signal would travel through the inductor and out to the DIN. See this photo of one of my units below; the red circles indicate the lifted ends of the two inductors. I've soldered in the Composite and Luma lines to the vacated vias. As you can see, the traces lead from the new wires down to the DIN jack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwc Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Thanks @DrVenkman. Crystal clear. What you describe is how I understood things. All this talk of connecting to "lifted ends" was confusing me a bit! Perhaps "vacated vias" would be a more accurate description of where you have to solder the connections. I connected mine up exactly as you did, which is in line with the original instructions at http://atariage.com/forums/topic/246613-new-video-upgrade-coming-soon/?p=3432251. I'm not sure if I ever saw the photos showing (incorrect) connections soldered direct to the lifted ends of the inductors themselves that you refer to, though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugarland Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 did you lift one side of the inductors? I can't tell from the pictures, try lifting one side of the side of the inductors furthest away from the monitor jacks etc and soldering to the lifted ends Thank you. Are you referring to L1 and L3? My second photo on post 655 show that yes I lifted them and soldered the (blue) wires from the UAV-D to those points. I will do more troubleshooting today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sugarland Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Not really sure how you've got it wired up compared to the "recommended" method I used (as documented by Bryan's first few posts in this thread). For instance, did you wire up Chroma at all? Anyway, I've got two UAVs in two different 1200XL's - a Rev C in one machine, and Rev D in another. Both look great. Here's how I did it: Lifted R103 and R104, as shown. Composite and Luma from the UAV terminal block to the back (lifted) end of the first two inductors). Color signal picked up and fed to the UAV Color In point on the terminal block at the resistor shown. Chroma signal run from the UAV terminal block to the DIN jack under the board. IMG_8479.JPG IMG_8818.JPG UAV Installed-zoom.jpg One last thing about your color issues - did you try tweaking the color potentiometer? Not the "dial adjuster" on the UAV, but the much larger potentiometer at the bottom of the 1200XL board? (The little adjustment on the UAV is to tweak the signal phases a tiny bit to sharpen up the various signals combined by the UAV - every machine is a tiny bit different and this gives you a little bit of adjustment to play with there). Awesome thank you. YES it is the color potentiometer! I think that fixed it! It seems very sensitive. How do I correctly calibrate it? By sight guesswork? I'll use Bryan's uav.xex color bars and some games to hone it in. I did notice it down there but was hesitant to touch it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Awesome thank you. YES it is the color potentiometer! I think that fixed it! It seems very sensitive. How do I correctly calibrate it? By sight guesswork? I'll use Bryan's uav.xex color bars and some games to hone it in. I did notice it down there but was hesitant to touch it. Warm up your TV or monitor, let your 1200XL warm up (about 10-15 minutes for each) and then run a color bar generator test program or at least a game you’re very familiar with. That will let you dial it in well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) it is c103 and c014 not R! r is resistors and c is capacitors, and you lift the inductor L1 and L3 the by the other end DrVenkman! then you solder to the lifted ends of the inductors! Edited January 20, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 it is c103 and c014 not R! r is resistors and c is capacitors, and you lift the inductor L1 and L3 the by the other end DrVenkman! then you solder to the lifted ends of the inductors! You're correct on the first; I mis-typed by calling them resistors. However, to quote Bryan's initial post on how to install on a 1200XL (which I linked above this morning but here it is again): Lift the back pin of L1 and L3, and connect Video and Luma to the pads on the board (Luma is L1). (emphasis added). That's what I've done for both my 1200XL installs and the output is great, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Posted the observations of trouble free installations that looked great including bryans photos, and since that's how I've been doing it without one problem or complaint I'm sure it will be of help to someone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckrtech Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 Sorry, not yet. I'm getting the next batch of UAVs out this week and dealing with the loss of my furnace. Our CO sensor started going off when the heat kicked on. Dang. Sorry to hear that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 (edited) I'll keep lifting the inductors from the other end and soldering to them, it looks better and it keeps transmission noise and accidental shortings down.. Edited January 21, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjh76 Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 So, I bought a couple of these PS2 av sockets off ebay thinking I could use one with the UAV: https://www.ebay.com/itm/WV-AV-Socket-Port-Connector-for-Playstation-2-3-Slim-PS2-Slim-PS3-Slim-Console/191624276986?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 However, now that I've got them and have had a closer look I've realized that to set it up the way I want I'd need a small custom pcb to mount it on, but making one is a bit beyond my skill level. Has anyone else here tried working with one of these before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starglider01 Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 So, I bought a couple of these PS2 av sockets off ebay thinking I could use one with the UAV: https://www.ebay.com/itm/WV-AV-Socket-Port-Connector-for-Playstation-2-3-Slim-PS2-Slim-PS3-Slim-Console/191624276986?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 However, now that I've got them and have had a closer look I've realized that to set it up the way I want I'd need a small custom pcb to mount it on, but making one is a bit beyond my skill level. Has anyone else here tried working with one of these before? Hmm, just curious, why would you need this for the UAV? Don't you just take the video cable out from the PCB? Thanks!, Starglider [emoji973]️ http://youtube.com/perifractic [emoji973]️ http://patreon.com/perifractic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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