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The UAV Rev. D Video Upgrade Thread


Bryan

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40 minutes ago, 6BQ5 said:

 

Hmmm .... 130 XE? Seeing that it already has S-Video output capabilities I am probably going to do that one last. We'll see. Right now my tentative order of installation is :

 

1) 1200XL because it has the worst video output quality - Done!

2) 800XL because it is the most widely owned 8-bit machine

3) 600XL because it needs some work to get a DIN connector properly installed in it

4) 400 because it will probably be the hardest to upgrade considering it needs an "Ultimate Atari Audio" upgrade

5) 800, if it even needs it since the output is so clean already

6) 130XE because nothing is socketed

 

Here is the manual as it stands (it goes out with every order).  There is information culled from the threads in here.  As I get a chance (and feedback), I clean up the information/change it.  As I do the installs myself for test machines and/or customers, I write up step by step and take new pictures.  

 

The 800XL was just done by me in a step by step fashion, so no need to re-invent the wheel there.  My next step is the 400.  I have two sitting here for installation.  However, I need to test the audio prototypes I made.

 

 

TBA UAV Manual.pdf

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On 7/9/2019 at 2:04 AM, Chak said:

Hi MacRorie.

 

I plan on ordering a few UAVs next month, but I will need an audio circuit.  What is the status of the Audio Companion board?

 

I know there are other circuits out there, but it would be much more desirable (for me) to just order the boards along with the UAVs.  (Honestly, I'm not even sure what boards are available.  While I'm not afraid of wiring up a circuit, a premade board is just easier and cleaner.)

 

Thanks.

I want an audio companion board too 

 

ive fitted the UAV board - I foolishly thought the A in UAV was Audio

 

any idea if these will be available soon?

 

thanks

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38 minutes ago, BazWhite said:

I want an audio companion board too 

 

ive fitted the UAV board - I foolishly thought the A in UAV was Audio

 

any idea if these will be available soon?

 

thanks

Should be by the end of the month.

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On 7/11/2019 at 12:27 AM, MacRorie said:

Sorry, I have not been having this thread send me emails.  I have prototypes of some audio boards (not Bryan's) in hand.  I have to build, install, and test them.  I will be sending out a few to people just as soon as I have a chance to do the above.  Give me till end of the month and then ping me again.

 

-M 

Works for me - I won't be ready until the middle or end of August.  Will the new boards be "equivalent" to Bryan's inasmuch as 2600 TIA, 5200 (et. al.) Pokey, and 7800 TIA + cart audio?

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On 7/11/2019 at 3:03 PM, 6BQ5 said:

Hmmm .... 130 XE? Seeing that it already has S-Video output capabilities I am probably going to do that one last. We'll see. Right now my tentative order of installation is :

 

1) 1200XL because it has the worst video output quality - Done!

2) 800XL because it is the most widely owned 8-bit machine

3) 600XL because it needs some work to get a DIN connector properly installed in it

4) 400 because it will probably be the hardest to upgrade considering it needs an "Ultimate Atari Audio" upgrade

5) 800, if it even needs it since the output is so clean already

6) 130XE because nothing is socketed

excellent.png.6ac6b919e4651b85b7417bde1b48ca4d.png

Thank you, there is only one remaining in the list for a full systems guide (very similar to the 130XE): Atari 65XE / 800XE:

 

Atari 65XE.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/14/2019 at 1:46 PM, BazWhite said:

Great - Can you please put me down for one 

 

will you you let me know?

 

Thanks

 

Barry

 

Hey, folks, just wanted to let every know that I have an audio board for the 400 that just passed its tests.  Also, I have developed an external A/V board so you can easily make connections (it has Chroma/Luma/Comp/RtAudio/LftAudio/S-video jacks on its and makes easy connections.  I will type up the install and put up pictures tomorrow (okay, later today), but I just finished testing and installing and all seems good.

 

I need to tweak the design just a hair, but production should be ready in about two weeks, tops.

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On 7/14/2019 at 5:44 PM, Chak said:

Works for me - I won't be ready until the middle or end of August.  Will the new boards be "equivalent" to Bryan's inasmuch as 2600 TIA, 5200 (et. al.) Pokey, and 7800 TIA + cart audio?

 

Well, that is going to require me to research the input points from the 7800 and the 2600, but it is electronically equivalent, yes.

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Quick question on this board, and apologies in advance if this has already been answered in this thread.

 

I just acquired a nice stock NTSC 600XL, and was planning on adding and have the components for the Jeff Popp 600XL video jack addition.  With this board would I need to only install the 5 pin video DIN port to the 600XL motherboard, and then run jumpers from the UAV outputs directly to the terminals on the video port, or would I also need to add all the components that are part of the kit I have as well? 

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2 minutes ago, jnharmon said:

Quick question on this board, and apologies in advance if this has already been answered in this thread.

 

I just acquired a nice stock NTSC 600XL, and was planning on adding and have the components for the Jeff Popp 600XL video jack addition.  With this board would I need to only install the 5 pin video DIN port to the 600XL motherboard, and then run jumpers from the UAV outputs directly to the terminals on the video port, or would I also need to add all the components that are part of the kit I have as well? 

That is correct.  All you would need is the monitor jack.

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27 minutes ago, jnharmon said:

I just acquired a nice stock NTSC 600XL, and was planning on adding and have the components for the Jeff Popp 600XL video jack addition.  With this board would I need to only install the 5 pin video DIN port to the 600XL motherboard, and then run jumpers from the UAV outputs directly to the terminals on the video port, or would I also need to add all the components that are part of the kit I have as well? 

Wow!  Thanks for asking this question because I found myself wondering the *exact* same thing today.  All of the jumpers that are added to Best's kit were intimidating me a bit.  :)

24 minutes ago, MacRorie said:

That is correct.  All you would need is the monitor jack.

I assume that I still need to cut the tracer between pins 2 & 5 on the motherboard though?  

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Hi SS,

I did exactly that. I thought what is the point of getting the Best kit when UVA is simple and better quality image.

I thought the most complicated part was to make a hole for the connector, but you just need to measure relative distances and put a mark with a pencil to get a good circular hole in the 600XL case. Also get rid (desolder) of the channel selection switch. The rest is pretty easy:

the DIN5 connector is pretty easy to solder, the pads holes are already there , the Audio is already connected. Just need to cut the trace between two DIN5 pins (back of motherboard as you already mentioned) and then get signal to the each DIN pin. 

Check the images in this post:

https://atariage.com/forums/topic/246613-new-video-upgrade-coming-soon/?p=3461801

Go for it!

Edited by manterola
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  • 3 weeks later...

I was having issues earlier with a heavy 6 and the UAV r.C and I posted a pic of Adventure earlier but got ignored (its ok, happens to me in life).
So I ended up getting a UAV r.D and im getting the same issues. You can see at the edges of everything its all... shifted, offset, unaligned ?!?!? I don't know what to call it but heres a pic. I have tried 3 different TV's using the composite with the same effect.

I've put a socket over the 4050 and followed all the directions I could find here. Any ideas or should I post this in another thread?

 

OH, I also need at least one or two of those audio boards! :)

20190824_112207.thumb.jpg.294a057fdc523019622338e4d8f01af2.jpg

Edited by Stormbringer
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8 hours ago, Stormbringer said:

I was having issues earlier with a heavy 6 and the UAV r.C and I posted a pic of Adventure earlier but got ignored (its ok, happens to me in life).
So I ended up getting a UAV r.D and im getting the same issues. You can see at the edges of everything its all... shifted, offset, unaligned ?!?!? I don't know what to call it but heres a pic. I have tried 3 different TV's using the composite with the same effect.

I've put a socket over the 4050 and followed all the directions I could find here. Any ideas or should I post this in another thread?

 

OH, I also need at least one or two of those audio boards! :)

20190824_112207.thumb.jpg.294a057fdc523019622338e4d8f01af2.jpg

Sorry, I am not sure I am seeing what you are meaning.  Where is the offset?  Have you tried using the alignment controls on the monitor itself?

 

Audio boards (or at least TBA's incarnation of them) are available at: https://thebrewingacademy.com/collections/atari-800-xl-xe-xel-xld/products/internal-audio-board-atari-400-others

 

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Installed a UAV last night into my #2 800XL.  This XL is a slightly earlier production machine than my other one, and some of the chips are not socketed, incl. the 4050 that gets replaced by the UAV.  No problem, chip desoldered and pulled, kit supplied socket installed.

 

There was some very faint vertical banding (easily lived with) in my other 800XL after the UAV mod, so this time I decided to try isolating the 5v video power from the clock oscillator circuit (they share the same trace for 5vdc power) as described in Bryan's 'Quick and easy video upgrade for the 800XL' that was referenced earlier in this thread.  So I pulled L5 to break the old 5v path and ran a wire from the front of C3 to the front of C51 to bring in 'clean' 5v to the video circuit.

 

I had high hopes, but they were for naught.  I have severe vertical 'zipper' banding.  I am hoping to get some suggestions on what to try to clean the display up.  I'm thinking maybe I should reinsert L5 and remove the line between C3 and C51.  I'm also wondering if soldering the UAV directly to the motherboard might help.  The socket supplied with the kit is made for DIP IC chips with thin pins, but the UAV has thick round pins and it is very difficult to get the UAV fully inserted in the socket.  I don't think I have it in all the way.  Could that be part of the problem?

 

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

1.png

3.png

4.png

5.png

12.png

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1 hour ago, Colleton said:

Installed a UAV last night into my #2 800XL.  .................................

 

I had high hopes, but they were for naught.  I have severe vertical 'zipper' banding.  I am hoping to get some suggestions on what to try to clean the display up.  I'm thinking maybe I should reinsert L5 and remove the line between C3 and C51.  I'm also wondering if soldering the UAV directly to the motherboard might help.  The socket supplied with the kit is made for DIP IC chips with thin pins, but the UAV has thick round pins and it is very difficult to get the UAV fully inserted in the socket.  I don't think I have it in all the way.  Could that be part of the problem? 

  

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. 

 

 

I get this to a lesser degree as well. Running separate +5vdc and ground didn't change it. I've read here that shielding the RAM IC's might help, as in putting a single large aluminum block on top of them and grounding it. Haven't tried that yet.

 

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1 hour ago, Colleton said:

Installed a UAV last night into my #2 800XL.  This XL is a slightly earlier production machine than my other one, and some of the chips are not socketed, incl. the 4050 that gets replaced by the UAV.  No problem, chip desoldered and pulled, kit supplied socket installed.

 

There was some very faint vertical banding (easily lived with) in my other 800XL after the UAV mod, so this time I decided to try isolating the 5v video power from the clock oscillator circuit (they share the same trace for 5vdc power) as described in Bryan's 'Quick and easy video upgrade for the 800XL' that was referenced earlier in this thread.  So I pulled L5 to break the old 5v path and ran a wire from the front of C3 to the front of C51 to bring in 'clean' 5v to the video circuit.

 

I had high hopes, but they were for naught.  I have severe vertical 'zipper' banding.  I am hoping to get some suggestions on what to try to clean the display up.  I'm thinking maybe I should reinsert L5 and remove the line between C3 and C51.  I'm also wondering if soldering the UAV directly to the motherboard might help.  The socket supplied with the kit is made for DIP IC chips with thin pins, but the UAV has thick round pins and it is very difficult to get the UAV fully inserted in the socket.  I don't think I have it in all the way.  Could that be part of the problem?

 

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Have you tried shifting the ground point? If you find a ground point electronically further away, it tends to decrease noise.

Additionally, this may not be a problem with the installation so much as it may be noise the cable you are using.  I have had good results with attaching ferrite cores to the cable.

 

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3 hours ago, MacRorie said:

Sorry, I am not sure I am seeing what you are meaning.  Where is the offset?  Have you tried using the alignment controls on the monitor itself?

 

Audio boards (or at least TBA's incarnation of them) are available at: https://thebrewingacademy.com/collections/atari-800-xl-xe-xel-xld/products/internal-audio-board-atari-400-others

 

If you look on every edge of every object you will see another slightly offset image. There are no "alignment controls" as this is composite in to TV's. I've got other UAV's in various forms for my 400s and 800s. I will admit one of my 800's does the same thing but the others dont, however.

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2 hours ago, MacRorie said:

Have you tried shifting the ground point? If you find a ground point electronically further away, it tends to decrease noise.

Additionally, this may not be a problem with the installation so much as it may be noise the cable you are using.  I have had good results with attaching ferrite cores to the cable.

 

 

Well, I have it reassembled right now.  If I ever take it back apart I'll try moving the ground point.  I don't think it's the monitor cable as I get much better looking video with the same cable on my other UAV equipped 800XL.  I can try a ferrite core, I have a few on old RF output lines I've removed from an 800 and a 400.

 

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

FWIW, I reinstalled L5 and removed the 5v line from C3 to C51.  Made no difference.  I'll live with it for now.

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On 8/24/2019 at 10:39 AM, Stormbringer said:

I was having issues earlier with a heavy 6 and the UAV r.C and I posted a pic of Adventure earlier but got ignored (its ok, happens to me in life).
So I ended up getting a UAV r.D and im getting the same issues. You can see at the edges of everything its all... shifted, offset, unaligned ?!?!? I don't know what to call it but heres a pic. I have tried 3 different TV's using the composite with the same effect.

I've put a socket over the 4050 and followed all the directions I could find here. Any ideas or should I post this in another thread?

 

OH, I also need at least one or two of those audio boards! :)

20190824_112207.thumb.jpg.294a057fdc523019622338e4d8f01af2.jpg

What you seem to be pointing out is that there is artifacting between color changes.  That's just par for the course with composite video.  Its low bandwidth means you can't get good sharp transitions.  You might see slightly better video with S-video, but the only way to get pixel-perfect output is with RGB or digital.

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