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Bryan

The UAV Rev. D Video Upgrade Thread

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Do you mean the left and right sides of the image?

That overscan area can be cropped out.

I mean that something is wrong because your image doesn't look like this. You have banding in GTIA mode 9 and it looks like a LUM1 is missing. Do you have a continuity meter to check connections?

post-3606-0-13265100-1500390877.jpg

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I mean that your image doesn't look like this. You have banding in GTIA mode 9 and it looks like a LUM1 is missing. Do you have a continuity meter to check connections?

 

Yes I have a meter.

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Okay, check continuity from Pin 22 of GTIA (as shown) to the jumper located across the 4th row of pins. You should be able to contact the metal in the jumper from the top, or remove the jumper and test to the pin marked TO GTIA PIN 22.

 

Yes I have a meter.

post-3606-0-86929700-1500391687.jpg

post-3606-0-11107900-1500391990_thumb.jpg

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Oh, good. I Just put a piece of tape (or better, thin cardboard) on the shield or something like that. :)

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Oh, good. I Just put a piece of tape (or better, thin cardboard) on the shield or something like that. :)

 

You mean between the shield and the UAV?

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You mean between the shield and the UAV?

Yes, on the underside where the jumpers are.

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It was the shield touching the UAV.

Looks much better now.

Thank you!

 

attachicon.gifIMG_0580.JPG

 

Weird...

 

It does not seem those are true Ballblazer colors (NTSC)... and there are no specular (blown-out) highlights either. It is possible that both color-phase and luma-ramps (contrast + brightness) need to be adjusted to extract correct colors and tonality (unless picture exceeds dynamic range of camera or phone used to capture photo).

 

There are NO reds on intro-screen. It is GREEN on the foreground, with a DEEP green on the back-ground (below shown intentionally sub-exposed to demonstrate that highlights are also green, not white):

 

post-29379-0-84142500-1500424360_thumb.jpg

 

And there is no pure red on dash-board view, either (also slightly sub-exposed):

 

post-29379-0-38148000-1500424391_thumb.jpg

 

 

There are reds / oranges, however, on intermediate screen:

 

post-29379-0-58426100-1500424564_thumb.jpg

 

 

And when anyone gets hit, it looks something like this:

 

post-29379-0-52168200-1500425410_thumb.jpg

 

 

(NOTE: sorry for the aliasing, as my phone is capturing the actual LCD "pixels" structure, as well !)

 

 

Above images are not gamma-calibrated, or saturation-corrected (on LCD they are brighter and more vivid across the entire tonality range). However, these do show hues pretty closely, and full dynamic range of what is actually being displayed on real LCD.

 

 

Cheers!

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Weird...

 

It does not seem those are true Ballblazer colors (NTSC)... and there are no specular (blown-out) highlights either. It is possible that both color-phase and luma-ramps (contrast + brightness) need to be adjusted to extract correct colors and tonality (unless picture exceeds dynamic range of camera or phone used to capture photo).

 

There are NO reds on intro-screen. It is GREEN on the foreground, with a DEEP green on the back-ground (below shown intentionally sub-exposed to demonstrate that highlights are also green, not white):

 

Maybe he uses a PAL system? When using PAL the colors are exactly like in the post #351.

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Page 1 of this thread has links for installation in basically every Atari model. :)

 

I've got one installed in an 800XL, two in 1200XL's and another in a 4-switch 2600. So if you can't figure it out from the links on Page 1, let us know.

 

Hey for the 800XL do you do any other mods or literally just install this to get a good picture? I have an 800XL i've just resurrected and installed the U1MB.. would like to further refine the video :)

 

Thanks!

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Hey for the 800XL do you do any other mods or literally just install this to get a good picture? I have an 800XL i've just resurrected and installed the U1MB.. would like to further refine the video :)

 

Thanks!

 

Just this board.

 

Now, you do need to solder a few wires - for a full installation, you need Color in, and you need at least Composite and Luma out to two spots that feed into the video DIN jack. For the best video, run a third output wire for Chroma straight to the unused pin on the DIN for Y-C (S-Video). :)

 

post-30400-0-55553000-1501030106_thumb.jpg

(UAV-equipped Atari 800XL to Commodore 1702 monitor)

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Are these still available? The 800XL I have at the moment has bad picture with lovely crisp faint vertical lines and plenty of horizontal bleed/tint where light colours and on darker non-black backgrounds.

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Can Bryan or anyone point me to the proper soldering points on the Rev. D board for a 2600 without the 4050 chip? I have a Rev. 16 board so no 4050 chip. I found a diagram showing the LUM points off the TIA but on the Rev. D board it also has points on it labelled "1", "2", "3", "S", etc that don't match to the diagram. So I'm not sure which ones to follow. Any help is appreciated :)

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Can Bryan or anyone point me to the proper soldering points on the Rev. D board for a 2600 without the 4050 chip? I have a Rev. 16 board so no 4050 chip. I found a diagram showing the LUM points off the TIA but on the Rev. D board it also has points on it labelled "1", "2", "3", "S", etc that don't match to the diagram. So I'm not sure which ones to follow. Any help is appreciated :)

I'm guessing you're looking at the Rev C diagram? The points marked on the Rev D board are correct. Use 1, 2, 3, and S for LUM0, LUM1, LUM2 and SYNC (ignore the '0' input, and shift the others up one). I pulled power from the modulator pins:

 

post-3606-0-16975400-1452287406.jpg

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I'm guessing you're looking at the Rev C diagram? The points marked on the Rev D board are correct. Use 1, 2, 3, and S for LUM0, LUM1, LUM2 and SYNC (ignore the '0' input, and shift the others up one). I pulled power from the modulator pins:

 

post-3606-0-16975400-1452287406.jpg

 

 

Awesome! Thank you very much Bryan :)

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Awesome! Thank you very much Bryan :)

You're welcome, and ignore the hacked up board. You can leave everything in place.

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So let's say, hypothetically, that someone were to accidentally set a 800XL via the rev C jumpers instead of the rev D (which I *speculate* would result in a very poor dark picture), would there be any likely damage to the Atari or the UAV?

 

Having corrected them the composite picture is working, I don't have a cable ready yet to test the S-video.

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So let's say, hypothetically, that someone were to accidentally set a 800XL via the rev C jumpers instead of the rev D (which I *speculate* would result in a very poor dark picture), would there be any likely damage to the Atari or the UAV?

 

Having corrected them the composite picture is working, I don't have a cable ready yet to test the S-video.

No. It shouldn't cause any problems.

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