Jump to content
Bryan

The UAV Rev. D Video Upgrade Thread

Recommended Posts

More pointedly: is UAV designed to work on SECAM systems, and if it is, has it been installed, tested and evaluated on a SECAM machine?

 

The only relevant post I can find is this one, in which Bryan explains that he can't test on a SECAM machine (presumably because he doesn't have one), and that 'the video hardware is different', which is certainly correct.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've added myself to this list, but my main reason was to see if UAV helped with the general muddiness of the 800XL Secam display.

 

does anyone know if UAV will help?

 

I´m pretty sure that UAV won´t work without changes to it´s circuit. The FGTIA (SECAM GTIA) has also four Luminance-lines and CSYNC (composite sync), which is good for UAV, but there´s no single color signal. The Jerzy schematics show a "composite" output, but this is composite sync IMHO, not composite video. At least the videochip (NCS2563) used at the UAV PCB doesn´t say anything of SECAM capatibility in his specs.

 

I can make a test, if my current TV is able to display SECAM (for a positive test using the default video jack).

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it's a pity that there's nothing that'll refine the "muddy" outpute of Secam XLs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Folks,

 

I sent this to all of the pre-order list, but for those of you NOT on the list, here's why the website date changed:

 

Folks,

First of all, thank you for your order! If you are receiving this email, it means you have requested one or more UAV rev. D boards but have NOT paid for it. This is NOT a request for payment. Just an update.
I am looking forward to getting these out of the door to you in short order. I was hoping to get these out to you starting tomorrow, but that appears to not be possible. I have been in communication with the fab plant in China. They are back from the Lunar New Year festivities, but it seems that the UAV will not be ready until the end of the month. To be specific:
Thanks for your patient waiting. We are work normally now, the estimated lead time of your order is end of this month.
Sooo, it looks like it will be a little more time. I do apologize for this and I will send another message next week as we get closer. If *ALL* else fails, I do have a backup plan that is almost ready to go. To wit: In the future, I will be assembling the entire thing myself and I have all the parts I need to do that in stock. Just need to start the process. This time, I went with the usual producer that Bryan used to try and expedite the process. That, obviously, did not work out as I had hoped.
However, in the future, this means there will be no delays in waiting for a fabricator because *I* will be the fabricator! ;-=)
Thanks for your support and patience and please feel free to ask any questions!
Thanks!
-Marlin
P.S. If you thought you already paid for your UAV order, please feel free to contact us with the PayPal payment ID or WebStore order confirmation and we will get you all sorted correctly.
  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is great news - I have a stack of systems waiting for refurb/upgrade. Will the "Audio Companion" or similar be offered as well?

 

 

Folks,

 

I am happy to announce that Bryan has agreed to let The Brewing Academy produce all versions of the UAV rev. D. As with all of the products we produce, they will be offered for as long as possible on both the website and eBay. You may also PM me here for details on how to order.

 

I have ordered parts and boards from various sources and I am confident that all versions will be available for sale on or about 15 February. It would be sooner, but most of the companies I am working with will be taking the next two weeks off for Chinese New year.

 

Feel free to contact me for information. Pricing should remain about the same (maybe +$1-2 at most). Let me know if you have any questions!

 

-M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Folks,

As promised, here is an update regarding the status of your order. I have been patiently waiting for an update as to the status of the UAVs. I received the email today (it is pasted below). In their defense, they have been very responsive to my emails, just not very expeditious in delivering the product. However, I am hopeful that I will see units soon. As this is my first interaction with the company that Bryan used, I cannot tell you where we are at with any amount of precision. I have faith that they will arrive and soonish, but how soon I can only guess.
The initial order I placed with them was 200 units, so there will be enough to go around. I have the parts and blank PCBs to make them 100 of them all on my own for the future and and I am in the process of programming a brand new SMD pick and place machine to make them. Unfortunately, I was hoping to be able to learn the system without the pressure of having to produce paid for units, so that is not able to take up the slack right now.
I am still hopeful for a 01 March ship date, but need to make you aware that I am on somebody else’s timetable. As always, if this is a deal-breaker, just let me know and I will refund your payment!
Enclosed message:
Dear Marlin,

Thanks for your following up of this project, all things of this project are ready, tomorrow we will begin the soldering of sample board.

We should send this project to you before this week if all things goes well.
Best regards,
Mike



-Dr. Marlin “MacRorie” Bates, IV
-President, The Brewing Academy
-Voice: 530-618-BREW (2739)
-Web: http://www.thebrewingacademy.com/
-BBS (Telnet):bbs.thebrewingacademy.com(Port: 8888) // 76.14.174.25 (Port: 8888)
-http://card.psnprofiles.com/1/MacRorie.png
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

UPDATE:

 

All units are in hand. Pre-paid orders are shipping. If you were on the unpaid request list, look for a PayPal invoice within the next 48 hours.

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Folks,

 

I have put together an installation manual (of sorts). Right now it is some basic cutting & pasting of information for installations, so I could ship it with the UAVs that have been ordered. It was either that or a little slip of paper that said "Google. It's your friend. Maybe." I am open to comments/changes/wholesale edits/changes/whatever. It may not bubble to the top of the priority list as I am making sure everything gets out the door in a timely basis, but comments are appreciated if not immediately acted upon.

 

Thanks!

 

EDIT: Links in the manual are NOT active yet. Just placeholders for now. Working on this. Two hours and counting, but links in manuals should work for everyone except for my desktop which is, for some reason, stuck in a 13 March ides of March groundhog day event.

EDIT2: Fixing as I going along. Had to order more toner for shipping items. v1.01 is up.

TBA UAV Manual for digital.pdf

TBA UAV Manual for print.pdf

  • Like 10

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great. The information being scattered was always an issue. Maybe a future iteration can show the best ways to pull down audio signals. Most here know, but just a thought. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

UPDATE:

 

All units are in hand. Pre-paid orders are shipping. If you were on the unpaid request list, look for a PayPal invoice within the next 48 hours.

I haven't read through this entire thread, but if it is possible to get get on the unpaid request list I have PayPal ready to send for two units.

 

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great!. I didn't know how to adjust the potentiometer for color phase. And I didn't know about the split pad for ground and 5V. I just connected GND to the pad. So what is the problem of not cutting the center connection of the pad?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The pads are for alternative connections - if you want to power the UAV via a dedicated 5V line wired from a different source (e.g., not pulling current from the 4050 socket), you cut the pad and solder to one side (can't recall which side specifically but I've done it that way at least once - I've got pics somewhere). Ground is less critical, I think. There are two ground points in the terminal block, IIRC, plus the pad on top. If you'd rather skip the terminal block for the socket ground, you can wire it there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW, the link to uav_xex.zip is broken,and I could not find an alternative site to download it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another BTW, the jumper setting image on page 3 is reversed, but otherwise a great compilation of all the info scattered about. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW, the link to uav_xex.zip is broken,and I could not find an alternative site to download it.

Somebody have it? I want adjust the color phase pote

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want a good reference on the UAV then go HERE and download the manual for print.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't read through this entire thread, but if it is possible to get get on the unpaid request list I have PayPal ready to send for two units.

 

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

 

 

Just order form the website:

 

https://www.thebrewingacademy.com/

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hitting the road for about 12 hours, will do ASAP. m/ rock on m/

 

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

 

No worries. Enjoy the road trip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey all,

I found what I think might be an alternative way from different methods I've seen. It seems to provide a very clean and brilliant image. I need to make an improvement on how it's connected and get some pictures taken when I have some daylight. But here's how it's setup. This is a quick and dirty guide, I'll work on a better one later. The biggest issue with the guides and instructions people are making, do not include some steps, insight or proper pictures to help 1st timers build a proper setup with the UAV. I also would like some input from anyone who may have installed a UAV in a NTSC 2600 jr. So for now this is a sorta beta/alpha installation for me. It's working, but the S-video will be tested tomorrow to make sure it's working correctly. I suspect it will be fine.

 

This works on a NTSC version, I don't have a PAL setup to test.

 

1. Typical removal of the 4050 IC. (toss it if you wish, it's not needed)

- Install machine grade pins to the socket connectors (allows the length needed to tip it forward and solider. This gives the clearance needed for the shielding.

2. Pin jumpers follow a different layout. But are the same as another layout I saw in the forum. X are connected jumps.


- O O O O O O O X X O

- O X X O O X X X X O

3. Remove the following connections R31,R53,R56,R42,C53 & 54, R19 & C34.

- Keep C34 intact, pull it out Vs. Cutting it out. it's going to be reused.

- Check voltage on R19 at this point to make sure it's been disconnected 100%.

4. Connect the following to positions to your Color in on the UAV

- To the right of the CPU, R28 has a though hole just below it. Connect that position to CO IN on the UAV.

- Connect the South end of resistor (R52) Closest to the bottom end of the board to CO IN on the UAV.

- What does this do? It cleans up the image and equalized the color brightness levels so no other color was stronger than any other.

5. Connect the CV (Composite Video) to the R19 Right East (or right side of the former resistor location.)

- The R19 though hole connection is traced to the former RF output, so you can use it for composite video. The RF should be dead if you disconnected the other connections.

- Double check R19 with a voltage meter!

6. Connect the C34 Ceramic Cap to the following points in any way you want. From under with kynar or on top with kynar. You can soilder it to the jumper or to the points under it. or bridge it with the C34 alone.

- What's this do? it bumps up the color vibrancy and saturation. I totally stumbled on this, and have yet to see if this works on any other Atari.

- O O O O O O O X X O

- O X X O O X X X X O

7. Clear the 4050's holes of any solider, prepare the UAV with the machine grade pins.

- With the machine pins installed on the UAV, fit it into the former 4050 socket at a tipped angle, in favor of the lowest point to the front of the Jr's PCB.

The image is a prototyping of it today, the final has no picture to share yet. Please let me know if you notice anything unclear or have concerns about this method causing issues for you! Validation with examples will help!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm, I received my upgrade recently but I'm not sure I'm smart enough to get it installed in my 400. Has anybody made a walk through? I'm sorry but the 1 picture of 1 wire just isn't enough for somebody who isn't super into modding systems...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi folks, glad I found this thread.

 

I bought the UAV upgrade a couple of weeks ago for my beloved 800XL. I wasn't expecting any issues when installing it but, alas, issues have arisen and I can use some help figuring out WTF happened. The Atari was running fine before attempting this upgrade. After installation, I turned on the computer and got very badly distorted video. I can't even describe what it looked like, just a jumbled mess. I turned off the computer, reseated just the UAV board, and turned on the computer again. This time the computer didn't even turn on. No power light, nothing.

 

I turned everything off and pulled out the multimeter. I confirmed that all of the connections are solid and there's no shorts or cross-connections happening.

 

I was randomly turning the computer off and on at various times and at one time the computer DID turn on (power light came on) but there was no video. I turned the computer off, then on again, and again had no power.

 

One thing of potential interest/consequence: My 800XL has several mods already installed including a RAMBO XL 256KB upgrade, F1-F4 function keys, and a "cold boot" reset button (so I can cold boot my computer without losing my RAM disk). I don't know if the UAV has an issue with any/all of these.

 

Here's a photo album showing my computer: https://imgur.com/a/eXqUDEP

 

Any ideas where I might have gone wrong?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm, I received my upgrade recently but I'm not sure I'm smart enough to get it installed in my 400. Has anybody made a walk through? I'm sorry but the 1 picture of 1 wire just isn't enough for somebody who isn't super into modding systems...

 

+1. Same here with my Atari 400. I can't see how can I connect anything with just one image showing what it can be the first step?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...