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Bringing the 1027 printer back from the dead


electronizer

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How difficult is the process of replacing the 1027 rubber print head? I'm trying to determine the condition of the printer I have here. As pictured, the original rubber head has dry rotted and fallen away. What do I see here? Two small screws and four metal guides at the front of print head. With power, the carriage slides fully to left position and spins, but will catch/snag when the four guides don't quite allign with the screw block. I see four matching grooves for the metal guides. I am guessing that with a new rubber, the guides will be kept in line all the time. I remember a short spin-up being normal when the printer still worked many years ago. Am I missing anything obvious?

 

Edit: I just discovered the PDF manual posted in the order thread. I would still be interested an any info fellow 1027 owners have to share. :)

 

post-15209-0-21260000-1509642521.jpg

Edited by RodLightning
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...

position and spins, but will catch/snag when the four guides don't quite allign with the screw block. I see four matching grooves for the metal guides. I am guessing that with a new rubber, the guides will be kept in line all the time.

...

 

You have to bend the guides back into the correct position before doing the exchange. Otherwise this "comb" will ruin the replacement. I have had a similar problem here and the bending process it not that easy without disassembling the head.

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You have to bend the guides back into the correct position before doing the exchange. Otherwise this "comb" will ruin the replacement. I have had a similar problem here and the bending process it not that easy without disassembling the head.

 

I think they are straight now after some prying and pinching with tweezers. Should they be straight enough to spin with no rubber installed? The 1027 I have here now spins freely most of the time but there is some side-to side motion possible in the "comb" guides. I wondered if the silicon will keep them in line without being damaged or if it is even a good idea to run the head under power without a rubber part installed?

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I wondered if the silicon will keep them in line without being damaged or if it is even a good idea to run the head under power without a rubber part installed?

 

There is a "bit" support of the rubber for the guides, but normally the guides should hold their position without "assistance" from the rubber.

The most important step before the exchange is cleaning the unit. Very often there is rubber debris below the drum at the lower edge of the comb - this could be possibly the reason for the vibration of the comb spacer.

Make the test with the paper strip like written in the manual to check if the drum can turn freely...

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I sort of like that sound. No other printer I have ever heard is quite like it. I'm thinking however, about storage to prolong the life of the print head and ink roller. A 1027 is small enough to maybe fit the entire thing into some kind of air tight container. If I get one working again, it will be put away when not in use.

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  • 11 months later...

Hay kinda the same thing here. I would love to help in the process. I don't care if it sounds like a machine gun but has anyone thought of silicon?

 

Kinda a pink orange rubber that is very easily molded yet I am unaware if it work well at these small dimensions.

 

Side note... I am VERY interested in a clean case to mod a 1200XL keyboard enclosure for a 1088XEL build.

 

Thanks! I will repost in WTB.

 

But feel free to PM me

 

Douglas

 

 

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  • 8 months later...

I recently bought a 1027 printer which I hope to get back into working condition if I can get the print head belt rebuilt.   It's missing some pieces including the most critical, the power supply.  I did a search for a new or used power supply and found a unit made by UpBright on Amazon which claimed:

 

UpBright NEW 9V AC / AC Adapter Replacement For Vintage Atari Power Supply, Vintage Atari CO61636, Atari 1027 Printer, 1090XL .Interface 1200XL 400 800 810 822 850 1010 1020 1050 XF551 game systems 9VAC AC9V 9.0V Class 2 Transformer Power Supply Cord Cable PS Wall Home Battery Charger Mains PSU.

 

It looks like an Atari power brick and may work well with any 9VAC unit, but it WILL NOT fit the 1027 as the plug size is wrong. 

 

So I took a 50 minute ride to the last remaining Radio Shack anywhere near me in Brodheadsville, PA. in the hopes that they might have a barrel connector that would fit the unit.  The clerk had a key ring full of different plugs and not one of them fit.  I had given up and was ready to go home when my wife pointed out a wire basket full of power supplies and cords and there was a laptop supply that had a connector that popped right in.  So now, with a little splicing, maybe I can get this thing working.  Assuming the Chinese supply doesn't smoke the first time its plugged in.

 

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