Level42 Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 (edited) MouseSelect_cover_proto.JPG It will attach to the tactile switch with a couple of small drops of glue. Doesn't need a lot of strength, since it's well protected inside the hole. - Michael ???????????? That looks great [anal mode] black screws :D [anal mode off.] I'm interested in the schematics (always interested in schematics) of this one....what chip is U1 ? Edited November 17, 2017 by Level42 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 (edited) Ah, I mean rather that I had used that same solution rather than a specific part. That being said, I think this was the ones I used https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-40-Pin-DIP-SIP-IC-Sockets-Adaptor-Solder-Type-FREE-SHIPPING/260527720833 10 of those for about the the price of two of the eBay ones. Maybe there is quality difference....could be...can't compare......but Love'm.....I always have the right size sockets at hand https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-2-54mm-pitch-round-holes-round-pins-1-40-female-socket/32548784973.html?spm=a2g0z.10010108.1000016.1.2ea072eaUw9dbM&isOrigTitle=true Edited November 17, 2017 by Level42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 That looks great [anal mode] black screws :D [anal mode off.] I'm interested in the schematics (always interested in schematics) of this one....what chip is U1 ? YES, Me too.. This is EASY to fix, usine either black screws, or a Sharpie Marker. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted November 17, 2017 Author Share Posted November 17, 2017 That looks great [anal mode] black screws :D [anal mode off.] I'm interested in the schematics (always interested in schematics) of this one....what chip is U1 ? Actually to be in proper BBcode format it would be... [anal mode]black screws :-D [/anal mode]. Opps I guess that was kind of anal Just kidding, that was simply a prototype test, and those were the only screws I had on hand. No worries everyone is free to use whatever screws they like . Schematic U1 is another PIC chip. To be specific a PIC12F629. These 8 pin PIC's come in handy for all kinds of things where it would normally require quite a bit of discrete logic to do the same thing. 10 of those for about the the price of two of the eBay ones. Maybe there is quality difference....could be...can't compare......but Love'm.....I always have the right size sockets at hand https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-2-54mm-pitch-round-holes-round-pins-1-40-female-socket/32548784973.html?spm=a2g0z.10010108.1000016.1.2ea072eaUw9dbM&isOrigTitle=true Thanks for the link, but I don't trust a lot of the sockets coming from those kind of sources. I remember buying a big bag full of 40 pin precision IC sockets, only to have them begin to fail after a couple of insertions. Also purchased some extended lead female headers from two different vendors, but they had the flimsiest leads I've ever seen. Instead I got some of these coming from Digi-Key: P/N 952-2538-ND, which can be used for the crystal socket, as well as the UAV's 6 pin SIP. These should be reliable, but I'll give them a good work out when I receive them just to be sure. YES, Me too.. This is EASY to fix, usine either black screws, or a Sharpie Marker. Yep I used a Sharpie for stuff like that, and it actually worked quite well . - Michael 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariNerd Posted November 17, 2017 Share Posted November 17, 2017 (edited) Though, having a little area of contrast, that draws your eye and to serve as an indicator of a user interface, isn't such a bad thing. Maybe colored screws, like an electric blue to attract attention or maybe a medium gray color, if you want a unified, tasteful subdued scheme, but so there is still a little indication. Or , you can put a badge around it, that discretely covers the screws and depending on the color and contrast, highlight / subdue the area, while also still providing a notice that there is a human / machine interface of some sort, there, labeled or plain. Or bondo / fill those holes and hope no-one notices? Depend on just how much and of what kind of obsessive one is. Me, to be honest, I'll probably use whatever screws I have on hand at the moment and hope they match, overcompensating later by buying a large assortment that will later sit in a drawer, mostly unused for quite some time. Edited November 17, 2017 by Standard User 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Here's a small Win32 program to help keep track of Parts Ordering and Installation for DIY'elfers. 1088BOM.ZIP Double-Click in the columns of the main program to edit. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Firedawg Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Thx Ray! This program will be very useful. My DigiKey order arrived today with my 1088XEL & XEL-CF-][ components. Once my new soldering tips arrive then the fun begins. Need to take care of some other device updates with my U1MB (Candle version) and Sophia in the mean time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Stephen Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Here's a small Win32 program to help keep track of Parts Ordering and Installation for DIY'elfers. PARTSLIST.PNGPartsCount.png 1088BOM.ZIP Double-Click in the columns of the main program to edit. Shit man - that's genius! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Thanx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted November 18, 2017 Author Share Posted November 18, 2017 Here's a small Win32 program to help keep track of Parts Ordering and Installation for DIY'elfers. PARTSLIST.PNGPartsCount.png 1088BOM.ZIP Double-Click in the columns of the main program to edit. That is pretty great Everyone just a reminder, I have some alternative sip sockets coming that I think will work very good for the crystal instead of the idea of using a piece of a double wipe socket. I should receive it on Monday. But if you can't wait until then, test out a crystal in any other precision socket you may have, and if it stays tight after half a dozen insertions then it's a keeper. - Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted November 18, 2017 Share Posted November 18, 2017 Mayne a stupid question, why do they need to survive lots of inserians ? If you want to switch netwerk crystals often you can easily use a mechanical toggle switch between two legs. I've used that in my Lynx years and years ago to switch between the original 16Mhz and 24Mhz crystal. If it's just as an indicator for quality, I understand. But precision sockets and dual swipes were neven meant for multiple insertions. But yeah I am sure quality varies between sockets. I recently got a bunch of swipe sockets. They work ok for RAM on a 130XE , no problems at all, but they did feel rather flimsy. I've also insepcted "precision" sockets with a microscope and was pretty shocked by what I saw, the holes are ALL different and rather uneven looking......but this was also the case with ones I got from a decent supplier like RS. My guess is that if you really want good ones you have to pay for them. They are European and US brands like W+P, Preci-dip etc. Gonna order some of those to have a look at both machined precision and swipe ones from those brands . Michael about the Pic used on the switcher....will you explain how it works/what it does on your website ? (Gone over the entire website the last couple of days and read about everything....not only do you come up with amazing stuff, but you document it SO brilliantly....I wish other A8 suppliers would do it half as good............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted November 19, 2017 Share Posted November 19, 2017 Here's a small Win32 program to help keep track of Parts Ordering and Installation for DIY'elfers. PARTSLIST.PNGPartsCount.png 1088BOM.ZIP Double-Click in the columns of the main program to edit. Thankfully fir Mac users this works just fine with Wine...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted November 20, 2017 Author Share Posted November 20, 2017 Mayne a stupid question, why do they need to survive lots of inserians ? Because the 'present' 1088XEL board only allows for switching between PAL and NTSC modes via changing crystal X1, as well as the Antic/GTIA chips. And in my earlier tests I found some precision sockets only stayed tight on the smaller diameter crystal leads for maybe 2-3 crystal swaps. So to this end I have received and tested a sample of Digi-Key P/N: 952-2538-ND which suits the criteria I was looking for. I have updated the BOM (available at: http://ataribits.weebly.com/1088xel.html) to show the use of one of these for the crystal socket and also for the SIL 6 position socket for the UAV (the other half requires a 16 pin precision IC socket). So basically one of these precision socket strips will supply two board builds. Digi-Key P/N: 952-2538-ND My guess is that if you really want good ones you have to pay for them. They are European and US brands like W+P, Preci-dip etc. Yep that's why I purchased samples of different brands before settling on the one that I chose. Michael about the Pic used on the switcher....will you explain how it works/what it does on your website ? (Gone over the entire website the last couple of days and read about everything....not only do you come up with amazing stuff, but you document it SO brilliantly....I wish other A8 suppliers would do it half as good............ Thank you for the compliment on my documentation . I do strive to do a good job on that, and appreciate it when someone notices. The PIC chip in the Mouse Select Port board is being used to take the place of 3 main elements if it were built from discrete logic chips. Push button switch de-bounce signal conditioning A sequential counter Non-volatile back-up of logic state (counter position) And what does it do? each time the push button is pressed it steps the counter through 4 possible positions, and then resets to the beginning of the sequence to repeat. Mouse Port Select 1 (Green LED Color) OFF - No Mouse Mouse Port Select 2 (RED LED Color) OFF - No Mouse So the way this relates to the 1088XEL motherboard is that there is a built-in PS2-ST Mouse chip that has the ability to be directed to either Joystick 1 or Joystick 2, and simulates an ST Mouse being physically plugged into a joystick port. The on-board port select logic of the XEL's mouse chip is designed to work with a mechanical SPDT (Center OFF) switch. So in essence the output of the Mouse Port Select board is designed to mimic the actions of that physical switch which has 3 distinct possibilities, and due to its mechanical non-momentary nature, has memory when the system is powered off (state is restored upon power-up). The Mouse Port Select board gives us a convenient means to implement a panel mounted switch that better suits something like the Realan H80 case (takes advantage of the unused side mounted USB connector holes). Hope that answers your questions . - Michael 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted November 21, 2017 Author Share Posted November 21, 2017 Thx Ray! This program will be very useful. My DigiKey order arrived today with my 1088XEL & XEL-CF-][ components. Once my new soldering tips arrive then the fun begins. Need to take care of some other device updates with my U1MB (Candle version) and Sophia in the mean time. I would recommend dry fitting things like the U7 socket inside of U6's socket to see if there are any interference problems. Remember that all of the sockets associated with the Pokey's (U5 & U6) need to have the plastic center cross bars removed. I use a pair of very sharp lead trimmers, and then follow up with a razor blade to remove any flashing that remains. Have fun - Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Firedawg Posted November 21, 2017 Share Posted November 21, 2017 "I would recommend dry fitting things like the U7 socket inside of U6's socket to see if there are any interference problems. Remember that all of the sockets associated with the Pokey's (U5 & U6) need to have the plastic center cross bars removed. I use a pair of very sharp lead trimmers, and then follow up with a razor blade to remove any flashing that remains. Have fun - Michael" Will do Michael, and thanks for the reminder. I'm going over Jon's videos and your outline for the build to assure no steps missed. I'm building the Joy2PIC-STIK programmer and the XEL-CF-][ too, so a lot fun here once my new soldering tips arrive. I may start a 1088XEL thread post for us building our own to share info (especially any input from you Michael) and extra components as I have some extra boards for the XEL-CF-][. Thanks again, Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariNerd Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Heh. For what it's worth, i.materialise is currently offering free shipping on orders placed through Monday. It's one of the on-line 3D print services, which in Michael's build, he used to print his custom cart tunnel, for use with the Realan case he chose. I have one printed by them and can recommend them. Promo code: BlackFriday2017 Michael's 1088XEL page, with an order link, down below, on the right-hand side. http://ataribits.weebly.com/1088xel.html And a direct order link of the current design.: https://i.materialise.com/3dprint#modelId=8e7a22f5-61bd-4a29-8d97-08bfde8b418c&materialId=035f4772-da8a-400b-8be4-2dd344b28ddb&colourId=bba2bebb-8895-4049-aeb0-ab651cee2597&productTemplateId=71bf88f0-705d-419e-9ec2-b75bf37f32b6&scale=1&quantity=1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+LarryL Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Hi, I nearly finished my 1088XEL. Board soldering is complete, only waiting for Bryans UAV and the CVBS/S-Video header to arrive (takes a while from the US to Europe...) Is there any recommended test procedure? I like to avoid burning things... what I did up to now is: 1) leave all chips out, power up with 5V -> yellow LED is on checking correct voltage supply at J1, J3 and LM555 -> OK 2) inserting LM555, connecting power switch and power LED from Realan housing, switching on -> no smell, no smoke LED on housing is on, green LED on board is on -> OK 3) checking correct voltage supply on all IC sockets and headers -> all correct Anything else to test? Or just plugging in all chips, UAV and U1MB and crossing fingers? Cheers Michael 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 I ordered my complete BOM from MacRorie yesterday. I won't start building up my board until after Christmas - maybe after New Year's Eve, depending on how busy work and home becomes that week - but if no one else has started a general "1088XEL Build Thread" to discuss various aspects, assembly techniques, pitfalls and troubleshooting, I will be starting one. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted November 25, 2017 Author Share Posted November 25, 2017 Hi, I nearly finished my 1088XEL. Board soldering is complete, only waiting for Bryans UAV and the CVBS/S-Video header to arrive (takes a while from the US to Europe...) Is there any recommended test procedure? I like to avoid burning things... what I did up to now is: 1) leave all chips out, power up with 5V -> yellow LED is on checking correct voltage supply at J1, J3 and LM555 -> OK 2) inserting LM555, connecting power switch and power LED from Realan housing, switching on -> no smell, no smoke LED on housing is on, green LED on board is on -> OK 3) checking correct voltage supply on all IC sockets and headers -> all correct Anything else to test? Or just plugging in all chips, UAV and U1MB and crossing finger? Cheers Michael There is no official test procedure, although the tests you performed and the order there of is the same as I do when building a board. And it looks like everything passed those preliminary checks. At this point in time you are safe to plug in all of the remaining IC chips, assuming you have already pre-programmed PIC's (TK-II, Mousetari, and V-Gate). Minimally you need a working TK-II since it handles system reset, and a programmed V-Gate since that controls video output. Good luck - Michael 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+LarryL Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 There is no official test procedure, although the tests you performed and the order there of is the same as I do when building a board. And it looks like everything passed those preliminary checks. At this point in time you are safe to plug in all of the remaining IC chips, assuming you have already pre-programmed PIC's (TK-II, Mousetari, and V-Gate). Minimally you need a working TK-II since it handles system reset, and a programmed V-Gate since that controls video output. Good luck - Michael Thanks for the feedback.As soon as I have the UAV I will continue. Assume that without UAV or will not work Cheers Michael 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brentarian Posted November 25, 2017 Share Posted November 25, 2017 Thanks for the feedback. As soon as I have the UAV I will continue. Assume that without UAV or will not work Cheers Michael Unless you have a Sophia or VBXE. ? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 SparkFun is having a sale today on the BOB-12731 USB to Serial Breakout - FT232RL that the 1088XEL uses for the built-in SIO2PC-USB. $14.95 $11.96 https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12731 --- and --- Raspberry Pi GPIO Tall Header - 2x20 (PRT-14017) used for mounting U1MB in the 1088XEL. $1.95 $1.56 https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14017 If you can muster up a group buy, everything over $75 ships free in the US. - Michael 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 The final version of the Mouse Select boards arrived a few days ago. Here's one assembled and mounted inside a Realan H80 case. And what it looks like from the outside. Still deciding on the specific mounting hardware, since it sticks out just a tiny bit farther than I like, but I'll try to post the schematic and gerber files pretty soon. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 (edited) XEL LED Status Panel arrived. The following dimensional data has been provided that reflects the current board as of 12/8/2017. I'll also be getting the manufacturing data posted for this very soon. Edited December 10, 2017 by mytekcontrols 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dropcheck Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 XEL LED Status Panel arrived. XELstatus_top.JPG XELstatus_btm.JPG XELstatus_mounted.JPG I'll also be getting the manufacturing data posted for this very soon. Wow! How did you do the mounting hole inserts? Looks like stainless steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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