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New power supplies for the ColecoVision?

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Heads up, I got notice from Console5 that once these are released, Console5 will be a source for US sales to get these. No ETA on when they will have them, but they did PM me about it to let me know.

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Heads up, I got notice from Console5 that once these are released, Console5 will be a source for US sales to get these. No ETA on when they will have them, but they did PM me about it to let me know.

 

Since they are a business are they going to raise the price ?

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Since they are a business are they going to raise the price ?

 

I don't the know answer to that specifically. But I would imagine they would buy them in bulk for a lesser price per unit than it would cost the average person to buy just one for themselves.

 

As an example, I don't know what the McWill LCD kits cost an individual if they purchase directly from McWill + Shipping, but Console5 sells the kits at $119 + shipping. But then I know with the shipping it will be tracked and I will receive it in about 3 days on average.

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Heads up, I got notice from Console5 that once these are released, Console5 will be a source for US sales to get these. No ETA on when they will have them, but they did PM me about it to let me know.

:thumbsup:

 

https://console5.com/store/colecoplug-usb-power-supply-for-the-colecovision.html/

 

 

 

post-18-0-10773600-1539485545_thumb.png

 

 

 

I'm sure the current $0.01 list price will change after the product is in stock. :-D

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I just ordered one as well but, alas, it may ultimately prove to be somewhat useless (to me that is) if the ColecoVision Phoenix Kickstarter funds (I am on that list too) http://kck.st/2ynKCVn

 

I'm thinking it may be the answer to powering the roller controller, since the Phoenix won't have an AC connection for it, but the plug will still fit the Roller Controller, but I'm wondering if the Roller Controller cord end would need some kind of blanking plug on the side with the metal plug tines. Maybe you could just plug one into each side of the cord end.

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Yes, I can confirm Console5 plans to stock them. Price should be roughly the same, as they get a discount from me.

 

I've never thought to ask this before. Has this adapter been shown to work with the Roller Controller?

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Okay, CE/FCC tests have been done today and the adapter passed :D

 

So it's time to prepare the production (finally :D)

 

Just a quick question:

Do you think an Indiegogo / Kickstarter would be good (gives a better coverage) or should I just setup a preorder myself and start the production?

I am glad you now have this USB ColecoVision power converter on your website with a possible release date as early as December 2018.

 

Since in a prior post you mentioned that this ColecoVision USB power converter passed safety certification for Europe (CE) and also received passing results for FCC certification, you might want to list the CE and FCC logo with certification numbers on your website. Mentioning CE and FCC safety certification well most likely increase the amount of people that well pre-order this product.

 

I see people quoting a final delivery price of around $42 for this USB power converter, then if one purchases a high quality USB UL listed power adapter for $10, this would place the total cost around $52 or $55. Around $55 is fine since going with a PC power supply converted to the ColecoVision would have most likely have cost $100-$120. I like the size of the pictures of your USB power converter. What type of warranty are you offering on the USB power converter?

Edited by HDTV1080P

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There are no certification numbers.

CE is a self-certification which never had any numbers and for FCC, the device falls under the category FCC DoC (Part 15), so it's a self-certification as well.

 

We'll give a 2 years warranty, either a fix or refund.

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Well I just received my ColUSB in the mail today and immediately tried it out with a SAMSUNG power supply. No luck... it did not work at all. I tried a couple different Type C cables and USB power supplies but each time it appeared as if something was turned on but the screen was still all scrambled. Then I tried a USB charging port that specifically has a 2.4A charging port and BOOM... it finally worked! The colors are now all there on the games where the old power supply had many color and video glitches. Not sure why a standard SAMSUNG USB Power Supply doesn't send enough power but at least I don't have to wait for a new one. I'll keep trying different plugs until I find one that works instead of using the multi-port charging base.

 

EDIT: Just tried with the Power Supply that came with my Galaxy S9 and it works too! Problem solved. I think the old one may have been from an S5.

Edited by malarrya

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If the screen is scrambled, the power supply either doesn't provide enough voltage (5V are needed) or power (at least 2A).

Edited by EvilDragon17
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Got it the other day, tried it out with non-standard Galaxy S9 charger and it worked perfectly with regular Colecovision. Later tried it with Super Game Module and then picture is scrambled and no sound. Will have to purchase a official charger :-D

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Try a different USB-C cable or charger.

Some users here have tested it with a SuperGameModule and it worked. :)

 

Mine worked great with the SGM plugged in.

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If the screen is scrambled, the power supply either doesn't provide enough voltage (5V are needed) or power (at least 2A).

Will a 5V 3A work any better than a 5V 2.4A PS? Is there a limit that should not be exceeded? I ask this because I still have occasional image/color glitches with the SAMSUNG S9 charger and there are 5V 3A chargers available on Amazon.

BTW, thanks for creating this amazing little product and all your help.

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There is no "too much" when it comes to A :)

2A on a power supply simply means that it can provide a MAX of 2A.

If a device only needs 1A, then that is fine, but if it needs 3A, it wont be enough and the voltage drops down.

 

So yes, the higher the better.

 

The Colecovision has graphical issues if the voltage drops below 4.7V.

Thats the reason it can glitch if the power switch oxidates: it adds resistance and therefore lowers the voltage.

 

Now, most USB power supplies provide 5V. Some even provide 5.2 or 5.3V, which is good.

Why? Well, the first voltage drop is the cable.

The cheaper cables have a high inner resistor (1 Ohm or higher per Meter).

Which means: Voltage can drop by 0.3V already, when its running with 2A.

Use a 2m cable and it already drops by 0.6V.

 

The adaptor tries to compensate it as good as possible, but at one point the loss is too high.

 

So, for best results:

 

1. The power supply should provide a stable 5V at 2A (some already drop the voltage when being used with 2A)

2. The cable should have as little inner resistor as possible. And the shorter, the better.

3. Of course, contacts and power switch of the Coleco should be clean, otherwise the voltage drops even more.

 

If you have a bunch of cables and power supplies at home, test and mix them.You might find the best combination :)

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This really needs a sticky, because, if like myself, you have a PSU that died or didn't come with your ebay purchase then you are totally screwed.

 

My only option, for now, is to either buy a 74942 Canadian brick PSU and a Step-down converter. Problems then arise such as costs for both the PSU, shipping, and step-down converter. And, the risk of the converter burning out due to heat from only short usage.

 

Or, build a internal modded PSU. I lack soldering and electronic skills so that is out of the question.

 

What were Coleco thinking ? The Atari 2600, 5200, 7800, Intellivision, NES, etc.. all had pretty-much standard PSUs which could be replaced with modern equivalents. The TI-99/4a, is another machine with the stupid same connector as the Colecovision, but is also completely different regarding volts and amps. I ended up buying 3 of the things just to get a working TI with a PSU. So now I have 3 TI's with one PSU.

The Colecovision is probably the worst built game system ever. If they could save a penny in production, they did it.

 

While it is only a guess, I am guessing they had some cheap chips that used weird voltages (IIRC, the video RAM uses 9V)

 

I was having endless problems until I put a new power switch in it. I have no idea why these switches are so bad. The 2600 use the same exact type of switches.

A couple of years ago I removed the switch, took it apart and cleaned it thoroughly and within a few days the graphics glitches came back. Even when it was working, the screen was never good and was always fuzzy. After I replaced that goofy switch with a single switch double throw switch from radio-shack, it was fine. It's a shame you can't get them anymore with radioshack being gone.

 

Transformers pretty much never go, though. There are radios from the 30s and 40s whose transformers are still fine despite many thousands of hours of use. Everything else in that power brick should be just standard stuff you can order from mouser.

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Will a 5V 3A work any better than a 5V 2.4A PS? Is there a limit that should not be exceeded? I ask this because I still have occasional image/color glitches with the SAMSUNG S9 charger and there are 5V 3A chargers available on Amazon.

BTW, thanks for creating this amazing little product and all your help.

 

I don't know exactly how these usb power supplies work, but if it says 2.4A and it has two USB ports, is that a 1.2A limit on each port or can it handle 2.4A through a single port with one USB device plugged in (or 1.5A for each port at 3A)? So, I ended up getting this single port 2.4A (Seems good, so hopefully it is a good enough brand my house won't burn down).

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KWY703I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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