Cap and VR kit specifications & replacement locations for the 2600 variants

[mojoatomic]

For 6 switch units to include the "Heavy" & "Light" sixer six switch units...

Heavy Sixer

Switchboard:

Replace C103 & C104 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there.

Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap

Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator

Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap

Mainboard:

Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap

Light Sixer

Switchboard:

Replace C103 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there.

Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap

Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator

Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap

Mainboard:

Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap

4 switch units - both woody and Vader variants rev 1-16

Replace C241 & 242 with a .1uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. Versions 8's will almost always have ceramic disk... replace them with mylar.

Replace C243 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap

Replace A203 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator

Replace C201 & C214 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap

IF you have a 4 switch unit AND your board revision level is LESS THAN version 16, install the 820ohm resistor between pins 6 & 9 of the TIA chip on the SOLDER SIDE of the circuit board.

Edited February 13, 2017 by mojoatomic

[+xucaen]

[mojoatomic]

 

Glad you like it, hope it helps folks out :-)

[+save2600]

I have to do my H6'er soon... colors no longer accurate and won't stay dialed in. Of course there has to be *one* cap under the heavy shielding that needs to be replaced!

 

(would have been too easy had everything been accessible on the switch panel)

[mojoatomic]

I have to do my H6'er soon... colors no longer accurate and won't stay dialed in. Of course there has to be *one* cap under the heavy shielding that needs to be replaced!

 

(would have been too easy had everything been accessible on the switch panel)

Won't be so bad, just a few screws on the the H6'er

 

Are your colors floating around when the unit warms up? Is there increased static after awhile, or just wonky colors?

[+save2600]

No static and no wavy/rainbow/floaty color stuff going on. No funky RF stuff at all, tint slightly off is the thing and no amount of trying to dial in, even after leaving on for hours helps. Using the first screen on the color bar generator confirms what's going on that way - phase shifting. Have a 4-switch that exhibited the same symptom, but changed its caps and after warm up, colors now stabilize.

[mojoatomic]

No static and no wavy/rainbow/floaty color stuff going on. No funky RF stuff at all, tint slightly off is the thing and no amount of trying to dial in, even after leaving on for hours helps. Using the first screen on the color bar generator confirms what's going on that way - phase shifting. Have a 4-switch that exhibited the same symptom, but changed its caps and after warm up, colors now stabilize.

You beat me to it - that would be my guess a s well :-)

[Hank Rearden]

For 6 switch units to include the "Heavy" & "Light" sixer six switch units...

 

Heavy Sixer

Switchboard:

Replace C103 & C104 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there.

Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap

Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator

Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap

 

Mainboard:

Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap

 

Light Sixer

Switchboard:

Replace C103 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there.

Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap

Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator

Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap

 

Mainboard:

Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap

 

4 switch units - both woody and Vader variants rev 1-16

Replace C241 & 242 with a .1uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. Versions 8's will almost always have ceramic disk... replace them with mylar.

Replace C243 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap

Replace A203 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator

Replace C201 & C214 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap

 

IF you have a 4 switch unit AND your board revision level is LESS THAN version 16, install the 820ohm resistor between pins 6 & 9 of the TIA chip on the SOLDER SIDE of the circuit board.

 

 

 

 

 

Anyone have this in a kit? I have 2 units that could use updates. Check my RF thread.

[mojoatomic]

Anyone have this in a kit? I have 2 units that could use updates. Check my RF thread.

This Jackass has some... :-)

[Hank Rearden]

This Jackass has some... :-)

Not a nice way to talk about yourself. Lol

 

How much for a kit.

[mojoatomic]

Not a nice way to talk about yourself. Lol

 

How much for a kit.

 

Pm sent

[Hank Rearden]

Just ordered 2 kits!

[Hank Rearden]

Is it possible to get pics of exactly where to place the resistor on the chip?

 

Just want to make sure I get it right. Thanks.

[mojoatomic]

Is it possible to get pics of exactly where to place the resistor on the chip?

 

Just want to make sure I get it right. Thanks.

 

Sure, I'll take a pic when I get back home -

[mojoatomic]

 

Ok, just installed on a version 8 board... pin 6 & 9 of the TIA

[mojoatomic]

Before -

 

 

After -

 

Edited February 19, 2017 by mojoatomic

[mojoatomic]

Before video -

 

after video -

Edited February 19, 2017 by mojoatomic

[Hank Rearden]

If I still have similar picture quality issues after replacing all of the capacitors and installed the resistor, can it be anything other than the old RF cable preventing me from getting a nice clean picture? Is there anything else I can try other than eliminating RF altogether and installing the composite upgrade kit I have?

[mojoatomic]

If I still have similar picture quality issues after replacing all of the capacitors and installed the resistor, can it be anything other than the old RF cable preventing me from getting a nice clean picture? Is there anything else I can try other than eliminating RF altogether and installing the composite upgrade kit I have?

Make sure to also install the Voltage Regulator. If there are still issue, a RF cable replacement would be in order. Also, it is possible to do an RF adjustment, but only after you've qualified or eliminated the RF cable as the culprit.

[Hank Rearden]

The voltage regulator was replaced. Can I just trim down another RCA cable or should I go online and search for one? Best Electronics I think is sold out.

[Hank Rearden]

The voltage regulator was replaced. Can I just trim down another RCA cable or should I go online and search for one? Best Electronics I think is sold out.

[Hank Rearden]

The voltage regulator was replaced. Can I just trim down another RCA cable or should I go online and search for one? Best Electronics I think is sold out.

[mojoatomic]

Personally, I would make my own cable from RG6 and a crimp or compression type F type connector.

[Hank Rearden]

What is the correct connector for inside the Atari? They have that short stubby one inside. Can you buy them at Lowe's?

[mojoatomic]

Unfortunately - no :-(

 

You have 3 options...

 

trim the nose of a regular RCA connector - this actually works fine

 

Desolder and reuse the original stubby RF/RCA connector from your original cable

 

Buy new stubby solder type coax style RCA connectors - I "Think" these are the ones...