mojoatomic Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) For 6 switch units to include the "Heavy" & "Light" sixer six switch units... Heavy Sixer Switchboard: Replace C103 & C104 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap Mainboard: Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap Light Sixer Switchboard: Replace C103 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap Mainboard: Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap 4 switch units - both woody and Vader variants rev 1-16 Replace C241 & 242 with a .1uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. Versions 8's will almost always have ceramic disk... replace them with mylar. Replace C243 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap Replace A203 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator Replace C201 & C214 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap IF you have a 4 switch unit AND your board revision level is LESS THAN version 16, install the 820ohm resistor between pins 6 & 9 of the TIA chip on the SOLDER SIDE of the circuit board. Edited February 13, 2017 by mojoatomic 10 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+xucaen Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 Glad you like it, hope it helps folks out :-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+save2600 Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 I have to do my H6'er soon... colors no longer accurate and won't stay dialed in. Of course there has to be *one* cap under the heavy shielding that needs to be replaced! (would have been too easy had everything been accessible on the switch panel) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 I have to do my H6'er soon... colors no longer accurate and won't stay dialed in. Of course there has to be *one* cap under the heavy shielding that needs to be replaced! (would have been too easy had everything been accessible on the switch panel) Won't be so bad, just a few screws on the the H6'er Are your colors floating around when the unit warms up? Is there increased static after awhile, or just wonky colors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+save2600 Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 No static and no wavy/rainbow/floaty color stuff going on. No funky RF stuff at all, tint slightly off is the thing and no amount of trying to dial in, even after leaving on for hours helps. Using the first screen on the color bar generator confirms what's going on that way - phase shifting. Have a 4-switch that exhibited the same symptom, but changed its caps and after warm up, colors now stabilize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 No static and no wavy/rainbow/floaty color stuff going on. No funky RF stuff at all, tint slightly off is the thing and no amount of trying to dial in, even after leaving on for hours helps. Using the first screen on the color bar generator confirms what's going on that way - phase shifting. Have a 4-switch that exhibited the same symptom, but changed its caps and after warm up, colors now stabilize. You beat me to it - that would be my guess a s well :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Rearden Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 For 6 switch units to include the "Heavy" & "Light" sixer six switch units... Heavy Sixer Switchboard: Replace C103 & C104 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap Mainboard: Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap Light Sixer Switchboard: Replace C103 with a .22uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. Replace C106 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap Replace A101 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator Replace C105 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap Mainboard: Replace C201 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap 4 switch units - both woody and Vader variants rev 1-16 Replace C241 & 242 with a .1uf 100v or better mylar cap - regardless of what you find there. Versions 8's will almost always have ceramic disk... replace them with mylar. Replace C243 with a 2200uf 16v or higher electrolytic cap Replace A203 with a 7805 Voltage Regulator Replace C201 & C214 with a 4.7uf 35v or higher electrolytic cap IF you have a 4 switch unit AND your board revision level is LESS THAN version 16, install the 820ohm resistor between pins 6 & 9 of the TIA chip on the SOLDER SIDE of the circuit board. Anyone have this in a kit? I have 2 units that could use updates. Check my RF thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 Anyone have this in a kit? I have 2 units that could use updates. Check my RF thread. This Jackass has some... :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Rearden Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 This Jackass has some... :-) Not a nice way to talk about yourself. Lol How much for a kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 Not a nice way to talk about yourself. Lol How much for a kit. Pm sent 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Rearden Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Just ordered 2 kits! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Rearden Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Is it possible to get pics of exactly where to place the resistor on the chip? Just want to make sure I get it right. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Is it possible to get pics of exactly where to place the resistor on the chip? Just want to make sure I get it right. Thanks. Sure, I'll take a pic when I get back home - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Ok, just installed on a version 8 board... pin 6 & 9 of the TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 (edited) Before - After - Edited February 19, 2017 by mojoatomic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 (edited) Before video - after video - Edited February 19, 2017 by mojoatomic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Rearden Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 If I still have similar picture quality issues after replacing all of the capacitors and installed the resistor, can it be anything other than the old RF cable preventing me from getting a nice clean picture? Is there anything else I can try other than eliminating RF altogether and installing the composite upgrade kit I have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 If I still have similar picture quality issues after replacing all of the capacitors and installed the resistor, can it be anything other than the old RF cable preventing me from getting a nice clean picture? Is there anything else I can try other than eliminating RF altogether and installing the composite upgrade kit I have? Make sure to also install the Voltage Regulator. If there are still issue, a RF cable replacement would be in order. Also, it is possible to do an RF adjustment, but only after you've qualified or eliminated the RF cable as the culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Rearden Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 The voltage regulator was replaced. Can I just trim down another RCA cable or should I go online and search for one? Best Electronics I think is sold out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Rearden Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 The voltage regulator was replaced. Can I just trim down another RCA cable or should I go online and search for one? Best Electronics I think is sold out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Rearden Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 The voltage regulator was replaced. Can I just trim down another RCA cable or should I go online and search for one? Best Electronics I think is sold out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Personally, I would make my own cable from RG6 and a crimp or compression type F type connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hank Rearden Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 What is the correct connector for inside the Atari? They have that short stubby one inside. Can you buy them at Lowe's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mojoatomic Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Unfortunately - no :-( You have 3 options... trim the nose of a regular RCA connector - this actually works fine Desolder and reuse the original stubby RF/RCA connector from your original cable Buy new stubby solder type coax style RCA connectors - I "Think" these are the ones... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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