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eatenbygrues

More accurate switch replacement?

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I think everyone is well aware how finicky the power switches on the coleco can be, and that there are numerous ways to address the problem. I have seen the popular mod where people replace the switch with a 'rocker' type switch, but I feel like there has to be a DPDT slide switch that is closer to what the Coleco originally used. Just some cursory searches on ebay I have found:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GC-Electronics-35-222-BU-DPDT-Slide-Switch-ON-ON-Double-Pole-Double-Thr-10-pcs-/112231680929?hash=item1a21878ba1:g:nboAAOSwImRYSsCJ

 

Or a more general search:

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xdpdt+slide+switch.TRS0&_nkw=dpdt+slide+switch&_sacat=0

 

Has anyone had any luck with sourcing something like this (either through ebay or aliexpress)?

Edited by eatenbygrues

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Personally I have found refurbishing the existing switch to be very effective and have yet to have an issue with any of the switches I have refurbished so far - they work like new. There is an excellent guide here on what to do.

Edited by Ikrananka
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Just to add to the guide, When I do this, I don't attempt to squeeze the y part together. It's much simpler to bend it out sideways/perpendicular then to get it realigned later.

 

As a matter of fact, All I ever unsolder is one of the outside ground points bend the 4 "y"'s out and the switch can be disassembled and cleaned very easily.

Much less soldering / desoldering.

 

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Yes refurbish, don't replace. I've done over 600 switches over a 7 year period and never a single repeat problem.

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Using that pdf posted earlier in the thread I went ahead and refurbished my power switch. It made a substantial difference in the graphical quality (no more weird issues) that being said I did mess up my first try putting it back together (I didn't solder down one of the large mounting brackets properly and so when you pushed on the switch it lifted up and you wouldn't get power at all). Granted I'm still occasionally getting some weirdness like every 15 or so tries such as Spyhunter making noises at the title screen (often times a reboot will fix this). Is that kind of stuff just unavoidable with the coleco (I mean it is 35 years old) or did I mess something up with the refurbish? (maybe it needs more grease?). So some quick questions:

 

  1. When cleaning the internals is it ok to use something like brasso? I found that it cleans copper contacts very well, though it is abrasive.
  2. How tightly should the top of the case be pushing down on the switch? Should it move freely or is it better to have some resistance?
  3. I know some people like to pad the switch with paper towels. Does that sort of thing still help even after refurbishing the switch?

Anyway, thanks for the help!

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Ah ignore my previous post. I just figured out my issue. I didn't fasten the top/bottom halves of the switch together properly. I desoldered, fixed the switch (added a bit more grease), re-soldered it down and now everything works.

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Grease is what likely causes the issue in the first place. 40 year old technology..

 

It holds onto dirt and dust and causes poor connection.

Clean the contacts really well with Iso-alcohol, then add a contact stabilizer...

It prevents oxidation and "enhances" connection, and doesnt attract dirt dust etc.

 

This stuff is very good and used in aero-space industry... Deox-it makes some good stuff too.

http://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/stabilant22a.htm

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Ah thanks for the tip. I'm already using de-oxit actually, it's great stuff.

 

So I pretty sure my switch is no longer the issue and I'm running into kind of a strange issue. There are certain titles that have to be 'rebooted' before they work correctly. For instance I'll put the game in, and I'll get either

  1. The copyright screen with noise (Pepper II, Congo Bongo, Spyhunter)
  2. static (as if it isn't powered on at all) (Frenzy, Space Fury) simply hitting the reset button will fix it. I don't even have to touch the power switch.

 

As soon as I hit the reboot button (or cycle the power switch again) it works fine. I can keep reseting it and it keeps working, it's just when I first insert the cartridge.The vast bulk of my games work with no issues. I have cleaned these games fairly thoroughly and yet I keep running into this. Any ideas?

 

- thanks.

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This sounds like the problem I have. When I insert some games I get a high pitched sound at the title screen. When I hit RESET all is fixed. Other titles have a blank screen when inserted and turned on. When I hit RESET the title screen comes up and all is good. Is it my cap as well?

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I got myself a Yurkie Vision a couple of years ago with the pause button, new power switch, strait cords and a VGA hook up. Love it and I also wanted the 12 second start up screen left in. This Coleco works perfect. Even with the 1st Gen SGM plugged in.

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Technically, per the ColecoVision manual, switching the power on, followed by pressing the Reset button, is the "official" way to start up a cartridge for the console:

 

post-18-0-82240700-1491410215_thumb.png

...

2. Slide the POWER SWITCH on the CONSOLE unit to "ON".

 

3. Press the RESET BUTTON. The title screen will appear on your T.V. Wait for the SKILL/PLAYER OPTION screen to appear. Adjust your volume, fine tuning and color controls to a pleasing level.

...

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Hmm, very interesting. So the cartridges that I have to press reset for the title screen to show maybe/probably were programed to function that way.

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Refurbishing the original is great, until you drop a contact and it gets crushed before you find it. I got it close and it mostly works but a replacement would be ideal

 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

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I like to remove the switch as a whole, and clean in an ultrasonic bath then spray down with deoxit. A small bit of dielectric on a toothpick just to lube the contacts and its done. I dont disassemble the switch, dont want to stress the pinch points. This has worked very well so far.

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