Ultimate 1MB 800XL final verification

[scotty]

So...... I have to go to bed in a bit to get up at 2AM for an EARLY day at work tomorrow, so I am posting this now in hopes of having some answers when I wake up. If all goes well, my 800XL goes under the knife for surgery tomorrow afternoon to have Lotharek's Ultimate 1MB Revised 2K14 installed. The following picture is of my personal motherboard. From what I can gather from pics on the net, this is the 4 solder points to connect correct? The one I have the most trouble seeing from pics posted is the PHI2. Am I correct that it get soldered to the right leg of R20? Are the other 3 spots correct for the 2K14 revision? I know that the 4 wires can be soldered to the CPU itself, but I read other places that said it was not a good idea. What is the disadvantage?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Edited May 2, 2017 by scotty

[scotty]

Is there an advantage to NOT putting the RF shielding back on once the upgrade is done??

[+DrVenkman]

So...... I have to go to bed in a bit to get up at 2AM for an EARLY day at work tomorrow, so I am posting this now in hopes of having some answers when I wake up. If all goes well, my 800XL goes under the knife for surgery tomorrow afternoon to have Lotharek's Ultimate 1MB Revised 2K14 installed. The following picture is of my personal motherboard. From what I can gather from pics on the net, this is the 4 solder points to connect correct? The one I have the most trouble seeing from pics posted is the PHI2. Am I correct that it get soldered to the right leg of R20? Are the other 3 spots correct for the 2K14 revision? I know that the 4 wires can be soldered to the CPU itself, but I read other places that said it was not a good idea. What is the disadvantage?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

At first glance, those look to be the correct vias to use, as well as the correct resistor. And yes, you use the right-most leg. I don't recall the specific signals off-hand without pulling out the annotated photos I used at the time, which I can do in the next while if no one beats me to it.

 

The advantage to not installing the RF shield is that it ensures you have enough room under the keyboard and upper case housing without compressing anything too tightly once the U1MB is installed. So long as you're not worried about causing interference with nearby analog RF TV's, there's no need to reinstall. 800XL upper shields also come in two shapes - one much sharper-angled than the other. It may not even be possible to reinstall the shield properly if that's the kind your system has. At any rate, I've left it off mine without any ill-effect in the last almost 2 years.

 

EDITED TO ADD: Just compared to my post-installation photos I took and those are the correct solder points and the correct signals.

[scotty]

Trouble sleeping.... Any way to mount this thing in the 800XL without drilling a hole? Surprisingly there was 1 long screw, 1 stand off, and 3 washers included in the package. How did you guys mount this thing without drilling?

[+DrVenkman]

Trouble sleeping.... Any way to mount this thing in the 800XL without drilling a hole? Surprisingly there was 1 long screw, 1 stand off, and 3 washers included in the package. How did you guys mount this thing without drilling?

 

I used one post, mounted through an existing hole in the board back behind the SIO connector. With the RF shield removed, that hole is the perfect place. The board is lightweight and I've found a single post is sufficient to support the board above the removed OS chip with the ribbon cable folded carefully underneath.

 

[scotty]

Thanks for the info. I did a test fit last night of that same idea, before waking up this morning and reading your post. I was just worried with the U1MB sliding around, but with the ribbon tucked under that should be just enough to keep it in place. Thanks again.

[flashjazzcat]

It should be mounted using two screws, really. The fact the board is supplied with only half the required number of screws and standoffs is a constant annoyance.

[+DrVenkman]

Well, I'm not going to debate the matter except to say that mine has been more mounted the same way for going on two years without a problem. Also, and perhaps important to people averse to drilling through their vintage boards, one post obviates that as well. Certainly if you expect to ship assembled machines or transport them further than across the room a second post would be useful but for sitting on a desk I have found that is unnecessary.

[+orpheuswaking]

I currently have mine with one post only, but the orientation is the other way, it uses the same hole on the motherboard but the opposite hole on the u1MB and it goes horizontally rather than vertically if you look at the long edge. Fits well... The other way interferes with my dual pokey mod.

[flashjazzcat]

Well, the way I look at it, there are two mounting holes and the boards originally shipped with two pylons, two screws, two washers and two nuts. Whether one uses both is perhaps down to personal choice, but to implicitly advocate (or even prescribe) mounting on one pillar by omitting fifty per cent of the mounting components included in the original kit seems a bit... well, let's say odd. To do what I consider a proper job (regardless of whether the machine is destined for shipping or not), I have to keep restocking on screws and pylons, not to mention boxed IDC housings. Superb product thought U1MB is, for a few extra cents it could be perfect.

[Marius]

I have two of these Lotharek boards. I received them without screws or stands which I found very odd.

 

My advice would also be: use two screws and stands. It can be done with one yes. But did you ever feel how much tension there is on these connectors? All that is hold by that single hole on that pretty thin pcb.

 

The chance the pcb will slightly bend is there and that might eventually lead to issues.

[+remowilliams]

Okay so I'm not the only person who mounted the U1MBs with one post

 

[+orpheuswaking]

FJC I don't disagree, I have an original board from Candle and it absolutely came with two screws and pylons. I should probably use the second one, but I'm not convinced the machine it is in is permanent so I wont be drilling any holes in the motherboard. I should stock up on some screws and pylons as I will likely be ordering some more from lotharek and I am sure they will come without.

 

Remo that looks like an original Candle board, that's exactly how I have mine installed.

[+Bikerbob]

Wow, in mine I got no standoffs at all. I have mine infact not "mounted" at all. I have foam under the cover to put slight pressure on the board which sits on its own ribbon cable.. SO nothing can touch anything.. and unless I throw it across the room the board will not move as the foam keeps it in place.

 

James

[ivop]

Wow, in mine I got no standoffs at all. I have mine in fact not "mounted" at all. I have foam under the cover to put slight pressure on the board which sits on its own ribbon cable.. SO nothing can touch anything.. and unless I throw it across the room the board will not move as the foam keeps it in place.

 

You're not alone in this. I have it lying loose on the motherboard, but wrapped in foam

[+remowilliams]

Hmm.. I don't think I'd go standoff-less, but I do have a piece of foam under there for compression. Do I get some extra points?

[_The Doctor__]

countless numbers of noise issues both in the Atari's video output as well as how well add on devices that 'act' up have been solved by putting the mass shield back on. I have learned since 1979 to preserve the mass shield as much as possible.... right on down to the shield in low humidity higher static situations were boards have been protected by the shield.... no zapp no weird behavior that developed from the chips getting 'marginal".... that little jumper from the shield to the keyboard and the cartridge door... side by side seen static fly, shield on jumpers touching fine.... no shield no jumpers, machine gets zapped or wonky.... what can you say... it's always 'fine' till it isn't!

 

mount the board with stand offs to the shield... no drilling of board needed... no foam needed.... perfectly secured... and better ventilation !

 

win win win win it's a win all the way around

Edited May 3, 2017 by _The Doctor__

[+mytek]

Wow that's weird my U1MB plugged right into my motherboard, no soldering, no ribbon cables, or mounting hardware required.

 

 

Opps my mistake... you guys are talking about installation in an OLD ancient Atari . Carry on.

 

- Michael

[+remowilliams]

Opps my mistake... you guys are talking about installation in an OLD ancient Atari . Carry on.

Oooooh! You tease!

[+kheller2]

I have an original black board Candle u1mb with all original firmware. I know there were a few threads discussing how to properly flash this to the latest firmware levels. Anyone have the steps?

 

Thanks,

 

Karl

[+Stephen]

I have an original black board Candle u1mb with all original firmware. I know there were a few threads discussing how to properly flash this to the latest firmware levels. Anyone have the steps?

 

Thanks,

 

Karl

I don't have links handy, but 1st thing you will have to do, is update the CPLD code. This requires a Xilinx programmer, and is done via JTAG port. The candle U1MB boards use the fine 2mm pitch, not the standard .1" (2.54mm) JTAG connector. You have 2 options for this. There's a cheap parallel port interface, and a USB version. If memory serves, the file for uploading the CPLD is a ".jed" file. The board will need installed in the Atari and powered ON while doing this update.

 

Once this has been done, you can then either use fjc's uFlash programmer, or if you have an external USB programmer which can handle the flash chip, remove it from the U1MB and program externally.

[+kheller2]

Found some docs here: #64

 

And at the end of the thread there isa v3 jed file.

I'm assuming the TL866A (ICSP) can't do this and will need Xilinx.

[flashjazzcat]

Yes, you'll need a Xilinx JTAG cable.