Got two painful shocks from my 800XL RF cable...

[CZroe]

I was cleaning and troubleshooting my keyboard last night and had to reconnect my RF cable several times when running the computer back and forth between the monitor and my workspace. My "monitor" is a Sony KV-34HS510, which is a late 4:3 HDTV CRT with all the works... including an automatic degauss function when powered on.

 

I hit the TV's power button before grabbing the power and RF cables. The degauss kicked in while I was still getting the power connector lined up and INSTANTLY hit me with a shock through the RF cable. "Yowch!" It was enough to make me yelp.

 

Anyway, I assumed that it only carried this electric potential while the degauss was active so next time I patiently waited for it to settle down before grabbing the RF cable... only to be zapped again with a shock that felt almost every bit as strong.

 

I can't imagine that this would be good for the 800XL if it were plugged in and discharging into the PC. Is there any kind of recommendation against using it with televisions that have degaussing functions? It sure seems like it could potentially cause damage (so much for the FCC!). A lot of dedicated PC CRT monitors have degaussing functions too (notably, most Trinitron tubes), though few from the era would.

[R.Cade]

I've never experienced or heard that before... I would suspect there is something wrong with the grounding in your TV or home electric?

[Rybags]

Probably a ground loop. Not sure about the US but I can't recall seeing any Atari PSU that's grounded though they're all classed as double-insulated so don't have to be.

I had one with a setup I had in the past - I used to have everything somehow connected, computer had TV-out going to composite in for the TV as well as audio going to an amplifier. It's often cheap-arsed equipment that's at fault and I think in my case it might have been the DVD recorder.

 

That said, an appliance being grounded or not isn't necessarily going to cause or cure it, but supposedly having everything on the same power point or circuit can help. The other thing is to avoid plug/unplug operations when stuff's powered on if a ground loop is occurring.

 

These days though I don't have the computer hooked to the TV - I play videos over wifi with my Bluray player and phone/tablets doing DLNA access with server software on the PC.

Edited May 9, 2017 by Rybags

[Bryan]

If I understand correctly, you're shocked by touching the RF cable after it's connected to the TV? Most TVs have 2 prong AC plugs and the chassis floats to whatever potentials are on the inputs. Is something else plugged into the TV?

 

If you were shocked by a cable connected to the A8, is there anything grounded connected to the computer? I'd have to see the exact scenario, but somehow you're either grounding energized equipment or you have some kind of isolation failure in a power supply.

 

Degaussing is generally not a problem so I think that was just a fluke.

[Keatah]

Cool! You could use a Fluke to root it out.

[CZroe]

The Atari 800XL itself wasn't directly involved. Yes, I was holding both the AC and the RF cables the first time while I attempted to plug the console in, but the 2nd time was just the RF cable running to the TV (not connected to the 800XL). The TV does not have a ground plug nor does the 800XL.

 

The RF cable was routed from the back of the TV around the side and over the top where it probably soaked up a lot of magnetically-induced electricity unless it was literally coming from the TV's coaxial terminal. Because I was holding it the 1st time before the degauss kicked, I know that the charge happened at that exact moment. I deliberately did not touch it until the TV settled the 2nd time and got zapped anyway. Absolutely nothing else was connected either time. It was just acting like a really really nice retro computer monitor at the time.

 

What stored the charge? Is the little box on the "To Computer" side of the 800XL's RF cable something more than just a ferrite core?

Edited May 9, 2017 by CZroe

[Joey Z]

The Atari 800XL itself wasn't directly involved. Yes, I was holding both the AC and the RF cables the first time while I attempted to plug the console in, but the 2nd time was just the RF cable running to the TV (not connected to the 800XL). The TV does not have a ground plug nor does the 800XL.

 

The RF cable was routed from the back of the TV around the side and over the top where it probably soaked up a lot of magnetically-induced electricity unless it was literally coming from the TV's coaxial terminal. Because I was holding it the 1st time before the degauss kicked, I know that the charge happened at that exact moment. I deliberately did not touch it until the TV settled the 2nd time and got zapped anyway. Absolutely nothing else was connected either time. It was just acting like a really really nice retro computer monitor at the time.

 

What stored the charge? Is the little box on the "To Computer" side of the 800XL's RF cable something more than just a ferrite core?

nope, just a ferrite I think. The RF cable isn't anything more than just that, a cable. Is it like a static electricity shock, or mains shock? this is a tube TV? And it only happens once after degaussing, it's not continuous? Is there a way to manually trigger the degauss and test this somehow? CRTs produce pretty strong electric fields around parts of them, there's a chance what you're experiencing is capacitively induced rather than magnetically. Ever fire up a CRT, and immediately run your hands over the CRT face? feel all that static? now go and touch something grounded, you'll get quite the static zap. That's 25kV Generally not fatal at the level of charge a human body can hold by any means, but you'll feel it for sure.

Edited May 9, 2017 by Joey Z

[CZroe]

nope, just a ferrite I think. The RF cable isn't anything more than just that, a cable. Is like a static electricity shock, or mains shock? this is a tube TV?

Not very many other types would have a degaussing functions.

 

Yeah, it's one of the highest-end consumer 4:3 aspect CRTs so it's definitely overkill and, sadly, a bit too advanced for supporting light guns. Even RF stuff looks amazing after passing through the HD image processor. The 7800 actually looks super clean with the 800XL's RF cable... heck, the notoriously bad NES-101 looks great on this set.

 

Nothing was connected at the time except the TV's power lead, an Atari manual RF switch box and the 800XL's RF cable (not the 800XL itself). The 800XL end of the RF cable was unplugged from the 800XL and this is where the shock came from.

 

The shock felt a lot more substantial than any environmental static shock I can recall but it wasn't sustained like a mains shock would be. I have felt a momentary jolt of 120v AC mains before (unplugging a lamp) and I can't say that this was any less intense than I recall. It was enough to continue hurting after the event and to generate a flurry of curses/swears that got everyone else's attention. Other than the pain, my immediate thought was "HOLY $&@%!" What would that do to the computer if it were connected?!"

[Joey Z]

Not very many other types would have a degaussing functions.

 

Yeah, it's one of the highest-end consumer 4:3 aspect CRTs so it's definitely overkill and, sadly, a bit too advanced for supporting light guns. Even RF stuff looks amazing after passing through the HD image processor. The 7800 actually looks super clean with the 800XL's RF cable... heck, the notoriously bad NES-101 looks great on this set.

 

Nothing was connected at the time except the TV's power lead, an Atari manual RF switch box and the 800XL's RF cable (not the 800XL itself). The 800XL end of the RF cable was unplugged from the 800XL and this is where the shock came from.

 

The shock felt a lot more substantial than any environmental static shock I can recall but it wasn't sustained like a mains shock would be. I have felt a momentary jolt of 120v AC mains before (unplugging a lamp) and I can't say that this was any less intense than I recall. It was enough to continue hurting after the event and to generate a flurry of curses/swears that got everyone else's attention. Other than the pain, my immediate thought was "HOLY $&@%!" What would that do to the computer if it were connected?!"

I don't suppose you have a DMM? or any other voltmeter?

[CZroe]

I don't suppose you have a DMM? or any other voltmeter?

Mostly use it for continuity testing and pretending to know more about these thing than I do.

 

What should I set it to? Because the shock dissipates as soon as it's touched I don't know if I will get a reading that truly reflects the peak that I felt.

[_The Doctor__]

You could also experience inductive kick, I would not route the cable following the length of the degaussing coil.... if after you re route the cable you still get shock.. there is a fault with either the tv, or one of the connected items.. a wound coil along or wrapped around an ac line can produce a similar effect... in essence you could be creating your own form of transformer...

[Turbo-Torch]

Not very many other types would have a degaussing functions.

 

Pretty much every color TV and monitor ever made has a degaussing coil. I'm sure there may be a few exceptions from back in the 1950s when color TV was a new thing. You have nothing special.

 

As far as the Atari itself...highly doubt you're getting any line voltage back through that considering it has its own external step-down transformer.

 

If you're getting shocked by making contact with a metal portion of the TV, that would point to a component failure making the chassis hot and potentially fatal if your body is well grounded.

[CZroe]

Pretty much every color TV and monitor ever made has a degaussing coil. I'm sure there may be a few exceptions from back in the 1950s when color TV was a new thing. You have nothing special.

I was never under the impression that degaussing made it special. Every aperture grill tube has degaussing by necessity, as you rightly point out. If you're referring to my first post, it was a tongue-in-cheek way to bring up this relic of CRT technology while discussing this particular TV. The resolution is pretty extreme for a CRT and it isn't small so this may be why the degaussing seems particularly robust.

 

 

this is a tube TV?

Not very many other types would have a degaussing function.

See what I was saying?

 

Anyway, it actually is a particularly high-end CRT. I also have the KV-30XBR910, which was $2,300 when I got it new. To this day is it the best-rated consumer CRT tube ever produced (Sony SFP Trinitron), and this is basically the 4:3 version of that tube.

 

The XBR960 had the exact same tube. The XBR970 had a Taiwanese-produced tube that was VERY different and was the last CRT XBR produced.

 

These Hi-Scan Super Fine Pitch Trinitron displays are what they generally used for mastering HDTV content and it really does take a late-gen pro-Grade RGB set with digital and analog inputs to compare (Sony BVM).

 

As far as the Atari itself...highly doubt you're getting any line voltage back through that considering it has its own external step-down transformer.

 

If you're getting shocked by making contact with a metal portion of the TV, that would point to a component failure making the chassis hot and potentially fatal if your body is well grounded.

The step-down transformer is all well and good for voltage feeding through the power line. I'm worried about voltage feeding back through the RF (where the shock came from). Remember: the RF was coming from the TV when it shocked me, not the 800XL. I'm worried about it shocking the 800XL instead if it had been connected. Edited May 10, 2017 by CZroe

[Turbo-Torch]

Ok and I also read this....

 

Is there any kind of recommendation against using it with televisions that have degaussing functions? It sure seems like it could potentially cause damage (so much for the FCC!). A lot of dedicated PC CRT monitors have degaussing functions too (notably, most Trinitron tubes), though few from the era would.

 

Why would there be recommendations made against using an Atari 800 with a TV that has a degaussing coil when ALL TVs already had them when Pong came out?

Also name one make/model of any color PC monitor that doesn't have a degaussing function?

 

But that's all besides the point....

I don't care how awesome and expensive of a TV it was, if the chassis is hot due to some kind of failure, it's a death trap.

Did you set your VOM to AC, touch one lead to your house's earth ground and touch the other to a metal ground portion on the set? Then try it again on DC?

How about the outlet it's plugged into? Is the hot and neutral orientation correct?

[Kyle22]

The narrower slot in the mains outlet should be the only hot one if you test it. Does your TV plug have one wide blade and one narrow blade? Measure the voltage between the RF cable and your body using a DVM set to 250V AC position, if the TV plug blades are the same, flip the plug and measure again.

 

Edit: The DVM has a high resistance, so you shouldn't get bitten.

Edited May 10, 2017 by Kyle22

[CZroe]

I don't care how awesome and expensive of a TV it was, if the chassis is hot due to some kind of failure, it's a death trap.

Did you set your VOM to AC, touch one lead to your house's earth ground and touch the other to a metal ground portion on the set? Then try it again on DC?

How about the outlet it's plugged into? Is the hot and neutral orientation correct?

Well, you DID say that the TV was nothing special, which prompted that (couldn't resist).

 

Anyway, I wasn't touching the chassis and the chassis is plastic but I'll assume that the screws are grounded. It was definitely triggered by the degaussing and was momentary, so if anything on the chassis was hot that wasn't supposed to be I assume that was momentary as well.

 

After measuring CX-52 pots and tracing mylar continuity on the 800XL keyboard I accidentally left my meter on and ran it dead. Not the first time I've done that! It's literally the cheapest meter with a continuity buzzer I could find ($10 at Fry's Electronics), so I guess I can't expect it to last 14+ hours like that (work). I had to make a late-night convenience store visit for a 9v battery so I was still there in my car testing that keyboard at 2AM this morning. I'm back at work now without even making it back to my TV.

 

I know what should be what in the outlet but I have no idea how to use the meter to test that. What setting does it need to be in? Isn't one of the terminals supposed to be labeled for AC? I didn't see one labeled AC but I think one was labeled "ADC" or something like that. Is that correct for testing AC? I'll get a pic of my meter on my lunch break.

 

Ok and I also read this....

 

Is there any kind of recommendation against using it with televisions that have degaussing functions? It sure seems like it could potentially cause damage (so much for the FCC!). A lot of dedicated PC CRT monitors have degaussing functions too (notably, most Trinitron tubes), though few from the era would.

Why would there be recommendations made against using an Atari 800 with a TV that has a degaussing coil when ALL TVs already had them when Pong came out?

Also name one make/model of any color PC monitor that doesn't have a degaussing function?

I was pointing out how ridiculous that notion would be, since it was the entire purpose of Part 15 FCC compliance. The "dedicated" function I was talking about is the manually-triggered one that users can intentionally activate. This was because PC monitors were sometimes on a base that could be turned and repositioned. As I understand it, they would require degaussing after being turned due to the alignment changing with relation to the Earth's magnetic field. The reason older monitors did not have a user-accessible function was because they needed a microprocessor/controller to enforce a wait period to ensure that the user did not overheat the coils with repeated back-to-back degaussing.

 

FWIW, I grew up with a K-Mart-branded Samsung/Goldstar black & white TV and didn't get a color TV until around 1994... so no degauss in my home until the Panasonic R.E.A.L. 3DO was a thing. I played my 2600, NES, and SNES on that thing.

 

On that note, even with a B&W TV I could never figure out why the 2600 and earlier dedicated machines had a B&W switch. The games were obviously already B&W and I could not perceive a clarity difference! Obviously, some games used that switch for different functions, like Pause, so it was clearly not important to them. Was this for the ancient B&W sets that were intolerant of color signals due to the spec changing ever so slightly to 59.939hz for color NTSC?

 

The narrower slot in the mains outlet should be the only hot one if you test it. Does your TV plug have one wide blade and one narrow blade? Measure the voltage between the RF cable and your body using a DVM set to 250V AC position, if the TV plug blades are the same, flip the plug and measure again.

 

Edit: The DVM has a high resistance, so you shouldn't get bitten.

I'll look at my meter again but I didn't see it or the wave symbol when I last looked. Do really cheap multimeters sometimes leave out AC functions? Mine is a $10 Fry's special that's only better than my freebies from Harbor Freight because it has a buzzer for continuity testing. Somewhere I have an automotive multimeter from Amazon Prime Day that I never opened. I'll dig that up if I have to but I'm guessing that something spec'd for automotive AC may not be suitable for household electricity. Edited May 10, 2017 by CZroe

[Mclaneinc]

I think the guy isn't trying to flout that he has a top end TV but more the fact that because its a good make that he would not have expected the TV to be the issue here..

 

Does sound like a grounding issue, well that or an exposed break in the mains lead on either item..

[Turbo-Torch]

The reason older monitors did not have a user-accessible function was because they needed a microprocessor/controller to enforce a wait period to ensure that the user did not overheat the coils with repeated back-to-back degaussing.

 

All TVs and monitors have a simple circuit that activates the degaussing coil for several seconds when it's first turned on. You should not be getting a line voltage or static shock from a properly functioning coil circuit.

 

Anyway, I wasn't touching the chassis and the chassis is plastic but I'll assume that the screws are grounded. It was definitely triggered by the degaussing and was momentary, so if anything on the chassis was hot that wasn't supposed to be I assume that was momentary as well.

 

The housing is plastic. The chassis is inside and you touched something metal whether is was a screw or any jack on the back to get a shock.

If you got bit while pressing the manual degauss button then you possibly have a problem in that circuit...such as the coil coating worn through on a metal mount.

 

I know what should be what in the outlet but I have no idea how to use the meter to test that. What setting does it need to be in? Isn't one of the terminals supposed to be labeled for AC? I didn't see one labeled AC but I think one was labeled "ADC" or something like that. Is that correct for testing AC? I'll get a pic of my meter on my lunch break.

 

I'd have to see a pic of the meter. Most only need different ports for when you're checking current draw.

I have to say I'm not comfortable at this point on giving out advice when it comes to possible line voltage and someone new at troubleshooting.

Years ago an oddball commercial 460 volt through the wall HVAC unit damn near kill me. A maintenance guy thought he was doing me a favor by removing the unit and bringing back into his shop for me to work on. He had it on a wooden rolling platform with rubber wheels and had it plugged. I had my left arm on the metal top and reached to grab a screwdriver from my tool bag when my right hand brushed up against a metal conduit on the wall. I woke up about 10' away covered in blood with a small hole blown through my finger after completing the circuit of 277 volts (had I hit the other leg for 460 I'd probably be dead). Turns out it had a heating coil break and touch the inside of the metal cabinet which allowed that leg of 277 to energize the cabinet. When I went to unplug the unit, I found the outlet in his shop was not the correct pattern, so to make it fit, the dumb bastard cut off the ground prong! Had he not done that, it would have tripped a breaker (which is what the initial service call was for).

 

On that note, even with a B&W TV I could never figure out why the 2600 and earlier dedicated machines had a B&W switch. The games were obviously already B&W and I could not perceive a clarity difference!

 

I recall some games with bright backgrounds (such as Bowling and PacMan) looking much better with the B/W switch on while using a B/W TV. It helped improve the contrast quite a bit.

[_The Doctor__]

I like the information the post directly above conveyed but wanted to clarify I didn't like what happened hence the like button by me on post is in that context

[Turbo-Torch]

I like the information the post directly above conveyed but wanted to clarify I didn't like what happened hence the like button by me on post is in that context

 

Lol. Live and learn...now when I run into something odd like that (especially when it's not hardwired in) I run a contactless voltage detector around the unit.

[1050]

It was definitely triggered by the degaussing and was momentary, so if anything on the chassis was hot that wasn't supposed to be I assume that was momentary as well.

Definitely foolish to blame the degausssing system when it might

be something else that happens at the same time.

 

It is common error to infer that things which are consecutive in

order of time have necessarily the relation of cause and effect

Jacob Bigelow

Such as the build up of high KV charge in the tube which would affect

the world in the immediate vicinity of said tube being charged at

a rapid rate.

 

If the maker didn't want that induced counter effect connected to

power mains you could have your situation where the only thing

really connected to the reaction of the charging tube is you at

the end of the only direct connection to the charging circuit which

is isolated chassis ground via the antenna lead.

 

If it is static charge, a standard meter will be almost useless

and a fire brick might be used instead to give the same results.

And again, if it is a static charge, you will be hit thru the meter

or brick and internal resistance of either matters not.

 

Post #15 - swing over and look at that avatar. I seem to remember

an incident back in grade school where that guy said the box

turtle he just found liked being petted on the nose. I didn't

fall for it, the hooked beak on that reptile said other things

to my brain stem.

 

Possible solutions range from Staticide spray, drier sheets or

even a fan blowing air across the screen of the monitor to speed

up the equalization of the start up reaction static charge. Other

suggestion is to strip 6 inches from a spool of hook up wire which

gets wrapped around the faucet of the nearest metal water faucet

and then the other end of the spool is used to discharge the

isolated chassis ground via the antenna lead. Once you see the

spark, then you should be safe. Not suggested as a permanent

solution, lightning may find your grounding system to it's liking

and I don't want any blame if you find yourself entertaining

a lightning bolt inside your house someday.

 

Don't recall being bitten by the TV, but I surely do remember

having the hair on my arm stand up on end when I was in close

proximity to the tube as it was turned on by remote control.

[+Stephen]

Don't recall being bitten by the TV, but I surely do remember

having the hair on my arm stand up on end when I was in close

proximity to the tube as it was turned on by remote control.

I sadly had no CRT displays for my Atari for a few years. When I started using my 1084S and a new to me 19" Sony PVM again, I forgot just how scary that initial "bang" then static discharge noise was, when turning on these screens.

[CZroe]

 

All TVs and monitors have a simple circuit that activates the degaussing coil for several seconds when it's first turned on.

Yep in my case it happens almost two seconds after I press Power but before the screen displays an image or makes any other sound than a relay clicking.

 

You should not be getting a line voltage or static shock from a properly functioning coil circuit.

Definitely, hence the thread. I did wonder if the box on the RF cable was something more than ferrite in case that could cause this effect but that has been answered. It was a rather odd shape for such a thing.

 

I don't think that it was line voltage and I may just be a wuss to even think it might be but it was a lot stronger than I've felt in decades. I was only able to swing by home for 10 minutes on my lunch break so I still haven't gotten to test/measure anything related to the shock.

 

The housing is plastic. The chassis is inside and you touched something metal whether is was a screw or any jack on the back to get a shock.

Well, the housing has a chassis designation since Sony uses it for more than one set but, yeah, it primarily refers to what fits inside.

 

The metal I touched was the 800XL RF cable, the other end of which which was connected to the TV's coaxial input. My hand probably contacted between the hot and cold of the RCA cinch connector when I touched it the first time and definitely touched both the second time. The second time I did it deliberately after the TV's degauss had just finished. I've safely touched it with the TV on many times since and it only seems to shock me during or right after the TV degausses.

 

If you got bit while pressing the manual degauss button then you possibly have a problem in that circuit...such as the coil coating worn through on a metal mount.

That's definitely a possibility.

 

I'd have to see a pic of the meter. Most only need different ports for when you're checking current draw.

 

I have to say I'm not comfortable at this point on giving out advice when it comes to possible line voltage and someone new at troubleshooting.

I gotta learn at some point and we don't all have the luxury of a classroom, right?

 

LOL! Yeah, I know the dangers of working in a CRT and I definitely won't be trying it even though I know how to safely discharge one, if that's any comfort.

 

Years ago an oddball commercial 460 volt through the wall HVAC unit damn near kill me. A maintenance guy thought he was doing me a favor by removing the unit and bringing back into his shop for me to work on. He had it on a wooden rolling platform with rubber wheels and had it plugged. I had my left arm on the metal top and reached to grab a screwdriver from my tool bag when my right hand brushed up against a metal conduit on the wall. I woke up about 10' away covered in blood with a small hole blown through my finger after completing the circuit of 277 volts (had I hit the other leg for 460 I'd probably be dead). Turns out it had a heating coil break and touch the inside of the metal cabinet which allowed that leg of 277 to energize the cabinet. When I went to unplug the unit, I found the outlet in his shop was not the correct pattern, so to make it fit, the dumb bastard cut off the ground prong! Had he not done that, it would have tripped a breaker (which is what the initial service call was for).

Yikes! Glad you're OK. Hope that guy isn't doing anyone else "favors" like this!

 

I recall some games with bright backgrounds (such as Bowling and PacMan) looking much better with the B/W switch on while using a B/W TV. It helped improve the contrast quite a bit.

Interesting. I just remember toggling it every now and then and seeing no difference on my particular set. Didn't have bowling and I guess I never tried it with Pac-Man.

[CZroe]

Definitely foolish to blame the degausssing system when it might

be something else that happens at the same time.

 

 

Such as the build up of high KV charge in the tube which would affect

the world in the immediate vicinity of said tube being charged at

a rapid rate.

 

If the maker didn't want that induced counter effect connected to

power mains you could have your situation where the only thing

really connected to the reaction of the charging tube is you at

the end of the only direct connection to the charging circuit which

is isolated chassis ground via the antenna lead.

 

If it is static charge, a standard meter will be almost useless

and a fire brick might be used instead to give the same results.

And again, if it is a static charge, you will be hit thru the meter

or brick and internal resistance of either matters not.

 

Post #15 - swing over and look at that avatar. I seem to remember

an incident back in grade school where that guy said the box

turtle he just found liked being petted on the nose. I didn't

fall for it, the hooked beak on that reptile said other things

to my brain stem.

 

Possible solutions range from Staticide spray, drier sheets or

even a fan blowing air across the screen of the monitor to speed

up the equalization of the start up reaction static charge. Other

suggestion is to strip 6 inches from a spool of hook up wire which

gets wrapped around the faucet of the nearest metal water faucet

and then the other end of the spool is used to discharge the

isolated chassis ground via the antenna lead. Once you see the

spark, then you should be safe. Not suggested as a permanent

solution, lightning may find your grounding system to it's liking

and I don't want any blame if you find yourself entertaining

a lightning bolt inside your house someday.

 

Don't recall being bitten by the TV, but I surely do remember

having the hair on my arm stand up on end when I was in close

proximity to the tube as it was turned on by remote control.

You're right. It is an assumption, but it's also based on the fact that I didn't die, it stopped after discharging into me, and it dissipated soon after the degaussing stopped even when I didn't discharge it. Edited May 11, 2017 by CZroe

[Turbo-Torch]

Left (common) and center (VΩmAF°) are where your leads plug in for volts and ohms. The 10 Amp unfused port on the right is for current.

 

Hard to tell from the pic on my screen but it appears the AC is on the right side of the scale with 200 and 600 volt selections. The left side with more selections in blue should be your DC scale (straight line with dashes under it).

 

As mentioned by 1050, if it's a high voltage static charge, your VOM will be useless.

 

Just don't be coming in contact with anything on that TV while it's plugged in. And keep in mind that if it is a high static charge, it will jump out and bite you.