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some more 15 pin gameport pc to 5200 adapters


bohoki

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3 left

 

thanks 007 and other purchasers

 

i too would like to know of the controller you plan on using just for statistical data

 

my favorite ones are the gravis joystick red buttons/grey buttons, the gravis gamepad ,mako pad ,interact pc powerpad pro ,pc propad ,pc propad4,wico merlin,quickshot warrior,pc raider,performance pc mission,micro innovation terminator

 

many other brands work

 

radioshack made a neat gamepad

zoltrix made a spiffy one

pc concepts

kraft

champ

 

logitec makes a sturdy joystick but like all flightsticks has such tremendous throw for flight control precision it is not fun to play any action games

Edited by bohoki
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Don't think 9 pin is possible.

 

As for the adapter came in the mail today. Works great. Best controller ever. The analog is awesome. Even for missle command, and super breakout.

I have seen them eBay with a built in A/D converter. It would be fine with old anolog PC controllers, but I don't know what would happen if you used a digital controller, like a D-pad, with an A/D converter to a 2600/7800/A8.

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it is possible its just i don't want to make it it takes a bit more labor and parts and i do my best to make these as cheap as possible

 

thankfully it only takes 3 connectors which run about 50 cents each 2 capacitors that cost like 2 cents a couple inches of solder a couple inches of network wire i got for free a little pushbutton i salvaged from broken electronics a half a stick of hot glue lately ive been putting on two plastic handles so those cost another 40 cents

 

the hassle of stripping 16 ends of wire is tedious soldering all the wires in the right places cutting off the metal bits from one of the connectors

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wow that thing avi posted is basically a masterplay converter but calibrated for pc use it looks good although it needs a couple breakout boards to add a second fire button

 

the one 007 posted is a neat idea to be able to use a pc joystick with a 2600 i would like to experiment to see where the direction triggers or use a gravis gamepad which is basically a digital to analog converter then have it run through the analog to digital converter then use it with a masterplay

 

but then it gets so crazy and more complex than stolen identity 3

 

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wow that thing avi posted is basically a masterplay converter but calibrated for pc use it looks good although it needs a couple breakout boards to add a second fire button

 

the one 007 posted is a neat idea to be able to use a pc joystick with a 2600 i would like to experiment to see where the direction triggers or use a gravis gamepad which is basically a digital to analog converter then have it run through the analog to digital converter then use it with a masterplay

 

but then it gets so crazy and more complex than stolen identity 3

 

 

What I posted is basically the same thing as ave 1 minus the wire isn't it.

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A bump on the adapter, potential Atari 5200 (PC Gameport) controllers pictured.

 

There are tons of inexpensive PC Gameport controllers at the thrift stores!

 

13658611724_faf38eeccf.jpg

PC gameport joysticks are pretty much the ONLY gaming thing I ever see at goodwill.

 

Hey, look at that both the Flighsticks I have right there in the middle of that lower shelf. I also have an aforementioned Gravis pad, and an original sidewinder pad.

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thanks for the shout out

 

all the ones i made are sold i have someone on a waitlist

 

 

i originally started making these to shut people up cause it was nothing but controller complaints

 

i have raised my price a bit since nearly 30% goes to the post office but i want to keep it so its not an expensive thing like a modded controller

 

i'm not saying i dont make money this last batch paid for a super overlay kit so i have that now yay

 

but the tediousness makes me feel like the simpsons with those guys that go to the north pole for ice and sell it for a dollar a bag

 

 

Edited by bohoki
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Well I appreciate your efforts bohoki. I found your earlier post and got me a interact pc makopad. That plus this adapter I recently got from you allows me to dust off my 5200 and get up and running with a few games. Someday I'll eventually get the time to work on my other 5200 projects: refurb my 5200 trakball, try my hand at rebuilding a 5200 controller with the Best Electronics rebuild kit, do the 5200 power mod, do the UAV video mod, etc. But at least for now I'm up and running with your adapter.

 

On a related note, I thought about what you said on how tedious the build was, I'm wondering if perhaps some version of the blue connector you use in your adapters can be found where through-hole pins could be used (instead of soldering wires to the plug connector), a PCB board made, and then perhaps the build could be: solder Atari 5200 connector to board, solder PC connector to board, solder 5200 controller connector to board, and perhaps solder a push-button switch to board. Materials cost might go up, but maybe installation could be as quick as 5 or 10 minutes per adapter. Or just skip assembly and ship as a kit and let the buyer do the soldering. Getting all that set up would be a lot of work so I am not volunteering you for the task, and I doubt I would have the time for the task, but I would be curious to know if anyone has located a suitable connector. All I can find are the standard shallow metal flange connectors on digikey, or the 8.95 cable from Console 5. (and its a cable so you aren't saving much, in fact its $8 more than a connector).

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there are a few construction shortcuts companies have come up with but they generally require 3 injection molding machines

 

i guess back then they could outsource the "core" which is the 15 pin housing

 

one way they used was to crimp little grabers to the wires and then shove them onto the back side chromed headers then they would enrobe the whole shebang in a sort of polyproplene insulation block then mold the handle over that so no soldering on that end who knows maybe the cord (aka harness) could be oursourced i notice gravis has 2 types on the original pc gamepad some have the metal shield and screws the other is just plastic (with the 5200 type locking notches)

 

 

the problem ive noticed now is that the plug shrouds ive found (cheapest) are not chamfered so the controllers that have the thicker plastic plug wont slip under the wide fingers that hold the plug to the housing

 

also another thing is that i use pliers to bend the male end to allow the 5200 controllers locking lugs to fit into the metal socket

 

as to making a kit for someone to make was explored but anyone who can do that can easily buy the components from china to make a dozen of them for close to the shipping cost it would me for me to send it to someone a kit to make 1 via priority mail

 

shipping is fairly constant it costs approx $2.60 to send something first class in a padded envelope and i can get a 3 pack of padded envelopes for $1 at the dolla tree

 

 

i was thinking of trying these but there is the plug depth problem again

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DB15-D-SUB-VGA-15pin-Female-Adapter-Jack-Terminal-Breakout-PCB-Board-T1/252514376767?epid=1486949891

Edited by bohoki
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there are a few construction shortcuts companies have come up with but they generally require 3 injection molding machines

 

i guess back then they could outsource the "core" which is the 15 pin housing

 

one way they used was to crimp little grabers to the wires and then shove them onto the back side chromed headers then they would enrobe the whole shebang in a sort of polyproplene insulation block then mold the handle over that so no soldering on that end who knows maybe the cord (aka harness) could be oursourced i notice gravis has 2 types on the original pc gamepad some have the metal shield and screws the other is just plastic (with the 5200 type locking notches)

 

 

the problem ive noticed now is that the plug shrouds ive found (cheapest) are not chamfered so the controllers that have the thicker plastic plug wont slip under the wide fingers that hold the plug to the housing

 

also another thing is that i use pliers to bend the male end to allow the 5200 controllers locking lugs to fit into the metal socket

 

as to making a kit for someone to make was explored but anyone who can do that can easily buy the components from china to make a dozen of them for close to the shipping cost it would me for me to send it to someone a kit to make 1 via priority mail

 

shipping is fairly constant it costs approx $2.60 to send something first class in a padded envelope and i can get a 3 pack of padded envelopes for $1 at the dolla tree

 

 

i was thinking of trying these but there is the plug depth problem again

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DB15-D-SUB-VGA-15pin-Female-Adapter-Jack-Terminal-Breakout-PCB-Board-T1/252514376767?epid=1486949891

 

Something like this works well for that type of problem in my experience, if you can find it in 15-pin, although I would prefer something more rugged than the ribbon extension for getting flopped around a lot.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Cable-for-JERRY-JERRY-TOM-TOM-adapter-to-Amiga-600-Atari-ST-and-C64/232027149946?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

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yea i was going to post these as an option but once again plug depth issue

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pieces-Serial-Port-DB15-15Pin-Female-IDC-Jack-Flat-Ribbon-Cable-Connector-Blue/310992366324

 

So far this is the best I could find... If only they didn't put that metal casing around it it would be perfect. Cheap too in larger quantities. I suppose you could cut off the metal ends to fix the depth issue but I wouldn't want to hack each piece to do that. I guess if you ordered in volume maybe someone could just give you the blue center with the prongs.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-D-SUB-15-Round-Pin-Female-Straight-Through-Hole-PCB-Connector-2-Row-DB15F/172972873858

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yea if i had a autofeed crimping machine i could crimp on connectors to the wires shove them on the pins and just hotglue a glob

 

i was thinking about making a mold out of a controller plug with play dough and injection mold black hot glue for a handle but then i though these things are never going to look professional so whats the point

 

 

i cant just order the core (well i can but its actually more expensive) its the way they are assembled the plug has a front and back the metal holds everything together i cut off the metal and use my soldering iron to fuse the pieces together

 

they got this one in australia but i am not paying those rates for a plug

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/T-B-Ansley-D-Sub-Dual-Row-DB15-15Pin-Female-Jack-IDC-Ribbon-Strap-Connector/112675581677

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  • 1 month later...

everyone waiting for another batch hang in there i got the parts (well supplier screwed up i ordered 10 m and 10 f they sent me 12 m and 8 F)

 

sPQxDtU.jpgi'll pm people in order when i get them built but i am slow and lazy and do them in stages cause its a bunch of wire stripping and tining

 

 

 

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