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Alex.Pace

Tutorvision games - Interest check

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A lot of one player cartridges can be played with either controller, WC Baseball uses the right controller in one player mode.

 

You can just remove the plastic layer on the disc if you want that controller to look better.

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You all pointed out a few things I wouldn’t know what to look for, like controller plastic, so I’m going to spam you with photos of just about everything here. I also took a better pic of the sticker showing Made in USA. 

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On 11/21/2019 at 11:28 AM, intvsteve said:

Well, it has the GROM at least. And it almost certainly has the new version of the STIC.

 

A couple of notes of caution before you open it up:

  • The power switch button may be (lightly) glued on. You should try to cautiously pry it straight up. You don't want to break it or scratch the system.
  • The LED power light is very cheaply connected to the main guts of the system, and it's super easy to tear the wires right off. Use caution!

Expanding on the second point:

  1. After you remove the power switch "glamour cap" and the 6 screws on the underside, turn the system back upright
  2. Take the controllers out of their cradles and lay them on the table "below" the system (i.e. between you and where the reset / power are)
  3. Gently lift the top half the shell up maybe 1/2 to 1 inch
  4. Carefully tip it toward you, keeping the area with power and reset close to where they already are -- use that as the axis of rotation

That way, you won't tear the wires. Not that such a thing has ever happened to me. 🙄

 

And like Lathe26 mentioned, some pictures of the board would be great! To get those, you'll have a bit more of an adventure. You'll need to take out 6 more screws. The rest of the process is a little hazier to go on from memory... Surely there are some pictures of what to expect floating around...

 

 

 

 

These instructions are helpful, and I am SO GLAD I didn't ruin anything the first time.  When I first opened it, I removed the screws and pulled off the top lid, having no idea there were wires connected and no idea the "glamour cap" needed removal.  The adhesive on the "glamour cap" was long since dried up, so that popped off on its own and I think I would have pulled hard enough to disconnect the wire, but I slowed down when I realized the controllers would need to be fed through.  *whew*

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Great pictures!

4 minutes ago, Alfguin said:

It looks like the ROM chip is RO09580/P586.

It looks like that is a "regular" Intellivision EXEC ROM. Since you're new to Intellivision esoterica... the EXEC is a "standard library" of routines that most of the early games used. Think of it kind of as a mini operating system of sorts.

 

On the original systems, the EXEC used two chips, but on this new hardware, it's in one chip. The other version, "WBEXEC," has part P587 IIRC.

 

Now, to go scrutinize those pictures some more!

 

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OK, definitely double check the components and let me know if I photographed everything necessary.  After double checking, I want to make sure I have the correct list of what is/isn't a Tudorvision component.  

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6 minutes ago, Alfguin said:

OK, definitely double check the components and let me know if I photographed everything necessary.  After double checking, I want to make sure I have the correct list of what is/isn't a Tutorvision component.  

Based on those pictures, and the one game you have:

  • It has the updated Graphics ROM (GROM) (as evidenced by the font on the Frogger title screen)
  • It has the *original* EXEC, in a new physical package (as evidenced by the part number printed on the chip - RO09580/P586)
  • It has an UPDATED graphics chip (the STIC 1A)
  • It has the INTV 1988 motherboard

It's a sharp, clean unit, and it's cool that it has the newer hardware in it. It's not a "full" Tutorvision because the EXEC chip is the "old" OS.

 

It would be interesting to see what shows up on the title screen with an older Mattel cartridge.

 

Others, please double-check this info! We want to be sure nothing is overlooked or mis-stated!

 

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OK, not to take away from people double-checking the chips, but I have a serious rookie question here.  Is there a specific way to deal with the cords while trying to put the controllers away.  I feel like I'm working with 10 thumbs and can't figure out how to get them put away properly... I've gotta be doing it wrong.

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Oh finally something I may be able to answer lol.  Basically the controllers should be put in with cords facing towards the center of system and the disc on the left & right controllers should be farthest away from the center.  If the controller wires have been seriously stretched out, it may be impossible to get them both to stay in place.  When new the controllers easily fit into place.

joe

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1 minute ago, JoeM_Intellivision said:

Oh finally something I may be able to answer lol.  Basically the controllers should be put in with cords facing towards the center of system and the disc on the left & right controllers should be farthest away from the center.  If the controller wires have been seriously stretched out, it may be impossible to get them both to stay in place.  When new the controllers easily fit into place.

joe

I had to look up internet photos of the IntelliVision to even have a guess, and I thought that was probably the proper direction (I tried staging my photos as if I knew what I was doing, but we're being honest here).  Does the cable fold under the controller in the tray, or does it get pushed into the center void between the controllers?

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4 minutes ago, Alfguin said:

I had to look up internet photos of the IntelliVision to even have a guess, and I thought that was probably the proper direction (I tried staging my photos as if I knew what I was doing, but we're being honest here).  Does the cable fold under the controller in the tray, or does it get pushed into the center void between the controllers?

Yes, the cables should tuck in to the void in the centre.

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What you said last - the controller wires for both controllers get pushed towards the center like you stated.  It looks like the left controller wire got stretched out and even tangled a bit so it may not be possible to get both controllers to fit like when new.  When new, both controllers get pushed in all the way towards center and the controllers don’t hang over at all. In your case you may only be able to get 1 controller in like that and the 2nd one may hang over a bit because there isn’t enough room left because of the stretched out wire.  Hope that makes sense.

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It can be a royal pain if the coiled cords are stretched out - and in fact downright impossible. In fact, it looks like both of those cords are somewhat stretched out, so your mission is difficult.

 

Not sure if it's possible to tighten them back up a little or not.

 

FWIW, here are some pictures of how it works in theory with some well-behaved cords.

Step-0-make-the-U.thumb.jpg.02457a38995316859942c296265bc484.jpg

Step-1.thumb.jpg.45ee6b16d41ed1c51a947b26b3ca7132.jpg

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Step-3-finis.thumb.jpg.1ac1eb60331331c6ad05af0fae86f839.jpg

 

You will probably need to use your index finger to guide the cables to tuck under the controller (the side closer to the front of the console in this case) and guide the cord. After doing this for so many years it's second nature. :P

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Mission (mostly) accomplished!! Thank goodness you attached photos. One sticks out a tiny bit, but not bad. It definitely required some index finger “encouraging” the cables to do what they are told.  Now I don’t feel like such an idiot, yay!

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48 minutes ago, intvsteve said:

It can be a royal pain if the coiled cords are stretched out - and in fact downright impossible. In fact, it looks like both of those cords are somewhat stretched out, so your mission is difficult.

 

Not sure if it's possible to tighten them back up a little or not.

 

FWIW, here are some pictures of how it works in theory with some well-behaved cords.

Step-0-make-the-U.thumb.jpg.02457a38995316859942c296265bc484.jpg

Step-1.thumb.jpg.45ee6b16d41ed1c51a947b26b3ca7132.jpg

Step-2.thumb.jpg.fc6366ad6771e6be6ca966c81e55730e.jpg

Step-3-finis.thumb.jpg.1ac1eb60331331c6ad05af0fae86f839.jpg

 

You will probably need to use your index finger to guide the cables to tuck under the controller (the side closer to the front of the console in this case) and guide the cord. After doing this for so many years it's second nature. :P

I find this series of photos oddly soothing...

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26 minutes ago, Lathe26 said:

I find this series of photos oddly soothing...

Is it like tucking a child into bed at night? Pulling the blanket up to their chin and saying goodnight. ;)   I just liked the photos because, for the first time, I figured out what to do, lol.  Education for me, soothing for you.

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TIL :D

 

I don't always take pictures of woodgrain consoles tucking their controllers night-night, but when I do, it's on a woodgrain surface.

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2 hours ago, Lathe26 said:

I find this series of photos oddly soothing...

I found it ever so slightly arousing. Also oddly.

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10 hours ago, intvsteve said:

It can be a royal pain if the coiled cords are stretched out - and in fact downright impossible. In fact, it looks like both of those cords are somewhat stretched out, so your mission is difficult.

 

Not sure if it's possible to tighten them back up a little or not.

I managed to re-tighten a stretched cable by patiently rolling it around a pen and holding it in place for a few minutes

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On 10/15/2018 at 10:06 PM, Lathe26 said:

Unfortunately, 8652 is a non-functional unit. It only displays a solid green screen when you turn it on (tried the usual cartridge wiggling, cleaning, etc). On the upside, the video does glitch when reset is pressed so there is something partially working. Some repair work is likely necessary. Minor: the red LED does not light up either.

 

...

 

I have brought this Tutor Pro back to life!

 

Turns out the board (serial# 8652) had a cracked 5V trace so a section of it wasn't receiving enough power.  This is also why the LED wasn't working.  I fixed it by running a red wire from one section of the board to another.

 

After that, I made some lesser fixes.  The LED wires were cut to put a 2 pin connector in the middle (eases any future servicing).  I also cleaned and fixed the left controller since it had issues (soda inside and someone else reassembled it wrong).  Thanks out to Freewheel's FW Diagnostic cart; it was key to getting the controller fixed.

 

20191231_180231-1612x907.thumb.jpg.47484d8fb9301d976037433cd83c31d1.jpg

 

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My other Tutor Pro (the 1st one I got, serial# 8800) was also nonfunctional due to a broken RF connector.  Now, I have mostly confirmed that the RF modulator from Biwave Inc can be replaced by the far more common Astec version.  Out of view is a little TV showing Astrosmash running with a good picture.

 

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