Level42 #1 Posted September 30, 2017 (edited) My 1050 used to have a write protect switch and LED but I removed them since I got a nice 3D printed new front on which I don't want to install ugly switches.The set-up was a bit different from the usual schematics I find.....this "worked" with the J7 jumper removed...Now....I don't see the use of any write protect for floppies in 2017. I don't have any valuable data on them anymore, lets face it this is just a nostalgia thing now.So I want to make it permanently write enabled, no matter what the opto sensor "sees". I checked the schematics.The Polish schematics only indicate the default settings....The service manual states the jumpers but not what each setting does... anyone have a table or info ? Edited September 30, 2017 by Level42 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Level42 #2 Posted September 30, 2017 (edited) Hah.....that Polish schematic is wrong. JP6 and JP7 are not connected to pin 2 and 3 of U11A. The original schematics are correct: Edited September 30, 2017 by Level42 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Level42 #3 Posted September 30, 2017 (edited) I had figured that simply shorting the side of JP7 that runs towards U11 to ground would (permanently) do the same as the photo-transistor would do when there's light falling onto it....but that doesn't seem to work.... Edited September 30, 2017 by Level42 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brenski #4 Posted September 30, 2017 if it were just a case of aesthetics, i'd have left it (the write-protect switch) connected, set permanently to "write- enable" and tuck it all away inside the case out of view. or am i missing something obvious? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Level42 #5 Posted September 30, 2017 (edited) Haha, yeah that's me....don't want unnecessary clutter inside.... But I fixed it Stupid me, I had soldered the wire to ground on the wrong side of JP7...... LOL. So...if you want to do this, simply remove JP7 and solder a wire between the "upper" connection of JP7 and TP15 (which is ground). Edited September 30, 2017 by Level42 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brenski #6 Posted September 30, 2017 result 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1050 #7 Posted October 1, 2017 Schematic is wrong, pin 12 of U11 is grounded with extreme prejudice. Blob O solder on pins 11 and 12 on the bottom side would do the trick then, but I would pull jumpers 5, 6 and 7 for the next guy to stop and wonder long enough perhaps to spot the blob. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
+Nezgar #8 Posted March 2, 2019 Here is the easiest, reversible way to quickly mod a 1050 so that it always allows writes. Just just disconnect J11 and push it aside, and put a jumper block you commonly find on SCSI or IDE hard drives (SCSI ID, IDS master, slave, CS etc) onto pins 2-3. Return to stock by removing the jumper block, and replace the J11 block. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BillC #9 Posted March 3, 2019 (edited) Last September I posted a schematic of a write protect switch/status LED, using a small switch/bi-color LED combo about the same size as the power LED, I used the 1050 schematic from Sams Computerfacts. The write protect switch completely replaces the power LED, which isn't needed any more because the write protect status LED is always on(either red or green) when the drive is on.http://atariage.com/forums/topic/282621-1050-bi-colour-led-resistors/?do=findComment&comment=4119705 Edited March 3, 2019 by BillC 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites