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Atari 130XE Power Switch Stuck?

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Nope, the metal toggle on the switch will not move at all.

Ok it wasn't just me then. Good to know. :)

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Nope, the metal toggle on the switch will not move at all.

Thats what I thought on mine.....but its impossible to move by hand because the metal "arm" of the switch is too short to move it by hand.....it needs the plastic part......when I put it back it worked just fine.....O, well...whatever its just a switch :)

Edited by Level42

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UPDATE: I finally got my switches from jolly ol' England today. I put the new one in and it works like a champ :grin: All (320K) memory tests good too...

 

Thank you,

Roger

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I got a new in box 65XE about a month ago and the switch on it was also not great. At first it wouldn't budge and I had to press really hard to get it to come on. It loosened up a little after a while but it's still difficult to turn off and on. Sounds like they used really poor quality switches in these things.

Edited by Banquo

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I got 5 of the power switches from the UK guy on ebay, ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/152091366689) worked out to about $2 canadian per switch.. now I can fix a few others in the future if i come across another case of stuck switchitus. According the the listing title, I guess the original 520 ST uses the same type of switch too.

 

Little paper in with my order points to http://st-freakz.co.uk/for a better price than through ebay...

 

post-53052-0-69806600-1512016857_thumb.jpg

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I got a new in box 65XE about a month ago and the switch on it was also not great. At first it wouldn't budge and I had to press really hard to get it to come on. It loosened up a little after a while but it's still difficult to turn off and on. Sounds like they used really poor quality switches in these things.

 

 

Actually they are fine quality. You bought a NIB 65XE of about 25 years old and that switch hasn't been switched ONCE in 25 years and you expect it to work flawlessly......??

 

I haven't come across a bad working one yet. The one that "failed" on me merely needed it's cap to be reseated properly again. I guess that happens pretty often especially if machines are opened (it happened when I was working on my 800XL).

 

One tip: 25+ year old electrolytic capacitors don't like sitting around and having done nothing either....it would be wise to check them if you have a decent ESR meter, or else swap them with good quality new ones.

Like switches, caps like exercise to stay healthy...

Edited by Level42
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Actually they are fine quality. You bought a NIB 65XE of about 25 years old and that switch hasn't been switched ONCE in 25 years and you expect it to work flawlessly......??

 

It was just an observation, I've never had any problems with switches on my other old computers and I've read about a lot of problems with the XE switches so I was just saying it sounds like they used cheaper quality switches. I didn't mean to sound stupid or offend anyone. Nevermind, sorry I even posted.

Edited by Banquo

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Once you get the switch to work, you should power up the computer to make sure it works. If Id does, LEAVE the power on at least for a day or two. The capacitors can reform themselves.

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that's the vertical one good for 600xl/800xl/65xe/130xe. Maybe digikey also also has the horizontal/side mount variant, used in the 800, 810, 1050

 

Edit: Found it: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k/7101J1ABE2/CKN2004-ND/67002(Man digikey's site sucks balls on mobile!) Also just looked in a 1050, its the exact model in there. I presume its the same in the 800.

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i used an "st-freakz" switch in one of my 1050s, i just had to un-bend and then re-bend the 3 legs to suit

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I had mint hardly used 130XE in the box I pulled out to use recently. Switch was seized and would not move. Tried to free it with some Deox It F5 and the switch took a lot to loosen up but it ended up breaking in the end. Ordered some switches from Digikey ($8 each!) and swapped it out. Looks like a perfect replacement switch. Some look similar but might not fit right, notice the two legs at the front. Some have them shifting front or back. Might be able to get it to work, but I didn't want to take a chance.

 

As you can see pin 2 didn't look too good and I tried to redo it. What a pain. I ended up heating it up too much trying to get the solder to go down more and must of lifted or destroyed the pad on the bottom side. So the solder doesn't want to stick to the pin and board on the bottom, but at least the pin is filled up well on the top side and makes good contact like the other pins do now.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k/7101J1AV2QE2/CKN2011-ND/272375

post-3709-0-28538700-1544894354.jpg

post-3709-0-80836900-1544894358.jpg

post-3709-0-89671900-1544894363.jpg

Edited by tjlazer
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I'm putting a panel mount version of the same switch on my 1088xel. I'd miss the feel of it if it weren't there.

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I remove the plastic push always first, then I put the cleaner in and work the metal pole... once free I snap the plastic rocker back on...

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On 12/15/2018 at 7:19 PM, tjlazer said:

I had mint hardly used 130XE in the box I pulled out to use recently. Switch was seized and would not move. Tried to free it with some Deox It F5 and the switch took a lot to loosen up but it ended up breaking in the end. Ordered some switches from Digikey ($8 each!) and swapped it out. Looks like a perfect replacement switch. Some look similar but might not fit right, notice the two legs at the front. Some have them shifting front or back. Might be able to get it to work, but I didn't want to take a chance.

 

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k/7101J1AV2QE2/CKN2011-ND/272375

 

 

For future reference, I ordered one from RS Online (Finland). With taxes it cost almost 10€, but it matches the original part exactly so maybe I don't mind.

 

The product picture on RS is wrong, with SKU 155-8971 you will get 7101J1AV2QE2 which has three 90 degree bent legs and it's not the panel mount version.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rocker-switches/1558971/

 

Picture of the switch I received:

IMG_20200430_173435.thumb.jpg.0ed05a3f82b5d7bcf8de9174b2f14f54.jpg

 

Looking forward to getting my 130XE fixed...

 

Edited by karttu

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Good to hear, and good luck! I find you need crank the heat on the soldering iron a bit to free those lugs. I've replaced stuck power switches on 3 65/130XE's now... The temp fix until I acquired replacement switches was I soldered the switch to be 'Always On' - so my 'switch' was un-plugging/plugging in the power cord. :grin: One of the most gratifying repairs. :thumbsup:

 

One of my "bad" switches, and replacement just prior to re-soldering...

badswitch.thumb.jpg.a5d9648deeb11a9243838a52aeee330d.jpgSwitchToBeSoldered.thumb.jpg.b2806b377a92e394384a12b47a9de7a7.jpg

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I had the same problem with the switch on my 130XE.  I had packed it up around 1990, so it was nearly 30 years without moving.

 

I ordered an exact replacement switch for $2.50 from Brad at Best Electronics, along with a new keyboard membrane. 

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