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1088XEL Atari ITX Motherboard Pre-order & Interest Thread


MacRorie

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I would. I would like a bare board and a completed board. :) Very Sexy board.

 

I was planning on sending him two of my green boards anyway, so I'll let you and him figure out the details about purchasing. After I get done doing the same for the BETA testers, I won't have a lot left over, so I'll probably be stingy with those, since it wouldn't be worth it to me to do another board run just for my personal use.

 

- Michael

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Is there an option to get the bare board + all sockets installed?

 

Can the pcb maker install the sockets for a fee? That seems like the most time consuming item.

 

(For those of us who have all the chips and U1 kit already)

 

 

 

A few people have asked about this. I can certainly consider this option. I will look into it. Just be aware folks, I am still waiting for the boards themselves to arrive. Looks like 1-2 weeks before I get the boards.

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Holy crap, didn't expect OSH park's price to explode like that !!! Certainly not an option...

 

But uhhmmm, no silkscreen on the back ? Mmmm yeah I remember some manufacturers charge extra for it, elecrow doesn't....but maybe they do with 4 layer...? Not important though....it's just a show thing... ;)

 

Someone mentioned PAL. What ANTIC/GTIA will be included in the full,kit, as PAL countries will need PAL setups. And PAL Antics are crazy expensive at some companies.........

 

Come to think of it, does the design provide for the extra clock signal needed for PAL ?

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If the complete kit ends up looking like this; http://ataribits.weebly.com/1088xel.htmlthen you can have some of my unborn children along with the cash!

 

I saw this and thought "I should have that."

 

I would hope a modern recreation like this would allow the upgrades out there to just plug in, that'd be fantastic!

That is a thing of beauty but.......but.......that switch on the right side.....here we have a completely fresh 2017 Atari 8 bit as f Atari had released it themselves and we put a 1976 metal switch on the right hand side......o well just my taste....ruins the entire utter brilliant look of the whole thing IMHO...

post-25272-0-87909500-1508662315_thumb.png

Edited by Level42
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That is a thing of beauty but.......but.......that switch on the right side.....here we have a completely fresh 2017 Atari 8 bit as f Atari had released it themselves and we put a 1976 metal switch on the right hand side......o well just my taste....ruins the entire utter brilliant look of the whole thing IMHO...

I'm fully aware of the switch issue, and I'm looking into alternatives. But please keep in mind how accelerated and multi-faceted this entire project was. So some things were implemented quickly in order to test out an idea or concept, and in some cases such as this one it needs a re-think. Some people also wondered why use a switch at all, and not do it through the extra I/O bits of the U1MB, but that was a limited resource and also because of the nature of how this mouse select needs to work, it really would have been an awkward way to control it. Scenario... You just booted up a game that can use the mouse, but you discover it is assigned to a different port than the one you have currently selected. So you jump into U1MB setup change it but unfortunately have to do a re-boot in order to get back into the game - what a pain that would be. Using a physical switch allows on the fly changes without disruption to whatever is running.

 

- Michael

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I'm curious what MacRorie's custom design idea is for a printed case.

 

Some more unsolicited advice / idleness from meself, regarding the Realan case.

 

^Since the current lay-out uses a custom cart-tunnel, that fits between the board and the custom-cut case-top to form a solid anchor for the carts, that might be a way to further accessorize and customize it. Borrowing an idea from the 2600 design... maybe extend the flanges off of the short sides of the cart tunnel,along either or both sides, parallel to the case top. At the ends, secure them with screws that attache through the flanges and into the case top. There are some fairly decorative fasteners out there, if the fancy arises. Along these flanges, inset any switch or, say, the console keys, cutting out access holes / ports along the top plate. If someone is feeling really ambitious, they might find a way to secure or incorporate the CF card reader holder into the print, making it sit parallel length-wise, along-side the cart port, with the slot entry opening accessible through the lid, as well. That's if there is space for it and it's not too complicated. Anyways..

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They make black boots for the toggle switches that you can add on. It would match it to the black case and look nicer although would add cost.

 

not sure which one would work for that switch though: https://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=toggle+switch+boot

 

I'm working on something that should be much less intrusive and very cheap. Check it Out

 

- Michael

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That is a thing of beauty but.......but.......that switch on the right side.....here we have a completely fresh 2017 Atari 8 bit as f Atari had released it themselves and we put a 1976 metal switch on the right hand side......o well just my taste....ruins the entire utter brilliant look of the whole thing IMHO...

 

Hush your mouth... I want my big toggle switch just the way it is :P

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Folks,

Just got a notification from DHL about a shipment. Should be the boards. Some of you have been asking if there will be enough. I will make sure I get enough for all (bare boards, kits, assembled, etc). I need to make some Ultimate carts this weekend and will set time aside to put together all of the information in this thread in a neater format as well. If possible, I will begin the assembly so I can get you a cost on assembled.

 

I am monitoring the thread. I knew there would be interest, but even this exceeds my expectations.

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Some more unsolicited advice / idleness from meself, regarding the Realan case.

 

Since the current lay-out uses a custom cart-tunnel, that fits between the board and the custom-cut case-top to form a solid anchor for the carts, that might be a way to further accessorize and customize it. Borrowing an idea from the 2600 design... maybe extend the flanges off of the short sides of the cart tunnel,along either or both sides, parallel to the case top. At the ends, secure them with screws that attache through the flanges and into the case top. There are some fairly decorative fasteners out there, if the fancy arises. Along these flanges, inset any switch or, say, the console keys, cutting out access holes / ports along the top plate. If someone is feeling really ambitious, they might find a way to secure or incorporate the CF card reader holder into the print, making it sit parallel length-wise, along-side the cart port, with the slot entry opening accessible through the lid, as well. That's if there is space for it and it's not too complicated. Anyways..

 

I like the idea about mounting the CF Adapter to the side of the Cart Tunnel. I will be investigating this. Thank you :) .

 

- Michael

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Just wanted to ask how far are you with designing the case. Could you share any pictures already? :)

 

 

I have a base design. I needed to get a final board to go forward. The problem is that such a case takes about 17 hours to print. Now, I have three printers, so that is not necessarily a problem, but that is a LOT of plastic & time, so I HAD put it on the back burner. It is jumping up and down for attention right now. The option should be less expensive than the Realan case, but I am still in the "Hmm, how do I make sure everybody gets what they need" phase.

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