Brand New Atari Jaguar Pro Controllers- For Sale!

[SumerNivek]

I was finally able to order my set today off the pre-order email! Looking forward to getting them.

Edited December 4, 2018 by SumerNivek

[ave1]

What does the dpad feel like?

It feels nice- it has a good amount of roll or swivel to it, but not too much. It also is slightly larger than the 1993 Jaguar controller D-pad and is a little less clicky when you're changing directions.

 

Is it the perfect D-pad? I wouldn't say that... but it's very good. Certainly a great controller all around.

[+-^CrossBow^-]

So, Sk1p and myself ordered a pair each.

 

We got one good pad and one horrific pad each. The horror pads had virtually no response on up/left on the dpad. Zero tactile feedback. Nasty!

 

So, we took one apart. The dpad itself fits into its holder perfectly both ways vertically, with the flat side at the top and the bottom. The horror pads both had the flat side at the bottom. We swapped it around, and now we have 2 good pads each.

 

The horror pad is on the left, and is almost flat to the base. The good pad on the right is raised.

 

Bad v Good.png

 

Easy thing for Chinese factory workers on minimum wages not to give a damn about, I guess

 

Anyway. got 2 good pads now. End result: success.

 

I suspect there are more like these bad ones out there and people either don't know any better or are being polite

 

Starwander: You might want to check this before shipping any more.

 

Cyrano, I'm confused by this. Flat side? I took mine apart last night to look at this and didn't see anything different on my dpad around it. It certainly doesn't seem to change height depending on how you pop it in as it will fit in all 4 directions on the one I have at least. So again I'm not quite following. Did you by chance take pics of the inside to show specifically what you are talking about?

[+CyranoJ]

 

Cyrano, I'm confused by this. Flat side? I took mine apart last night to look at this and didn't see anything different on my dpad around it. It certainly doesn't seem to change height depending on how you pop it in as it will fit in all 4 directions on the one I have at least. So again I'm not quite following. Did you by chance take pics of the inside to show specifically what you are talking about?

 

Only the two I posted, but I might take one apart again if nobody else does. If you hold the pad flat in front of you eyes level with the top of the number pad, one orientation of the dpad rises much higher than the other 7 possible ways to fit it.

[+remowilliams]

I can't say that I noticed anything eyeballing the height or even looking at the dpad piece itself that would really indicate which way it should go, or for that matter that placing it differently would have any effect at all.

 

That being said, I took both my pads apart and tried different placements - both pads have now gone from would never use to just fine. In the end one pad was a 180 degree difference, and the other was 90 degrees vs how they were originally situated. I've also done a little bit of shimming that CyranoJ recommended as well.

 

So a success story in the end for two new Pro Controllers

[PeterG]

I got the package from the post office today and gave the controllers a testgo tonight with some Raiden and Iron Soldier. I thought this might be the best way to check the directions for the dpad and also all the other buttons. First of all I must say that I am very impressed overall and I want to thank Starwander (and also Clint) for these project and pulling it through. It is as mentioned several times before a great feeling to get these things new in 2018. :-)

 

I had no bend pins but I do however have a slight issue on each of the controllers and I am hopeful that this thread will help me work it out.

 

1) One of the controllers feels perfect concerning the buttons but on the dpad it would sometimes tend to go "up" or diagonally up when I actually was pressing left. This doesn`t happen everytime but Cyranos observation made me think if this might have something to do with the right position of the pad. So I also would be really interested to know which would be the right position as I opened the controller, did not know what I was actually looking for and changed the position by chance. I think this improved the situation but before opening it up again I would like to know for sure. :-)

 

2) The other controllers Dpad felt perfect but on that one I observed mainly on the B button that it did not feel quite right as it was missing the tactile feedback when you press it down. Like it is a bit lower as on the other pad. The button reacted just fine but pressing it you would expect it do go down and come up a bit more. So I also opened that controller and took a look at the membrane beneath without seeing anything. I exchanged it with the one from button A trying to test if it makes a difference and also thinking that it would be better given that B is the main button in many games. This improved the situation a bit but the truth is that compared to the other pad all three action buttons on this one feel a bit mushy so I was wondering if anyone has an idea. This one is not a big deal actually as the buttons function perfectly otherwise and I just noticed this in direct comparasion to the original and the other pad.

 

I took two pictures, I thought that the height difference to the other pad (am I imagining things? :-)) may have something to do with the board beneath but I could not really make something out so I closed the pad up again to test some more.

 

 

 

 

 

Also did anyone else laugh when comparing the original with the new controller that while they took out the Atari logo, they did not need to take out the "Made in China" mark? :-)

[+-^CrossBow^-]

If you look at the shell really closely, you can see a rectangular flat spot where the Atari Logo would have been on these controllers. I was noticing it the other night when I was playing some Jag.

[Hyper_Eye]

1) One of the controllers feels perfect concerning the buttons but on the dpad it would sometimes tend to go "up" or diagonally up when I actually was pressing left. This doesn`t happen everytime but Cyranos observation made me think if this might have something to do with the right position of the pad. So I also would be really interested to know which would be the right position as I opened the controller, did not know what I was actually looking for and changed the position by chance. I think this improved the situation but before opening it up again I would like to know for sure. :-)

 

 

I had that problem. You can see the exact same behavior here.

 

 

This problem seems to be specific to the left direction as I experienced the issue on more than one controller. It is not a problem with the board or the connections. It only happens when using the d-pad while the controller is assembled. If you push the directions on the conductive pad each one works properly. I was able to fix it after a lot of trial and error. Open the controller, loosen the screw on the top board. On the d-pad side of the board (the right side when you are working inside of it) push up on the bottom of the board so as to shift it towards the top of the controller. While maintaining that pressure tighten the screw down very well. Reassemble and you should find that pushing left no longer results in a diagonal or "up" movement. I found that all of the d-pad directions worked as expected including the up+left diagonal. Shifting the board did not affect any other buttons.

[+CyranoJ]

Yes, these controllers are really excellent, but there is *something* a little off with them - and it seems to be a little different for everyone, which is to be expected given the assembly process.

 

It's nothing that can't be fixed, and nothing that would stop me getting another set, but they don't appear to be correct 'out of the bag'.

[phoenixdownita]

....

 

It's nothing that can't be fixed, and nothing that would stop me getting another set, but they don't appear to be correct 'out of the bag'.

We should put back a "Made in China" sticker

[PeterG]

 

I had that problem. You can see the exact same behavior here.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfw9CCJxJ_4

 

This problem seems to be specific to the left direction as I experienced the issue on more than one controller. It is not a problem with the board or the connections. It only happens when using the d-pad while the controller is assembled. If you push the directions on the conductive pad each one works properly. I was able to fix it after a lot of trial and error. Open the controller, loosen the screw on the top board. On the d-pad side of the board (the right side when you are working inside of it) push up on the bottom of the board so as to shift it towards the top of the controller. While maintaining that pressure tighten the screw down very well. Reassemble and you should find that pushing left no longer results in a diagonal or "up" movement. I found that all of the d-pad directions worked as expected including the up+left diagonal. Shifting the board did not affect any other buttons.

Thank you for the tip I will try that out.

 

Still if anyone could give an indication about what the right position for the d pad orientation is, it would be appreciated, I'd rather avoid to open up the controller too often.

[KraZ]

Controllers are fine. They don't feel cheap, they don't creak, plastics feels solid. Bottom line they compare very favorably to the stock quality controllers. I don't feel like I'm adding a lot to the conversation at this point...

 

*However*, I did want to add that one of my controller came chipped on one side and bits of plastics where rattling inside indicating it may have been damaged before shipping (the shipping box was in good shape). That same controller when plugged in bent a pin.... I felt cursed at the time but William came through and sent replacement tracking number within exactly 38s of my clicking "send" on the email.... I kid you not.

If that's not heroic product support I don't know what is.

 

Buy these with *absolute* confidence. Hands over fists! That is all.

As for my bent pin it may have been due to the fact that the rows of pins where sort of angled in relation to the body of the plug. I blame this on nothing more than manufacturing teething problems but do be careful!

Edited December 6, 2018 by KraZ

[leech]

We should put back a "Made in China" sticker

They do say Made in China on the back

[leech]

Controllers are fine. They don't feel cheap, they don't creak, plastics feels solid. Bottom line they compare very favorably to the stock quality controllers. I don't feel like I'm adding a lot to the conversation at this point...

 

*However*, I did want to add that one of my controller came chipped on one side and bits of plastics where rattling inside indicating it may have been damaged before shipping (the shipping box was in good shape). That same controller when plugged in bent a pin.... I felt cursed at the time but William came through and sent replacement tracking number within exactly 38s of my clicking "send" on the email.... I kid you not.

If that's not heroic product support I don't know what is.

 

Buy these with *absolute* confidence. Hands over fists! That is all.

As for my bent pin it may have been due to the fact that the rows of pins where sort of angled in relation to the body of the plug. I blame this on nothing more than manufacturing teething problems but do be careful!

Unlike the Atari Flashback, which does feel cheap, plastics do creek and they weirdly put the HDMI on the side...

[Gummy Bear]

on the side...

PC Engine style!

[PeterG]

So after some more fiddling around partial success!

 

1) Going by Hyper-Eye`s tip I managed to fix the D-pad it works perfectly now. But maybe I pushed a bit to hard because it came with the cost that now the Z button on that controller became a bit more unresponsive and does not register every input unless it is pressed firmly. So I will have to fiddle around some more for the perfect balance it seems.

 

2) Also tried a few things with the "mushy" buttons on the second controller. Turns out two of the membranes underneath behave differently than the other ones, one of them being really weak and the other one a bit less so. I changed them between A and C and Z and Y and now the A B C buttons are perfect with Z being okayish and Y being the mushy button now. Still glad I could find at least a partial solution, you can`t make out a difference looking at them so I don`t know what causes the different behaviour but still a question answered. Maybe I can get two replacement membranes and I can fix this controller a hundred percent.

[Hyper_Eye]

So after some more fiddling around partial success!

 

1) Going by Hyper-Eye`s tip I managed to fix the D-pad it works perfectly now. But maybe I pushed a bit to hard because it came with the cost that now the Z button on that controller became a bit more unresponsive and does not register every input unless it is pressed firmly. So I will have to fiddle around some more for the perfect balance it seems.

 

I am going to play around with one a bit more. I didn't have a problem with the buttons after doing this but I would like to see if the board needs to be pushed up on the d-pad side or if the problem can be resolved by pushing the entire board up. If that works it might be less likely to decrease the Z button sensitivity. I will report back with any findings.

Edited December 7, 2018 by Hyper_Eye

[steve-vx]

Hi, I have also received the new pro-controllers yesterday. I have only tested them briefly but compared to my original pro-controller they feel and play exactly the same. Great work, really. What others experience happened to me with the original Jag-pads. After disassembling them it was always a bit of a trial-and-error game to get the dpad to work correctly again. All in all I am very happy with these controllers and can only pay the highest respect to those who picked up the gauntlet and went through all the steps. I guess finding a good manufacturer could have been the hardest challenge.

[+grips03]

Great game to test Left, Right, Up, Down is the Saxon select screen on Defender of the Crown. It will help show if you press left and it goes left and up, even when you are just trying to go left.

[+CyranoJ]

The numbers being printed a row below where they are on the regular pad is REALLY throwing me off.

 

I know this is how the real-deal is, but it just feels so wrong, lol - Anyone else noticed?

 

[edit]

 

Maybe we need overlays with the original number layout on them? HAHA

[PeterG]

Wouldn`t have noticed in a million years. :-)

 

Good news is, I fixed my controllers after some more fiddling aroung, so aside from 1 button that does not have the right feedback but works fine otherwise (I put this one on Y as I figured I do not use it that often and for symmetry reasons. ) everything else feels great now and I never want to open up these controllers again.

[+grips03]

The numbers being printed a row below where they are on the regular pad is REALLY throwing me off.

 

I know this is how the real-deal is, but it just feels so wrong, lol - Anyone else noticed?

 

[edit]

 

Maybe we need overlays with the original number layout on them? HAHA

 

We tried entering cheat code into Wolfenstein and we kept messing up. My son figured out the issue of numbers being printed differently than stock pad.

[+LS650]

1) Going by Hyper-Eye`s tip I managed to fix the D-pad it works perfectly now.

At first I thought the D-pad on both of my controllers was perfect... but most of the games I've played have been strictly left-right games such as Super Burnout, Tempest, etc.

I then tried playing Wolfenstein 3D with both Pro-pads. One is fine, but the second showed an annoying "up-drift" when strafing to the left. Right was fine.

 

I took the controller apart and immediately noticed that the brown PCB board under the pad and fire buttons was crooked by a few degrees. As suggested previously, I loosened the single screw that holds the brown PCB in place. I nudged the board's right side up so the board was now properly aligned. Tightened down the single screw.

 

Fired up Wolfenstein 3D and now the same controller strafes perfectly. It's a very easy fix; I just hope the board doesn't move out of alignment too easily.

[+grips03]

I took the controller apart and immediately noticed that the brown PCB board under the pad and fire buttons was crooked by a few degrees. As suggested previously, I loosened the single screw that holds the brown PCB in place. I nudged the board's right side up so the board was now properly aligned. Tightened down the single screw.

 

Much better now.

 

Great tip for controller that goes left and up, when just pressing left.

 

Not sure if pcb will move during normal use, but I suppose a small dab of hot glue could be used as a sort of shim at the tabs that align the brown pcb.

[ultramecha]

You should make a redesigned atari 5200 controller.