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Brand New Atari Jaguar Pro Controllers- For Sale!


Starwander

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In going back to the d-pad issue. I've only just tried to use one of my two controllers so I don't know about the other one. But the One I've been using has the issue where it will go up left frequently when just trying to move left. I have rotated my d-pad in all directions testing each time..and no change in how it feels, looks or handles. So I'm still not understanding this Flat side that Cyrano mentioned before as the d-pad in this controller looks to be the same height on all the pegs on it and level as can be. I do think that perhaps the left or up pad on the PCB might be need to be adjusted a tad so that up/left isn't so easy to do. I have similar issues with my converted NES to 7800 pads as well.

 

The Left/up issue is really noticeable on a game like Wolf 3D for instance and I would assume Doom as well though I don't own that version of the game since I only ever played that on PC and still do.

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In going back to the d-pad issue. I've only just tried to use one of my two controllers so I don't know about the other one. But the One I've been using has the issue where it will go up left frequently when just trying to move left. I have rotated my d-pad in all directions testing each time..and no change in how it feels, looks or handles. So I'm still not understanding this Flat side that Cyrano mentioned before as the d-pad in this controller looks to be the same height on all the pegs on it and level as can be. I do think that perhaps the left or up pad on the PCB might be need to be adjusted a tad so that up/left isn't so easy to do. I have similar issues with my converted NES to 7800 pads as well.

 

The Left/up issue is really noticeable on a game like Wolf 3D for instance and I would assume Doom as well though I don't own that version of the game since I only ever played that on PC and still do.

 

Did you try my fix in this post: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/271862-brand-new-atari-jaguar-pro-controllers-for-sale/?p=4171350

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Read Hyper_Eye's fix. I had to go this with one of my Pro-Controllers (the other was fine). The brown PCB board in the pad doesn't seem to be quite perfectly lined up when assembled at the factory.

Edited by ls650
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I have not tried this and I will tonight. But you know I thought it was damn strange that there weren't small pegs and holes in the PCB for proper alignment already and just the single center mount screw? I can see how there would be enough place in it to cause issues. I might even try adding a small star lock washer to the screw when I tighten it to make sure it holds fast.

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I might even try adding a small star lock washer to the screw when I tighten it to make sure it holds fast.

I folded a yellow sticky note until it was the width needed to offset the board and wedged it in place along with tightening the screw with extra force as recommended in Hyper Eye's original post.

Works like a charm :)

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I folded a yellow sticky note until it was the width needed to offset the board and wedged it in place along with tightening the screw with extra force as recommended in Hyper Eye's original post.

Works like a charm icon_smile.gif

This does indeed work?! I took a different approach to it though. Since I was already working on something else at the time, I took about 2cm of a zip tie I cut off and folded that in half. Makes it about 2-3MM I'd guess and just wedged it on the far right side of the controller PCB under the d-pad section with the screw loosened. Sure enough there is some up and down play on that PCB... Guess some guidance pegs should have been added to alight it more accurately or the contract pads on the PCBs made smaller in size.

 

I even used a red colored one to make it more legit...LOL

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I had that problem. You can see the exact same behavior here.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfw9CCJxJ_4

 

This problem seems to be specific to the left direction as I experienced the issue on more than one controller. It is not a problem with the board or the connections. It only happens when using the d-pad while the controller is assembled. If you push the directions on the conductive pad each one works properly. I was able to fix it after a lot of trial and error. Open the controller, loosen the screw on the top board. On the d-pad side of the board (the right side when you are working inside of it) push up on the bottom of the board so as to shift it towards the top of the controller. While maintaining that pressure tighten the screw down very well. Reassemble and you should find that pushing left no longer results in a diagonal or "up" movement. I found that all of the d-pad directions worked as expected including the up+left diagonal. Shifting the board did not affect any other buttons.

What game is that?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Now that all the quirks are settled, isn't it time for someone to submit this as big news on the main page, just click the submit news links on the original possible run link and have at it.

This should get them moving. And since you can use them with all Atari's (albeit with adapter connectors) Why it's just perfect for us all.

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Sorry for not posting again sooner have been swamped with work. During the Holidays most everyone wants days off so lots of extra shifts to cover. It seems there have been some minor issues here and there that have been discovered however it is great to see they are easily fixable. I really appreciate the great input from everyone here that has worked on perfecting these. I continue to hope people will enjoy these and get more interested in this great system.

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You should make a redesigned atari 5200 controller.

 

Atariguy1021 was working on a jaguar controller to 5200 adapter in 2017, but disappeared without a trace in 2018. It was part of my motivation for getting the Jaguar Pro controllers. Oh, well.

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Atariguy1021 was working on a jaguar controller to 5200 adapter in 2017, but disappeared without a trace in 2018. It was part of my motivation for getting the Jaguar Pro controllers. Oh, well.

I found that thread as well. I have a 3D printer now, and think we should get a community effort going for making an adapter.

I think it can be a straight across thing, except we would maybe want to figure out how to copy the Jag's reset mechanism (# and *) then Pause to Option and the start button. Not sue what to use C for, unless just a copy of A or B.

 

Sure would be easier I think to play Adventure 2 with!

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I found that thread as well. I have a 3D printer now, and think we should get a community effort going for making an adapter.

I think it can be a straight across thing, except we would maybe want to figure out how to copy the Jag's reset mechanism (# and *) then Pause to Option and the start button. Not sue what to use C for, unless just a copy of A or B.

 

Sure would be easier I think to play Adventure 2 with!

 

The pro-controller is really the best controller with a keypad. I would like to see an adapter or hacked controller made for the ColecoVision and Intellivision as well as the 5200. A lot to ask, so I would be happy with one for now. I don't think it would work for the INtv because the dpad would not be 16-way.

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