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Brand New Atari Jaguar Pro Controllers- For Sale!

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That is either A or C is held down, can't remember which.

Thanks CJ, I've pressed all the buttons and they seem to respond fine, I just haven't cracked that second one open yet, and, to be honest, wouldn't entirely know what I'm looking for if it wasn't something major. lol

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I noticed some of my pro pad reproductions had mushy d-pads and thought this might help others. If you're having d-pad issues in general give it a try. (I modded some into USB controllers so ignore that Raphnet circuit on the far left.)

 

I believe the white ribbon cable that connects the two PCBs applies tension to whichever board was screwed down last and slides it out of alignment. All you have to do is unscrew the brown board and pull it down to the bottom retaining tabs and then screw it back tight.

post-2070-0-35414000-1550971694_thumb.jpg

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Yes, I did that a while back and it solved the D-pad mushiness. Your photo will be very helpful to others!

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Does anyone have any problems with the keypad? Neither of my two reset at all when using asterisk and pound / hash. One of them has a problem with one of the numbers...either 4 or 6 I think.

 

I havent pulled them apart to see if it is an easy fix, but I think I may have lucked out. Any suggestions anyone?

 

I will contact Starwander ASAP to work out a solution. I would love to do an official review and publish it online plus side by side comparison with the originals but I would like to hold off until this is solved. That aside, they are amazing.

Edited by skip
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I noticed some of my pro pad reproductions had mushy d-pads and thought this might help others. If you're having d-pad issues in general give it a try. (I modded some into USB controllers so ignore that Raphnet circuit on the far left.)

 

I believe the white ribbon cable that connects the two PCBs applies tension to whichever board was screwed down last and slides it out of alignment. All you have to do is unscrew the brown board and pull it down to the bottom retaining tabs and then screw it back tight.

Great post, thank you very much

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Hey apparently this is my first post but I've been following these forums for a few years :ahoy:

 

Anyway I was wondering, is anyone able to confirm whether the postage price to the UK includes any customs/taxes? Or is it literally just for postage and I should anticipate a possible extra customs bill?

 

Thanks and hello! :-D

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Hey apparently this is my first post but I've been following these forums for a few years :ahoy:

 

Anyway I was wondering, is anyone able to confirm whether the postage price to the UK includes any customs/taxes? Or is it literally just for postage and I should anticipate a possible extra customs bill?

 

Thanks and hello! :-D

You may get some import fees however they should not be terrible. The shipping charged is just for the actual shipping from the US to UK

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You may get some import fees however they should not be terrible. The shipping charged is just for the actual shipping from the US to UK

 

Cool thanks, I thought that might be the case and importing anything here seems like chaos at the moment anyway. But I have family in Connecticut so I'll get them shipped there instead and pick them up when I'm over there. Now I have to decide whether to get just 1 or stretch to 2...

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Cool thanks, I thought that might be the case and importing anything here seems like chaos at the moment anyway. But I have family in Connecticut so I'll get them shipped there instead and pick them up when I'm over there. Now I have to decide whether to get just 1 or stretch to 2...

Two of course! :)

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You gotta have at least two, 4 would be even better if you ever play multitap games, and 6 would be even smarter in case one or two get stolen or when they sell out and the price rockets!!!!

Go with 8!

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You gotta have at least two, 4 would be even better if you ever play multitap games, and 6 would be even smarter in case one or two get stolen or when they sell out and the price rockets!!!!

Go with 8!

One fellow here as purchased 16 pairs. More the merrier I say

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I am looking into getting some Atari Jaguar controller extension cables made. Hope to have some news soon.

 

Awesome! I'll take.... 16 :P

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Can't sign in, register.

 

I'm able to sign in and had several orders come in today. Please send me a PM and I'll help you out.

 

Thanks,

 

..Al

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Took some time to crack the pro controllers open again tonight, unfortunately I didn't gain any ground, there's no left / up issue on either controller I've noticed, but no matter how I seem to adjust the boards or screws, I can't get them to stop trying to button press themselves. When I boot up AvP it asks me if I want to erase eeprom or Predator vision keeps shooting on and off, which I believe means the Option, * and # keys are having issues still? I'm not quite handy enough to know exactly how to fix my issues, but it seems the simple guide above isn't working for me.

Either way I'm not too troubled, but it's back to the ol' three button again.

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My awesome wife got me a pair of these from AA for Christmas!  They look and feel great.  Thanks Wifey and Starwander.😁

 

20191228_112739.jpg

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On 4/19/2019 at 7:47 AM, Stage_1_Boss said:

Took some time to crack the pro controllers open again tonight, unfortunately I didn't gain any ground, there's no left / up issue on either controller I've noticed, but no matter how I seem to adjust the boards or screws, I can't get them to stop trying to button press themselves. When I boot up AvP it asks me if I want to erase eeprom or Predator vision keeps shooting on and off, which I believe means the Option, * and # keys are having issues still? I'm not quite handy enough to know exactly how to fix my issues, but it seems the simple guide above isn't working for me.

Either way I'm not too troubled, but it's back to the ol' three button again.

I know this is a late reply but it's possible there is a wiring short for those specific buttons or the 74HC logic gates (the two small chips soldered behind the number keypad) are flaking out.

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With more hours at home (I'm essential to my lab, but I'm splitting hours with others to allow several projects to continue), I've actually had a little time for gaming.  I've been trying out the controller I bought last year.  It is pretty great, with one exception: my A button doesn't work.  I haven't removed the pads and cracked it open yet, but I will soon.  I'm expecting to find a bad solder point or something simple.  I haven't waded through all 39 pages of the thread yet to see if this has been reported by others.

 

-Eric

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I put mine up for sale for anyone looking for one. Didn't get along with the d-pad. Maybe you will.

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1 hour ago, Mad Scientist said:

With more hours at home (I'm essential to my lab, but I'm splitting hours with others to allow several projects to continue), I've actually had a little time for gaming.  I've been trying out the controller I bought last year.  It is pretty great, with one exception: my A button doesn't work.  I haven't removed the pads and cracked it open yet, but I will soon.  I'm expecting to find a bad solder point or something simple.  I haven't waded through all 39 pages of the thread yet to see if this has been reported by others.

 

-Eric

No luck.  The A button (and X, probably) don't align properly with the carbon footprint on the brown board.  There is a slight amount of play in the positioning of that board, but not enough to help.  The D-pad elements are perfect, but they prevent any slide towards the button-side.  The pad on the board does work if the plunger is positioned perfectly; under those conditions, the boot is fully on the board, unlike the normal hanging off status for my A & X.  I used an options menu of Super Burnout for testing, as A takes you out of the control setup screen.  I wish I had tested this thoroughly long ago.

Edited by Mad Scientist

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