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DanthWader

7800 Controller Project

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You're not the first person to mention the flex circuit in the 5200 controller to me, I personally have not torn into a 5200 controller. Doesn't Best have some kind of "gold" replacement. Not sure if he means Gold as in the metal or "Gold" as a tier.

 

Gold, as in the material. I recently purchased a kit from him, and it was worth every penny.

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You're not the first person to mention the flex circuit in the 5200 controller to me, I personally have not torn into a 5200 controller. Doesn't Best have some kind of "gold" replacement. Not sure if he means Gold as in the metal or "Gold" as a tier.

 

They do but they're expensive. A thin PCB replacement coupled with Dome Switches* would be cheaper, would be longer lasting, and would play better.

 

Curt has shown pictures of the mechanics behind the self-centering feature of the CX52L over on Facebook so couple that with the suggestion above and 5200 fans could finally redeem their CX52s without blowing $50 on "gold" kits.

 

 

 

 

*Dan Kramer used Dome Switches on the kick-ass CX53 Trak-Ball Controller for the 5200. Of course, that controller cost nearly $100 MSRP back then. ProLine indeed.

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They do but they're expensive. A thin PCB replacement coupled with Dome Switches* would be cheaper, would be longer lasting, and would play better.

 

Curt has shown pictures of the mechanics behind the self-centering feature of the CX52L over on Facebook so couple that with the suggestion above and 5200 fans could finally redeem their CX52s without blowing $50 on "gold" kits.

 

 

 

 

*Dan Kramer used Dome Switches on the kick-ass CX53 Trak-Ball Controller for the 5200. Of course, that controller cost nearly $100 MSRP back then. ProLine indeed.

 

 

yes you can get thin pcb's something like 7 thou core with 1 ounce copper on both sides is about like handling a sheet of paper, just make sure your bend radius is not too sharp, its still FR4 and at some point will snap

 

one of the one's I did for work is 14 thou core with 2 ounce copper on both sides and its like handling a twist tie (it does a right angle bend but the radius is like 2 inches maybe smaller but its also got to bend like 15 degrees in the Y axis as well)

Edited by Osgeld
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yes you can get thin pcb's something like 7 thou core with 1 ounce copper on both sides is about like handling a sheet of paper, just make sure your bend radius is not too sharp, its still FR4 and at some point will snap

 

one of the one's I did for work is 14 thou core with 2 ounce copper on both sides and its like handling a twist tie (it does a right angle bend but the radius is like 2 inches maybe smaller but its also got to bend like 15 degrees in the Y axis as well)

I don't even know if I would want to delve into that project, aren't the new jag controllers being made have some kind of compatibility with the 5200? I'm not entirely sure, maybe it was some kind of connector/adapter/dongle. either way, if i did anything with a 5200 would be redesigning that thing from the ground up, cause, YUK!

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I just recently returned to the forums... will be ordering this! Them are some purty controllers.

 

Now my dream controller for 7800/2600 would be a modified version of the Virtual Boy controller that acts as player 1 and 2 for games like Robotron, Indiana Jones and any other game that required players to reach for player 2 controller.

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How/where do I order this? Waiting on stock or something?

Check it out in the AtariAge marketplace here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/275067-atari-7800-2600-sms-nes-style-controllers-v12/

 

But they are sold-out, I have two controllers left that I will put in the shop very soon so keep an eye out!

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it had 2 ports with 4 directions a fire and 2 analog inputs each just like the 7800

 

some of the 5200's had 4 ports though

Edited by Osgeld

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Too bad that the 7800 had no multi-tap... (I know the 2600 had four controller ports.)

2600 has only 2 ports. And no games were programmed for 4 player in the first place so would not matter.

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Batch 3 is in the works check the marketplace out for more updated info on how to get a hold of these.

 

post-61918-0-66100800-1521416918_thumb.jpg

 

I'm still waiting on another batch of boards to get here. I will message everyone on the waiting list first then offer the controllers publicly.

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In version 2 i'm adding an option to jump start and select from left and right to PIN 7 which isn't used. maybe mod the console to the pause circuit from pin7 @ the port? Not entirely sure how that would work but wanted the option for a ground switch in the form of start and select...

 

attachicon.gifAtari 7800 V1 2 NES PCB 3D.JPG

 

I also agree I do want to axe them, and get those sweet delicious "atari" nes shells.

I am confused here. Pin 7 is Atari VCC and pin 5 is Sega VCC. You should never connect a button directly between either of these two pins and GND (pin 8 ) or you could risk shorting out your Atari or Sega console [!!!]

 

That said, as much as I like the 3d printed overlay design, there are tons of sellers out there on eBay and Etsy selling all sorts of themed NES controller overlays in vinyl. Not one of them has an Atari themed overlay, despite the 7800 conversion mod being popular for years before you started making your own replacement PCBs.

 

I need an Atari overlay so I quit confusing my 7800 modded NES pad with my other NES controllers. I tried applying a chrome Atari decal once but it rubbed off in short order. I also bought Yoshi and Kirby themed NES overlays for my plain old vanilla NES pads and they were quite nice and comfortable. I'm just not sure if the 3D printed ribbed texture would bother me over smooth vinyl.

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I'm just not sure if the 3D printed ribbed texture would bother me over smooth vinyl.

 

Actually his 3d printed decals are totally smooth on the top and rough on the bottom. It is apparent he is printing them with the side you see face down on his printing surface so it is actually a very smooth finish. I like my 3 controllers I've gotten from Danth quite a lot and always have on at the ready along with an epyx 500xj and Tac-2 for 2600 games.

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I am confused here. Pin 7 is Atari VCC and pin 5 is Sega VCC. You should never connect a button directly between either of these two pins and GND (pin 8 ) or you could risk shorting out your Atari or Sega console [!!!]

 

Just looked at this again, and at least on his lasted controller, those start and select buttons aren't even present. They are still there on the PCB I believe, but the actual buttons aren't since they are covered up with the decal now. Originally on his first batch, these existed and were just repeats of the left and right directions. So you could use them for games that only required left and right motion like Galaga or something similar. At least in following the schems this is what they appeared to be doing?

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Actually his 3d printed decals are totally smooth on the top and rough on the bottom. It is apparent he is printing them with the side you see face down on his printing surface so it is actually a very smooth finish. I like my 3 controllers I've gotten from Danth quite a lot and always have on at the ready along with an epyx 500xj and Tac-2 for 2600 games.

Thanks for this tip. I sent him a PM asking about an overlay. It is kind of frustrating that nobody makes Atari themed vinyl overlays for NES since there are so many designs available, some of them even for 16-bit franchises that didn't appear on NES.

 

From my 3d-printed controller shell sample, as I stated in the review, the sides of the shell are smooth and the ribbed texture is kept inside.

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Thanks for this tip. I sent him a PM asking about an overlay.

Just remember there isn't any adhesive on it and it is thin 3d printed filament. Danth advised me to use the 2-part epoxy you get at home depot and places like as that is what he uses on the completed controllers. I actually a few of the overlays that he tossed in the box on my last order so I could modify and retrofit them onto my 2 previous controllers I bought from him. I haven't actually attached them yet, but I did get the old vinyl decals removed that came with them and cleaned up ready for it.

 

 

From my 3d-printed controller shell sample, as I stated in the review, the sides of the shell are smooth and the ribbed texture is kept inside.

You meant the 3D printed Cartridge Shell right?

 

Still need to send him example pics of the Mateos cart modifications to see if he can do something that is much cleaner to offer those who have Mateos 16 in 1 flash carts.

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Thanks for this tip. I sent him a PM asking about an overlay. It is kind of frustrating that nobody makes Atari themed vinyl overlays for NES since there are so many designs available, some of them even for 16-bit franchises that didn't appear on NES.

 

From my 3d-printed controller shell sample, as I stated in the review, the sides of the shell are smooth and the ribbed texture is kept inside.

 

 

well I have been thinking on how to do it with my vinyl cutter, I don't want to use anything that has been printed on as it would wear off pretty quick unless done with real deal equipment and that cost money

 

I thought with the grey controllers if I used a cutout of black vinyl and avoided the moulding sprew that might work (or grey stickers on the black controllers)

 

another option would just to use a solid sheet cut around the plastic features, like have a woodgrain and black controller

Edited by Osgeld
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well I have been thinking on how to do it with my vinyl cutter, I don't want to use anything that has been printed on as it would wear off pretty quick unless done with real deal equipment and that cost money

 

I thought with the grey controllers if I used a cutout of black vinyl and avoided the moulding sprew that might work (or grey stickers on the black controllers)

 

another option would just to use a solid sheet cut around the plastic features, like have a woodgrain and black controller

I've always fantasized the idea of aluminum overlays that have "7800" or "ATARI" stamped into them like the console or the prolines OR the XM. Personally that would completely finish this controller, full scale productions ready.

 

Will these be sold again preassembled?

 

Yes! Kits are live, check the marketplace for info about where to buy. But I plan on building about 20 this batch and selling 20 kits.

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Just remember there isn't any adhesive on it and it is thin 3d printed filament. Danth advised me to use the 2-part epoxy you get at home depot and places like as that is what he uses on the completed controllers. I actually a few of the overlays that he tossed in the box on my last order so I could modify and retrofit them onto my 2 previous controllers I bought from him. I haven't actually attached them yet, but I did get the old vinyl decals removed that came with them and cleaned up ready for it.

 

 

You meant the 3D printed Cartridge Shell right?

 

Still need to send him example pics of the Mateos cart modifications to see if he can do something that is much cleaner to offer those who have Mateos 16 in 1 flash carts.

I've used Super Glue normally when I have a plastic bonded to plastic thing. I wrecked a gorgeous translucent cart shell with superglue on the inside for an LED mod. I waited a few minutes until the glue set then sealed it up.

 

Bad move on my part, as the glue continues to "vent" over a 24 hour period or so, resulting in crazing all over the inside of the shell which AFAIK can't be removed. Goof Off might clean it up but it has acetone in it which will attack the cart plastics.

 

The crazing doesn't show in the video I did because I took the video immediately after sealing the cart. Couple days later when I picked it up and there were crazing everywhere, fingerprints visible inside the cart, and no amount of cleaning will take it off...

 

= = = = = = = = = =

 

I've used 2-part epoxy with the applicator tips before, but they only give you two tips to use with each tube, so after I use up the tips I have to throw it away. Each applicator is only good for one use as the resin will harden inside it after a few minutes. And the mix it yourself with a toothpick stuff makes a horrible mess. I'll never use those again...

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Well I've tried to use the Gorilla super glue and it just doesn't last that long. I did go ahead and attach one of the extra decals that Danth sent me in my last order onto one of my older controllers I bought from him previously. This decal has the black with silver Atari logo so it is the opposite of what he usually provides. I ended up using my contact cement as a test of it I used on two smaller pieces of plastic, held together really well while after it fully dries, it becomes rubbery and can be carefully pulled loose in the future if you wish to do so. It doesn't seem to seep out the edges much and doesn't take a lot to hold stuff together. But you do have to clean both surfaces well, apply it evenly to both surfaces. Then you wait about 12 - 15min and then apply together. It will bond nearly instantly at that point but you still have a few secs to move things around if needed. But no clamps needed. I will update this when it has dried a bit and show the reverse printed decal in addition to the standard to give you an idea.

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Well too much time passed so I can't edit the post above, but here are my two controllers from Danth showing each decal. The on the left is the standard silver with black logo. The one on the right is one of his earlier controllers that I had to modify a bit showing the opposite color scheme decal. Apologies for the semi crappy pic, this is crop out from my latest YT video where I have these featured at the beginning of the video.

 

The modifications I had to made on the second controller on the right were to remove the select and start buttons, and then used my dremel to remove the plastic edge around the start and select buttons to level that area out. In fact, that mark you see in the bottom of the controller just lower center left is where the dremel slipped from my hands...ugh. Still you get the idea on what it would look like. Oh, I also had to use my x-acto knife to trim away additional material on the inside of the squares for the fire buttons as they were originally overlapping a bit around the inner edges.

 

post-6-0-64419600-1522763271_thumb.jpg

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