Mr Robot Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 Is there room under the U1MB in a 1088XLE to fit a covox? It's a pretty cheap addon $15. https://lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=192 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 Is there room under the U1MB in a 1088XLE to fit a covox? It's a pretty cheap addon $15. https://lotharek.pl/productdetail.php?id=192 "XLE"? You mean "XEL"? Nope - other stuff in the way: And if you meant, "XLD" ... Well, maybe. It'd have to be pretty low-profile: The CPLD and other downward-facing components on the U1MB as mounted this way would certainly make it tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 Yes I typoed the XEL, I figured it probably wouldn't fit. I'm thinking I might get away with mounting it under the mobo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfollowell Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 (edited) OK, for those interested, here is my the fpd file for my case lid with the corrected plts for the model number lettering and the solid fuji. After Mike at Front Panel Express was able to work on my files, the price is down to a much more manageable $103.97! And it looks virtually identical to my original. I asked Mike to send the correct plt files separately as well, but here is the whole fpd file, in case anyone wants to copy things over from my design to yours. Is anyone aware of a way to export a plt from a FPD design? 1088XEL Realan Top with Dual CF with-cart & fuji.zip Edited April 19, 2019 by bfollowell 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 Yes I typoed the XEL, I figured it probably wouldn't fit. I'm thinking I might get away with mounting it under the mobo Or stack more male to female headers to get the height you need under the U1MB. OK, for those interested, here is my the fpd file for my case lid with the corrected plts for the model number lettering and the solid fuji. After Mike at Front Panel Express was able to work on my files, the price is down to a much more manageable $103.97! And it looks virtually identical to my original. Yeah nice folks over at FPE. But I think you forgot to attach the new file to your post . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfollowell Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 Yeah nice folks over at FPE. But I think you forgot to attach the new file to your post . Yeah, you're right, I certainly did! Check again. I noticed almost immediately after I posted, and corrected. Somehow, no matter how fast I was, you got in and read the original before I updated. Thanks for catching though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 Got it . Yep that works much better . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 Yes I typoed the XEL, I figured it probably wouldn't fit. I'm thinking I might get away with mounting it under the mobo I mean, you *could* make it work. It depends on how you make the headers. There are options out there that could raise the U1M a bit higher. I am not certain how much clearance the Covox needs, but I think it could be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfollowell Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 (edited) Mike at Front Panel Express sent the corrected plt files to me separately. Here are the plt files for the model label and the fuji if anyone is interested in using them in their own designs. After posting these, I looked at them a little closer from within FPD. They're outlines again, rather than being solid like I wanted, though the ones that Mike added to my FPD file are somehow solid, and use at least three different pens each, so I'm really not certain how he did that. Anyway, I guess what I'm saying is that, if you want to use either of these in your design, you'll probably be better off downloading my corrected FPD file a little further up-thread, and copying those resources over from my design to yours. Model Label & Fuji PLT Files.zip Edited April 20, 2019 by bfollowell 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted April 20, 2019 Share Posted April 20, 2019 I mean, you *could* make it work. It depends on how you make the headers. There are options out there that could raise the U1M a bit higher. I am not certain how much clearance the Covox needs, but I think it could be done. For $15 I might take a punt and hope I can install it. If not it can always go into my 800XL The postage from Poland is going to double the cost though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted April 27, 2019 Share Posted April 27, 2019 (edited) #Protip to any early 1088XEL builders: Do not, under any circumstances, accidentally grab the handy power jack and plug it into your XEL until you're certain that it's actually the 5 VDC XEL power jack and not the identical 9V AC 400/800/1050/1200XL PSU. Bad Things! are likely to happen. In my case I got relatively lucky - I only scrambled the settings on my Ultimate 1MB, damaged my XEL-CF-2 interface and fried the 8GB SandDisk Ultra CF card I had inserted in the machine. The 8GB card didn't just get scrambled or lose its formatting - it's so messed up my Windows machine doesn't even recognize it as a CF card when I plug it into the card reader. So today I had to buy a new CF card along with the parts to build an upgraded XEL-CF-3 interface. Expensive lesson here, but not as bad as it could have been had, say, my Ultimate 1MB and/or the Atari IC's been destroyed. Fortunately, everything else seems to work. Several passes of xram don't show any memory problems; stereo audio works; SIO access works; the built-in FTDI board works; both joysticks work in all directions as do both Fire buttons; all four paddle inputs work (tested with two sets of paddles and a 4-player game of Super Breakout running); mouse/Trak-Ball input works; and the SALT tests don't show any issues other than the ones you always get without a loopback box connected. I've run the machine several hours with games and demos running and don't see any graphical or audio problems. Even more fortunately for those of you who built or bought your machines after the first couple months, the barrel jack connector and PSU spec'd for the machine have been changed so you physically can't make this mistake in the future. The new jack and the old PSU don't physically fit together anymore. The root cause of my incident - besides my inattention! - was that I had moved my XEL over to a computer desk and TV where I'd previously had my 1200XL, and then had put my 1088XLD for awhile, since they both use the standard 9V AC Atari transformer. My oscilloscope is currently on that table and I had been taking measurements of both machines and comparing. When I moved both those computers away and put my XEL there in their place, I did not unplug and move the 9V AC brick like I ought to have. Edited April 27, 2019 by DrVenkman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted April 28, 2019 Share Posted April 28, 2019 (edited) I remember the conversation I had about changing the jack size or using a barrel size adaption tip on the jack and connector to prevent this sort of thing... In fact I thought Mytek said he was considering making that change.... For those who did not want to change the jack or didn't have the ability to do so.. I think I suggested using the adaption parts with a little epoxy to hold them more permanently after they were inserted in the jack and on the cord.... If it's any consolation, you are not the first person to use the wrong cord.... and sadly I fear... not the last. Edited April 28, 2019 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted April 28, 2019 Share Posted April 28, 2019 Hi Doc. It did get changed to a unique size and re-specified in the BOM, although the re-spec'ed PSU disappeared from eBay months later. However using the new plug mm designation in an eBay search will show several alternatives, and of course MacRorie sells suitable replacements as well. Anyone who owns an XEL with the older power jack really should switch over to the new one for safety reasons. To not do so, is risking a potentially substantial loss of money in the event that you mix up your Atari 9 VAC PSU with the proper 5 VDC one. BTW, the respec'ed power jack shown in the BOM is a drop-in fit for the old one, and due to the nature of the pads, a pretty easy one to desolder from the board. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 Here is a quick and dirty video. I have attached some pictures as well. Let me know if I can help. I think it went OK, I got the VBXE installed and everything still works. I have yet to make the 13-pin din to GBS-8220 cable so I can test it but the 1088XEL firmware recognises the VBXE. A diagram was the only thing apart from the video that I didn't have that would have helped so I made one for future installers. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfollowell Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 The power adapter listed in the most recent official BOM is no longer available. I see several similar but I can't tell for certain if they are correct or not. Most of the ones I'm finding are positive at the center tip and negative around the outside. I just want to confirm that this is what is required for the 1088XEL. Is anyone able to confirm? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 The power adapter listed in the most recent official BOM is no longer available. I see several similar but I can't tell for certain if they are correct or not. Most of the ones I'm finding are positive at the center tip and negative around the outside. I just want to confirm that this is what is required for the 1088XEL. Is anyone able to confirm? Thanks. I have the ones necessary for either the old power connector (NOT recommended) or the new connector. Just let me know via PM. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+tf_hh Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Hi, has anybody an europe or chinese source for a 100% working PS/2 mouse attached to the 1088XEL? I´ve build mine now finally (took months due less time...), all is working fine, but non of my approx. 15 mice (all USB with adapters) works at the 1088XEL. I tested them, all of them work with an old 486 PC using PS/2. I used the newest Moustari Firmware. I build seven 1088XEL this time (for ABBUC members and friends), and tested all of them with my mice. I read anywhere, that only a few mouse models will work with the 1088XEL, but I didn´t found any list. Any help welcome. Thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roydea6 Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Mouse info is here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/272817-1088xel-atari-itx-motherboard-diy-builders-thread/?p=3926881 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleepy Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 (edited) Wow... this mouse is more expensive than my actual pc-setup (build with used parts! ) : source Sleepy Edited May 8, 2019 by Sleepy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 (edited) lmfao, lowest price as well... that's epay for you... real value is about 9.00 shipped give or take.... 20.00 on a good day for brand new old stock in a box... guess you just gotta haggle... Edited May 8, 2019 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleepy Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 (edited) Well, after a little searching I´ve got two used ones for 13€ incl. p&p (~$14) without haggling. Sleepy Edited May 8, 2019 by Sleepy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+tf_hh Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 Mouse info is here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/272817-1088xel-atari-itx-motherboard-diy-builders-thread/?p=3926881 That´s what I´m searching for... thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 A better search term for the appropriate mouse: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Logitech+Sbf96+Ps2+optical+mouse&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=Logitech+Sbf96+Ps2+mouse&LH_TitleDesc=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfollowell Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 I have the ones necessary for either the old power connector (NOT recommended) or the new connector. Just let me know via PM. I guess this would be the new one since it is from the most recent BOM dated 5/10/18. It's listed as Coaxial Power Jack 1.3 x 3.8 mm (CUI PJ-017D) from Mouser, part number 490-PJ-017D. Is anyone able to confirm that is the newest, recommended power connector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoSch Posted May 8, 2019 Share Posted May 8, 2019 (edited) Can I safely drive the 1088XEL (polarity and voltage considered) from a PicoPSU like this one: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B004QDP05C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ? I don't think it's a problem, but I'm not greatest electrical engineer on this planet Edited May 8, 2019 by JoSch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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