ndary Posted December 15, 2019 Share Posted December 15, 2019 I would love to see a picture how it turned out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted December 15, 2019 Share Posted December 15, 2019 18 hours ago, ndary said: Did anyone manage to create and print a 3D case for the 1088XEL? There are a couple of 3D printed cases here 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted December 15, 2019 Share Posted December 15, 2019 On 11/27/2019 at 12:37 PM, Bikerbob said: Has anyone done the H80 Case cover and back plate in PLA? any STL files? 1088XEL Rear Bezel.stl 1088XEL Realan Top with-cart.stl 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooloudtoowide Posted December 21, 2019 Share Posted December 21, 2019 On 12/14/2019 at 9:48 PM, ndary said: Did anyone manage to create and print a 3D case for the 1088XEL? I have done and I'm during the printing, I have adapted mITX case and done top & sides cover, as I love that board fits on the metal base. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooloudtoowide Posted December 27, 2019 Share Posted December 27, 2019 mine design it's almost ready (finished printing), need to clear print, install not visible button and dots. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikerbob Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 On 12/27/2019 at 5:55 PM, tooloudtoowide said: mine design it's almost ready (finished printing), need to clear print, install not visible button and dots. Did you use a whole spool for it? you have no opening for the cartridge slot? What size base did you need to print it? James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 On 1/1/2020 at 12:01 PM, Bikerbob said: you have no opening for the cartridge slot? Contrary to popular opinion, a cartridge in a 1088XEL is an option, not a requirement . Not much now days that hasn't been converted into a format that can load from the CF card, and of course you always have either the SIO or the built-in SIO2PC. So long as you have other stock and/or modified stock Atari 8-bit systems at your disposal, I see no great need to have a cartridge in an XEL. Besides look how clean that looks without any holes penetrating the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted January 2, 2020 Share Posted January 2, 2020 ... and there's a cart slot on the back ... ... which is where the joystick ports are too ... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockdoc2010 Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 well this kinda sucks. Powered up my XEL for the first time and I got nothing. I do have 5vdc in all the right spots, but i have no video at all. Using composite at the moment but no joy. I swapped out my U1MB and my Sally and my rom and my GTIA and still nothing. placed a jumper at OSC but nothing. Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockdoc2010 Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 On 12/5/2017 at 5:23 PM, Firedawg said: This thread has been created for the brave who are embarking on this 1088XEL project alone. This is a place to share your updates, questions, and issues during the course of your journey. Some have already started as others will begin later. Please share what you have done, and anything else that can be of value to everyone completing this board. I have my boards from McRorie, my BOM components from Digi-Key (1 item on Back-Order), UAV Rev D from Bryan, Sophia Board (requires updating, U1MB board (Candle version), which requires an update from v1 to v2. I will be also completing several XEL-CF-][ and JOY2PIC-STIK as well. I will provide updates on those builds too. I will be using a Xytronic 137ESD Solder Station. For the solder I'm using .015 diameter low residue flux core solder with 2.2% flux. It is great to solder with especial with small boards and tight areas where a flux mess is not appreciated. Below, I have soldered the 24 CAP 0.1UF (digi-key 399-9870-1-ND). More to come..... Special Thanks to Michael St. Pierre (mytekcontrols) for which none of this would have been possible!!! part number 399-9870-1-nd is not the same as in the BOM pn 399-4329-nd just wondering???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 They are exactly the same spec but the lead spacing is different. You can use either but will have to reform the legs on the 9870's to fit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bikerbob Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 On 12/15/2019 at 10:16 AM, Mr Robot said: 1088XEL Rear Bezel.stl 95.1 kB · 17 downloads 1088XEL Realan Top with-cart.stl 61.61 kB · 16 downloads Thanks so much. I am going to use these as a basis for mine. I have a relan h60 case.. but did not want to spend on the custom alum from FPE.. I own 3d printer and always looking for projects worth while.. this is!! James 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 (edited) @Bikerbob really wanted the lid that @DrVenkman designed so I did that one with all the lettering too. Creating this was non-trivial, I used Front Panel Designer, FreeCAD, Affinity Designer and Tinkercad to make this. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/ghBJIA9ZIoS Here's the back panel https://www.tinkercad.com/things/bMXy1l7BUMo Edited January 3, 2020 by Mr Robot Add back panel 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Nice work, @Mr Robot, but I'd prefer it if the back panel didn't have "Built by DrVenkman" on it (and maybe leave off the quote from the movie, too! ? ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 3 hours ago, DrVenkman said: Nice work, @Mr Robot, but I'd prefer it if the back panel didn't have "Built by DrVenkman" on it (and maybe leave off the quote from the movie, too! ? ) Your wish... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 5 minutes ago, Mr Robot said: Your wish... Thanks! As much as I'm glad people like the design I came up with, if I didn't build their machine my AA username probably shouldn't be on their systems. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockdoc2010 Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 22 hours ago, rockdoc2010 said: well this kinda sucks. Powered up my XEL for the first time and I got nothing. I do have 5vdc in all the right spots, but i have no video at all. Using composite at the moment but no joy. I swapped out my U1MB and my Sally and my rom and my GTIA and still nothing. placed a jumper at OSC but nothing. Douglas no worries.. nothing to see here.. move along... The VIDEO in is a much better place than the TV in.. The name is Dumass. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooloudtoowide Posted January 10, 2020 Share Posted January 10, 2020 On 1/1/2020 at 9:01 PM, Bikerbob said: Did you use a whole spool for it? you have no opening for the cartridge slot? What size base did you need to print it? James it's around 400g of filament of pure elements including the back but it's due to that I have printed it 100% infill. Elements are 4mm wide (I mean skeleton width). As for the cartridge slot - still thinking. I may redesign the left part of the Fuji to be removable and to uncover card slot as... I have joystick ports on the back and dual CF slot. I fitted cart tunnel in desing, but I wont fit them all as I wanted so I need to get rid of something. Actually cart slot is not that needed for me - I have a least two computers with set like Ultimate-VBXE-SIDE2 and A800 with Incognito/Supercard so apart CF3 they are more less similiar in possibilities with 1088XEL. And the case is reversed U so you can remove it, below is mITX frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filon Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 On 1/2/2018 at 10:07 PM, mytek said: You should be able to pick up that same signal on GTIA pin-28 and V-Gate pin-2 (you might want to verify that). And as a further check, you should see half that frequency at pin-37 on the CPU. Also check CPU pin-40 to see if it's high (+5V). Hello, everyone! I have done my soldering job, but got only blank screen on boot. No key click is audible and BOB LEDs blink in about 5-10 Hz rhythm symultaneously. Everything else seems fine - powers, grounds, LEDs, connections etc. I tried Michael's osc advice and got such results: OSC and GTIA pin-28 look fine with nice sinus (pardon my poor equipment): But Sally's 37th leg is quite different and unstable: Sally's power seems to be OK. What else should I check? Is it specific for some kind of bug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Filon, other than the strange ghost pattern, the pin-37 input clock for the CPU looks to be the correct frequency and the switching noise you are seeing isn't all that unusual, and somewhat dependent upon where you have your probe ground hooked up. If you connect the probe ground to pin-21 of the CPU I think you'll see a cleaner waveform, although do expect to see some over and under shoot on the edges, since the 74F08 buffering that clock signal will tend to do that. Don't pay any attention to the BOB LEDs if not connected to a PC, since they tend to blink faintly when the USB interface is left floating. All you can really do at this point is confirm that all your Atari VLSI chips are good, by swapping into another system, and if they are, then start looking for something not soldered or a solder bridge, or something in the wrong place and/or the wrong orientation. The 1088XEL is a proven design, so if it isn't working there is something other than the motherboard usually at fault. Good luck . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
towmater Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 Please help me. I have this much 1088 finished thus far. There are three microcontrollers required, where does one find the code to put on these? If I were to use a Sophia, would the VGATE MCU be needed? If I don't see a need for a mouse, is the MOUSE MCU required for the board to function? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+mytek Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 4 hours ago, towmater said: I have this much 1088 finished thus far. There are three microcontrollers required, where does one find the code to put on these? You can download the firmware from: AtariBits.com If you only require the PS/2 keyboard firmware, there are two options available at: https://ataribits.weebly.com/tk-ii-manual.html Quote If I were to use a Sophia, would the VGATE MCU be needed? No Quote If I don't see a need for a mouse, is the MOUSE MCU required for the board to function? No EDIT: I didn't notice that you were posting about a 1088XLD build and not an XEL. If you have a JOY2PIC programmer (highly recommended), then there is one download that will give you all the XLD flashers in one zipped file. However there are no hex files provided in that file if you wish to use a 3rd party programmer such as the PICkit. I should probably add those to that same zipped file (give me a day or two and I'll do that, and then post the file for download in the appropriate 1088XLD topic) DONE. Go Here for 1088XLD related posts and info: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filon Posted February 8, 2020 Share Posted February 8, 2020 On 1/27/2020 at 10:03 PM, mytek said: All you can really do at this point is confirm that all your Atari VLSI chips are good Thank you, Michael! You were absolutely right - it was faulty ANTIC. Now I have a smaller problem - system boots up just after plugging power cord on, switching on gives just more brightness and louder sound. It has to be a short circuit somewhere in power module. But I'm still happy to see boot screen and working system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj1307 Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 I have a question about TKII. Are pins 10, 11 and 12 of the PIC chip (START / SEL / OPT signals) in a high impedance state when the keyboard button is not pressed? Can I connect these signals safely to ground? I want to connect additional buttons to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bfollowell Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 I think I've probably seen it mentioned somewhere on here, but can't seem to find it now. Is there some great cleaning liquid that is better than anything else for cleaning up flux, etc. after a soldering session? Is IA as good as anything else? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.