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1088XEL Atari ITX Motherboard DIY Builders Thread

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Something of a side note, but I just noticed in everybody's photos that they have nice blue plastic no-ears DE9 plugs on their Joy-2-PICs, and I'm wondering where they come from? @mytek's schematic for the Joy-2-PIC has a Digi-key part number for the connector, but as far as I can tell that's a normal metal plug with ears.

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10 minutes ago, Eyvind Bernhardsen said:

Something of a side note, but I just noticed in everybody's photos that they have nice blue plastic no-ears DE9 plugs on their Joy-2-PICs, and I'm wondering where they come from? @mytek's schematic for the Joy-2-PIC has a Digi-key part number for the connector, but as far as I can tell that's a normal metal plug with ears.

Those are modified versions with the metal casing removed. However with the casing removed the 2 halves of the plastic holding the terminals will naturally want to come apart, so they will need to be glued together (Super Glue).

 

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38 minutes ago, mytek said:

Those are modified versions with the metal casing removed. However with the casing removed the 2 halves of the plastic holding the terminals will naturally want to come apart, so they will need to be glued together (Super Glue).

 

Aha! No wonder I couldn't find a supplier. Thanks, I thought I'd lost my internet search mojo :)

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I added an extern swap-button for the CF3-interface.

 

My first, intern solution, looked like this:

1001098426_1Swapintern.thumb.jpg.71b322247027a3d0cad1529d5fceef9c.jpg

 

But it was a bit inconvenient, because I always have to reach behind the computer and the LED was hard to see... ;-)

 

On ebay, I found an illuminated switch like this:

 

1818827938_ih-bh.jpg.bf71270ad7ab4a431f47b87fa07ecb75.jpg

 

Unfortunately, the description was somewhat ambiguous; the ordered part did not contain a button, but a switch. I replaced the switch and rewired the part so that the pushbutton and the LED are led out on their own lines to a four-pin jack plug:

 

313509966_6Swap_unit_extern.thumb.jpg.60a6eb613d25224397e30c73f51c2aa3.jpg

1841005116_4Swap-Button.thumb.jpg.47da51ebd859b7730983aface32ca04a.jpg

 

I had to rework one of the holes in the housing a bit with a countersink (for M8 thread), so that I could screw the bushing tight:

 

1947024701_2Swap_exten_1.thumb.jpg.e69c759c822dcd9ef161c77789c0f944.jpg

 

The connecting cable is wired as follows:

connection.thumb.jpg.12fea4263309c280df65f0e9f34f8bf9.jpg

Ground is the outer contact, so that the contacts of the connector are "grounded" first when plugged in. Also, the aluminum housing is at the same potential! The connection to "+5V" is made last to avoid short circuits when plugging in when the computer is switched on.

 

Sleepy

 

 

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