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-^CrossBow^-

Atari 5200 - UAV Installation Video

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Here is a video I did on my UAV installation into a 4-port 5200. I had some issues in that this particular 4-port refused to work without the 4050 still in the mix. Since I wanted to keep the RF shield in place, it required some modification of the mod board.

 

Bryan's procedures are pretty much dead on so unless there is a need for something with more pictures...etc I'm leaving it with just my video and Bryan's instructions.

 

 

 

Bryan's instructions for installation are found on his blog here:

 

http://atariage.com/forums/blog/695/entry-14462-install-uav-ac-in-the-5200/

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Because of the 5200 reset issue, I'm making a small 4050 add-on board I'll send out for free to those wanting one. Basically, if the 4050 is socketed (this seems to be mostly 4-ports) then the only way the Plug-In board fits under the shield is to remove the 4050 which causes problems as the 4050 also handles the reset signal. The options are to solder the 4050 in (either by removing the socket or soldering it onto the UAV or the bottom of the motherboard) or building a low-profile version of UAV using the Kit. This LP version could have the terminal and jumpers soldered under the board instead of on top.

 

If there's ever a new revision (some day, I hope), I'm going to include the 4050 functionality on the UAV itself and make it a little easier to have manufactured.

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I know the current design is set in stone. But why not just make the UAV already have the jumpers soldered on the bottom? It would only be needed on preassembled boards anyway so it wouldn't pose a problem with their being located on the bottom to be used in installations. The only other tricky part besides that is mounting the socket ontop of the UAV but it isn't that bad.

 

I also wondered, that if instead of using actual headers and jumpers, why not just provide some really small U-shaped leads to be placed into the holes instead and soldered onto? Would serve the same purpose as the jumpers and give an ultra low profile to make soldering the socket ontop easier as well and not have to do as much.

 

Course, that also means there is a FAR less tolerance for putting the jumpers into the wrong places, but it is all pretty well documented now that I don't think it would be much of an issue?

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Well, that's kinda why I offered the Kit, so people could flip things around any way they wanted. For most installations, the top mounted jumpers are much easier to get to and the green terminal is still the highest thing on the board. If you flip both the terminal and the jumpers to the other side, then it should work well mounted on a socketed 4050.

 

Once I get the 4050 boards in, I'll post pictures of them in use.

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These always seem to be 4-ports with the AV or UAV mods. Can this be done on a 2-port? Are 4-ports somehow better?

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It can be done on a 2port in the same manner. In fact I believe the original pics that Bryan posted are from a 2 port if I remember correctly. My advise is that if the 4050 is in a socket, then do the installation as Bryan has originally written it up and try installing without the 4050. If it doesn't work, then you would have to do as I ended up doing with leaving the 4050 in place.

 

But yes, to answer your question this can be done on the 2port model as well and the instructions would be the same. As for whether the 4port or 2port looking better over the other, I really doubt it since both models have the same video circuitry essentially.

Edited by -^Cro§Bow^-

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I'd love to post pics of my 2-port with UAV installed, as soon as I get my hands on some more boards. While the 4050 add-on would be awesome, I've been working around it. Next time I might try offsetting the 4050 on a small breadboard or something, unless Bryan gets them in soon.

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I'd love to post pics of my 2-port with UAV installed, as soon as I get my hands on some more boards. While the 4050 add-on would be awesome, I've been working around it. Next time I might try offsetting the 4050 on a small breadboard or something, unless Bryan gets them in soon.

So yours still requires the 4050 as well? Again it appears to be hit and miss with it. The one I modded for someone refused to show a picture without it in circuit so that is why in my video I had to modify the UAV as I did for the installation.

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TBH, I just included the 4050 in-circuit to avoid any potential issues, so I can't say if my 2nd 5200 worked without it or not.

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Nice work - I am trying to get a chip, is there any easy process to get one - do I just send Bryan the money and he'll send one out - or do I need to go through some ordering process like Best has. Thanks

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Send the email to Bryan through a PM here asking about them. Tell him what you plan to install it in and he will give you the best options on which type of kit to purchase. For the 7800 it is best to go with the basic board and solder everything in. for the 5200 he might suggest the complete kit that isn't assembled so you can solder on the components how you see fit. Or get the complete assembled kit and just not use the RF shield on the top..etc. The pricing is a tad different for each as will the shipping. Once he gives you those options, he will also provide you with his paypal to send the money to.

 

At least, that is how my transactions with him have gone.

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Is it always this big of a problem to install as your video shows?

I want one of these now. How much about do these run?

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No it wouldn't normally be that large an issue. I was modding this 5200 for a customer and they requested that the RF remain intact. So that meant I had to find a way to get everything mounted and still low profile enough to fit under the top RF shield. if you never plan to use the RF again, then I would actually advise removing the RF adapter completely. Then you no longer need the top RF shield either and hence there would be plenty of room.

 

The previous kit from electronicsentementalities that I would use prior still required that you remove and carefully lift and reform 5 pins from the GTIA that you solder the PCB onto. Wasn't really hard but you still had to be careful all the same. The UAV isn't that big a deal. Just pop the 4050 off, solder the socket you get with the kit ontop of the 4050. Plug the 4050 back into the 5200 and then plug the UAV into the socket you soldered onto the 4050. Then just run your wires from the output points to your RCA/S-video/TMSS connections.

Edited by -^Cro§Bow^-

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Here is a video I did on my UAV installation into a 4-port 5200. I had some issues in that this particular 4-port refused to work without the 4050 still in the mix. Since I wanted to keep the RF shield in place, it required some modification of the mod board.

 

Bryan's procedures are pretty much dead on so unless there is a need for something with more pictures...etc I'm leaving it with just my video and Bryan's instructions.

 

 

 

Bryan's instructions for installation are found on his blog here:

 

http://atariage.com/forums/blog/695/entry-14462-install-uav-ac-in-the-5200/

 

You should be a hand model.

 

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You should be a hand model.

 

Nah, my hands actually shake too much for anything like that. But hey! Sarcasm noted...

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I wasn't being sarcastic. Your hands look a hell of a lot better than mine!

Ahh..okay...

 

Well, I just make sure they are clean before I video since you see them as a representation of me. Required since the focus isn't really on my hands nor me, but what my hands are holding, or pointing to that matters.

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Ahh..okay...

 

Well, I just make sure they are clean before I video since you see them as a representation of me. Required since the focus isn't really on my hands nor me, but what my hands are holding, or pointing to that matters.

 

Of course. However, it's clear that you take care of your hands! :)

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Bumping this up as I finally have a UAV (rev D) in hand from @MacRorie to install in my 2-port 5200 (leaving my 4-port stock for now). If you buy a "complete" unit from the 5200 section of Marlin's site, you'll get it assembled with the terminal strip upside down. 

 

The 4050 on this machine is soldered to the board, so I understand the best/easiest way to install the UAV is to solder the included socket onto the 4050, then plug the UAV into it, correct? Preferred location for the RCA jacks (I'm sticking with composite here, as I did with my 7800 and 2600). I guess the ginormity of the 5200 gives lots of options here, lol. :)

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Well yes you can solder the socket onto the 4050, but I don't think there is enough space to do it well so I would still advise doing what I did and remove the 4050 and reinstall it to the top of the UAV as low profile as possible. You can remove the terminal strip and just solder the wires direct or remount the strip to the top of the UAV as they originally were. The Dr. puts them on the bottom so you can read the labeling for the output lines.

 

As to where the mount the jacks? That's easy...the expansion port cover on the far right of the console as you look from the back or far left if looking from the front. You can route the wiring through the large gap in the RF shield here as well.

 

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Today I got around to installing the UAV video mod board into 2-port 5200 that I bought recently.  This installation did *not* go smoothly though I persevered and eventually overcame the issues I encountered. 

 

First issue - this ain't gonna fit. The UAV sold by The Brewing Academy, as configured for the 5200, has the terminal strip (the green bit) soldered on the bottom of the board to help fit under the console RF shield. On this 2-port, there's insufficient clearance between the 4050 chip and the ANTIC for this to work, though a standard UAV (terminal strip on top) would've fit just fine. I considered removing the terminal strip but I've replaced a broken header on a UAV before and I can't abide working on such tiny pads with such tight spacing. 

 

IMG_3458.thumb.JPG.93bd4f8e4b3f973d9d7164f7e31f0aa3.JPG

 

After trying to solder a socket to the existing 4050 and fooling around with stacked sockets to get clearance, I ran into problem #2: one pin on the bottom of the UAV broke off. DAMN IT! I again briefly considered the idea of removing the header strip and trying to replace it (which I have done successfully before) but then came upon an easier solution - the green bodge wire between the UAV and the main PCB.

 

IMG_3465.thumb.JPG.1fa0dc7c1855617c6e105f2caff404dd.JPG

 

Ultimately however I could not get a video signal from the UAV with the 4050 in place. I don't know if I had an issue with the socket soldered on top of the chip or what. At the end of the day, I desoldered the 4050, installed a socket, then stacked two more sockets to get the necessary clearance. It ain't pretty, that's for damn sure.

 

IMG_3481.thumb.JPG.8b4165c82356d6565ecc45ad67718a66.JPG

 

But it works. :)

 

IMG_3479.thumb.JPG.c3de53f190c515afd5d7924f645f8315.JPG

 

IMG_3487.thumb.JPG.fc23f50ab3aec3f30207a45c1243567c.JPG

 

This tower is stable but it's just a fraction of an inch taller than the RF coil so the top shield doesn't fit. No big loss for me - most of my systems don't have RF shields anyway. I might replace the UAV eventually with a standard-configured unit, which will drop the height enough to reinstall the top shield but for now I'm satisfied with how it came out in the end. 

 

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You could have mimic what I did in my UAV install video for the 5200 in regards to rebuilding it. It really didn't take me that long to do what I what I did and if you solder the second socket on top of the header pins, then you can install the 4050 or remove it as needed. Don't forget there is that jumper wire that was needed when running with the 4050 removed. Or you have to remove the jumper wire if leaving the 4050 in place.

 

Forgot to mention that the 4-port and 2-port have the same issue in regards to the clearance of the 4050 next to the ANTIC so this is an issue with both of them if you have the terminal strip solder on the bottom of the board. I know why the Brewing Academy does this, it is so you can still see the labels for what outputs go to what for video. But if you have it written down then it doesn't matter.

 

 

 

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42 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:

Don't forget there is that jumper wire that was needed when running with the 4050 removed. Or you have to remove the jumper wire if leaving the 4050 in place.

Entirely unnecessary on my 2-port. No 4050, no jumper wire, works great. :)

 

In any case, it works and since I don't need or want RF, lack of the 4050 is not an issue.

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