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SDrive-MAX ATX support


Farb

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I'm happy to announce that I have been working with the maintainer of SDrive-MAX to implement ATX support. There are very limited resources available on the device so, at least for now (v0.5), ATX features are somewhat limited. Copy protection that depends on weak bits and/or read timing will not currently work.

 

However, there are a lot of titles that do work and I hope to continue to improve it with the help of others.

 

If anyone is interested, here is the site with the latest hardware information and firmware download:

 

http://www.kbrnet.de/projekte/sdrive-max/index.html

 

The page is in German but I think the relevant parts are pretty easy to decipher. If not, I know enough German to at least help out :-)

 

I look forward to hearing from those who try it!

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  • 4 months later...

This thread hasn't seen an update in a while so just a quick update.

 

I added weak bit support to the now released version 0.6 and Klaus already has some preliminary timing-based protection support working in the latest development version. Additionally, cassette emulation seems to work really well in the latest 0.7 release.

 

So things are progressing nicely!

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This thread hasn't seen an update in a while so just a quick update.

 

I added weak bit support to the now released version 0.6 and Klaus already has some preliminary timing-based protection support working in the latest development version. Additionally, cassette emulation seems to work really well in the latest 0.7 release.

 

So things are progressing nicely!

 

So if understood the posts in the other thread, there's some English documentation coming as well? If so, that would be fantastic. I like fiddling with Arduino stuff and I certainly know which end of the soldering iron gets hot. A little touch-screen device like that shown at the link in the first post looks quite interesting. Thank you for bringing it to my attention!

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Okay. I'm going to need a little help.

 

The Github page lists these instructions:

Firmware programming:

First use the eeprom-writer.hex to set the correct values to the EEPROM!
Then programm the SDrive.hex into the flash.
That's it!

 

I feel like there just might be a few steps missing here. :)

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks!

Todd

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Okay. I'm going to need a little help.

 

The Github page lists these instructions:

I feel like there just might be a few steps missing here. :)

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks!

Todd

 

I can help a little bit on Windows.

The Uno board must first be connected, otherwise the driver and the COM port are missing, which one must know for the first input. Attached you will find a zip-file. Unzip them in a directory of your choice. Start the batchup file "Sdrive.bat" and follow the instructions. A little help is also included.

The reason for the USB disconnection of the UNO is an error in the firmware of some providers of a clone. First pull the USB cable until the flash process has occurred on the display. After reinserting the flash process appears again, please wait for DONE and then press a key.

The directory contains the current firmware V07. In the directory the software for the display atmega328-ili9341 from Elegoo is installed. If one of the other displays is used, insert the files from the respective directory.

 

Important for the electrical connections, the diode in the SIO data line is not to be forgotten. If several participants are connected to the SIO bus, otherwise the Sdrive-Max blocks the data transfer.

 

Since the Sdrive-Max is released, the price for a SIO2SD has fallen in Lotharek's shop.

 

 

SDrive-english.zip

post-4842-0-68861800-1530309275.jpg

post-4842-0-10706300-1530309319_thumb.jpg

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And now that I think about it, I've got a couple spare SIO cables too - I've got one physcially damaged 1010 recorder I can salvage the pigtail from, as well as at least one standard double-ended SIO cable that has a broken connector on one end (the SIO plug on one end was crushed by a heavy object in shipping to me, years ago). So yeah, this is looking like a great project!

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After the software is installed you have to do a screen calibration. One after the other a cross appears on every corner. This must be selected with a pen.

 

Thank you for all the info. I sort of forgot that I bought a big Arduino starter-kit with an Elegoo clone Uno R3 board and a ton of sensors, components and a breadboard. So I've already got an Uno I could use to build and play around with. All I really need is the display and software. I might be building this thing as early as next weekend. :)

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Same here, ARDIUNO and Display are around $36 on Amazon...

I don't generally like recommending clone boards, but these are available all over AliExpress and have the nice benefit of including solder pads for each pin that makes it extremely easy to attach the SIO cable. On a genuine UNO, since the touchscreen covers all the normal pin sockets, you'd have to do some ugly soldering to get the SIO cable connected. The clone board also has the benefit of costing 3 or 4 dollars.

 

post-8685-0-87598800-1530387080.jpg

Edited by Farb
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I just bought a very similar clone Uno board (about $8 on Amazon US) and the Elegoo touchscreen module recommended in one of these threads. They should be here Sunday. Looking forward to rigging something up in the next week or so for testing. Once I’m sure I’ve got things working I’ll figure out a case for the whole thing.

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Okay, I have my clone UNO board and touchscreen ... Unfortunately I forgot to check to see if I have any diodes of the required type so those will arrive Tuesday. I'm not going to bother wiring anything up until they arrive. I also don't have a spare microSD card for disk images, but I can get one this afternoon or tomorrow after work.

 

Anyway, once I get things tested and I'm sure it's working, I'll have a case 3D printed. The little "v3.1" XL-styled case will cost me about $25 to have made & mailed to me. I'm checking my friends locally to see if any of them have a printer and can do it cheaper.

 

But in the meantime ... :)

 

post-30400-0-49331700-1531075817_thumb.jpg

 

HUGE thanks for posting the English language README file and instructions! This was literally as easy as plugging in the Aduino, running the Windows batch script (I ran it from a Win10 terminal prompt) and following the onscreen prompts to unplug the Arduino and then plug it back in a moment later. Once I get an SD card and verify I can select disk images, I'll start wiring up an SIO cable.

Edited by DrVenkman
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Okay, I have my clone UNO board and touchscreen ... Unfortunately I forgot to check to see if I have any diodes of the required type so those will arrive Tuesday. I'm not going to bother wiring anything up until they arrive. I also don't have a spare microSD card for disk images, but I can get one this afternoon or tomorrow after work.

 

Anyway, once I get things tested and I'm sure it's working, I'll have a case 3D printed. The little "v3.1" XL-styled case will cost me about $25 to have made & mailed to me. I'm checking my friends locally to see if any of them have a printer and can do it cheaper.

 

But in the meantime ... :)

 

IMG_0134.JPG

 

HUGE thanks for posting the English language README file and instructions! This was literally as easy as plugging in the Aduino, running the Windows batch script (I ran it from a Win10 terminal prompt) and following the onscreen prompts to unplug the Arduino and then plug it back in a moment later. Once I get an SD card and verify I can select disk images, I'll start wiring up an SIO cable.

 

If you can wait a week or so, I can print you a case and send it to you for the cost of shipping. Im out of town at the moment, so it will likely be mid- to late-July until I could get it out in the mail. PM me if you are interested. (And send me the STL file you want printed.) I currently have white, black, brown, red, blue and orange filament. I can only print one color at a time. Im assuming the case is 2 pieces. The two pieces do not have to be the same color.

 

I am building one too, so I can make sure it fits the components before sending it to you.

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If you can wait a week or so, I can print you a case and send it to you for the cost of shipping. Im out of town at the moment, so it will likely be mid- to late-July until I could get it out in the mail. PM me if you are interested. (And send me the STL file you want printed.) I currently have white, black, brown, red, blue and orange filament. I can only print one color at a time. Im assuming the case is 2 pieces. The two pieces do not have to be the same color.

 

I am building one too, so I can make sure it fits the components before sending it to you.

 

Thanks for the offer, Todd! I may end up taking you up on it, depending. I have a local friend with a 3D printer who's indicated he might be able to make this for me. Guy's a research professor at a large local university working in the hard sciences, so he's not just talking out of his butt. :) I'm going to email him the files and see what he thinks. For what it's worth, I'm going to use the version 3.1 XL-type case from page at the link in Farb's first post.

Edited by DrVenkman
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Thanks for the offer, Todd! I may end up taking you up on it, depending. I have a local friend with a 3D printer who's indicated he might be able to make this for me. Guy's a research professor at a large local university working in the hard sciences, so he's not just talking out of his butt. :) I'm going to email him the files and see what he thinks. For what it's worth, I'm going to use the version 3.1 XL-type case from page at the link in Farb's first post.

I looked at that and I like how it looks, but it would need to be printed with supports, so its a little tricky getting it to work. I printed the one on thingiverse.com. Its not as Atari-ey, but it is a much more practical print.

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Would this clone board be ok ?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elegoo-Board-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Arduino/dp/B01EWOE0UU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1531089810&sr=8-4&keywords=arduino+uno+r3

 

I realise I'm being a cheapskate, but if I muck it up due to my wonderful soldering, lol, then I don't mind the £9 hit.

I also like the post earlier on that said the clone boards had easier solder points, that would help me, greatly.

 

I also believe that this screen worked ok ?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01EUVJYME/?coliid=I2PH5IJYQWPSRP&colid=3JW1OUF9PQRW4&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

Many thanks.

 

Just to edit:

 

It would be awesome if someone could design a 3d-printed mini 1050 case.

Edited by 80s_Atari_Guy
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Would this clone board be ok ?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elegoo-Board-ATmega328P-ATMEGA16U2-Arduino/dp/B01EWOE0UU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1531089810&sr=8-4&keywords=arduino+uno+r3

 

I realise I'm being a cheapskate, but if I muck it up due to my wonderful soldering, lol, then I don't mind the £9 hit.

I also like the post earlier on that said the clone boards had easier solder points, that would help me, greatly.

 

I also believe that this screen worked ok ?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01EUVJYME/?coliid=I2PH5IJYQWPSRP&colid=3JW1OUF9PQRW4&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

Many thanks.

 

Just to edit:

 

It would be awesome if someone could design a 3d-printed mini 1050 case.

 

I used an even cheaper Uno clone and it works so far (still gotta build a cable!) but I have that same Elegoo Uno board which came in a big Arduino maker/experimenter's kit some months ago and I tried the software with that one too tonight. Works great, so you should be good to go. And that's the exact model screen/card reader I bought, so again you're good. For what it's worth, if you check the project page from the first post, you'll see several case variants people have made. I'm going for that final one, an XL-styled case. It's not quite a mini-1050 but it fits the overall look quite well, I think. Just gotta get it printed in the next week or so.

 

Now having said that, I got a new microSD card tonight, loaded it to the gills with ATR files and tried it in the SDrive-MAX - fantastic! One user note: the file names as shown in the drive slots and as you navigate the file structure to load them are truncated and abbreviated by the software. HOWEVER: if you tap one, you see the full file name at the top of the screen. So as you decide between several versions of a file, for instance, just tap one, see if it's the one you want, and if not, select another. Then you can confirm with an OK button, and that image is ready to go in that drive.

 

Now I just gotta get my diodes (Tuesday) and get to building a cable to try it out!

 

post-30400-0-00112700-1531094933_thumb.jpg

Edited by DrVenkman
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