80s_Atari_Guy Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 That sounds great. Going to order the parts tomorrow, on Amazon prime. Does it support long file names ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 (edited) That sounds great. Going to order the parts tomorrow, on Amazon prime. Does it support long file names ? As I said, the file names as displayed in the D: entries and file lists are truncated. But when you tap on one, the long name is shown at top. Let me show some pics: So, here you can see there's a bunch of truncated names that very similar to each other. However, at the top of the screen, the selected title is scrolling by (couldn't catch a photo as the scrolling started, sorry!) The name you've tapped is also repeated in the status line at the bottom of the page. Once selected, the disk entry in the D: slot is similarly truncated, but you saw the full name when you selected the file. Hope this helps clarify. Edited July 9, 2018 by DrVenkman 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80s_Atari_Guy Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Thanks, looks great. I think I have found a temporary case. A TI99/4a plastic RF Modulator box. These were the cheap and nasty boxes, unlike the metal ones which can be composite modded easily - The plastic ones require a lot more work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Assembled one of these today and test printed a case for it. Brilliant! 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 (edited) Would it be possible to splice two SIO cables (one male and one female) in parallel to have SIO signal pass-thru for daisy chain? I did something similar on a 600XL where I spliced SIO connection inside and mounted a SIO2PC USB inside the unit. Still able to use the female socket for SIO daisy chain. Edited July 9, 2018 by NISMOPC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR> Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Would it be possible to splice two SIO cables (one male and one female) in parallel to have SIO signal pass-thru for daisy chain? Don't see why not, you could even use 2 males, and plug it directly in to the next device? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Don't see why not, you could even use 2 males, and plug it directly in to the next device? Or that ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 Just ordered this kit. Looked for the lowest cost possible and ended up with this. Will see how it works... US $17.31 Shipped https://www.ebay.com/itm/292243532939 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 (edited) Just ordered this kit. Looked for the lowest cost possible and ended up with this. Will see how it works... US $17.31 Shipped https://www.ebay.com/itm/292243532939 s-l16001.jpg I am using the same exact UNO clone and it works great. The screen/microSD card module looks very, very similar (perhaps identical?) the Elegoo version linked earlier in the thread, which is the one I'm using. You'll probably be good to go. As for me, since drumming up excitement about this project, I'm still waiting for the diodes I ordered Saturday. So to do at least a little something productive, I cut apart the broken connector end of a spare SIO cable that I've had for 15+ years, stripped the wires and checked continuity from the good end of the connector to determine which color wire corresponds to which pin. When I was looking at the cable, I realized it was a genuine Molex connector. Edited July 9, 2018 by DrVenkman 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddtmw Posted July 9, 2018 Share Posted July 9, 2018 I believe the diode is a only needed if you are hooking more than one thing up at a time? If that is true, you could at least try it a little while waiting for the diode? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted July 10, 2018 Share Posted July 10, 2018 I believe the diode is a only needed if you are hooking more than one thing up at a time? If that is true, you could at least try it a little while waiting for the diode? It is, but I'll be plugging this thing into a daisy chain of other devices, and I don't want to solder the cable twice. I'll have the diodes tomorrow - no giant rush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Hey, it works! But of course, being me and involving diodes (*), there's a complication. Someone please tell me which side the black band of the diode needs to be pointing - Arduino side or Atari side? Reason I asked is, I tried it both ways, the device failed to work. As soon as I removed it completely, things work great, as you can see. Is it possible I've got a bad batch of 1N4148 diodes? (When I built my 1088XEL, of course I installed the two main LEDs backwards - so I'm prone to thinking myself into a circle with these things!) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Someone please tell me which side the black band of the diode needs to be pointing Cathode (black band) end soldered to the Arduino. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 Cathode (black band) end soldered to the Arduino. Yeah, that's what I thought! Nada when I had it wired that way. Harrumph. I'll rewire it tomorrow and try again. Thanks for the confirmation though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted July 11, 2018 Share Posted July 11, 2018 I added weak bit support to the now released version 0.6 and Klaus already has some preliminary timing-based protection support working in the latest development version. Additionally, cassette emulation seems to work really well in the latest 0.7 release. Do you have some examples handy for .atx images that would be expected to work with the given level of implementation? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farb Posted July 11, 2018 Author Share Posted July 11, 2018 (edited) Do you have some examples handy for .atx images that would be expected to work with the given level of implementation? I am currently working on a compatibility list for the latest beta version (0.8b) which I manually build from Github. As for 0.7, a few that are known to work (although there are many others) are: Agent USA Bandits Bruce Lee Canyon Climber Goonies (used to test weak bits) Nibbler Edited July 11, 2018 by Farb 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandviewCoin Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 Just ordered all my parts.. Is there a great guide as to making the cable? I have the diodes on the way as well.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 (edited) DELETED - Got my threads confused. Carry on. Edited July 15, 2018 by DrVenkman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 Just ordered all my parts.. Is there a great guide as to making the cable? I have the diodes on the way as well.. The cable is easy. Salvage a half-cable from a 410 or 1010, or cut an existing cable in half (to save the other half for another project!) Strip the outer insulation and reveal the 13 individual wires inside. Identify which color wire corresponds to the following 4 or optionally 5 wires. This is the table I made from the cable I salvaged. NOTE: WIRE COLORS MAY VARY! Make sure you check with a multimeter set in continuity mode. SIO PIN/Signal - Wire Color - Connected to Arduino? Clock In - Brown - No Clock Out - Red - No Data In - Orange - YES - TxD (diode inline, black band toward Arduino) Ground - Black- YES - GND Data Out - Green - YES - RxD Ground - Bare - No Command - Purple - YES - A5 Motor Speed - Yellow - No Proceed- White - No +5V - Blue - YES - +5V (OPTIONAL - can also power Arduino with a wall wart/USB cable/battery) Audio In - White/Black - No +12V - Red/Black - No Interrupt - Gray - No Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 Strip the outer insulation and reveal the 13 individual wires inside. Identify which color wire corresponds to the following 4 or optionally 5 wires. This is the table I made from the cable I salvaged. NOTE: WIRE COLORS MAY VARY! Make sure you check with a multimeter set in continuity mode. You might want to take the wire colors out of that table and just provide the pinout. or make that warning REALLY BIG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandviewCoin Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 (edited) So it looks like only 4 wires are involved if your not using the +5 volts. Doesn't seem so bad. Now I need a case printed.. if I only had a printed. That's a rabbit hole I choose to not run down into yet.. Any one with a printer care to make a cpl bucks? Edited July 15, 2018 by GrandviewCoin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddtmw Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 So it looks like only 4 wires are involved if your not using the +5 volts. Doesn't seem so bad. Now I need a case printed.. if I only had a printed. That's a rabbit hole I choose to not run down into yet.. Any one with a printer care to make a cpl bucks? Let me do a test print and get back to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 Let me do a test print and get back to you. A friend printed one of the XL-style cases for me. The only thing I found is that the cable opening is far too small if you do like I did and use a vintage cable. I opened mine up with a Dremel burr tool followed by a very light sanding with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges. If you build a new cable with something like one of Lotharek's new SIO plugs and a repurposed ethernet cable, that wouldn't be necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 A friend printed one of the XL-style cases for me. The only thing I found is that the cable opening is far too small if you do like I did and use a vintage cable. Yeah it is. I modified the model for a bigger opening before printing it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddtmw Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 A friend printed one of the XL-style cases for me. The only thing I found is that the cable opening is far too small if you do like I did and use a vintage cable. I opened mine up with a Dremel burr tool followed by a very light sanding with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges. If you build a new cable with something like one of Lotharek's new SIO plugs and a repurposed ethernet cable, that wouldn't be necessary. I was going to print my own SIO plug and wire it up with new wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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