_The Doctor__ Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 (edited) I got both of mine assembled without issue but after seeing the cracked screen you posted I went to examine and find out how that could happen... and the ways to avoid it. tips follow 0 make sure micro sd card is not in slot 1 make sure all 3D print process support plastics are removed 2 make sure case pegs are in pcb holes and hold them in place through entire assembly process 3 screen should have overhang placed under screw supports first and then other side put into place gently spreading case so connector clear hole supports and structure 4 when all is lined up slide base pcb screen sandwich forward, the power jack et all will slide into holes and case grooves will interconnect and other end will swing in... If this is too fiddly to do you can snip a peg top off on left top peg nearest groove and power sd usb hole side. You will find it is hollow, secure with one appropriately sized screw... other people suggest glues but the screw works for most folks. plastic washer/spacer optional. Then revisit list with careful assembly! I raised the screen after assembly using wood push sticks carefully through case hole. just to the point of almost touching case. one wood push-rod/stick held ardy pcb down and other pulled screen up worked perfect. looks professional even. Gentle pressure at sd card side will bring slot down to make it line up just enough to make micro sd card line up so it will only go where it is supposed to! the screen case gap will still be dang near perfect. you are awesome! and so is that cased sdrive max ATX! Edited October 4, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E474 Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Hi remowilliams, I make the dimensions of the outside of the case 74mm (perhaps 73.8, but it's closer to 74 than 73), at the end with the cutouts for the microSD card, USB and power supply, and the outside dimension for the length at 90 mm. The screen isn't quite a drop in for the shape of the container. Apart from the memory card, I think the screen is the most expensive component. The dimensions of the screen are: 50 mm * 69 mm. The bits I had to work on were: - the slot that the flat base fits into had to be widened. - the two parts for the screws (that the base plate rests on) had to be flattened. - the edges of the base didn't quite fit into the main case, so I had to reduce the edges until it was a good fit. Also 3 of the spurs that go into the holes in the Arduino fell off. I printed the case the other way up than pictured. I think the problem is from the screen surround on the side where the cable exits the case (left hand side in picture) - it looks like the printer had difficulty with that bit. It's a pity, because it's a nice case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E474 Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Hi _The Doctor__, Thanks very much for the advice, I will give it another go tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 I make the dimensions of the outside of the case 74mm I don't have the exact dimensions handy, but you should not have to change any dimensions from the model as provided. - the slot that the flat base fits into had to be widened. - the two parts for the screws (that the base plate rests on) had to be flattened. - the edges of the base didn't quite fit into the main case, so I had to reduce the edges until it was a good fit. Again, none of this should be necessary. The case parts should be a near perfect fit. Also 3 of the spurs that go into the holes in the Arduino fell off. I printed the case the other way up than pictured. I think the problem is from the screen surround on the side where the cable exits the case (left hand side in picture) - it looks like the printer had difficulty with that bit. It's a pity, because it's a nice case. The support posts should be sturdy and nearly perfectly aligned to the board. You are also printing the case wrong side up, it should be printed top side down for FDM printing. I understand you are having a different experience - but I can assure you that if your printer is calibrated and working correctly. It's simply print as is, there is no fiddling or modification necessary. Either your printer has dimensional accuracy issues, or it is not properly calibrated and tuned for the filament you are using. 3 screen should have overhang placed under screw supports first and then other side put into place gently spreading case so connector clear hole supports and structure This is an important note and is one of the two reasons the screw supports are designed like that in the model. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillC Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 The issue may not be with the case dimensions but that this particular screen was slightly larger than most. Not every device is manufactured exactly to specifications. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR> Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 There definitely seem to be at least two different versions of the case out there. BillC's version looks a bit smaller than the one Remowilliams sent me. Looks shorter from top to bottom. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 There definitely seem to be at least two different versions of the case out there. BillC's version looks a bit smaller than the one Remowilliams sent me. Looks shorter from top to bottom. There are at least two variants of the XL-style case linked from the project home page. A quick Google also shows models available through Thingaverse, though I'm not sure which version(s) are on there. I note that the only change I had to make for my own build was to Dremel out the cable opening, and that was only because I repurposed a vintage cable that had a broken connector on one end. Had I bought or gotten a new SIO connector printed and made a new cable, I'd not have even had to do that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 There are at least two variants of the XL-style case linked from the project home page. A quick Google also shows models available through Thingaverse, though I'm not sure which version(s) are on there. There's a 3.0 mini USB and regular USB, and there's a 3.1 regular USB. For reference I've used both the 3.0 mini USB and the 3.1 regular USB models. The cable opening was the only thing I needed to change as it's way to small for a real SIO cable, I did that by simply editing the model before printing for an appropriate size gap. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 I like original, big type B ports. They don't break anywhere close to the failure rate on the mini and especially micro. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR> Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 Did a little paint job on my case. Brown's not quite dark enough and I need to redo the label. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 Regarding calibration being touchy, here's an update from the logs that may interest some: commit f163b736e0c380b69c3271ef882ac04b72769175 Author: kbr <klaus@my.kbrnet.de> Date: Wed Oct 3 13:51:48 2018 +0200 debounce touchscreen calibration 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 9, 2018 Share Posted October 9, 2018 also if something touches screen and it goes to calibration, it is not saved right away, you can power down and power up. It will load the earlier saved config so you are not required to go through that accidental re-calibration... I left my fat thumb on the scree during power up... and thought why not power down and back up, found out all was just fine and didn't need to worry about it.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morelenmir Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 This evening I have bought an 'ELEGOO 2.8Inch touchscreen TFT display' (eBay Auction -- Item Number: 163302297706) for just over £16 and an Arduino UNO R3 clone (eBay Auction -- Item Number: 262200725666) for a little under £5. Going from the Google translation of the 'SDrive MAX' page I think these components will do the job. Luckily--just as the web page mentions--this type of Uno clone does have extra pads beside the TX/RX sockets which make it very convenient for connecting the appropriate SIO signals. However one practical aspect which I do not like about the design is the fact the SIO cable is connected directly to the Arduino motherboard and then runs out to the Atari with at best a cable grip as strain-relief. I would prefer there to be an intermediary stage added to this; wires to connect the appropriate Arduino pins to a DIN (or some other) socket that is attached to the case and then a matching plug which connects the actual SIO cable that goes on to the Atari. This way any snag or accidental pull on the cable does not yank off the TX/RX pads from the Arduino! I have asked my best pal who is 3d printing the case for me if he can add a bit of length to the design so I can fit a DIN socket inside it. All in all though I am very much looking forward to having a bash at this project when the boards arrive in the post! One question that strikes me is; since the SIO signals are directly connected to the Arduino without the intermediary of a Serial-to-USB converter as in the SIO2PC-USB device does this mean that full emulation of the XF551--which is highly dependent on proper timing--can be done inside the 'SDrive MAX' software? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 This way any snag or accidental pull on the cable does not yank off the TX/RX pads from the Arduino! A ziptie on the inside of the case is your friend. Unless your pet elephant is yanking on the cable 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 A ziptie on the inside of the case is your friend. Unless your pet elephant is yanking on the cable That is EXACTLY what I did, plus I wired up my cable with Dupont connectors so I can take all but a set of short little pigtails off the main SIO cable if I need to take my unit apart in the future. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 Yep zip ties or cable clamps, or even plugs as mentioned 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morelenmir Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 Is the source code open to learn from and adapt if we can think up improvements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 Is the source code open to learn from and adapt if we can think up improvements? There you go https://github.com/kbr-net/sdrive-max 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 Are the pre-compiled hex files available? I don't have all the stuff set up to compile this. Thanx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Level42 Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 (edited) Regarding calibration being touchy, here's an update from the logs that may interest some: commit f163b736e0c380b69c3271ef882ac04b72769175 Author: kbr <klaus@my.kbrnet.de> Date: Wed Oct 3 13:51:48 2018 +0200 debounce touchscreen calibration Look like KBR implemented a change for the calibration issue....but in another way then I proposed. https://github.com/kbr-net/sdrive-max/commit/f163b736e0c380b69c3271ef882ac04b72769175 Theres no new compiled version available from his website yet though.... Edited October 14, 2018 by Level42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Look like KBR implemented a change for the calibration issue....but in another way then I proposed. https://github.com/kbr-net/sdrive-max/commit/f163b736e0c380b69c3271ef882ac04b72769175 Theres no new compiled version available from his website yet though.... Yeah that's the debounce code. Here's a 1.0b 'convenience' build (binaries only) Note the beta designation... sdrive-max.1.0b.rar 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 (edited) we have been running down some weird drive issues.. until my shipment arrives I can't nail it down, but I think a slot completely off function needs to be implemented separate from an empty slot condition. Empty slot is a real condition and should remain.. drive slot off is a needed addition if the our theory proves true. Combining the empty slot as a drive being off is not how it should work for reasons of software based disk swapping without pressing a key etc. while it is the method most peripheral emulators use and it is what we expect. The ATX emulation should keep with acting exactly like a real drive. Please if you will set up your real drives(if yours are capable and/or APE respeqt drives etc. as drives 5 and above... leaving the lower drives for SDrive max ATX. Then try all the normal copying and other usage.. please report your findings in the 'with other drives thread'.... Edited October 14, 2018 by _The Doctor__ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtariGeezer Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Yeah that's the debounce code. Here's a 1.0b 'convenience' build (binaries only) Note the beta designation... sdrive-max.1.0b.rar Remo, did you compile this yourself? and which program and OS are you using? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+DrVenkman Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Remo, did you compile this yourself? and which program and OS are you using? It's not hard to compile, assuming you have the tools installed. I just did it a few minutes ago myself using Ubuntu Linux in a VirtualBox machine on my Win10 laptop. You just need the usual gcc compilers, plus xa (cross-compiler) and avrdude. Then cd into the directory for your particular screen and use avrdude to program the eeprom_writer.hex and SDrive.hex files to your board. I'm about to go test the new build on my 1088XEL. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+remowilliams Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 we have been running down some weird drive issues.. until my shipment arrives I can't nail it down, but I think a slot completely off function needs to be implemented separate from an empty slot condition. Empty slot is a real condition and should remain. The odd thing is when the slot is empty it does seem to behave as 'off' in my tests, at least as far as the 1050 is concerned. Remo, did you compile this yourself? and which program and OS are you using? Yes, I compiled it on Windows 10 under Ubuntu WSL (Windows Subsystem for Linux) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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