Mr Robot Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 Heres another variant, this one the oscillator can is much smaller. All of these versions and others are common on Amazon, eBay and Ailexpress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+slx Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 The oscillator is in a better place on this as it won‘t interfere with the sub-board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 This is why I'm asking which ones people have. @Gavin1968 hasn't chimed in yet, he's sold loads of them so the board he uses will be a very common layout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 2 hours ago, Mr Robot said: The DIP versions and Genuino's I wont be able to do at all, to make this work I'll need the pin holes you get on the knockoffs inside the pinsockets to mount to. Apologies, did not know what you were asking for. Here is the version I use exclusively in the ones I sell.' 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 3 hours ago, slx said: I came across the non-socketed version on Aliexpress and this socketed version on Amazon (which does not need the sub-board). The oscillator can needs on the former needs to be insulated when the sub-board is installed. So wait, I am confused or did not read the details or pay enough attention... My original UNO R3 (I built some time last year) was the chip on board with micro-USB and I initially used a 1n4148 on TX line which seemed to work OK. Recently tried to power with 12V AC/DC and fried the unit. So I rebuilt using a Inland socketed UNO R3 and still used a 1n4148 on the TX line. While doing all of this I purchased one of the sub-boards (delivered today) to install. Is it NOT required on the socketed UNO R3 boards. It's just required for the chip on board version? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR> Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 (edited) 16 minutes ago, NISMOPC said: So wait, I am confused or did not read the details or pay enough attention... My original UNO R3 (I built some time last year) was the chip on board with micro-USB and I initially used a 1n4148 on TX line which seemed to work OK. Recently tried to power with 12V AC/DC and fried the unit. So I rebuilt using a Inland socketed UNO R3 and still used a 1n4148 on the TX line. While doing all of this I purchased one of the sub-boards (delivered today) to install. Is it NOT required on the socketed UNO R3 boards. It's just required for the chip on board version? Yes, you can just leave pin 2 out of the socket, or install a switch to re-connect it when re-programming. See here (picture from Mr. Robot post earlier in thread) : https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_05_2019/post-62759-0-20415900-1558043974.jpg Edited June 21, 2019 by JR> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 4 minutes ago, JR> said: Yes, you can just leave pin 2 out of the socket, or install a switch to re-connect it when re-programming. See here (picture from Mr. Robot post earlier in thread) : https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_05_2019/post-62759-0-20415900-1558043974.jpg 168.7 kB · 0 downloads Well hot diggity dog d@mn! - How did I miss that! Guess I'll build another one with a generic chip on board version with the sub board as a backup then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 (edited) On 6/21/2019 at 12:45 PM, JR> said: Yes, you can just leave pin 2 out of the socket, or install a switch to re-connect it when re-programming. See here (picture from Mr. Robot post earlier in thread) : https://atariage.com/forums/uploads/monthly_05_2019/post-62759-0-20415900-1558043974.jpg 168.7 kB · 0 downloads Edited June 23, 2019 by Mr Robot Removed Inaccuracies 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 I posted a comment saying to read this comment and the one after it for istructions on the dip version of the UNO. It seems to be missing so apologies if I double post or have posted a random thing in another topic! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 (edited) 26 minutes ago, Mr Robot said: I didn't post that picture BigBen did. It's also wrong, he has since posted a correct picture, it's pin 3 not pin 2. I need to knock up some instructions for all this, don't I? Mr Robot - That would be great. I was just reading that portion of the thread when I saw he re-posted regarding PIN 3. I am still not quite comfortable with the direction. It states: "Arduino Uno Atmega put out of the DIL socket and bent out Pin3, put it in the socket and connect with SIO Pin3." Am I to understand that I do not solder the SIO pin 3 connection directly to the board but I will solder it to the pin 3 of the socket that I bent out (with inline diode)? And it does not need reconnected for programming since I will program via USB connection IF I need to? UPDATE: Was posting this same time as above post. Just went and read that link of information Mr Robot. Thank you... THIS clarifies it! Quote What bigben is saying is that pin 3 on the ATmega chip (TX) should be bent out of the socket and the wire that you previously soldered to pin 1-TX on the UNO board should be soldered to it, so desolder that wire from the UNO board (it goes to SIO pin 3) and solder it to the chip leg. If you want to update the firmware at some later date you will need to reconnect that pin back to the UNO, so you should probably fit a switch. ATmega chip Pin-3 - - UNO BOARD DIP Socket Pin-3 \ - SIO Connector Pin-3 You no longer need the diode, it never worked in the first place. Edited June 21, 2019 by NISMOPC Fixed for Mr Robot ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 see my previous comment OK give me a couple of days to knock up some instructions and I'll put up step by steps for both types of board on my website. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 Could somebody please measure this dimension, actually could everybody please measure this dimension. Millimeters would be lovely please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 13 minutes ago, NISMOPC said: Mr Robot - That would be great. I was just reading that portion of the thread when I saw he re-posted regarding PIN 3. I am still not quite comfortable with the direction. It states: "Arduino Uno Atmega put out of the DIL socket and bent out Pin3, put it in the socket and connect with SIO Pin3." Am I to understand that I do not solder the SIO pin 3 connection directly to the board but I will solder it to the pin 3 of the socket that I bent out (with inline diode)? And it does not need reconnected for programming since I will program via USB connection IF I need to? UPDATE: Was posting this same time as above post. Just went and read that link of information Mr Robot. Thank you... THIS clarifies it! You probably should have quoted the bit about the switch as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 2 minutes ago, Mr Robot said: You probably should have quoted the bit about the switch as well... Fixed! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 5 minutes ago, Mr Robot said: Could somebody please measure this dimension, actually could everybody please measure this dimension. Millimeters would be lovely please! 16mm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JR> Posted June 21, 2019 Share Posted June 21, 2019 31 minutes ago, Mr Robot said: I didn't post that picture BigBen did. It's also wrong, he has since posted a correct picture, it's pin 3 not pin 2. I need to knock up some instructions for all this, don't I? EDIT: Where did my post go!? LOL, I had seen the fixed post before and though that was the one I grabbed the pic from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 If an incorrect picture or info is posted anywhere, the op of the info should be contacted and they should ask for permission from the mods and edit/fix it... if that can not be done it should be reported so a moderator/admin/op can either fix it or delete it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBen Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 I made the setup again and tested. Sorry for my confusion, here is the correct description: Pin (0) RX line goes to the bent Pin2 of the Atmega. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 You're using a 4148 diode there, people were having problems with that and switched to a Schottky diode for the lower voltage drop (this may have been a 1088XEL only problem). You're saying a diode is required on TXD doing it this way and the 4148 is OK? We know it's not required for the SMD solution. In this comment you are pretty specific about it being Pin 3, not pin2. The previous comment (with pictures) said Pin 2. A later picture showed Pin 3 which matched what you were saying below. Now we are back to pin 2 again? Could you also add a photo of the wires in the SIO plug so we can see what wire goes where. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 2 hours ago, Mr Robot said: You're using a 4148 diode there, people were having problems with that and switched to a Schottky diode for the lower voltage drop (this may have been a 1088XEL only problem). You're saying a diode is required on TXD doing it this way and the 4148 is OK? We know it's not required for the SMD solution. In this comment you are pretty specific about it being Pin 3, not pin2. The previous comment (with pictures) said Pin 2. A later picture showed Pin 3 which matched what you were saying below. Now we are back to pin 2 again? Total confusion now ? Glad I did not change mine yet. Will wait for final agreeable pin and wire before doing anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBen Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 (edited) In the original wiring diagram of Robert Petružela (Bob!k) & Radek Štěrba (Raster) a 1N1448 diode is sufficient. Of course, a Schottky diode is the better choice due to the low voltage loss. Problems can be, for example, the cable cross-section or the connection contact on the Atari. For the power supply, I always use 2 wires each for 0 and + 5V, see the pictures. I want to honor an unfortunately deceased man, Raster. Without him and Bob! K we would not have had the basis for the interface. He was a fine guy with a great sense of humor and a big Atari heart. We miss him. Here is a picture of Raster. Edited June 22, 2019 by BigBen 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 (edited) Yes it was very sad when Raster passed unexpectedly, he left an enormous Atari legacy. I never had the chance to speak to him but he seemed like a great guy. For those that don't know of him he was involved in all of these projects... He's the R in RMT, so thanks Raster for ALL the music! Multijoy ATADIM Cervi (Worms)/Multris and many other games. LTPJoy SDrive FLOP Magazin ...and many others we all take for granted now. Edited June 23, 2019 by Mr Robot Correction 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Philsan Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 2 hours ago, BigBen said: I want to honor an unfortunately deceased man, Raster. Without him and Bob! K we would not have had the basis for the interface. He was a fine guy with a great sense of humor and a big Atari heart. We miss him. Here is a picture of Raster. Nice photo, thank you. ❤️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_The Doctor__ Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 If you knew Raster, you would find that making updates to design and music was something he was all for. There is no need to implement a thing the exact same way it was done previously, it was all about improvement of or on that which came before. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NISMOPC Posted June 23, 2019 Share Posted June 23, 2019 9 hours ago, BigBen said: I made the setup again and tested. Sorry for my confusion, here is the correct description: Pin (0) RX line goes to the bent Pin2 of the Atmega. BigBen - Just to be clear on this. RX to Pin 2 is the correct connection to make. Leave TX as is WITH the diode inline? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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