photogoldin Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 On 6/8/2020 at 1:16 PM, Mr Robot said: I updated the page to make it a bit clearer. Download the Gerbers from https://atari8bit.net/uno2sio-sdrive-max-sio-bus-contention-fix/ Go to a PCB manufacturer, (I use OSHPark for small runs of boards) upload the Gerber file you got from my website, hit "continue" and follow the instructions. It'll cost you $5.83 for 3 of them from OSH Park. Mr. Robot the Gerbers files are no longer available on your website. can send by email photoptica@gmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveB Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Hi. I bought an assembled SDrive-MAX and screwed up the screen-calibration when playing around. I can't reach the CFG-Button anymore to correct this. Is there a way to reset to "factory defaults" or something? sdrive.atr loads and everything works from the Atari, but the screen is currently not usable... Any help would be appreciated. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 (edited) 22 hours ago, SteveB said: Hi. I bought an assembled SDrive-MAX and screwed up the screen-calibration when playing around. I can't reach the CFG-Button anymore to correct this. Is there a way to reset to "factory defaults" or something? sdrive.atr loads and everything works from the Atari, but the screen is currently not usable... Any help would be appreciated. Steve Press down on the screen with finger/stylus while applying power to the device. You will see "+" come up in a corner. Use the stylus to press the middle of the "+" on each corner. Some numbers will come up in the middle of the screen. press the "+" that you started with for a second time and the screen will return to the SDrive menu. Edited December 23, 2020 by MacRorie Changed auto-correct's predilection to change SDrive to Shrive for whatever reason 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveB Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 14 hours ago, MacRorie said: Press down on the screen with finger/stylus while applying power to the device. You will see "+" come up in a corner. Use the stylus to press the middle of the "+" on each corner. Some numbers will come up in the middle of the screen. press the "+" that you started with for a second time and the screen will return to the Shrive menu. You made my day ... works perfect again! Consider to be my hero of the day, I saw myself already working my way through the documentation how to flash this thing ... Thank you, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+MacRorie Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 7 hours ago, SteveB said: You made my day ... works perfect again! Consider to be my hero of the day, I saw myself already working my way through the documentation how to flash this thing ... Thank you, Steve No worries. This is the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Payne Posted December 25, 2020 Share Posted December 25, 2020 So, I just got 3d printed 810 case from (https://www.vintagecomputercenter.com/product/810-sdrive-max-case-only) and I'd like to put in a power and busy (data) LED as well as a switch. From reading this thread, it appears the V4/V5 boards have solder points for these BUT I made the board myself since that was what was available at the time. Can I assume I just need to add a LED with a resistor straight to the 5 volts for the power light? As far as the busy light, I assume do the same but I assume this one needs to connect to pins 5 & 8 so that I can see data activity. Yes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madness77 Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 On 12/26/2020 at 12:49 AM, Justin Payne said: So, I just got 3d printed 810 case from (https://www.vintagecomputercenter.com/product/810-sdrive-max-case-only) and I'd like to put in a power and busy (data) LED as well as a switch. From reading this thread, it appears the V4/V5 boards have solder points for these BUT I made the board myself since that was what was available at the time. Can I assume I just need to add a LED with a resistor straight to the 5 volts for the power light? As far as the busy light, I assume do the same but I assume this one needs to connect to pins 5 & 8 so that I can see data activity. Yes? you dont realy need any extra boards to connect the LEDs: http://devzine.pl/sdrive-max-leds-breadboard/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Payne Posted December 27, 2020 Share Posted December 27, 2020 4 hours ago, madness77 said: you dont realy need any extra boards to connect the LEDs: http://devzine.pl/sdrive-max-leds-breadboard/ Perfect! I think this is exactly what I'm looking for. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redroy Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 On 12/25/2020 at 3:49 PM, Justin Payne said: So, I just got 3d printed 810 case from (https://www.vintagecomputercenter.com/product/810-sdrive-max-case-only) and I'd like to put in a power and busy (data) LED as well as a switch. From reading this thread, it appears the V4/V5 boards have solder points for these BUT I made the board myself since that was what was available at the time. Can I assume I just need to add a LED with a resistor straight to the 5 volts for the power light? As far as the busy light, I assume do the same but I assume this one needs to connect to pins 5 & 8 so that I can see data activity. Yes? Have you sourced the switch? I’d like to add one but don’t know what will fit the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Payne Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 13 minutes ago, redroy said: Have you sourced the switch? I’d like to add one but don’t know what will fit the case. If I find something, I'll let you know. The switch hole is only just over 5mm and I could problem get to 6 or 7 bit I think it's a bit too small for a rocker switch but maybe I can find a small slide switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin1968 Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 (edited) These are to boards I add to all of my SDrive-MAX units. It provides the fix for physical drives along with the SDrive-MAX and provides headers for the switch and LED's. I am also now selling the case only option with optional switch and LEDs included. https://www.vintagecomputercenter.com/product/sdrive-max-sio-mod-pcb-ver-1-0 I could also sell you just the two LED's and the Switch since you already bought the case. Just email me. Best, Gavin Edited December 28, 2020 by Gavin1968 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Payne Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 2 hours ago, Gavin1968 said: These are to boards I add to all of my SDrive-MAX units. It provides the fix for physical drives along with the SDrive-MAX and provides headers for the switch and LED's. I am also now selling the case only option with optional switch and LEDs included. https://www.vintagecomputercenter.com/product/sdrive-max-sio-mod-pcb-ver-1-0 I could also sell you just the two LED's and the Switch since you already bought the case. Just email me. Best, Gavin Yeah, if I didn't already make the board I probably would have bought one. I did this way back when this was still being worked out so the first board appeared just as I finished populating my own prototype PCB BUT what switch are you using? I assume it isn't a rocker. I wasn't able to find one that small. The best I found was slide switch (https://www.adafruit.com/product/805?gclid=Cj0KCQiA_qD_BRDiARIsANjZ2LBdajbyUdKdnU7VwMSf_VwgXXvCnzrrX15M4Gm5UWZXUdSQuoeSk1IaAiwYEALw_wcB). This is, of course, a SPDT which could allow someone to switch between using the 5Vs from the computer or use an external power but most people problem just need a SPST for power the device on and off. It's such a small switch that I don't see it being something useful to use all of the time so many having it used as a power switch might be something I'd add as a larger rocker to the back and then just make this one switch between power sources. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Payne Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 (edited) I also from this https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/c-k/OS102011MA1QN1/1981430. It's only 8.6mm long and will fit and also has a right angle for attaching to a pcb. This switch is a SPDT. @Gavin1968 Here is where I see an issue with this 3d model and maybe you can tell me how you solved this. 1. It requires cutting to get this switch in 2. The cut goes below the mounting plate. #2 ain't such a big deal since it won't be visible but it might have been a better design to open this area up but dropping it down a bit towards the base and added stand offs as well and not restricting so much access to the front panel. I'd do that myself but the mounting plate goes into a slot printed in to the model. Edited December 28, 2020 by Justin Payne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin1968 Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 4 hours ago, Justin Payne said: @Gavin1968 Here is where I see an issue with this 3d model and maybe you can tell me how you solved this. 1. It requires cutting to get this switch in 2. The cut goes below the mounting plate. I use these and bend in the wings: https://usa.banggood.com/10Pcs-Black-Mini-Size-SPDT-Slide-Switches-On-Off-100V-2A-DIY-Material-p-1011746.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Payne Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Just now, Gavin1968 said: I use these and bend in the wings: https://usa.banggood.com/10Pcs-Black-Mini-Size-SPDT-Slide-Switches-On-Off-100V-2A-DIY-Material-p-1011746.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN So, do you wire them up first and then just stuff them in the hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin1968 Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 Yep and glue them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Payne Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 On 12/28/2020 at 1:54 PM, Gavin1968 said: Yep and glue them. Just to confirm, this says... 10Pcs Black Mini Size SPDT Slide Switches On-Off 100V 2A DIY Material SPDT and On-Off contradict one another since SPDT is on/on and On-Off would be SPST. I want SPDT so that I can switch between SIO power and external power. A SPST will be used for an on/off switch but for now I'm going to leave that out until I find one I like and it will be in the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Robot Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 does the slide switch have 2 or 3 pins on it? Simple! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Payne Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Just now, Mr Robot said: does the slide switch have 2 or 3 pins on it? Simple! So, there should be no on/of switches that have three contacts? Reason why I ask is that a STDP could be on-off-on, which would be three positions. I don't think that is the case here BUT could it be that these are Chinese and they just use STDP switch cases just because they were made in bulk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickJock Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 I used a DPDT slide switch on mine, and wired it up so that the power LED turns on red when powered from the SIO, and lights up blue when powered from USB. Well, that's not exactly true.... Since you can't cut off the USB power without surgery, the LED will light up whenever the USB power is supplied. However, it will light up BLUE when the switch is in the USB power position, and it will light up RED when the switch is in the SIO position. So, don't plug it into the Atari if the LED already on and showing RED! The status LED lights up RED/GREEN, depending on RX/TX. I bought my 1050-style case from @Mr Robot, and then drilled, dremelled & filed the openings for the LEDs & switch. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin1968 Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 5 hours ago, Justin Payne said: 10Pcs Black Mini Size SPDT Slide Switches On-Off 100V 2A DIY Material I use these to select between SIO power and External power, not an On/Off switch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin1968 Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 2 hours ago, StickJock said: power LED turns on red when powered from the SIO, and lights up blue Love this idea, might have to look at changing my mod board to support two color LEDs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillC Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 On 12/31/2020 at 3:21 PM, Justin Payne said: So, there should be no on/of switches that have three contacts? Reason why I ask is that a STDP could be on-off-on, which would be three positions. I don't think that is the case here BUT could it be that these are Chinese and they just use STDP switch cases just because they were made in bulk. SPDT on/on rocker switches were used by Atari for power switches on the all the XL computers, the 130XE, the 1050, etc... When purchased in large quantities there is probably no price difference to a SPST, all that is required is to leave one of the output terminals disconnected. I believe the 3 position version is usually called SPDTCO(center off=on/off/on). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StickJock Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 (edited) On 12/31/2020 at 9:31 PM, Gavin1968 said: Love this idea, might have to look at changing my mod board to support two color LEDs! Glad you like it. AliExpress sent me the wrong polarity LEDs (common anode vs common cathode), so I had to revise my wiring. I don't recall which way I had originally designed it, but it was easy enough to make it work for the other LEDs, and I didn't feel like waiting another couple of months to get the right ones in. I wish that I had gotten slide switches with longer shafts, though. I need to use a pen tip to move the switch position! Edited January 3, 2021 by StickJock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Payne Posted January 9, 2021 Share Posted January 9, 2021 On 12/31/2020 at 7:31 PM, Gavin1968 said: Love this idea, might have to look at changing my mod board to support two color LEDs! I was thinking about doing this myself. I'm going to assume the LED's that go in here are 2mm wide but so far I've only found red/green that will work. I was hoping to make the red/green for the power and then maybe a red/orange(or other color not green) for the read and write colors. If you end up finding something other than red/green, please post a link to where I can buy them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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