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Farb

SDrive-MAX ATX support

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It's not hard to compile, assuming you have the tools installed. I just did it a few minutes ago myself using Ubuntu Linux in a VirtualBox machine on my Win10 laptop. You just need the usual gcc compilers, plus xa (cross-compiler) and avrdude. Then cd into the directory for your particular screen and use avrdude to program the eeprom_writer.hex and SDrive.hex files to your board. I'm about to go test the new build on my 1088XEL.

 

 

 

The odd thing is when the slot is empty it does seem to behave as 'off' in my tests, at least as far as the 1050 is concerned.

 

 

 

 

Yes, I compiled it on Windows 10 under in Ubuntu WSL (Windows Subsystem for Linux)

Thanks for the replies :)

If only I had HD space or a Memory stick to install Ubuntu again I could use this route, but not at the moment...

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The odd thing is when the slot is empty it does seem to behave as 'off' in my tests, at least as far as the 1050 is concerned.

 

 

This is an improvement, actually, back to the same behavior as in the first versions I had installed on my device, 0.7b and 0.8. As of 0.9 or thereabouts, I could no longer access any floppy devices on my SIO chain except the SDrive-Max, except seemingly by accident. But after flashing the current (as of today) Master branch, things seem to be working as expected for now.

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Just a little hardware update. Prevents sliding, makes it look better because it sits a bit higher and protects the paint of the bottom and costs close to nothing.

 

Now I still need to find two extremely tiny screws....

post-25272-0-24448900-1540855398_thumb.jpg

post-25272-0-61074900-1540855502_thumb.jpg

Edited by Level42
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Here's another cheap option for the LCD screen when they are on sale for $9.99 USD

 

https://www.banggood.com/2_8-Inch-TFT-LCD-Shield-Touch-Display-Module-For-Arduino-UNO-p-989697.html

 

Ships in an actual cardboard box with the screen bubble wrapped inside. I had been getting the $8 ones from AliExpress

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-8-inch-TFT-color-LCD-touch-screen-module-for-Arduino-UNO-MEGA2560-R3-Development-board/32831754174.html

 

which also work great, but they only ship in a padded mailer and I've had them show up cracked.

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Here's another cheap option for the LCD screen when they are on sale for $9.99 USD

 

https://www.banggood.com/2_8-Inch-TFT-LCD-Shield-Touch-Display-Module-For-Arduino-UNO-p-989697.html

 

Ships in an actual cardboard box with the screen bubble wrapped inside. I had been getting the $8 ones from AliExpress

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-8-inch-TFT-color-LCD-touch-screen-module-for-Arduino-UNO-MEGA2560-R3-Development-board/32831754174.html

 

which also work great, but they only ship in a padded mailer and I've had them show up cracked.

 

Thanks for that, I've had far too many of the aliexpress ones show up cracked.

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Just a little hardware update. Prevents sliding, makes it look better because it sits a bit higher and protects the paint of the bottom and costs close to nothing.

 

Now I still need to find two extremely tiny screws....

Looking good Level42! I'll be doing my case in XL white too, and the same exact clear rubber feet already on hand! Ive used them also for other cases and new feet on the bottom of my custom painted XL joysticks and even my recently aquired 810 too! I'm just waiting for the parts to show up now. I got these:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EUVJYME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4LP86I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I am expecting them today or tomorrow!

Edited by Gunstar
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Here's another cheap option for the LCD screen when they are on sale for $9.99 USD

 

https://www.banggood.com/2_8-Inch-TFT-LCD-Shield-Touch-Display-Module-For-Arduino-UNO-p-989697.html

 

Ships in an actual cardboard box with the screen bubble wrapped inside. I had been getting the $8 ones from AliExpress

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-8-inch-TFT-color-LCD-touch-screen-module-for-Arduino-UNO-MEGA2560-R3-Development-board/32831754174.html

 

which also work great, but they only ship in a padded mailer and I've had them show up cracked.

I downloaded the software for this LCD and it appears to use the UC8230S chip. Is this compatible with any current Sdrive MAX firmware?

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Here's another cheap option for the LCD screen when they are on sale for $9.99 USD

 

https://www.banggood.com/2_8-Inch-TFT-LCD-Shield-Touch-Display-Module-For-Arduino-UNO-p-989697.html

 

Ships in an actual cardboard box with the screen bubble wrapped inside. I had been getting the $8 ones from AliExpress

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-8-inch-TFT-color-LCD-touch-screen-module-for-Arduino-UNO-MEGA2560-R3-Development-board/32831754174.html

 

which also work great, but they only ship in a padded mailer and I've had them show up cracked.

 

You HAVE tested this, RIGHT?

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My Arduino Uno board and Elegoo TFT touch screen with stylus arrived today, so after some assembly required, I'll have my SDrive Max just like Level42's! (in looks anyway, I don't know what brands you bought Level42) For a short while anyway, it's actually going to be a gift to a friend.And some LED lighting for my friends 800XL I'm rebuilding/restoring and some LED lighting for my 800 and 810...

post-149-0-60077400-1542228852_thumb.jpg

Edited by Gunstar
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Hi,

 

The screen from AliExpress (linked to in post #458, above) is the one that I bought (same seller). They certainly work, but a few weeks ago I ordered 2 more, but one of them arrived broken. I got a refund on the broken unit, but it is a bit annoying that all the seller needed to do was package the screens a little bit more robustly, and there wouldn't have been a problem. If I order any more I'm going to ask them to package the screens a bit better when I place the order (请更好地包装屏幕,因为它们经常坏了!).

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I know in the past I've been able to use my 1050 (or my 810 for that matter) as D1: with the SDrive-Max, but I recently got a XF551, and it apparently doesn't behave that way anymore (I'm running the latest v10 commits). Does .9 still work correctly as far as disabling the drive if a disk image isn't inserted? I have some stuff I'd love to copy of .atr files over to a few DSDD disks on the 551, but the 551 can't be set higher than D4 :(. I may give it a try tomorrow after work and see, if it doesn't I can always use my SIO2USB plug to get the job done I guess, but I'd hate to break out my laptop to do it, lol.

 

 

we have been running down some weird drive issues.. until my shipment arrives I can't nail it down, but I think a slot completely off function needs to be implemented separate from an empty slot condition. Empty slot is a real condition and should remain.. drive slot off is a needed addition if the our theory proves true.

 

Combining the empty slot as a drive being off is not how it should work for reasons of software based disk swapping without pressing a key etc. while it is the method most peripheral emulators use and it is what we expect. The ATX emulation should keep with acting exactly like a real drive.

 

Please if you will set up your real drives(if yours are capable and/or APE respeqt drives etc. as drives 5 and above... leaving the lower drives for SDrive max ATX. Then try all the normal copying and other usage.. please report your findings in the 'with other drives thread'....

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Can someone test this out? I'm down to ~29.5K freeing up lots more room for adding more features.. I've tested this a bunch and haven't had a problem yet myself, but more eyes find more bugs..

 

In case there is something drastic, please use a blank SD card or have a backup first..

 

sdrive-nodiode.zip

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can you give a run down on what all you changed or have done on that before we commence reprogramming and blanking our sd cards.

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Sure! Basically, when I sent my 'no-diode' changes upstream, the concern was the the six bytes it added to the program were not worth it to remove the need to solder in a diode... :) Plus I've heard other times that feature x can't be added due to so little free space..

 

So I started an audit of the code. avr-gcc is not always so smart on optimization so by refactoring loops and things, the program gets smaller. Also, using various functions pull in large chunks of code from libraries, that for what's needed could be coded direct also saving memory. This is my current resulting code, which should have no functional differences at all, just freeing up code space to add more fun!

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May I make a suggestion, MrMartian? Please stop referring to your changes as "no-diode" changes. Based on your earlier efforts, several users reported no changes whatsoever in the need for a diode or lack of such a need in their own setups.

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Can someone test this out? I'm down to ~29.5K freeing up lots more room for adding more features.. I've tested this a bunch and haven't had a problem yet myself, but more eyes find more bugs.

 

Nice, that code optimization sounds like something well worth merging into the main branch.

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Can someone test this out? I'm down to ~29.5K freeing up lots more room for adding more features.. I've tested this a bunch and haven't had a problem yet myself, but more eyes find more bugs..

 

In case there is something drastic, please use a blank SD card or have a backup first..

 

 

Is this based off of the .9 version or the newer 1.0 code?

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Sure! Basically, when I sent my 'no-diode' changes upstream, the concern was the the six bytes it added to the program were not worth it to remove the need to solder in a diode... :) Plus I've heard other times that feature x can't be added due to so little free space..

 

So I started an audit of the code. avr-gcc is not always so smart on optimization so by refactoring loops and things, the program gets smaller. Also, using various functions pull in large chunks of code from libraries, that for what's needed could be coded direct also saving memory. This is my current resulting code, which should have no functional differences at all, just freeing up code space to add more fun!

 

Mmmmm, so there would now be space for a "simple" if -then to remove the extra listed files that OSX creates ?

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This is based of 1.0b, and until it gets all accepted upstream I will do what I can to keep it updated.

 

As for hiding dotfiles, would you want a toggle or just automatically hide them?

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This is based of 1.0b, and until it gets all accepted upstream I will do what I can to keep it updated.

 

As for hiding dotfiles, would you want a toggle or just automatically hide them?

 

 

Can't think of a reason to toggle...is people don't use OSX it doesn't hurt unless they use some very weird filenames....

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I just installed the diode on my Sdrive Max.

 

So far I have only used it directly connected to my 600XL without external power.

 

Do I need to use external power when I daisy chain 600XL->1050->Sdrive ?

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I just installed the diode on my Sdrive Max.

 

So far I have only used it directly connected to my 600XL without external power.

 

Do I need to use external power when I daisy chain 600XL->1050->Sdrive ?

 

Nope, shouldn't need external power unless maybe it's at the end of a very long chain of devices.

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Weird....it’s absolutely dead when connected to the 1050, but working fine directly.

 

Maybe it’s because there’s a MegaSpeedy in my 1050 ?

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Weird....it’s absolutely dead when connected to the 1050, but working fine directly.

 

Maybe it’s because there’s a MegaSpeedy in my 1050 ?

 

Potentially dumb question: what computer are you trying this with? For instance, the 1200XL has a current-limiting resistor that prevents most +5V devices from working correctly until that resistor is removed and replaced with a wire or 1-ohm resistor. Also: with just the 1050 plugged in, what is the voltage reading on the +5V SIO pin on the second connector? If you swap SIO connectors on the 1050 (e.g., connect the drive to the Atari with the second port) does the SDrive-MAX still not power up when connected to the other port?

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