Jump to content
Farb

SDrive-MAX ATX support

Recommended Posts

That sounds great.

Going to order the parts tomorrow, on Amazon prime.

 

Does it support long file names ?

 

As I said, the file names as displayed in the D: entries and file lists are truncated. But when you tap on one, the long name is shown at top.

 

Let me show some pics:

 

post-30400-0-09548000-1531096946_thumb.jpg

 

post-30400-0-92698500-1531096780_thumb.jpg

 

So, here you can see there's a bunch of truncated names that very similar to each other. However, at the top of the screen, the selected title is scrolling by (couldn't catch a photo as the scrolling started, sorry!) The name you've tapped is also repeated in the status line at the bottom of the page.

 

post-30400-0-15932500-1531096788_thumb.jpg

 

Once selected, the disk entry in the D: slot is similarly truncated, but you saw the full name when you selected the file.

 

Hope this helps clarify.

Edited by DrVenkman
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, looks great.

 

I think I have found a temporary case. A TI99/4a plastic RF Modulator box. These were the cheap and nasty boxes, unlike the metal ones which can be composite modded easily - The plastic ones require a lot more work.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would it be possible to splice two SIO cables (one male and one female) in parallel to have SIO signal pass-thru for daisy chain?

 

I did something similar on a 600XL where I spliced SIO connection inside and mounted a SIO2PC USB inside the unit. Still able to use the female socket for SIO daisy chain.

Edited by NISMOPC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would it be possible to splice two SIO cables (one male and one female) in parallel to have SIO signal pass-thru for daisy chain?

Don't see why not, you could even use 2 males, and plug it directly in to the next device?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't see why not, you could even use 2 males, and plug it directly in to the next device?

Or that ! ;-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just ordered this kit. Looked for the lowest cost possible and ended up with this. Will see how it works...

 

US $17.31 Shipped

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/292243532939

 

attachicon.gifs-l16001.jpg

 

I am using the same exact UNO clone and it works great. The screen/microSD card module looks very, very similar (perhaps identical?) the Elegoo version linked earlier in the thread, which is the one I'm using. You'll probably be good to go.

 

As for me, since drumming up excitement about this project, I'm still waiting for the diodes I ordered Saturday. So to do at least a little something productive, I cut apart the broken connector end of a spare SIO cable that I've had for 15+ years, stripped the wires and checked continuity from the good end of the connector to determine which color wire corresponds to which pin. When I was looking at the cable, I realized it was a genuine Molex connector.

 

post-30400-0-63990600-1531178761_thumb.jpg

 

post-30400-0-35171700-1531178779_thumb.jpg

Edited by DrVenkman
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe the diode is a only needed if you are hooking more than one thing up at a time? If that is true, you could at least try it a little while waiting for the diode?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe the diode is a only needed if you are hooking more than one thing up at a time? If that is true, you could at least try it a little while waiting for the diode?

 

It is, but I'll be plugging this thing into a daisy chain of other devices, and I don't want to solder the cable twice. I'll have the diodes tomorrow - no giant rush. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey, it works!

 

post-30400-0-81975200-1531269521_thumb.jpg

 

But of course, being me and involving diodes (*), there's a complication. Someone please tell me which side the black band of the diode needs to be pointing - Arduino side or Atari side? Reason I asked is, I tried it both ways, the device failed to work. As soon as I removed it completely, things work great, as you can see. Is it possible I've got a bad batch of 1N4148 diodes?

 

(When I built my 1088XEL, of course I installed the two main LEDs backwards - so I'm prone to thinking myself into a circle with these things!) :P

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Someone please tell me which side the black band of the diode needs to be pointing

Cathode (black band) end soldered to the Arduino.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cathode (black band) end soldered to the Arduino.

 

Yeah, that's what I thought! Nada when I had it wired that way.

Harrumph. I'll rewire it tomorrow and try again. Thanks for the confirmation though! :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I added weak bit support to the now released version 0.6 and Klaus already has some preliminary timing-based protection support working in the latest development version. Additionally, cassette emulation seems to work really well in the latest 0.7 release.

 

Do you have some examples handy for .atx images that would be expected to work with the given level of implementation?

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Do you have some examples handy for .atx images that would be expected to work with the given level of implementation?

I am currently working on a compatibility list for the latest beta version (0.8b) which I manually build from Github. As for 0.7, a few that are known to work (although there are many others) are:

 

Agent USA

Bandits

Bruce Lee

Canyon Climber

Goonies (used to test weak bits)

Nibbler

Edited by Farb
  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just ordered all my parts.. Is there a great guide as to making the cable? I have the diodes on the way as well..

 

The cable is easy. Salvage a half-cable from a 410 or 1010, or cut an existing cable in half (to save the other half for another project!)

Strip the outer insulation and reveal the 13 individual wires inside. Identify which color wire corresponds to the following 4 or optionally 5 wires. This is the table I made from the cable I salvaged. NOTE: WIRE COLORS MAY VARY! Make sure you check with a multimeter set in continuity mode.

SIO PIN/Signal - Wire Color - Connected to Arduino?

  1. Clock In - Brown - No
  2. Clock Out - Red - No
  3. Data In - Orange - YES - TxD (diode inline, black band toward Arduino)
  4. Ground - Black- YES - GND
  5. Data Out - Green - YES - RxD
  6. Ground - Bare - No
  7. Command - Purple - YES - A5
  8. Motor Speed - Yellow - No
  9. Proceed- White - No
  10. +5V - Blue - YES - +5V (OPTIONAL - can also power Arduino with a wall wart/USB cable/battery)
  11. Audio In - White/Black - No
  12. +12V - Red/Black - No
  13. Interrupt - Gray - No

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Strip the outer insulation and reveal the 13 individual wires inside. Identify which color wire corresponds to the following 4 or optionally 5 wires. This is the table I made from the cable I salvaged. NOTE: WIRE COLORS MAY VARY! Make sure you check with a multimeter set in continuity mode.

 

You might want to take the wire colors out of that table and just provide the pinout. or make that warning REALLY BIG. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So it looks like only 4 wires are involved if your not using the +5 volts. Doesn't seem so bad.

 

Now I need a case printed.. if I only had a printed. That's a rabbit hole I choose to not run down into yet..

 

Any one with a printer care to make a cpl bucks?

Edited by GrandviewCoin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So it looks like only 4 wires are involved if your not using the +5 volts. Doesn't seem so bad.

 

Now I need a case printed.. if I only had a printed. That's a rabbit hole I choose to not run down into yet..

 

Any one with a printer care to make a cpl bucks?

Let me do a test print and get back to you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Let me do a test print and get back to you.

 

A friend printed one of the XL-style cases for me. The only thing I found is that the cable opening is far too small if you do like I did and use a vintage cable. I opened mine up with a Dremel burr tool followed by a very light sanding with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges. If you build a new cable with something like one of Lotharek's new SIO plugs and a repurposed ethernet cable, that wouldn't be necessary.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A friend printed one of the XL-style cases for me. The only thing I found is that the cable opening is far too small if you do like I did and use a vintage cable.

 

Yeah it is. I modified the model for a bigger opening before printing it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

A friend printed one of the XL-style cases for me. The only thing I found is that the cable opening is far too small if you do like I did and use a vintage cable. I opened mine up with a Dremel burr tool followed by a very light sanding with fine-grit sandpaper to smooth the edges. If you build a new cable with something like one of Lotharek's new SIO plugs and a repurposed ethernet cable, that wouldn't be necessary.

I was going to print my own SIO plug and wire it up with new wire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...