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Farb

SDrive-MAX ATX support

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Depends on your screen, not chipset. Look up what screen you use and move my script file in that folder.

 

Did you install the AVRDUDE file I linked to first ?

 

Here is a direct link to the latest version,

 

Download

 

 

If your Mac refuses to open it, you need to go to the security settings to allow it to run. (this is also true for my script).

 

Also disconnect ALL USB devices other than Sdrive Max.

Edited by Level42

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Depends on your screen, not chipset. Look up what screen you use and move my script file in that folder.

 

Did you install the AVRDUDE file I linked to first ?

 

Here is a direct link to the latest version,

 

Download

 

 

If your Mac refuses to open it, you need to go to the security settings to allow it to run. (this is also true for my script).

 

Also disconnect ALL USB devices other than Sdrive Max.

 

Hi Thanks for the help.

I installed it from the link. That worked. But it keeps reporting AVRDUDE command not found.

 

How do I look up what screen is on my Sdrive Mac? It is in a nice XL-style housing and I do not want to open it ...

 

The only thing connected to USB is the SDRIVE max. But for some unknown reason in my dev list it is referred as SIO2BT which is weird.

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How do I look up what screen is on my Sdrive Mac? It is in a nice XL-style housing and I do not want to open it

ili9341 is apparently the most commonly used screen type, so you might want to start there. The XL-style housing should be pretty easy to open up, though, if it is similar to mine. Just two screws on the bottom; easy to disassemble and reassemble.

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It's been SO long I've flashed (or used) the Sdrive that I may have forgotten something ??

 

Did you install the USB serial port drivers necessary for your Arduino? For example, if you are using a Chinese clone Arduino with a CH340 chipset, you will need to manually install the drivers first.

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How do I look up what screen is on my Sdrive Mac? It is in a nice XL-style housing and I do not want to open it ...

 

If you purchased it pre-built from someone, you can ask the seller to confirm the parts they used.

Edited by Farb

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Did you install the USB serial port drivers necessary for your Arduino? For example, if you are using a Chinese clone Arduino with a CH340 chipset, you will need to manually install the drivers first.

This turned out to be the solution.

 

Thanks @LEVEL42 for your script. It works excellent!

 

And when the Sdrive gets power the screen shortly gives the type. It was indeed 9341. Up and running with the latest firmware now!

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@BigBen - do you have access to an unmodified 810 drive that you could use to confirm timings like you did for the 1050?

 

Klaus made some code changes a couple versions ago (before you performed the 1050 timings) that may have altered the 810 delays I set originally. The ATX files I tested with still seem to work fine, but I don't have access to an 810 drive anymore to do detailed timing comparisons.

Edited by Farb

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Anyone else having problems trying to navigate out of a folder with version 1.0? Touching the two dots ".." at the top doesn't do anything. I'm using the 9341 version.

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Did you install the USB serial port drivers necessary for your Arduino? For example, if you are using a Chinese clone Arduino with a CH340 chipset, you will need to manually install the drivers first.

 

LOL you are absolutely right Farb, thanks ! ProWizard and I were communicating on Messenger and he already pointed me to the driver....yes that is what I forgot....

 

https://github.com/adrianmihalko/ch340g-ch34g-ch34x-mac-os-x-driver/blob/master/CH34x_Install_V1.5.pkg

Edited by Level42

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I emailed Klaus about something else. I was trying to boot goonies.cas. It works excellent, but as soon as the intro is running on the Atari the SDRIVE is frozen at block 204. I would like to PAUSE the Sdrive there but it does not response to anything. And after some seconds it starts running blocks, but then I am already 'too late' ... it should response to pause. So I hope Klaus can fix that.

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Anyone else having problems trying to navigate out of a folder with version 1.0? Touching the two dots ".." at the top doesn't do anything. I'm using the 9341 version.

 

Try recalibrating the screen to be sure the touchscreen registers contact near the top of the screen properly:

 

1. Make sure the device is not powered on

2. Touch anywhere on the screen with the device powered off

3. Power on the device WHILE TOUCHING THE SCREEN

4. Calibrate - you should see the first white cross at the top left corner of the screen; with current firmware, it will turn green to register your touch. Complete the four corners and let the device boot up as normal.

 

At this point, if your device is working correctly you shouldn't have any trouble. I updated my device two nights ago and used it to navigate up and down the folder structure with no issue.

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use a stylus or pointy but not sharp but rounded tip instrument during calibration...

you can use finger touches for all else and it works fine

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Try recalibrating the screen to be sure the touchscreen registers contact near the top of the screen properly:

 

1. Make sure the device is not powered on

2. Touch anywhere on the screen with the device powered off

3. Power on the device WHILE TOUCHING THE SCREEN

4. Calibrate - you should see the first white cross at the top left corner of the screen; with current firmware, it will turn green to register your touch. Complete the four corners and let the device boot up as normal.

 

At this point, if your device is working correctly you shouldn't have any trouble. I updated my device two nights ago and used it to navigate up and down the folder structure with no issue.

 

Something weird must've happened the first time I did it, because I reflashed and recalibrated and everything is fine now.

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Hello everybody,

I wish you all a happy new year.
Here's my solution for the SIO bus problem when more than one bus subscriber is connected.
The reason: TX on the UN board is connected to the USB chip via a 1K resistor and is therefore constantly supplied with + 5V.

If you have the Atmega in the DIP version, you just need to bend pin 2 out of the socket and connect it to the lead of 1-TX. For a software update, it must be reconnected.

 

All other versions require a small board with a 74LS07 or 74HC07 or 74HCT07 and two 4.7K resistors. The diode is no longer needed. Pictures say more than words.

 

If the SDrive-Max is used alone on the SIO bus, no change is necessary.

 

BigBen

post-4842-0-90304300-1546458904_thumb.jpeg

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post-4842-0-71635500-1546459001_thumb.jpeg

post-4842-0-24541900-1546459010_thumb.jpeg

post-4842-0-36636300-1546459034_thumb.jpeg

post-4842-0-64411400-1546459048_thumb.jpeg

post-4842-0-36129600-1546459714_thumb.png

Edited by BigBen
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@BigBen - do you have access to an unmodified 810 drive that you could use to confirm timings like you did for the 1050?

 

Klaus made some code changes a couple versions ago (before you performed the 1050 timings) that may have altered the 810 delays I set originally. The ATX files I tested with still seem to work fine, but I don't have access to an 810 drive anymore to do detailed timing comparisons.

 

Hi Daniel,

all my 810 drives except for the ones with Happy do not work anymore. If one is repaired I also create from the drive a timing list including empty disk.

If there are any changes then you can determine them yourself.

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skriegel has written a manual for MAC user, unfortunately in German.

What is missing when using the CH340 chipset driver installation. He can also help with problems.

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Good work BigBen. This makes me want to buy an Arduino with a socketed DIL ATMEGA instead of the current SMD one I have.

 

You can easily integrate a switch between that pin and the socket so it will be possible to flash and run it just by using the switch.

 

Not so keen on making that extra PCB....yeah I know....I'm lazy.

 

 

This looks like a suitable candidate.....a bit more expensive than the full SMD one I have now...but whatever....still a just a few bucks....

 

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/igh-quality-One-set-UNO-R3-Official-Box-ATMEGA16U2-MEGA328P-Chip-For-Arduino-UNO-R3-Development/32948661593.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.90.1053a854alVs9a&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10068_319_317_10696_10084_453_454_10083_10618_10304_10307_10820_10821_10301_537_536_10843_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_52,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=a773b6ad-1bde-4606-a256-7509a9437020-15&algo_pvid=a773b6ad-1bde-4606-a256-7509a9437020

 

 

 

 

Another (stupid ?) question: can't another spare port of the Arduino be used for this ? Or are all ports used by the LCD ?

Edited by Level42

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...

 

Another (stupid ?) question: can't another spare port of the Arduino be used for this ? Or are all ports used by the LCD ?

 

Not stupid! All ports of the Uno are busy, nothing is free. The data transfer runs only via these two ports.

Edited by BigBen
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The Atmega328P - Pin3 TD1-PD1 (TXD) is connected via a 1k resistor to the USB chip Atmega16U2 Pin8 - MATXD.

When the voltage is applied, the output of the Atmega16U2 is always + 5V. No participant manages to set the signal to 0V on the SIO bus, see Oszi picture SIO_Error.

Only with the circuit supplement, the problem is solved, SIO_OK:

post-4842-0-05333700-1546816272.png

post-4842-0-62301300-1546816281.png

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I also have the SMD version of the UNO board so I'll look forward to building the small stripboard at the point when I hopefully also get the mini xf551 built so I can then use them both together. Will the fix with the SMD version prevent future firmware updates being performed via USB as it does with the DIP version without adding a switch to re-establish the 5v?

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I am curious if we could also try and shove in some sort of R: (RS232) emulation, even if it needs its own handler... :)

 

-Thom

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So this should be drag and drop for the firmware flashing ? Did you try it ?

 

I didn't try it yet, I'm still using avrdude but I'll give it a go for the next firmware update. It requires Arduino be installed, I think it is just a front end to fill in the correct command line params

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I haven't looked but couldn't the smd pin assignment be matched up and the trace cut/ then a switch be added to allow programming vs operation as well, or is there some other issue. I admit I skimmed and can't see pictures at the moment.. so you might have already provided something I can not see...

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