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SDrive-MAX ATX support

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EDIT:

When you say the boards conflicts with the socketed ATMega, do you mean you have this UNO?

 

 

Reconnect that pin if you want to update the firmware. I'd just install a switch!

Yes, I have this type. I‘ll try that. So no diodes, resisistors, etc. required?

 

 

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Yes, I have this type. I‘ll try that. So no diodes, resisistors, etc. required?

 

 

Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

 

 

 

"If you have the Atmega in the DIP version, you just need to bend pin 2 out of the socket and connect it to the lead of 1-TX. For a software update, it must be reconnected."

 

Here's the original post by BigBen

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/275629-sdrive-max-atx-support/page-22?do=findComment&comment=4189049

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Just tried to put together my first SDrive Max but no dice. I have two Arduino Uno R3. Looks like one's faulty as it isn't being picked up by anything. I managed to finally figure out how to flash the other one in Windows from the Linux instructions several pages back. Set up the microSD card, plugged in the screen and ... nothing. Just a white screen. No calibration crosshairs.

 

I picked up a cheap alternative to the Elegoo screen. Same components and layout. But I'm not getting anything from it other than a white screen. As I haven't done anything with Arduino so not sure how I can go about testing the screen. Guess I'll have to hunt around for a Hello World or something. Bugger it ... I'll try and write my own.

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the different builds thu-out have been for use with windows... the avrdude flasher was included a number of times... hopefully you waited like you were supposed to allowing the flashing to catch up on the ardy and then unpugged the usb cord bing bong.... waited a moment and plugged usb in again bong bing then pressed the key to continue the flashing... waiting at the end for ardy to catch up...

 

a snapshot of the screen front and back woud be helpful.. and what screen you chose to flash it with...

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"If you have the Atmega in the DIP version, you just need to bend pin 2 out of the socket and connect it to the lead of 1-TX. For a software update, it must be reconnected."

 

Here's the original post by BigBen

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/275629-sdrive-max-atx-support/page-22?do=findComment&comment=4189049

 

How about using a DPDT switch to select normal or program mode?

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How about using a DPDT switch to select normal or program mode?

 

Why DPDT? Couldn't you just tick a solid wire into the socket, and wire that to one side of SPST and then other side of SPST to the pin?

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Yeah, I guess the SIO line wouldn't be necessary for programming since it's done using USB.

 

Good catch.

:)

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the different builds thu-out have been for use with windows... the avrdude flasher was included a number of times... hopefully you waited like you were supposed to allowing the flashing to catch up on the ardy and then unpugged the usb cord bing bong.... waited a moment and plugged usb in again bong bing then pressed the key to continue the flashing... waiting at the end for ardy to catch up...

 

a snapshot of the screen front and back woud be helpful.. and what screen you chose to flash it with...

 

Finally got the screen working. I didn't realise there were different LCD chipsets and was following the instructions "by the letter". This screen uses the hx8347i.

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If you have the Atmega in the DIP version, you just need to bend pin 2 out of the socket and connect it to the lead of 1-TX. For a software update, it must be reconnected.

 

 

I tried this but as it doesn't work I'm not sure if I understood "connect it to the lead of 1-TX" correctly.

 

I bent up pin two and wired it to the Atari Data Out line - line 5.

I wired all the other connections as per instructions (using a diode between Arduino TxD and Atari Data In - line 3).

 

I put in a switch to be able to switch the Arduino back to USB in order to power it up. That works, I can flash the Arduino with the switch set to connect pin 2 to it's socket.

 

When I connect to the Atari, I get a grey striped display and no boot device is found. (Same SD card works fine with another Uno that uses the little adapter board and boots to the SDrive menu on the Atari).

 

Interestingly, another Uno with the adapter board that is identical except for the SIO cable doesn't work either. When booting, D0: is blue and the green indicator is on very briefly, but then it continues with the "rasp" and no drive is found.

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Hello everybody,

I wish you all a happy new year.

Here's my solution for the SIO bus problem when more than one bus subscriber is connected.

The reason: TX on the UN board is connected to the USB chip via a 1K resistor and is therefore constantly supplied with + 5V.

 

If you have the Atmega in the DIP version, you just need to bend pin 2 out of the socket and connect it to the lead of 1-TX. For a software update, it must be reconnected.

 

Hi BigBen (or anyone else who understands this),

 

I'm having trouble with the last sentence that I have quoted above.

 

The picture shows pin 2 bent out of its socket, but then not attached to anything. But the statement above says "it" should be connected to the lead of 1-TX.

 

Is "it" pin 2 of the Atmega Dip?

 

What exactly is the "lead of 1-TX? Does this refer to the Pin 1-TX on the Uno? (Circled here:)

post-50483-0-47501300-1560173174_thumb.jpg

 

Now that I am typing this, I think it makes sense. On the board, Pin 2 of the ATMega328P is receive, so we are wiring receive on the processor to transmit on the pin header? (Although, looking at pictures, it kind of looks like pin 2 on the mega already has a trace running to the 1-TX pin header. But, I'm having trouble finding high-quality images of the board and I am not at home right now, so cannot look at the actual board.)

 

post-50483-0-54227800-1560173362_thumb.png

 

Thank you all of indulging my ignorance here.

 

-Todd

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Better with picture.
Arduino Uno Atmega put out of the DIL socket and bent out Pin3, put it in the socket and connect with SIO Pin3.

 

 

post-4842-0-28576900-1560207541.jpg

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Better with picture.

Arduino Uno Atmega put out of the DIL socket and bent out Pin3, put it in the socket and connect with SIO Pin3.

 

 

 

OK, makes more sense now with TXD being connected to Data In. I assume the diode should still be in with the cathode towards AtMega pin 3?

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I bought a pre-built example of one of @Mr Robot‘s v3 mod boards for the SDrive-MAX I had put together last year and installed it today. Unfortunately, the screen for my unit slipped out of my hand, struck a tool on my workbench and got cracked alone one corner, and now no longer correctly registers touches. :( However, I usually have a generic DOS 2.5 boot disk set as D1: and that let me at least do tests on the basic I/O functionality.


The verdict? Works perfectly! I was able to read from, write to and copy files between ATR files mounted on the SDrive-MAX (D1:), a physical Happy 1050 configured as D2:, and an ATR mounted as D3: in the SIDEloader of my 1088XLD. All of the read, wrote and copied files to, from and amongst one another perfectly. So glad to have gotten this mod installed for maximum flexibility. I just wish I hadn’t broken my screen with my fumble-fingers. I have a replacement coming Monday from Amazon but that’s $16 I’d rather not have had to spend. D’oh. 

 

As you can see from my pics, I brushed against one part of the UNO interface riser with my desoldering gun and melted some plastic. Fortunately I was able to use a fine jeweler’s screwdriver to open it back up again and the pins from the screen fit fine again. But the v3 mod board doesn’t quite line up correctly with the new header pins I installed on the UNO - I had to bend them “outboard” a tiny bit to get the new board mounted. The new Dupont connector for the SIO cable was a bit of a tight fit too but it went on. 

 

So once my new screen arrives (and I got a shipping email as I was writing this post), I’ll be back in business 100%. 

15A5CC03-CCFA-442A-80B5-5B14111BAE1A.jpeg

3624E593-93A3-45DD-9384-5320D1EDEDC3.jpeg

EE46B6F4-5D8A-4A9B-ADF3-49376DC1799D.jpeg

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I love the SDMAX, is anyone doing these at nice prices prebuilt?

 

Fathers day today and my birthday soon so attempting to persuade my lot that I need a little present :)

Edited by Mclaneinc

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11 minutes ago, Mclaneinc said:

I love the SDMAX, is anyone doing these at nice prices prebuilt?

 

Fathers day today and my birthday soon so attempting to persuade my lot that I need a little present :)

In the US, I know both @Gavin1968 and @MacRorie sell pre-assembled units. I don’t know if anyone in the UK or Europe is doing them. Assembly is pretty simple - the trickiest parts of building one from scratch are ID’d the wires for each SIO pin and then connecting them to the UNO or the mod board. The cases can be 3D printed from any commercial service. Programming is also fairly simple - there are tons of posts back in the thread on how to do it. 

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Thanks DrV, I don't trust my eye's these days, used to solder a lot but lately its like my eye's get worse by the day..

 

Saw the posts on building but shied away just in case I made a mess :)

 

Maybe somebody in the UK will do them at some point, its not urgent as I have an SIO2USB and drives but those things look so damn cool :)

 

One day...

 

Thanks for your help..

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1 hour ago, Mclaneinc said:

Thanks DrV, I don't trust my eye's these days, used to solder a lot but lately its like my eye's get worse by the day..

 

Saw the posts on building but shied away just in case I made a mess :)

 

Maybe somebody in the UK will do them at some point, its not urgent as I have an SIO2USB and drives but those things look so damn cool :)

 

One day...

 

Thanks for your help..

Isn't the TBA doing them, don't know there location

And yes they are really cool

 

https://thebrewingacademy.com/collections/atari-800-xl-xe-xel-xld

Edited by Umberto

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I'd get from America but I've been hit with import duty 5 times in the last year or so for stuff my daughter ordered..Its a real OUCH feeling :)

 

But thanks Umberto for the thought...

 

Aha, found one on Ebay in the UK, treat purchased in nice case as well...Smile like Cheshire cat ;)

Edited by Mclaneinc
A woohoo moment...

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There's this post from Facebook a while ago, it's the cheapest I've seen them. 

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/181644898539691/permalink/1950168148354015/?sale_post_id=1950168148354015

 

I'd expect there are people on abbuc.de making them for people locally

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Yes, saw a whole batch from Germany on Ebay, mines from the UK..

 

Just need to source a PSU for it now..Just was reading that thread and it goes into quite detail that you really should use an external PSU...Must write back to the guy I'm getting it from and ask him..

 

If not, any suggestions for a PSU people?

 

I have a box of old PSU's from various items but I bet they are all 12v, as they are premade I don't want to start ripping them open as many come factory sealed and look horrible after being butchered open.

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Some people say you don't need external power supply, other people say you'd better use it...

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2 hours ago, Mclaneinc said:

Yes, saw a whole batch from Germany on Ebay, mines from the UK..

 

Just need to source a PSU for it now..Just was reading that thread and it goes into quite detail that you really should use an external PSU...Must write back to the guy I'm getting it from and ask him..

 

If not, any suggestions for a PSU people?

 

 

1 hour ago, Philsan said:

Some people say you don't need external power supply, other people say you'd better use it...

 

Here’s the bottom line on the power supply - you can use EITHER an external PSU, OR power the thing from the SIO +5V line, but you must never have both connected at the same time (dead Arduino!).  

 

Now the caveats: for SIO power, you have to take into account the Arduino boot process and time. On an 800 (I haven’t tested a 400), the Atari boots up faster than the Arduino, so the Atari never “sees” a drive attached and won’t boot from the SDrive-MAX. However, in my tests with an XL, the Atari boot process is a bit slower and the Arduino boots up fast enough to work. If you have a machine that allows a cold-boot without actually cycling the power (with an OS mod like a U1MB), the short delay to boot the Arduino doesn’t matter because you can cold-boot after the Arduino is up and running if necessary.

 

For an external power supply, any Arduino PSU will work - there are stand-alone supplies that plug into a barrel jack on the UNO or you can use a USB PSU; UNO boards vary as to whether they have a USB type B (full size) plug or a mini- or micro-USB connector. You typically use this connector to program the ATmega chip but it will also power the board. Just make to use a 5V supply designed for an UNO with the right connector for your board.

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