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SDrive-MAX ATX support

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Clean and reseat pokey/pia (de oxit is our friend)

make sure SIO pins 3 and 5 do not have capacitors still installed.

touch up SIO port solder joints if needed

make sure SIO port and jack are clean (again de oxit is our friend)

make sure power supply to the Atari put's out 1.5 A or more..

Edited by _The Doctor__

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Thank you. Is this a common problem as they age?

 

The power supply is a brand new fancy one from The Brewing Academy so that's probably fine. 

 

The rest except de oxidize I'll need help with looking into.

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Just now, JagChris said:

Thank you. Is this a common problem as they age?

 

The power supply is a brand new fancy one from The Brewing Academy so that's probably fine. 

 

The rest except de oxidize I'll need help with looking into.

Never heard of a problem like that. I did have a 1200XL with a bad POKEY socket - one of the socket wipes was corroded so badly if had just broken off. I had to replace the socket, along with two others which were in pretty rough shape. 

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Yeah I just confirmed it. After a cool down period my 600XL needs at least a 5 minute warm up before it will even look at the SDMax. 

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I've seen the SDmax powered by a laptop usb and I currently have mine on a low power outlet but I've used regular output as well.

 

Are there any issues with plugging the SDmax into a low power USB port or must it be full blast? Or does it matter?

Edited by JagChris
Die autocorrect, die!

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1 hour ago, JagChris said:

I've seen the SDmax powered by a laptop usb and I currently have mine on a low power outlet but I've used regular output as well.

 

Are there any issues with plugging the SDmax into a low power USB port or must it be full blast? Or does it matter?

Power to the SDrive should not affect whether the 600 sees it or not.  I would check to see if it has difficulties seeing other devices on the SIO chain as well.  Something is marginal inside of the XL, I suspect.

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Might be a misunderstanding.

 

I'm not having issues. I'm just making sure what kind of power range i can use. That I'm not inadvertently overpowering it or vice versa. 

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6 minutes ago, JagChris said:

Might be a misunderstanding.

 

I'm not having issues.

Wait, didn't you say your 600XL can't communicate with the SDrive-MAX until the computer has been warmed up? 

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The Sdrive-max should only be powered by it's barrel jack power connector or from the Atari with a good power supply, which it sounds like you have...

while some people have made some corrections and put a switch on the usb power etc... it's come up from time to time as an issue...

they put the power section on the ardy/uno for good reason... they never put anything extra on things these days if they don't have to....

Edited by _The Doctor__

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@JagChris,

corrosion/oxidation is a random issue on all old electronic things from back in the day, whether it's a home computer, video arcade, or any consumer items...

It's happened with sockets and without... the internet is full of example... corroded sockets, corroded chip legs, soldered or not, seriously... I've seen the nice shiny metal flaking off the legs... had to take them out, use some deoxit and retin the legs, those that wouldn't take it had to be replaced, I couldn't see full on attempting to electroplate sensitive chip legs... but I've seen weaker version work, the same soft weak electroplate repair method used on pcb fingers done to chip legs one at a time... it's insane but if you can't buy hens teeth you'll try just about anything... lucky for us there are plenty of Atari parts still or some folks are making them....

Edited by _The Doctor__

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Help

 

I want to make my own Sdrive and I'm almost there!

 

can some one post an updated link for the UNO2SIO so I can get some made

all the ones I try are not working (not bothered which reversion)

 

Thanks in advance!

 

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51 minutes ago, bazza666 said:

can some one post an updated link for the UNO2SIO so I can get some made

all the ones I try are not working (not bothered which reversion)

 

I've made a bunch of these and they're all working great.

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Help

 

I want to make my own Sdive and i'm almost there!

 

can some one post an updated link for the UNO2SIO 

all the ones I try are not working (not bothered which reversion)

 

Thanks in advance!

 

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I updated the page to make it a bit clearer. Download the Gerbers from https://atari8bit.net/uno2sio-sdrive-max-sio-bus-contention-fix/ 

Go to a PCB manufacturer, (I use OSHPark for small runs of boards) upload the Gerber file you got from my website, hit "continue" and follow the instructions. It'll cost you $5.83 for 3 of them from OSH Park.

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This is cool.  I've been planning to get one of these (S-Drive Max) for a while.  This fix is definitely something I'd want in mine.

 

I don't know that I want to go the route of building an S-Drive Max myself (I already have mountains of projects I haven't gotten to).  Does anyone know if any of the makers of S-Drive Max (i.e. Brewing Academy, Retrohax, etc) have integrated this fix into the units they sell ?  (If not, then I'd go the route of fixing it myself).

 

I do like the professional looking enclosure for the Retrohax one.  3D printing is cool, but I've yet to see anything with professional finish and fit (but that could be the printer, material, and settings used to print the enclosures/etc).

 

Beyonod fit/finish, anyone have any experiences with pre-made units from various sources and have any recommendations (via PM, or if relevant for others, here ?)....

 

 

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I don't know about retrohax but Brewing Academy, Vintage Computer Center and Chuck Caley on eBay (don't know his ebay handle) all install an UNO2SIO board, I think it's kind of standard now when building one. Most of them will also use the cases I designed or a remix of them.

 

Retrohax seem to be going their own way with the cases and they seal them with a warranty sticker so no way to look inside. I'm sure they have a presence on these forums and will pop by to update this thread on whether they use an UNO2SIO.

 

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2 hours ago, Mr Robot said:

I don't know about retrohax but Brewing Academy, Vintage Computer Center and Chuck Caley on eBay (don't know his ebay handle) all install an UNO2SIO board, I think it's kind of standard now when building one. Most of them will also use the cases I designed or a remix of them.

 

Retrohax seem to be going their own way with the cases and they seal them with a warranty sticker so no way to look inside. I'm sure they have a presence on these forums and will pop by to update this thread on whether they use an UNO2SIO.

 

I think @drygol  (retrohax) also installs UNO2SIO boards in his SDrives

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Firmware upgrade:

 

I am trying to upgrade the firmware but I don't know which LCD controller I have (I didn't build it). Is there anyway to know which firmware variant was flashed before? Or should I just try to reflash the firmware for every controller one by one, until one that works?

 

Probably I am missing something here: Last version is supposed to have autodetection? Then why there are still multiple versions for each LCD controller?

 

Thanks,

Edited by ijor

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1 hour ago, ijor said:

should I just try to reflash the firmware for every controller one by one, until one that works?

yes

 

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it may say what it is during boot up for a split second or going into calibration and out.

just work your way through the choices if you don't know what you have.

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