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Budget Atari and Capcom arcade cabinets to see release this fall!


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it has begun... i've started my Arcade 1up mods.

 

1st test up - Xbox one vertical games only

==================

Pac-Man

Ms. Pac-Man

Galaga

Dig Dug

[Raiden - various ones later on]

 

Colors are much better when viewed head-on, and there is no distortion [although it's in the video]

Sound is coming off stereo speakers also.

 

Also, the shiny reflection is off the control panel protector, which made in 4 weeks as promised.

No complaints there. I don't like the plastic feel, so i'm debating about what to do with it.

Might just stick with a soft wrist wrest (computer one) instead.

 

pacman.jpg

galaga.jpg

mspac.jpg

digdug1.jpg

digdug1b.jpg

digdug2.jpg

 

 

goals

===============================

multiple inputs

1) xbox one [HDMI]

2) xbox 360 [VGA->DVI]

3) pc with MAME/other emulators, games [VGA]

 

controls

===============

1) stock

2) usb add-ons [trackball, spinner, joysticks]

 

audio

=================

1) full stereo sound [optional subwoofer later on]

 

video

===============

1) will replace monitor

2) LCD marquee [parts ordered]

3) Possible switch to modified stock board [not sure]

 

 

so far, i have the LCD controller:

----------------------------------

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JCQCQH6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

Currently, there are marquees around them that

can't be removed.

 

 

Once I get more equipment, I will add more

notes to it.

 

later

-1

Edited by negative1
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If you want to customize it yourself, and have an extra TV and computer around, the starting point is that : $550

 

0513956_847343.jpg

 

https://www.microcenter.com/product/513956/retro-arcade-2-player-stand-up-cabinet---unassembled

 

PRODUCT INFORMATION SKU

847343 Mfr Part# MCLGC-001

UPC GENERAL

Type

Stand Up Cabinet Kit

 

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

Color

Black

 

PHYSICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Width

32.00 in. (812.80 mm)

Depth

32.00 in. (812.80 mm)

Height

70.00 in. (1778.00 mm)

Weight

120.00 lbs. (54.43 kg)

 

PACKAGE CONTENTS

What's in the Box

All the wood and acrylic panels to assemble a Stand Up Arcade Cabinet.

========================================================================

 

So it's 120 pounds to start off, and add the weight of a TV, controls etc, it shouldn't

be more than 150 or so, so that shouldn't be a problem for 2 people.

 

If people are buying multiple arcade 1up's, then putting in 1 of these shouldn't be a problem.

 

Also, you're getting much higher quality too. And for people that were modding their machines,

they are putting in all new controls anyways.

 

so $550 + monitor + pi/computer + sound + controls (buttons/joysticks/wires)+ graphics (side/control panel/t molding) = final cost

 

i'm pretty sure that's under $1000 if you don't go overboard on everything. they even sell all the other

components separately there also.

 

later

-1

 

No controls and such is a no deal for me. I could figure out the monitor and PI, but Im no expert on the controller/buttons thing. $600 out the door for all pieces one would be my price point :)

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Got my 12-in-1 yesterday...built it before the niece/nephews came over in the afternoon....it was the hit of the day as my kids and my sister's kids jostled for position in line for over an hour. (Personally I had a ton of fun playing Lunar Lander later after a few beers/wine...)

 

The spinner is pretty stinky, as advertised. The main fire button is, also, pretty stinky. I'm more bothered by the fact that small dust particles are already starting to get inside my screen. :( And frankly....I think the arcade is too small without the riser, and looks kind of stupid WITH the riser. BUT....everybody had fun with it.

 

Interestingly, with the entire control panel being a drop in/plug and play unit...I wonder if anyone will offer a service for doing upgrades...or even create a new drop in with better parts?

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No controls and such is a no deal for me. I could figure out the monitor and PI, but Im no expert on the controller/buttons thing. $600 out the door for all pieces one would be my price point :)

putting together the controls, and wiring is the easy part for me.

it's the pi stuff that's crazy and iffy, unless you know what you're doing. go figure.

 

all you have to do is find someone to do it.

 

i watched the putting it together video, and it was pretty simple it seemed:

 

it might be intimidating at first, but after you wire up one control, its the

same thing over and over again.

 

later

-1

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Got my 12-in-1 yesterday...built it before the niece/nephews came over in the afternoon....it was the hit of the day as my kids and my sister's kids jostled for position in line for over an hour. (Personally I had a ton of fun playing Lunar Lander later after a few beers/wine...)

 

The spinner is pretty stinky, as advertised. The main fire button is, also, pretty stinky. I'm more bothered by the fact that small dust particles are already starting to get inside my screen. :( And frankly....I think the arcade is too small without the riser, and looks kind of stupid WITH the riser. BUT....everybody had fun with it.

 

Interestingly, with the entire control panel being a drop in/plug and play unit...I wonder if anyone will offer a service for doing upgrades...or even create a new drop in with better parts?

its cheap enough to replace the joysticks and buttons by yourself.

 

the spinner and the trackball would be harder.

 

most people are just doing it themselves, since the parts are easily replaceable.

 

later

-1

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its cheap enough to replace the joysticks and buttons by yourself.

 

the spinner and the trackball would be harder.

 

most people are just doing it themselves, since the parts are easily replaceable.

 

later

-1

 

Yeah if I had the SF2 one or something...I'd already have the parts ordered!

 

The spinner/trackball unit is totally sealed from the bottom and I figured I better build the thing BEFORE I started tearing it apart to make it better, so I just got it working. But maybe next week...

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All done! Had zero problems with mine.. everything is in top shape, no scratches etc. It also plays well and I had pretty good games of Centipede, Crystal Castles, and Tempest. Cheap feeling controls aside, it plays 100% fine! I have yet to try Quantum though as I figure it'd be a non-starter. We'll see.

 

I'm thinking I'm probably leaving it 100% stock.. not modding the controls or anything. To me it's just not worth the effort.. yet. If the trackball or spinner response starts to deteriorate, then maybe I'd consider it.

 

But again so far.. zero complaints. Although I will say it is a huge pain in the butt taking off the stickers off the control panel protector. We almost came to believe that it was frosted, which is how you see it in the pic below. :lol: It's since been conquered and now is clear, as it should be.

 

 

GeDTIkp.jpg

 

And just because, here's my old Pac cab.. which I still need to re-install the bezel for. I sometimes feel we have to post these afterwards to stave off any "not a real arcade" replies as if they're enlightening us ignorant people. :P

 

DuHTPnG.jpg

 

 

 

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Although I will say it is a huge pain in the butt taking off the stickers off the control panel protector. We almost came to believe that it was frosted

 

Thanks for pointing this out. I was puzzled by the appearance of the protector as well and wasn't sure what I was going to do about this 'frosted' cover. Odd that the little instruction sheet that comes with it didn't mention that there were stickers/coverings to remove as it certainly isn't obvious.

 

Have to admit, I am still loving my 12-in-1 with the Spin-Trak spinner mod.

Edited by mckafka99
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lol wait what?? They had a bootleg/hack rom on there? :lol: Hilarious

It's NOT a bootleg, it's an official ROM from Namco.

 

Excerpt from the MOO emulator "readme.txt":

g0 = Galaxian (NAMCO ROM DROP, modified version of mame:"galaxian" = Namco - Set 1)

g1 = Galaga (NAMCO ROM DROP, modified version of mame:"galagao" = Namco - Rev A)
And of course they had to hack ALL the roms,

how else are they going to put the licensing information on there.

 

Unless you know of some other magic way of doing it.

 

later

-1

Edited by negative1
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Have you noticed any lag/screen tearing? I'm working on converting my brother's Galaga cab to Retropie, but I'm having a lot of performance issues in vertical mode. It's a 3B+ with heat sinks and a fan and it's having trouble running games with the screen rotated. Scrolling games have a lot of tearing and single screen games aren't very smooth - even Pac-Man.

 

I did some searching and found many others having this issue when running games vertically, but no solutions yet. Just curious how it's running for you.

 

You will see tearing if you flip the system using display_rotate in the config file. If you flip it using the libretto emulator settings, it's smooth as silk. The downside is that Emulation Station and other configuration screens can't be flipped, so they will be sideways. Hopefully that's addressed at some point in an update.

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You will see tearing if you flip the system using display_rotate in the config file. If you flip it using the libretto emulator settings, it's smooth as silk. The downside is that Emulation Station and other configuration screens can't be flipped, so they will be sideways. Hopefully that's addressed at some point in an update.

 

Thanks, I eventually figured it out. I also found out that you can rotate Emulation Station separately by adding the --screenrotate launch parameter to the autostart.sh file. You need to install emulationstation-dev for it to work though.

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Apparently, there's a new version of the 12-1 board, which fixes

 

the screen alignment issue in Millipede.

 

Doubtful, that the Liberator reset bug is fixed though.

 

 

later

-1

 

What's the reset bug? I've had a couple games on my 12-1 seemingly switch which button (1p or 2p) resets the system. Believe Liberator was one, Tempest also. The manual as I recall says it should be the p2 button....mine seems to work mostly on p1.

 

I googled "reset bug arcade 1up", but saw many things I don't understand. Some constant complaint that Quantum can only be played to level 2 due to trackball sensitivity...how the heck am I getting to level 4 then? (I saw people dogging on Quantum...admittedly I've never played the arcade version so I don't know what it should "feel" like, but I have had a ton of fun with it).

 

Ugh and...any advice for getting dust flecks out from underneath the screen? I am very loathe to take the screen apart but mine has a nice little black piece of dust on the inside driving me bonkers...

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What's the reset bug? I've had a couple games on my 12-1 seemingly switch which button (1p or 2p) resets the system. Believe Liberator was one, Tempest also. The manual as I recall says it should be the p2 button....mine seems to work mostly on p1.

 

I googled "reset bug arcade 1up", but saw many things I don't understand. Some constant complaint that Quantum can only be played to level 2 due to trackball sensitivity...how the heck am I getting to level 4 then? (I saw people dogging on Quantum...admittedly I've never played the arcade version so I don't know what it should "feel" like, but I have had a ton of fun with it).

 

Ugh and...any advice for getting dust flecks out from underneath the screen? I am very loathe to take the screen apart but mine has a nice little black piece of dust on the inside driving me bonkers...

liberator resets on level 19/22 [use the advanced start]

this has been a known issue, and remains unfixed for ages since MAME .106, they never figured out how to fix it either.

 

and since nobody else, except atari [and krome studios] figured out how to do it right on microsoft gameroom,

it's not going to get fixed anytime soon.

 

quantum can be 'played' if you call it that. but the default settings, and trackball sensitivity settings

are so terrible. it's more like torturing yourself, if you don't do a trackball mod, and the USB mod

to access the settings.

 

later

-1

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Apparently, there's a new version of the 12-1 board, which fixes

 

the screen alignment issue in Millipede.

 

Doubtful, that the Liberator reset bug is fixed though.

 

 

 

later

-1

 

Interesting, never noticed that on mine but then I don't normally play Millipede on the 12-in-1, I play it on the Centipede cab.

 

I just got a new PCB for the 12-in-1 the other day so now I know what its for. Its too bad its not a fix for the Liberator bug because that's what I had opened a ticket with 1Up for. I'll guess I'll have to swap the board out and see it anything changed with Liberator.

 

Oh and there is good news on the horizon for a drop in, plug and play spinner replacement:

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1450378475106130/permalink/1581285172015459/

 

I'd love to show the video but I can't figure out how to embed Facebook videos on AtariAge posts.

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I just got a new PCB for the 12-in-1 the other day so now I know what its for. Its too bad its not a fix for the Liberator bug because that's what I had opened a ticket with 1Up for. I'll guess I'll have to swap the board out and see it anything changed with Liberator.

How did you get the PCB? I have the 12-1 and got the control panel protector from them.. are they going to also automatically send one my way? Or do I need to request it? Just curious..

 

Oh and there is good news on the horizon for a drop in, plug and play spinner replacement:

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1450378475106130/permalink/1581285172015459/

All I see is some kind of "join group" page... but when I click join group it requires a Facebook account. Do you have a screenshot maybe?

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All I see is some kind of "join group" page... but when I click join group it requires a Facebook account. Do you have a screenshot maybe?

 

It's part of the official fan group on Facebook. Basically, he's gauging interest (to know numbers to produce) for a drop-in replacement (real) spinner for the 12-in-1 or Asteroids cabinets. The estimated price is around $50. That, combined with the keyboard hack to adjust trackball sensitivity should be enough to bring these in line with what they should have been in the first place, although a drop-in replacement for the trackball is apparently in the planning as well.

 

tumblr_pkj6ujfgYs1rben3uo2_540.png

 

tumblr_pkj6ujfgYs1rben3uo1_640.png

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How did you get the PCB? I have the 12-1 and got the control panel protector from them.. are they going to also automatically send one my way? Or do I need to request it? Just curious..

 

All I see is some kind of "join group" page... but when I click join group it requires a Facebook account. Do you have a screenshot maybe?

 

negative1 had posted about the problem with the Liberator bug so I opened a new ticket with 1Up to replace the PCB when/if they had a fix for it. 1Up doesn't send anything out automatically, which is a shame. Apparently the Galaga replacement PCB has been available for a while, and If I hadn't seen it here, I wouldn't have known. That to me sucks - 1Up should be the ones making this information available - on their website - and letting people with the affected cabinets sign up to receive these "fixed" PCB's automatically.

 

 

It's part of the official fan group on Facebook. Basically, he's gauging interest (to know numbers to produce) for a drop-in replacement (real) spinner for the 12-in-1 or Asteroids cabinets. The estimated price is around $50. That, combined with the keyboard hack to adjust trackball sensitivity should be enough to bring these in line with what they should have been in the first place, although a drop-in replacement for the trackball is apparently in the planning as well.

 

Thanks for that Bill, I forgot that Facebook group was a private group you had to sign up for (although anybody should be able to sign up).

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