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Budget Atari and Capcom arcade cabinets to see release this fall!


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4 minutes ago, simbalion said:

Well, if by some chance they aren't available, I guess I won't have one and 1Up won't be getting any money from me in any case. I'll just put it back for something else in the future or for something that I actually need. I don't like doing pre-orders and like I said before, I wanted to see how these actually reviewed before plunking my hard earned money done, seeing the issues the initial batch of games had last year. I've done the whole 'Hurry! Hurry!' thing over the years and it just gets old.

 

P.S. I am fine doing pre-orders on things such as books and DVDs, but not on something like this!

None of the main Arcade1Up cabinets have ended up being hard to get. Some have been exclusive to retailers, but the only one that has been 'limited edition' is the limited edition version of the Marvel cab. There have been times when a cabinet is new that stores run out, but they've always gotten more. There are a few models that are probably harder to find at this point (I think the Asteroids Deluxe from Costco is probably the 'rarest') but there's nothing that was ever hard to come by. So I wouldn't expect these to be rare. I would expect there to be plenty of Star Wars, TMNT and Marvel cabs available for the holidays.

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And since I own the Street Fighter I will chim in. Besides not being able to change the dilfficulting setting because it is set too hogh and hard to beat the game. And sound volume issue. I have tinnitus and it is too loud. I have not changed a thing. Not even the controles. And have nat has no issues what so ever from my wave one. And walmart had put it together at christmas that year. And sold it and others. So I did not put it together either. And still not one issue. 8)

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2 minutes ago, JBerel said:

Anybody hear where they were getting their yoke controllers made? I also never heard anything more about the supposed promotions using the Allen One versions.

No I have not. But the reviews said the one on the arcades is plastic. 1 person said it does not feel right. 

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21 hours ago, JBerel said:

Anybody hear where they were getting their yoke controllers made? I also never heard anything more about the supposed promotions using the Allen One versions.

they are modified versions of the alan-1 using plastic.

 

Glenn has a GRS yoke which will be metal, that will work with it.

 

later

-1

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1 hour ago, JBerel said:

Alan-1 said they were doing another run for some promotional units that Arcade1Up would use with their metal yokes. Alan-1 said nothing about making cheaper plastic ones for them. 

They might not have made them, arcade 1up got the plans from them, and got someone else to make them most likely.

 

later

-1

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The Star Wars Arcade1up contains a grey flash that last a second when you get hit.  This was not present in the original game.

 

You can see it here

 

 

 

Most likely Arcade1up added this as a way for players to know they've been hit easier and lost a shield.  But that's strange to add something like that when your going for arcade authentic.

 

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5 hours ago, deckardbr said:

The Star Wars Arcade1up contains a grey flash that last a second when you get hit.  This was not present in the original game.

 

You can see it here

 

 

 

Most likely Arcade1up added this as a way for players to know they've been hit easier and lost a shield.  But that's strange to add something like that when your going for arcade authentic.

 

 

????

 

The arcade game does flash when you get hit.  It's a thing that MAME has never emulated correctly.  (It also doesn't do the vector defocus correctly, nor does it implement ROTJ's reverb circuitry.)

 

Here's a video from a genuine sitdown cabinet.  It isn't quite as dominant in this one, but it seems variable from machine to machine how intense it was:

 

 

Edit to add: it may also be that the camera just didn't pick it up as strongly, but nonetheless it is there in the original arcade machine, and you can see it somewhat in the video.

Edited by JeffVav
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1 hour ago, JeffVav said:

The arcade game does flash when you get hit.  It's a thing that MAME has never emulated correctly.

Past Star Wars (upright) owner here.  I'll confirm that this is the correct behaviour for the arcade hardware.

 

The lack of screen flash in MAME has been a known issue for a long time.  Agreed that whatever the Arcade1UP is doing to generate it is overkill, however.  Having said that, it looks as though they may have their emulator's display gamma (or equivalent) turned way up, so that may go some way towards explaining what's happening there.

Edited by x=usr(1536)
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1 hour ago, thanatos said:

I would still like to know where the hell my Gamestop pre-order is.  Dunno why someone laughed at my last comment!  2 days ago I could have picked one up in-store locally according to their website.

If you're referring to my use of the like buttons on your previous comment, the laugh was because I've been in the same position in the past.  Consider it sympathetic.

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When playing the original, I always wondered what they did upon getting hit. It was like the brightness of the tube got a bump. I wouldn't be surprised if a hit triggered a voltage regulator or transistor that resulted in the screen effect rather than any kind of vector coordinate info. It's a vector screen, so it's not like the beam can make the screen flash. That would explain why MAME could never replicate it fully.

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Thanks for the correction that the flashes are authentic.  Haven't played the coin op in many years and every emulated version (even the one included on Rogue Squadron 3 for the gamecube) doesn't have it.

 

I just wish the $499 pricepoint was abit lower but you do get the riser with it.  It's a great looking machine.

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On 10/14/2019 at 7:16 AM, MaximRecoil said:

That's a huge improvement. If one of those fell into my lap for free I'd do the same thing, but I wouldn't stop there. The side panels are already 1/2" thick, which is marginal, but adequate for a cabaret-size cabinet, but from what I've read, other panels (like the kick panel) are thin, like 1/8" fiberboard or something. I'd replace those with 1/2" MDF panels, plus I'd add blocking inside the cabinet (strips of 1x1s) and screw & wood glue all the panels together. Doing those things would greatly increase its rigidity and probably double its weight, which would give it more stability. I'd also replace the controls with real arcade controls and put a de-cased 17" CRT PC monitor in there, which would add even more weight (and have WAY better picture quality, including perfectly black blacks, zero color shift regardless of the viewing angle, no display lag, no potential for dead or stuck pixels, and a thick glass screen that isn't easily scratched/damaged). I'm guessing it would be up to at least 150 pounds at that point, which is more in the neighborhood of what real arcade cabaret machines weigh.

 

A standard-resolution (~15 KHz) CRT arcade monitor instead of a high-resolution PC monitor would be ideal, but the Arcade1Up's hardware wouldn't be able to sync to it, plus a 19" one would probably be too big for that cabinet. Also, old 17" CRT PC monitors are free or cheap and easy to find, whereas arcade monitors typically aren't any of those things. If I were building a cabinet from scratch, or restoring/refurbishing an original arcade machine, it would get a real CRT arcade monitor, no question about it, but for cheap upgrades to something like an Arcade1Up cabinet, a CRT PC monitor is good enough, and a drastic improvement over any LCD in existence.

The thing I had to think about is how far  I want to go with this thing. At some point, it ceases to be an A1up and becomes an entirely new cabinet and I spent several hundred dollars for nothing. I wanted to get this as close to a cabaret as possible, without adding major costs. 

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12 hours ago, 4300 said:

The thing I had to think about is how far  I want to go with this thing. At some point, it ceases to be an A1up and becomes an entirely new cabinet and I spent several hundred dollars for nothing. I wanted to get this as close to a cabaret as possible, without adding major costs. 

Yeah, that's why I'd only do those things if I got one for free. The total cost of all the stuff I mentioned would probably be around $100, which includes $60 for a new Happ 2¼" trackball (the cost of real arcade controls would be far less on say, a Pac-Man; just 1 joystick and 2 buttons which would be about $15). I already have several spare 17" CRT PC monitors lying around, but those are easy to find for free last I knew.

Edited by MaximRecoil
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Here's the final version of mine:

 

 

IMG_5854.JPG

IMG_5855.JPG

IMG_5857.JPG

 

Complete list of Mods:

 

Galaga -

 

1. Modded with Raspberry PI 3b, has 100 classic pre-1985 arcade games, mostly vertical, some horizontal scaled to fit

2. added Sanwa 8 way stick w/ 0-lag USB encoder

3. added EG starts lighted LED buttons and added a second fire/jump button

4. Added led backlit PS/2 USB trackball (generic Chinese - works fine, better than the A1up version)

5. added plexi deck protector.

6. Added Arcade Game Factory lighted Marquee.

7. added Logitech Powered PC speakers inside cabinet for sound.

 

Pac-Man -

 

1. Added Modded Arcade1up system board that has USB port added and includes Pac-Man/PMPlus, Galaga/Galaxian & Space Invaders/Color

2. replaced original buttons with spare Blue and Yellow EG starts Lighted LED buttons (from set I bought for Galaga) - LED powered by USB mod on original A1up board

3. Added Arcade Game Factory Lighted Marquee.

4. Kept original Pac-Man A1up 4-way stick stock - it's been fine, but if it decides to act up I'll replace it with a Sanwa w/ 4 way restrictor in place.

 

Notes:

 

The lighted marquees look FANTASTIC, but they took FOREVER to get here. Over a month for the original delivery, and then he screwed up the original order so I had to wait another whole month for the Pac-Man one, because he sent one with Asteroids/Centipede vinyl graphics.

 

The added controllers on the Galaga cab are great. Super responsive. Took a while to tweak all the MAME and FBNeo settings to my liking, but now it's perfect.

 

The modded Arcade1up original board from reddit user uberryberrysneaky is so cool. I just wish it had a pixel softener/scanline filter.

 

Also - here's the custom RPi theme I used for the Galaga Cab:

 

 

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Well apparently Gamestop's ordering system just sucks, haven't ordered anything from them in probably a decade.

 

Star Wars showed up at my door today!  Order status is still "awaiting availability".  So, whatever, got a busy weekend ahead!  First task is just figuring out where I'm going to put it.  Basement is packed pretty full already.

 

Also somewhat surprised it was left without a signature.  But I'm glad, otherwise I would have had to arrange a pick up and probably be stuck without it until Monday.

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Star Wars has been assembled, and here's my one line review after having it finished it about an hour ago:

 

THIS THING F***ING RULES!!!!

 

Very impressed with the controller, it feels great and plays very well. No calibration necessary.  The vector graphics look amazing for this running on an LCD.

 

Putting it together without help had a dicey moment getting the 2nd side to line up, but if you just be careful it should work out OK.  Would have been much easier with a spotter.

 

Then the wife got home and laughed, "It's so tiny!"  She was talking about the game, BTW.  :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Mine is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. So stoked. Most other arcade games I'm happy to play on consoles or MAME, but this one really needs the original controls. I've teetered on the edge of getting a vintage machine again and again, but always chickened out because of the possibility of something breaking that I wouldn't be able to fix. 

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I have a question to anyone who have done it,

I have SFII Arcade1up cabinet and I was thinking to swap the PCB to Mortal Kombat one. Will the buttons map properly, or some major rewiring is needed?

In perfect scenario, the middle buttons will map to BLOCK and RUN.

 

What do you think?

 

Edited by amiman99
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