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C64 - Broken glass capacitor @ c43 - replacement?


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So I got a C64 a while back at goodwill for $2.99. It's an early board, version 326298.

 

It hasn't worked since I bought it. When you plug it in, just a black screen. If you put a cartridge in, there's a garbled screen.

Some people on a Commodore group thought it might be the PLA, so I bought a PLAnkton chip and installed it. No change.

 

I then decided to start removing RAM chips and putting sockets in them. Anyone know a good source for these chips? Anyway, while removing the chips I managed to destroy the glass (didn't know those existed) capacitor at location C43. The schematic shows it's value as .22. The label on the capacitor is labeled "224."

 

See attachments.

 

A couple of questions:

 

1. Anyone know a possible cause of the garbage screen?

2. I'm not too savvy with the different RAM chips, anyone know a source for these?

3. And now I need a source for the glass capacitor at C43. What kind of capacitor/value can I use as a replacement?

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I think any 4164 DRAM would work. I don't remember the minmum speed, but here is for instance a 150 ns one at Jameco: https://www.jameco.com/z/4164-150-Major-Brands-64KX1-DIP-16-DRAM-150NS_41662.html

 

Also I don't know if the glass capacitor has any particular properties over a 0.22 uF ceramic capacitor. Someone will want to chime in on this, but you should easily be able to find compatible types of non-polarized capacitors, though with an early board you probably want glass to match the broken one.

 

Strange that replacing the PLA didn't solve your issue. I suppose the VIC-II chip could emit problems too. If the character ROM was at fault, a game cartridge that uses custom graphics most of the way would bypass the ROM.

 

Something about memory decoding that is outside of what the PLA does?

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It wouldn't be the character rom if it's booting to junk like that. You should still be able to load programs and the machine should still function in this case.

 

Things it could be

 

* Bad ram, try replacing/swapping U12 first.

* Bad multiplexer at U14 ( common fault if it's a MOS chip ).

* Faulty U2 - CIA, swap them around ( they're identical ) to see if your symptoms change.

Edited by shoestring
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What happens when you try and boot basic ?

 

See if the below symptoms match yours.

 

U3 901226-01 BASIC ROM

Blank screen w/ border. Cartridge works.

 

U4 901227-03 (early -02) KERNAL ROM

Blank screen, no border. Cartridge works

 

ftp://www.zimmers.net/pub/cbm/documents/repair/troubleshooting-c64.txt.

I still just get a pure black screen without a cartridge inserted. I'll check the link.

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I wouldn't replace it with an original pull, those 3 mask roms ( kernal, char rom & basic rom ) are prone to failure.

 

You can replace those chips using a standard 27c64 EPROM if you have the tools or know someone who can do it.

 

I did something similar to replace the character rom.

 

Check this out

 

http://ezcontents.org/c64-basic-rom-27c64-eprom

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No idea how hot it should be, but it looks like a standard 7805 voltage regulator to me. If it is made by Fairchild Semiconductors, UC seems to refer to the TO220 packaging and their 7805's were specified to operating at 0 - 125 C, soldering at 230 C for max 10 seconds. I would think any 7805 in the same package would work.

 

Nowadays people are talking about more efficient switching voltage regulators, but I don't know if those are feasible here or perhaps more expensive for the task.

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No idea how hot it should be, but it looks like a standard 7805 voltage regulator to me. If it is made by Fairchild Semiconductors, UC seems to refer to the TO220 packaging and their 7805's were specified to operating at 0 - 125 C, soldering at 230 C for max 10 seconds. I would think any 7805 in the same package would work.

 

Nowadays people are talking about more efficient switching voltage regulators, but I don't know if those are feasible here or perhaps more expensive for the task.

Thanks, I'm not so good at breaking down the codes on these packages. I ordered some 7805's to replace with. I don't think it should have been this hot. You can see it was even browning the board.

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It's quite normal for these to get hot to the touch, especially without a heatsink.

 

This should also work

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Power-Solutions/OKI-78SR-5-15-W36-C/?qs=uJpRT2lXVNXJP%252bo08dQqJQ==

 

Data sheet here

 

https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/281/oki-78sr-56393.pdf

 

"are a direct plug-in replacement for TO-220 package 78xx series linear regulators."

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