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6 minutes ago, Thomas Jentzsch said:

I have no clue about soldering etc., but some joints sure look terrible to me. I hope you get this repaired or replaced soon. Does the AtariVox react?

 

While using Stella, please make sure that you have the documentation at hand. Just in case you have to change some settings.

 

 

 

No reaction from the AtariVox. I believe the first thing I'll have to do is trace the power once I get a multimeter to make sure everything is getting power. The screen doesn't even flicker using RF out when I turn on the power switch.

 

I'll keep the Stella documentation close by tonight.

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James, check the cable between the boards. I was repairing my light sixer when I first got it and found the wire on a couple of them just came away from the main board - wasn't easy to spot initially. I was so careful moving it around and unplugging etc still happened.

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Agreeing with Thomas about the sketchy soldering. You (or someone) should go through and reflow those.

 

The cap kit comes with a replacement power jack - so be sure to install that. Those do fail over time.

 

When my 2600 died (the first time), it was the hex buffer. If you swap that out, I'd suggest socketing it for easier future replacement.

 

I'd offer to help with your console, but you'd likely do better finding someone local rather than pay to ship it to California and have to wait for it.

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Sorry to hear this news!

 

The green capacitor seen in pic 1 & 3 that looks like chicklet gum (on the original, not on the small new board) goes bad first. Replacements from consol5 may be a plastic rectangle part. That part going bad usually results in “snow” like the old, untuned over-the-air TV channels.

 

The good/bad points about the RGB mod are: 

Best output, least invasive to the original circuits (as in parts aren’t removed). 

Very complex. Needs lots of solder points and the TIA transplanted into the mod. 

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My meaning did not get through on chat. I was saying that maybe the increased power from the new power supply to the RGB mod components killed it?

 

Power in gets converted to 5 volts at the regulator, the 7805. In the RGB mod, the 7805 gets replaced with this board:

FDC4FAB7-F9E8-450D-849D-35670D1AA6A2.thumb.jpeg.63841255e0e0b438cf0e3f294e84a959.jpeg

 

If that part goes bad, the 2600 will not work. 

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Have you considered asking for donations for a replacement? Even if you are able to fix the other one, you would then at least have a spare to use if something happened to the main one you use for the show.

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Perhaps consider a 7800, in case you wish to enter the wonderful world of 7800 homebrew some day? :) It would serve as a spare for 2600 reviews too.

 

Anyway, agreed that you need to start with checking out power on your 2600, once you get your hands on a multimeter. Check the 7805 5v power regulator first (edit: just read iesposta's post. This advice would apply to the 7805 replacement board, in your caase) and then move on to the other chips. Before you get your hands on a multimeter, you might also visually check out the power jack and the power switch connections.

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@ZeroPage Homebrew Just wanted to let you know that you inspired me to try for the Kaboom patch.  Unfortunately, I did not achieve 3K.  I have to say that this is one of the few games that makes me anxious (maybe that's not the best word), the more rounds I play it. 

 

Here's my best score for today.  My all-time high sore is only slightly better, 2,125.  This is a tough patch to earn.  Hats off to any member of the Bucket Brigade.:thumbsup: 

 

Kaboom HS_2080.jpg

 

 

Sears H6er Paddles.jpg

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On 9/15/2019 at 1:16 PM, sramirez2008 said:

@ZeroPage Homebrew Just wanted to let you know that you inspired me to try for the Kaboom patch.  Unfortunately, I did not achieve 3K.  I have to say that this is one of the few games that makes me anxious (maybe that's not the best word), the more rounds I play it. 

 

Here's my best score for today.  My all-time high sore is only slightly better, 2,125.  This is a tough patch to earn.  Hats off to any member of the Bucket Brigade.:thumbsup:

Great score, it's a damn tough game! I think it'll just take a lot of practice to get to 3K but I think I'll be able to do it!

 

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UPDATE: I've ordered a Cap Kit from Console 5 and my new multimeter will arrive today. I don't know if I'll have time yet to check it out before I leave for Portland/LA for the screening of my film in two festivals but I'll be working it as soon as I get back. I'll keep giving updates as I troubleshoot if I run into any snags I might need help with! 🙂 Thank you so much everyone.

 

 

On 9/13/2019 at 2:27 PM, mksmith said:

James, check the cable between the boards. I was repairing my light sixer when I first got it and found the wire on a couple of them just came away from the main board - wasn't easy to spot initially. I was so careful moving it around and unplugging etc still happened.

That is an excellent suggestion as that was really the only part that I had to unplug and replug back in. There also may have been pulling on it as I opened things up so there could be a detached wire due to that.

 

On 9/13/2019 at 5:28 PM, Nathan Strum said:

Agreeing with Thomas about the sketchy soldering. You (or someone) should go through and reflow those.

The cap kit comes with a replacement power jack - so be sure to install that. Those do fail over time.

When my 2600 died (the first time), it was the hex buffer. If you swap that out, I'd suggest socketing it for easier future replacement.

I'd offer to help with your console, but you'd likely do better finding someone local rather than pay to ship it to California and have to wait for it.

Some of the soldering is a little messy and it's not a bad idea to redo some of the worst offenders on the board. I'll definitely be replacing the power jack as I'm sure a lot of the issues have to do with power. I'll look into the hex buffer as things go along, thanks for the suggestion! You're right, it would cost way too much to ship it to California but thank you so much for the offer of help! (maybe as a last resort?)

 

On 9/14/2019 at 4:57 AM, chad5200 said:

Here is a link to good info on all the parts to replace/check when repairing a 2600:

 

https://forums.atari.io/topic/2967-wavy-lines-jail-bars-rolling-horizontal-bar-through-the-screen-snowy-picture-on-2600s/

That is an excellent page with a lot of great info on replacement parts for the 2600! Thank you for that resource!

 

On 9/14/2019 at 8:24 AM, Karl G said:

Have you considered asking for donations for a replacement? Even if you are able to fix the other one, you would then at least have a spare to use if something happened to the main one you use for the show.

No need for donations, I'd rather raise money for things like Stella! 🙂 I do plan on converting a spare VCS I have to at least s-video for use as a spare in case this happens in the future.

 

On 9/14/2019 at 9:14 AM, RevEng said:

Perhaps consider a 7800, in case you wish to enter the wonderful world of 7800 homebrew some day? :) It would serve as a spare for 2600 reviews too.

 

Anyway, agreed that you need to start with checking out power on your 2600, once you get your hands on a multimeter. Check the 7805 5v power regulator first (edit: just read iesposta's post. This advice would apply to the 7805 replacement board, in your caase) and then move on to the other chips. Before you get your hands on a multimeter, you might also visually check out the power jack and the power switch connections.

I do have a few 7800's and maybe I'll dip my toes into that world of homebrew. I think a SD based multicart would have to happen first for that to work for the show.

 

Thanks for the suggestions! The 7805 comes with the kit I ordered from Console5 so that will definitely be happening. I did a visual check on everything but nothing popped out to me with my layman's eyes. I'll be able to poke around a lot more when the multimeter arrives today! 🙂

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Check for bad joints everywhere. I just bought a light sixer recently that I RGB modded and there were many. Power jack, joystick jacks, but also the socket and cable between the two boards. Reflow the lot, certainly anything that's moved (switches and the like). Then you're into fault-finding mode after that. As ever, voltages first. Make sure it's right at the reg, then work forward. Shame I'm at the other side of the pond, I'd happily take a look at it for you had you been local :(

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On 9/29/2019 at 9:58 PM, mksmith said:

@ZeroPage Homebrew James was just watching the last zeropage stream and the 2600RGB you have has a US distributor page here: http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=207 if you need to purchase another.

 

 

Thanks so much @mksmith! That will save time and money if I need to order a new one. 🙂

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