NewKillerAmerica Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Hey all, started a new topic bc this seems a little different. I got a 1050 drive in the mail from a friend recently, but no power supply, and its roughed up a bit. I wonder if there is any hope for it. Does anyone here sorta specialize in these drives that I could sponge some info from? Many thanks in advance for any input. Im still new here. Id love to get this drive sorted and make it a part of a growing collection. NKA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 I see mostly a broken power switch. Best Electronics has a new one, and most likely anything else you need. Use the evil Goo to search Atari Best Electronics and you will find them. The Web page is a mess, that'sounds a known fact. Brad Koda (the owner) is a great guy. I have met him personally. One thing to remember is that Brad is a busy man and he can get annoyed by repeated stupid questions and such. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SINGLE TOOTH Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Looks like it suffered some shipping damage. I had one that was in worse shape. Take it apart and see how bad it is. I bet the board is loose and some of the mounting posts are busted. I had one in worse condition that I fixed using M.E.K. and melted it back together. Before After 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Nice work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SINGLE TOOTH Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 I see mostly a broken power switch. Best Electronics has a new one, and most likely anything else you need. Use the evil Goo to search Atari Best Electronics and you will find them. The Web page is a mess, that'sounds a known fact. Brad Koda (the owner) is a great guy. I have met him personally. One thing to remember is that Brad is a busy man and he can get annoyed by repeated stupid questions and such. It's possible the switch is broken but it looks to me like the entire PCB got moved out of place and it's not lining up anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SINGLE TOOTH Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 The next drive I bought was smashed up too, but a seller that didn't know how to pack. Luckily i was able to fix them both and they still worked. Before After 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewKillerAmerica Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 Wow thank you both for the replies and nice work ST! I’ve got in in the Jansport ready to take it down to the shop tomorrow and I’ll keep updating. One thing I’m mostly curious about is getting power to this unit. I’ve read a bit about it but any suggestions? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) The power switch just looks lifted from the pcb, so the switch itself may be ok with some re-soldering... Maybe a few jumper wires if the traces were damaged. The shifting of the main PCB you note may because of the 2 little plastic clips on the front of the bottom cover might have broken away. Something can probably be glued or screwed in place to stabilize the board. Maybe post a picture of the inside of the bottom case, any anything else inside that looks out of place. Edited April 4, 2018 by Nezgar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Yeah, I got an 800 like that. A little Krazy glue helped, but it's not perfect. It doesn't look too bad, though. I run my BBS on it. It has a 65c802 CPU and an Incognito. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SINGLE TOOTH Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Wow thank you both for the replies and nice work ST! I’ve got in in the Jansport ready to take it down to the shop tomorrow and I’ll keep updating. One thing I’m mostly curious about is getting power to this unit. I’ve read a bit about it but any suggestions? Probably hard to find a power supply with the requirements these drives need just laying around anymore these days. Might have to order one. 9V AC 31VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+kheller2 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 As in 9vAC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) Finding replacement power supplies for the 1050 and 810 that are rated with enough amperage is surprisingly tough. 1000ma is common, but the drive definitely needs at least 2000ma. I found a local distributor here in Saskatchewan Canada that carries these 9vac 3300ma supplies that work great with the drives once I've replaced the 2.1mm barrel connector with a 2.5mm. http://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/rp093aa3.htm I'm guessing they don't ship to US, but I've considered buying a number of them to modify and resell as tested working for 810's and 1050's....... Check with any local to you electronics shops and see if they may have something similar. Edit: yes they do ship to US haha.. $15 cad ground though, not very economical. Edited April 4, 2018 by Nezgar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Yes, a simple transformer from 120 (or 230/240, depending on location) volts AC to 9 volts AC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewKillerAmerica Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 Thanks so much you guys, and yes I’ll post up once I get to the bench tomorrow and open this beauty up. Cheers all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 Best, and I think B&C have the official proper power supply in stock. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrbrevin Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 I can recommend using a 9v AC SNES / NES power supply for the 1050 drive although some people have reported issues Also, a guy on UK ebay sells new power switches for cheap but you have to bend the 3x pins from vertical to horizontal formation (they are designed for the computers but are bend-able for drive use) If you can, post some pics of it's innards so we can get to the nitty-gritty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 I can recommend using a 9v AC SNES / NES power supply for the 1050 drive although some people have reported issues The north america SNES power supply is 10VAC but only 850mA - not nearly enough for a 1050 to drive the motor. Some brief google image searches i saw a UK supply rated at 2A, is that what you have? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewKillerAmerica Posted April 5, 2018 Author Share Posted April 5, 2018 Well, I think I have good news to report! Upon opening the drive, I really dont see much wrong with it. The power switch had been popped off the board at the two front solder points, took care of that. Lifting up the drive from the metal pin and rubber washer cradle, all seems to be intact and not nasty. I was kinda surprised that the belt was still in perfect shape. Had a replacement for it standing by but Ill just throw it in the drawer for now I guess. Now just gonna blow this sucker out and clean the head and lube the rails, and work on hunting down a PSU! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewKillerAmerica Posted April 5, 2018 Author Share Posted April 5, 2018 Best, and I think B&C have the official proper power supply in stock. Kyle, can you point me in that direction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xrbrevin Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 The north america SNES power supply is 10VAC but only 850mA - not nearly enough for a 1050 to drive the motor. Some brief google image searches i saw a UK supply rated at 2A, is that what you have? Hi, My SNES PSU is rated at 1.3A but it still seems to power the 1050 ok Thanks for highlighting the issue, I never knew until now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 Kyle, can you point me in that direction? http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/power%20guide.htm Third one down on the left side of the page. From B&C's page: " PRA001 POWER 800/810/1050/XF551/1200XL 20.00 400/850/1010 and others" http://www.myatari.com/atarixlh.txt B&C: (530) 295-9270 Best: (408) 278-1070 · (1:30 - 5 PM, PST, M - F) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SINGLE TOOTH Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 How did you fix the power switch? Resolder it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
+Nezgar Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 @NewKillerAmerica - nice pictures of the opened drive, and repaired switch. Your tandon mech and mainboard look immaculate and clean. Of acedemic interest you can look inside that metal shield on the mainboard and see if you have a mask ROM or eprom firmware. If it's an eprom (with jumpers 2/4 instead of 1/3) it's a solderless upgrade to us doubler. S little 3-in-1 oil on the head rails is preferable to grease, and if the rotation of the top spindle seems stiff, a little 3-in-1 on that too to free up the bearings inside. To lube the top spinner, I losen up some of the other screws around the top area to allow it to be lifted out, then use needle nose pliers to carefully remove the top small metal clamp piece. Then the top and spring come off allowing easy access to the top of the spinner. 5 drops or so into the movement seam. Careful to wipe any excess as you don't want it on the plastic pieces that touch the disks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewKillerAmerica Posted April 7, 2018 Author Share Posted April 7, 2018 http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/power%20guide.htm Third one down on the left side of the page. From B&C's page: " PRA001 POWER 800/810/1050/XF551/1200XL 20.00 400/850/1010 and others" http://www.myatari.com/atarixlh.txt B&C: (530) 295-9270 Best: (408) 278-1070 · (1:30 - 5 PM, PST, M - F) Thanks man! Ill be calling them Monday morning! How did you fix the power switch? Resolder it? Yep, just held it together lightly with vice grips and reflowed the solder. Added some too. @NewKillerAmerica - nice pictures of the opened drive, and repaired switch. Your tandon mech and mainboard look immaculate and clean. Of acedemic interest you can look inside that metal shield on the mainboard and see if you have a mask ROM or eprom firmware. If it's an eprom (with jumpers 2/4 instead of 1/3) it's a solderless upgrade to us doubler. S little 3-in-1 oil on the head rails is preferable to grease, and if the rotation of the top spindle seems stiff, a little 3-in-1 on that too to free up the bearings inside. To lube the top spinner, I losen up some of the other screws around the top area to allow it to be lifted out, then use needle nose pliers to carefully remove the top small metal clamp piece. Then the top and spring come off allowing easy access to the top of the spinner. 5 drops or so into the movement seam. Careful to wipe any excess as you don't want it on the plastic pieces that touch the disks. Very cool, Ill grab some 3-in-1. Ill have a look for the mask rom / eprom. Thanks all! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle22 Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 Remember that it is also solder-less if you have a Mask ROM and replace it with a 2532 USD chip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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