Atari 1050 in kinda rough shape

[NewKillerAmerica]

Ok, got the shield off, and forgive my ignorance, but which chip should be replaced?

[+Nezgar]

See attached pic for reference.

• U10 is the OS ROM. (4 Kilobytes)
• U9 is the 6507 CPU. (1 Mhz)
• U8 is the 6810 static RAM (128 bytes)

Your picture shows your drive is jumpered JP1 and JP3, which configures the U10 socket for a Mask ROM or 2532 eprom (less common eprom type). If you move those 2 jumpers (soldering required) to be JP2 and JP4, you can use a (more-common) 2732 EPROM, programmed with either a stock 1050 OS (no benefit to you), or US Doubler code.

 

You don't NEED to do replace anything with it if you are fine with it as a stock drive, but with normal slow speed, and only Single Density, and 'Enhanced' Density, no Double Density support.

 

Most common upgrade options:

• US Doubler: Replaces U10 ROM chip - most common these days is a homebrew programmed EPROM, and U8 replaced with 2 6810 RAM chip's stacked for 256byte double density sector buffer
• Happy 1050 or Speedy 1050: Remove U10 ROM, and U9 CPU, and insert daughterboad into U9 socket.

Edited April 9, 2018 by Nezgar

[xrbrevin]

Looks reasonably clean in there

 

Happy and Mini-Speedy do not require any soldering - they come with extra features besides the double density but can have compatibility issues with original disks. Im told the US Doubler has no compatibility issues. It requires a little soldering but it is also the least costly to do.

For a USD upgrade you will have to replace the ROM with a custom 2732 EPROM, remove JP1 and JP3 and solder them into JP2 and JP4 and add a second 6810 chip on top of the existing one - with a couple of tweaks (there are numerous guides on here showing which pins)

My USD is shown below

 

[NewKillerAmerica]

Very cool! Ok Ill kick this around a bit. Nezgar, did get some 3 in 1 today to lube the rails. Thanks everyone for the convo so far.

[NewKillerAmerica]

Well after much debate with the squad around here, I decided to keep the drive stock for now. Blew it out, cleaned and lubricated the rails and cleaned the head. I fixed the little cracked areas by popping them back in place, and got the switch in the right orientation for the faceplate. Then, after a little scrubbing and shining, got it reassembled and back where it belongs. I included the 3M product pic b/c I find it really useful and non-abrasive on these aging plastics, using a soft Scotch-Brite pad. Overall Im satisfied with the result and have a PSU on its way. Thank you guys so much for your comments on this topic! Once the PSU arrives Ill update.

 

(Loaded the disk image you see using RespeQt) ?

Edited April 10, 2018 by NewKillerAmerica

[xrbrevin]

nicely done - looks quite mint too

[Mclaneinc]

Just a little note re the Speedy and Happy, Xbrevin said there are compatibility issues with them with original disks, with the Happy in its default operational it will have some problems with protected games because the drive is faster in its normal state so breaks some protection, however you can make the drive 'Un-Happy' with software so it returns to behaving like a standard 1050 and when you want the happy back you just turn it off and then on again.

 

Can't say for the Speedy but I imagine there's a similar situation.

 

Just wanted to clarify that a Happy upgrade is well worth it and once sett to un happy mode its perfectly ok with protected software..

 

Paul..

Edited April 17, 2018 by Mclaneinc

[+Nezgar]

you can make the drive 'Un-Happy' with software so it returns to behaving like a standard 1050 and when you want the happy back you just turn it off and then on again.

Yep, this is as simple as just tapping '1 - 1' when booting the Happy disk. Disables the Happy's track buffer. Very close in operation to a stock 1050.

 

However, you have some additional options creative people have come up with using additional RAM in the happy.

• the HAPPY.COM utility included in Steven Carden's RealDOS ( http://realdos.net/realdos.html) will upload a relocated US Doubler OS to the drive, and it will function as a native US Doubler until power-off. You can also set the drive to anything 1-8 prior to the code upload. This is how you can use a happy to format disks with an Ultraspeed skew for ultraspeed on US Doubler which has no track buffer
• https://archive.org/details/a8b_Happy_Utility_Menu_v1.0_1987_Pirate_Software- This disk has options to upload either a Chip/Archiver OS to the Happy 1050, or a Stock 1050 OS.

So concurring with Paul, these additional tools make the happy a pretty darned flexible (at least 4-in-1) upgrade!

 

Can't say for the Speedy but I imagine there's a similar situation.

Playing with my Mini-Speedy I've found there was some very good design around this concern. If you put in a disk, and the drive detects non a standard track layout (ie more/less than 18 sectors) it will automatically disable the track buffer as well as reduce the stepper speed back to that of a stock 1050.

 

On the Speedy utility disk, there is a function to programmatically disable the track buffer, but they took it one step further by also including a simple menu option to upload stock 1050 OS code to the drives RAM, and it will then function as a Stock drive until it is power cycled.

 

The Speedy ROM OS was updated by hias for NTSC compatibility since only early 2017, so it's a whole new upgrade for us north american users to discover!

Edited April 17, 2018 by Nezgar

[+tf_hh]

Can't say for the Speedy but I imagine there's a similar situation.

 

Just wanted to clarify that a Happy upgrade is well worth it and once sett to un happy mode its perfectly ok with protected software..

 

Speedy supports the same features like the Happy 1050:

 

- Disable the trackbuffer (as you mentioned)

- Loading the genuine 1050 firmware into Speedy RAM

 

Disabling the track buffer is only enough for very old protected disks. The newer (meaning from sight of the 80s) copy protection schemes based on FDC errors, 1050 firmware flaws and some things more, so just a disabled track buffer won´t help

 

Using the Speedy Ulitity disk you can load the genuine 1050 firmware into the Speedy´s RAM and it will be executed - no difference to a stock 1050 anymore until next power-cycle. The same thing can be done with a Happy 1050 (or clone) using the "CSS Unhappy Maker 1050".

 

Jurgen

[+Nezgar]

The same thing can be done with a Happy 1050 (or clone) using the "CSS Unhappy Maker 1050".

Is the "CSS Unhappy Maker 1050" downloadable anywhere? I have not seen this yet myself.

[+tf_hh]

Is the "CSS Unhappy Maker 1050" downloadable anywhere? I have not seen this yet myself.

 

Here it is. It´s a executable binary (.COM or .XEX). It just programs drive #1.

UNHAPPY.XEX

[Fox-1 / mnx]

Looks like someone added a lot of unnecessary 'crap' around that tool. Can't even remember the last time I started up MAC/65 but used this as an excuse to make my own version. No magic here. Just plain LDA/STA code.

 

File size decreased from $6279 to $4208 bytes ($4599 unpacked)

Single segment file

Loads at $3E16

Exit to DOS or Reboot after the upload

 

It also results in what is probably the most exciting screenshot ever:

 

 

Attaching a 7-Zip file doesn't seem to work so it's here:

http://atari.fox-1.nl/atari-400-800-xl-xe/400-800-xl-xe-tools/unhappy/

 

 

edit: typo

Edited April 18, 2018 by Fox-1 / mnx

[NewKillerAmerica]

Looks like someone added a lot of unnecessary 'crap' around that tool. Can't even remember the last time I started up MAC/65 but used this as an excuse to make my own version. No magic here. Just plain LDA/STA code.

 

File size decreased from $6279 to $4208 bytes ($4599 unpacked)

Single segment file

Loads at $3E16

Exit to DOS or Reboot after the upload

 

It also results in what is probably the most exciting screenshot ever:

 

 

Attaching a 7-Zip file doesn't seem to work so it's here:

http://atari.fox-1.nl/atari-400-800-xl-xe/400-800-xl-xe-tools/unhappy/

 

 

edit: typo

Nice site there.

[Stephen J Carden]

On 4/17/2018 at 2:20 PM, Nezgar said:

 

Hi All!

     There is a very cool and easy to do Hardware upgrade. You can do this to all of your 1050 Disk Drives. This provides the same function as turning the drive off and back on.

My 1050 disk drive upgrade.

 

This 1050 Disk Drive Reset Upgrade works with:

Stock 1050 Drive

Happy 1050 Drive

Duplicator 1050 Drive

Super Archiver 1050 Drive

ICD US Doubler 1050 Drive

Mega Speedy 1050 Drive

Speedy 1050 Drive

 

I have this upgrade in all of the 1050 Disk Drives I own. If you have a 1050 Disk drive with a different 1050 Disk drive upgrade than I have listed here. This upgrade should still work for you. Please let me know. I have always been more please with an upgrade that has been tested with hardware. This upgrade should work on any 1050 Disk Drive regardless of hardware that has been added.

 

The 1050 Drive Reset Hardware Upgrade:

You need good soldering skills to do this drive Upgrade

You assume all responsibility for this 1050 drive upgrade

 

Hardware needed 

1.) One Normally open push button.

2.) Two 8 inch pieces of 22 gauge wire.

3.) Pen

4.) Note Pad

 

Tools needed

15 Watt Soldering Iron

4 or 6 inch #2 Phillip screw driver

 

Hardware Upgrade Task

Please read and understand upgrade before you install it.

- Turn off 1050 Disk Drive you want to upgrade

- Remove Power connection

- Turn Drive over and remove all 6 Phillips head screws.

- Remove The TOP half of 1050 case

- Carefully Remove Drive Mech.

     *** Please take note of all the Drive Mech Connectors and write them down in the place and orientation so you can put them back.***

 

- First solder both pieces of wire to each leg of the push button.

- Then mount the Push Button to a place on your 1050. (make sure it does not get into the movement of your drive mech)

- Find the 555 timer on your 1050 drive pcb board. It is the only 8 pin chip on the 1050 pcb

    *** Note: If you have an upgraded 1050 the 555 chip could be under you drive enhancement***

    *** Note: I have installed my drive reset to the underside of my 1050 drives***

- Now solder one wire from your Push Button Switch to Pin 2 of the 555 timer

- Now solder the other wire from your Push Button switch to Pin 8 of the 555 Timer.

- Please be certain that you have installed your wires to pin 2 and 8.

- Please be certain to check again, that you have installed your wires to pin 2 and 8.

      I do not know what would happen to your drive it you get this wrong, So to be certain you have it right.

- Return Drive Mech

- Reconnect Drive Mech Connectors from you notes.

- Go and test your drive before you reassemble

- Finnish putting your case back together

-wheee you are done.

 

Let me know how this works for you.

Enjoy!

Stephen J. Carden

[+Nezgar]

7 minutes ago, Stephen J Carden said:

There is a very cool and easy to do Hardware upgrade. You can do this to all of your 1050 Disk Drives. This provides the same function as turning the drive off and back on.

My 1050 disk drive upgrade.

Hey Steve. I added this mod to a drive of my own in 2017. Came in handy on a happy drive that was modified with a toggle to switch power between the ROM on the happy board, or the stock ROM on the PCB. This mod let me "get out" of uploaded stock, archive, and US Doubler modes and even switch between the two ROM's without a power cycle. I posted pictures over in this thread:

 

[Stephen J Carden]

2 minutes ago, Nezgar said:

Hey Steve. I added this mod to a drive of my own in 2017. Came in handy on a happy drive that was modified with a toggle to switch power between the ROM on the happy board, or the stock ROM on the PCB. This mod let me "get out" of uploaded stock, archive, and US Doubler modes and even switch between the two ROM's without a power cycle. I posted pictures over in this thread:

 

I have had them in my 1050's since 1985. I had it up on my bbs, web site. it just seemed like a good time to post it here. hay if you have the time could you post some pictures for everyone.

 

Thanks!

Steve