Does anybody else rock a CRT?

[Austin]

It depends on what you're plugging in. Obviously, something like the Genesis is going to be a world of difference between RF and RGB, and some games are designed to take advantage of composite's artifacting. Ditto with the Saturn.

Yep, pretty much this. The level of quality from connection to connection is going to vary based on the console you are testing. In the case of the SNES, the typical 2-chip models produce a notoriously soft image by nature, even when outputting via RGB. A difference between the various signals will be seen, but it won't be as drastic as doing the same experiment with something like the Saturn or Neo-Geo. On systems with strong output signals, even at the s-video level you should start seeing razor-sharp, well defined pixels clearly. Composite will be noticeably softer in these cases.

Edited August 15, 2018 by Austin

[CatPix]

Yep. I remember being shocked on how bad the SNES picture looks in composite, compared to RGB. Can't say about RF, French SNES doesn't have RF, thanks goodness.

On the other hand, the Camecube produce a razor-sharp composite picture that is hard to distinguish from RGB (on a smaller TV and from a distance, admitedly).

One I was surprised is the 3DO, with the S-video being really crystal clear, to the point I simply game up on the idea of RGB-modding it (especially given how complex and potentially destructive it can be).

[youxia]

 

In the case of the SNES, the typical 2-chip models produce a notoriously soft image by nature, even when outputting via RGB.

 

Yep. I remember being shocked on how bad the SNES picture looks in composite, compared to RGB.

 

So, which one is it guys?

 

My bottom line is: no matter which console or microcomputer, the difference between the source quality is not as great as the received wisdom has it. I'm not sure there's really need to be "shocked" by the "notorious" SNES output since the quality of gfx viewed on a CRT screen in some games is simply mouthwatering, no matter if viewed via composite or RGB.

 

And the whole obsession with "sharpness" in retro games is purely a modern thing. There's nothing wrong with a bit of softness, it varies from game to game of course but overall it was a part of the artist's toolbox back then - along with dithering and other methods, going past those few oft-mentioned tricks such as the waterfall - not something inherently bad.

 

I remember very well the feeling of superiority when comparing my Amiga's TV output with my mate's early 286 VGA. Its pixelitis and the lack of natural TV's AA was very jarring, something even he reluctantly admitted. That superiority of course ended when the SVGA and the likes of Wolfenstein et al appeared and won on another level, but I always turned my nose up at those silly pixels anyway. I guess others were of a similar opinion since anti-aliasing has become sort of popular

[CatPix]

Well personnally, growing up with every console I got, save for Pong, being RGB, Going back to composite, from that "computer sharp" to fuzzy look is shocking

What's more jarring is that RGB reduce flickering; I suppose, because composite have different resolution for luminance and chrominance, mean that the TV may not always put the colors exactly at the same place, resulting in a sort of added flicker. I dunno what is this, but clearly, to me, going from composite to RGB is like setting up a computer CRT from 60 to 85 hertz. Much less strain on the eye.

I really suppose it's tied to how composite works, because the effect is less niticeable on S-video (where luminance and chrominence are separated.)

[Zap!]

Here's a great modern show to watch on a widescreen, HD-CRT. Doesn't mess with the aspect ratio, yet still gives it a great 80's feel! I'm watching it here on Netflix, courtesy of my PS3.

[Asaki]

I'm watching it here on Netflix, courtesy of my PS3.

They actually released Stranger Things on DVD and BD. We got season 1 from Target on Black Friday B)

 

The packaging makes it look like a slightly oversized VHS.

[bradhig1]

 

I miss the console tv my family had. It had the 2 analog knobs and a separate power/volume knob in the middle. I *THINK* it was a 25" tv but back then I never paid attention to that stuff.

 

I was about to acquire it just before I got divorced so, unfortunately, I lost the space to take it in so they gave it away (and had to give up my collection that year too). I keep my eyes open on Craigslist in case one pops up.

I miss console TVS as well. We had a heathkit console TV for a while that dad built but it turned into a real problem child and kept breaking down.. Dad scrapped it in the late 1980s..

[Bratwurst]

I just finished up a SCART RGB modification on a 32" Toshiba: https://imgur.com/a/iHQ3JGx

 

The chassis had unused inputs that just needed to be unlocked and wired to connector with a switch to activate.

[Asaki]

I would love to RGB mod a TV (I have a few laying around), but I don't know if I could figure it out by myself...

[adamchevy]

I’ve recently decided to rock the other direction. I have a nice 36” Trinitron, and I like using the component and Svideo options on it. I was listening to a talk by Jay Miner yesterday at work where he mentions getting a line doubler for low resolutions. He spoke about how it makes them looks like paintings or works of art on CRTs. I found this website called Ambery.com that sells them. I found one that takes composite or Svideo and line doubles it up to progressive scan with support up to 1600x1200 via vga(rgb) output. I’m excited to test this with my Trinitron , and my dell 2007fp.

Edited August 19, 2018 by adamchevy

[Blazing Lazers]

I’ve recently decided to rock the other direction. I have a nice 36” Trinitron, and I like using the component and Svideo options on it. I was listening to a talk by Jay Miner yesterday at work where he mentions getting a line doubler for low resolutions. He spoke about how it makes them looks like paintings or works of art on CRTs. I found this website called Ambery.com that sells them. I found one that takes composite or Svideo and line doubles it up to progressive scan with support up to 1600x1200 via vga(rgb) output. I’m excited to test this with my Trinitron , and my dell 2007fp.

This one?

 

http://www.ambery.com/corcastovga1.html

 

...you've got me really tempted to try this on my 1600x1200 monitor, and my HD-CRTs. Please keep us posted on how it looks!

[DJ Clae]

I just finished up a SCART RGB modification on a 32" Toshiba: https://imgur.com/a/iHQ3JGx

 

The chassis had unused inputs that just needed to be unlocked and wired to connector with a switch to activate.

I've been using almost or possibly this exact TV since I bought it new. Now you've got me interested in doing this.

[Bratwurst]

I've been using almost or possibly this exact TV since I bought it new. Now you've got me interested in doing this.

 

Wouldn't be surprised if it uses the same chassis, the service manual for the Toshiba 32A33 is just a truncated parts list and refers you to the service manual for the 36A43 for the rest. Throw me a PM if you need any help getting yours figured out.

 

Coincidentally, I was skimming through your TMNT arcade supergun playthrough hosted on youtube the other night.

[DJ Clae]

Cool. That's funny. My brothers don't want to upload anymore arcade playthrough vids because they feel it distracts from the scripted content we now make. Now if only they would make some more videos... Plus most of our arcade boards now need to be recapped.

 

That would be awesome if you could point me in the right direction with this TV. I'm moving soon so I might look at it sometime when that's all finished. Do you think it's high difficulty for someone who hasn't attempted one of these CRT mods before? The screen is also really scratched up at this point from moving too many times, so I need to look at whether I can buff those out too.

[Bratwurst]

Since you aren't cutting into the OSD lines, which is how most RGB injection is done on tv sets that don't normally support it, it is a little more straightforward and you don't need to run as many wires. Be prepared for fine soldering. There are some SMD caps and resistor that will need to be removed which are very small, and the only good place to connect to the RGB inputs is either the legs of the jungle topside or underneath at the pins.

 

I personally like to ground-discharge the anode to disconnect it, making total removal of the chassis possible.

Scratches in the screen can be dealt with- there is almost always a coating/film on the glass that serves as some kind of anti-glare contrast enhancer, you can buff scratches out of that with novus plastic polish compound. Or you can peel the film off if you're careful enough, then you're just left with glass. I've never peeled the film off though.

[Zap!]

I’ve recently decided to rock the other direction. I have a nice 36” Trinitron, and I like using the component and Svideo options on it. I was listening to a talk by Jay Miner yesterday at work where he mentions getting a line doubler for low resolutions. He spoke about how it makes them looks like paintings or works of art on CRTs. I found this website called Ambery.com that sells them. I found one that takes composite or Svideo and line doubles it up to progressive scan with support up to 1600x1200 via vga(rgb) output. I’m excited to test this with my Trinitron , and my dell 2007fp.

 

Please send the link (or name) to the actual product, it sounds amazing!

[Rocket Man]

I have a 27" Sony Trinitron that I keep for the old systems. I have a 17" iMag for my PC, that I play an 88GT Q6600 on in 720P: I sit about 2 feet away and it looks as HD as 4k on a big screen.